./ 


■^ 


Certificate  JVo.  1365 


'  /  ^£:^^c^^^&=- 


/        x 


g^E  /O/^t^i^^^^ 


^^^f^LcASA^^ 


Sultan  to  Sultan. 


Adventures   among   the    Masai    and 
other   Tribes    ot    East   Africa. 


M.     FRENCH-SHELDON, 
"  Bebe  Bwana." 


BOSTON,    MASS.: 
A.RENA     PUBLISHING     COMI^A^NY 

Copley  Sciuare. 
1892. 

London:  SAXON  &  CO.,  23  Bouverie  St.,   Fleet  St.,  E.  C. 


Coi'VRuniTEii  1S92. 
By  M.  French-Sheldon. 

ALL    RIGHTS    RESERVED. 


^Rren^Pre^^^ 


(j/ic/'e  <r,<c.     M^/io   ./o,<    /'/i ,j   /a.y/:  .^/eeS 
'~tnd j,'/c9c.   f//<tt  t/,r/  f//u'c/'.>    are  -a'er. 


^yjoi^^try  a.^.^^    a(^1^  ^      y^ 


FOREWORD. 


From  the  public  I  crave  indulgence  for  all  shortcomuigs, 
with  the  assurance  that  under  the  crushing  weight  of  a  supreme 
sorrow  which  has  overtaken  me  whilst  "  Sultan  to  Sultan"  has 
been  in  press,  it  has  been  with  an  aching  heart  I  have  com- 
pleted the  work,  endeavoring  with  fortitude  to  do  my  best  to 
make  my  readers  better  acquainted  with  the  possibilities  ot  the 
natural  primitives  whom  I  am  proud  to  call  my  iriends  an 
be  called  friend  by,  and  to  demonstrate  that  if  a  woman  coul 
journey  a  thousand  and  more  miles  in  East  Africa,  amon 
some  hostile  tribes,  unattended  by  other  than  Zanzibaris  mer- 
cenaries, without  bloodshed,  the  extreme  measures  employed  by 
some  would-be  colonizers  is  unnecessary,  atrocious,  and  with- 
out the  pale  of  humanity.  To  the  indefatigable  efforts  of  m)- 
publishers,  especially  to  Mr.  11.  H.  lioyce,  who,  with  s)mpa- 
thy  and  consideration,  has  personally  spared  me  the  countless 
detail  of  the  work  ;  to  the  artists  who  have  entered  into  the 
spirit  of  the  illustrations,  and  actually  reproduced  the  photo- 
graphs and  the  curios,  waiving  artistic  desire  to  make  alter- 
ations ;  to  the  printers,  and  the  Victorians  of  Manchester, 
England,  for  the  sketch  map  of  m)-  route  ;  and  finally  to 
Iriends  who  have  seen  me  bravely  through,  I  owe  un- 
qualified thanks. 


Author. 


BosiON,  Mass.,  U.  S.  A.; 
August  20,   1S92. 


TABLE  OF  FULL-PAGE    ILLUSTRATIONS. 


CHAPTER    I.  opiosiTE 

PACE 

Bridge  built  by  Native  Engineers  .         .         .         .         .         .  22 

CHAPTER    n. 
The  Treacherous  Guide  ........  46 

CHAPTER   VI. 

Plodding  through  an  .African  Boulevard        .         .         .        .         .         146 

CHAPTER   Vni. 
Natives  coming  to  see  Bebe  Bwana         .         .  .  .  .  .  184 

CHAPTER    IX. 
On  a  Secret  Mission       .........         200 

CHAPTER    X. 
Map         ............  214 

CHAPTER    XI. 

A  Pause  for  Breath        .         .         .         .         .         .         .         .         .         238 

Natives  and  Ostrich  afjout  my  Kitchen  .         .         .         .         .         254 

CHAPTER    XII. 

AflO-AT  on  Lake  Chala,  May  9,  1S91      .  .  .         .  .  .  270 

CHAPTER   XIII. 

Tall  Grass      ...........  288 

Natives  near  Kildi.anjaro        ........         298 


TARLE     OF     FULI.-PAGE     ILLUSTRATIOXS. 


chaptf:r  XIV. 


Entering  thk  Forest 

Natives  crowding  around  Car.-wan 


CHAPTER    XV. 


Part  of  an  Encampment 
Group  of  Ta\'eta  Natin'es 


OPPOSITE 
PAGE 


306 
316 


322 


CHAPTER    XVI. 

Hamidi,  Caravan  and  Natives  ..... 

Poor  Bebe,  no  Rings       ....... 

Stream  forded  by  Caravan     ...... 

CHAPTER   XVII. 

KiLAME    N.ATIVF.S    BRINGING    PeaCF,    OFFERING 

CHAPTER    XVIII. 

Sultan  Mireali's  Subjects  attend  iiy  Full-dress  Reception 
Sultan  Mireali's  Boma  with  some  of  his  Wives  and  Surias 


334 
342 
350 


356 


378 
3S6 


Contemplative  Natives    . 
Cow  sent  by  Mireali 


CHAPTER    XIX. 


CHAPTER   XX. 


African  Stream  swum  by  Carav.an  . 
Photographic  Fiction      ..... 

CHAPTER   XXI. 
M.  French-Sheldon  in  Court  Dress 


392 
402 


40S 
414 


418 


TABLE    OF    CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER    I. 


Ho  !  FOR  East  Africa 


starting  from  London.  —  Adieu  to  Friends.  —  First  Obstacle.  —  Palanquin 
and  All  safely  on  Board  Steamship  "Madura." — .\t  Naples. — 
Heartbreaking  Farewell.  —  Reviewing  the  Situation. —  Life  on  Ship- 
board.—  Port  Said.  —  Suez  Canal.  —  Sights  on  Vnyage.  —  Aden. 


CHAPTER    H. 


Aden  to  Momi;asa 


PAGE 
13 


34 


Sights  about  Aden  — Local  Color.  —  Saffron  Woman.  —  Palanquin  on 
View.  —  Captain's  Brutality  turns  to  my  Disadvantage.  —  Lamu.  — 
My  Great  Obstacle. —  Rumored   Disturbances    in    German  Occupancy. 

—  Nearing    Mombasa. 

CH.APTER    in. 
Mombasa  to  Zanzibar        .........  63 

Approaching  Moml^asa.  —  My  Obstacle  protests.  —  Silence  a  Virtue. — 
Frere   Town    Mission. —  Impractical    Christianity,    Industrial    Mission. 

—  Native    Drink.  —  .-V    Desultory    Glance.  —  The    White    Men    in    the 
English  <.)ccupancy. 

CHAPTER    IV. 
Forming  my  Caravan         .........  83 

My  Undertaking  scouted.  —  L)i!ticulty  in  recruiting  Porters. — Gaining 
the  Auspices  of  the  Sultan  of  Zanzibar.  —  Visits  to  the  Harem. — 
Behind  Closed  Doors.  —  Sultan's  Letter.  —  Caravan  sworn  in. — 
Malignant  Fever.  —  Back  to  Mombasa.  —  My  Obstacle  converted. — 
Mr.  Mackenzie's  Letter.  —  Everything  in  Train. — Native's  Quaint  Ex- 
pression.—  No  Cripples. — Twins  tabooed.  —  Stigmatized  Bits  of  Metal. 


TABLE    OF   CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER   V. 

PAOE 

The  First  March io8 

Rain.  —  A  First  Start.  —  My  Host.  —  \ariety  uf  Supplies.  —  Routine  of 
Dailv  Life.  —  Patience  and  Other  Traits  of  my  Contingents.  — Tan- 
genizing,  the  African  .Synonyme  of  the  American  Fixing.  —  Natives' 
Quaint  Acts,  Sign  Language.  —  No  Intirm,  no  Cripples. — Twins. — 
Treachery  punished. 

CHAPTER   VI. 

First  Al.\r.m.    Excitable  Porters 130 

Masai  .Scare.  —  Products.  —  Flogging  Porters  to  protect  themselves  and 
the  Natives.  —  Methods  of  Discipline.  —  Kara,  the  Samson  of  the 
Caravan.  —  Ants.  —  Jiggers  and  C)ther  Pests.  —  Pink  Locusts.  —  Horal 
Colors.  —  Turtles.  —  Helices.  —  Name   King. 


CHAPTER   Vn. 

^\'A-NvIKA  AND  Wa-Duruma 1 53 

Thorny  March.  —  Homage  commanded  from  Natives.  —  Christened  as 
Bebe  Bwana.  —  Directness  of  Language.  —  Buss  concludes  a  Bargain. 

—  Wa-Duruma.  —  Wa-Shenzie.  —  Slaves  own  Slaves.  —  Foot-sore.  — 
Making  Camp.  —  Comforts  of  my  Itinerary. — Tooth-Sticks. — Capt. 
.Stairs's  Hints  for  Camps,  etc. 

CHAPTER   Vni. 

Re\  OI.T   AND    De.ath    .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  •  I  73 

First  and   Last    Revolt.  —  Severe    Measures   necessary.  —  Rock  Reservoirs. 

—  Yellow  Birds.  —  Medical  Duties.  —  Nightly  Horrors.  —  Marching 
in  the  Storm.  —  .\  Sentimental  if  not  Faithful  Wife.  — •  Porter  de- 
voured by  Lions. — An  Invalid.  —  Deserted  Villages.  —  Primitive 
Methods  of  tilling  the  Ground. 

CHAPTER    IX. 

nEPRA\ED    Wa-TeITA  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  1 8  7 

Difficult  March. — -Accident  to  my  Eye.  —  Sagalia  Mission  deserted. — 
Depravity  of  the  Wa-Teita.  —  Decoration  the  Religion  of  Dress.  — 
.Vrrow    Poison.  —  Polygamy  climatic.  —  Kilimanjaro   seen  in  Distance. 

—  Palanquin  pursued  by  Native  Gamins.  —  The  Ceremonious  Art  of 
spitting.  —  Whilst  eating,  viewed  in  Wonderment.  —  A  Ducking. — 
Noli  Me   Tiutgerf. — -Device   appreciated.  —  Dying    by    the    Wayside. 

—  "Buck  Fever." — A  Happy  Shot.  —  Big  Game.  —  Birds. —  Plea 
for  Methods  of  Transportation. 


TABLE    OF    CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER    X. 


PAGE 


Ox  TO   Taveta  ...........  208 

Lake  Jipo.  —  Kilimanjaro.  —  Another  Masai  Scare.  —  A  Test  of  \alor. — 
Taveta  Gates.  —  A  Cloud-Burst.  — ■  Bribery  in  Africa.  —  Welcomed  by 
Wa-Taveta.  —  Habits,  Costumes,  and  Industries.  —  The  Woman  of 
Taveta.  —  Funeral  Rites.  —  Worship.  —  Secretiveness  respecting  the 
Dead.  —  Pombe  Cups.  —  Dubious  Origin  of  Designs. —  Medical  Prac- 
tices.—  Dancing.  —  Decorations  affected  by  the  Men.  —  Trving  to 
amuse  Natives.  —  Singular  Armlets.  —  King  Ja-Ja  Ring.  —  Articles 
craved  by  Natives.  —  Confidence  in  Author. 


CH.\PTER    XI. 

Arcadian  T.aveta       .         .         .         .         .         .         .         .         .         .238 

Attributes  of  Character.  —  Farm  Products.  —  Rotten  Egg. —  Fanning 
Leather.  —  Clannish  Selection  of  (.'rnament.  —  Sumptuous  Display  of 
Native  Jewelry.  —  Marriage  Customs.  —  Mixed  Family  Relations. — 
Native  Medical  Clinic.  —  Childhood's  Limits. —  Education  by  Observa- 
tion. —  Circumscribed  Language.  —  Fire-Sticks.  —  Shooting  Fish.  — 
Universal  Kindness  to  Children.  —  Harmless  Freedom  in  the  Inter- 
mingling of  the  Sexes. 

CHAPTER   XII. 

CIRCUMNAVIG.A.T10N    OF    LaKE    ChaLA        .......  260 

My  Expedition  to  Lake  Chala.  —  English  Officer  and  Mission.  — Doctor's 
Ivindness.  —  .'Vdventurous  Descent  to  and  Circumnavigation  of  Lake 
Chala.  —  My  Friends,  the  Hostile  Rombos,  subsequently  Dr.  Peters's 
X'ictims. 

CHAPTER  XIII. 
VuLC.«JS  OF  Chaga    ..........        284 

Fundis  Craftsmen  or  Blacksmiths  of  Chaga  Land.  —  Experts,  among 
which  are  Sultans  Mandara  and  Mireali.  —  Mandara's  Disablement. — 
Simplicity  of  Native  Tools.  —  Forging  Spears  out  of  Iron  Wire.  — 
Methods  used.  —  Charcoal  Making.  —  High  Rank  of  a  Fundi.  —  A 
Fundi's  Pride.  —  Jewellers  who  make  Delicate  Chains,  Beads,  Brace- 
lets, Armlets,  Necklaces,  Ear-Rings,  and  Bells.  —  Variety  of  Orna- 
ments. —  Burnishing.  —  Religion  of  Ornamentation.  —  Men  indulge 
in  \'anities.  —  Do  the  Fancy  Beadwork,  leaving  the  Women  to  till 
the  Ground  and  care  for  Cattle.  —  Following  Fashion.' — , Various 
Significance  of  Bells.  —  Masai  Women's  Ornaments.  —  Patterns  used 
for  Spears.  —  Mark  of  the  Maker.  —  Rombo  Small  Spears.  —  Using 
all  Bits  of  Metal  for  Ornaments.  —  Adaptation  of  Bottles.  —  Native 
Unconscious  Nudity.  —  Story  of  a  Masai  Spear. 


TABLE    OF   CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER   XIV. 

PAGE 

Primitive  Kimangelia 301 

Forest  Village  never  before  visited  by  a  White  Person.  —  Debatable 
Territorial  Lines.  —  Native  Guides.  —  Passing  through  Useri. — 
Women's  Decorations.  —  Uncivil  Sultan  receives  a  Rebuff.  —  Wild 
Animals.  —  A  Masai  Woman's  Corpse  stripped  of  its  Ornaments. — 
.Sudden  Change  of  Temperature.  —  All  suffer  from  the  nightly  Cold. 
—  Trying  Route. — -Sweet  Odors  of  Veget.ition  induce  Asthma.  —  Phos- 
phorescent Mists.  —  Revelations  of  the  Night.  —  Nocturnal  Attack  of 
a  Python.  —  Snakes  and  Serpents.  —  Cutting  Way  through  Forest. — 
Habits  and  Customs.  —  Called  Author  God.  —  Stone  Spear.  —  Dis- 
covery of  a  Cave. 

CHAPTER  XV. 
Masai 319 

Blustering  Masai.  —  Attacks  upon  Taveta  make  a  Trade  of  War. — The 
Wandurobo  Dwarfish  if  not  Dwarfs.  —  Forbidding  Passage  through 
Country.  —  Women's  Privileges.  —  Grass  as  an  Emblem  of  Truce.  — 
Salt  Stone  Analysis,  by  the  Royal  College  of  Science,  London. — 
Women's  Regulation  Garb. —  Men's  Theatrical  Get-up  and  Actions. — 
Meat-Eaters.  —  One  Thousand  ready  for  Battle.  —  "  Wow,"  a  Threat 
met  by  Threat.  —  Blind  Zeal  in  Photography.  —  Spitting  an  Urbane 
Civility.  —  Values  of  Women  and  Cattle.  —  Full-dress  Reception.  - — 
Picturesque    Phrases. 

CHAPTER  XVI. 
Heroic  Hamidi  and  Others     ........        334 

Hamidi,  Author's  Headman  of  Headmen.  —  Refusing  to  conduct  .Author.  — 
Heroic  .Action.  —  Final  Consent.  —  His  Devotion  to  his  Leader. — ■ 
Woman's  Loin-Cloth.  — Wa-Kahe  Belief  in  Transmigration  of  the 
Spirits  of  their  .Ancestors.  —  Wa-Kahe  Industries. — Native  Thief 
captured. — -Tempted  by  Desire  to  possess  a  Waterproof  Cloth. — A 
Little  Maid  of  Kilema's  Generosity.  —  Establishing  a  Code  of  Prestige. 

—  Latent  Fun  of  the  Natives. — ^To  wish  for  was  to  possess.  —  Josefe 
dubbed  as  the  Trumpet  of  Bi'bc.  —  .-Vnswering  me  as  Sir.  —  Members 
of  my  Migrating  Household.  —  Washing  Days. —  Women  Porters. — 
Porters  secreting  Articles  in  their  Wool. —  Daily  Life  among  Porters. 

—  Cutting  out  Thorns.  —  Caravan  .Anchor. 

CHAPTER  XVII. 
Sultan  Mikeali         ..........        356 

Mireali,  Sultan  of  Marungu,  dressed  as  a  Guy.  —  His  Warm  Welcome 
and  Generosity.  —  Resumption  of  Native  Costume.  —  Coveted  Music 
Box.  —  His  Wives,  Surias,  and    Household.  —  Mireali's    Talks. —  His 


TABLE   OF   CONTENTS.  5 

Contentions  uitli    Mandara.  —  His  Ambition    to    become  enlightened.  paok 

—  Sultan  Mariama  and  the  Saw.  —  Native  Fabrics.  —  Native-made 
Candles.  —  Stuff  of  Court  Gown  called  Queens'  Cloth.  —  Sunglass. — 
Mireali  dances  the  Moon  Dance. — A  Deputation  of  his  Subjects  en- 
treating the  Author  to  stay.  —  Happy  Chance  for  a  Photograph.  —  The 
Perished  Umbrella.  —  Messenger  from  .Sultan  to  .Sultan.  —  How  to 
check  Interpreter. 

CH.\PTER  XVIII. 

Characters       .         .  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  -377 

Musical  Instruments.  —  Sultan  Fumbo.  —  Rame/an's  Artitice.  —  Baraka,  my 
Steward.  —  Estabhshment  of  Discipline.  —  Porter  Francez.  —  Roll 
Call. 

CHAPTER  XIX. 

Sultan  Mandara  of  Mo.schi     .  .  .  .         .  .  .  .        39* 

His  Crafty,  L'nscrui)ulous  Ways.  —  Visit  to  his  Boma.  — Caves  at  the  Foot 
of  the  Hill  of  the  Site  of  his  Village.  —  Fiction  with  Germans.  —  Story 
of  a  Little  Native  Child. 

CHAPTER  XX. 
Fleeting  Sights        ..........        406 

Albinos.  —  Meeting  Elephants.  —  Big  Game.  —  Water  Incident.  —  Women 
classed  by  Garments.  —  Offering  a  Head  of  Hair  for  Sale.  —  Effect  of 
Climate  on  Photography.  —  A  Photographic  Fiction. 

CHAPTER  XXI. 
Homeward  Bound    .         .         .         .         .         .         .         .         .         .416 

Through  the  German  Territory.  —  Palanijuin  Accident.  —  Meeting  Capt. 
Stairs.  —  Care  on  Steamship  '-Madura."  —  Familiar  Scenes.  —  Arrival 
at  Naples.  —  Home  again. 

CHAPTER  XXII. 
Afterilath        ...........        428 


Medical  and  SurijIcal  .\ppLLA.NCEi    .         .         .         .         .         .         .431 


TABLE    OF    TEXT    ILLUSTRATIONS. 


CHAPTER    I. 

Initial  Letter  H,  Two  Native  Water-Carriers  joined  by  Rubber  Plant.  —  H. 
S.  Wellcome.  —  E.  L.  Sheldon.  —  Surgeon  T.  H.  Parke.  —  Naples.  —  Aden.  — 
Capt.  Avern.  —  Steamship  "Madura."  —  Dredge  on  Suez  Canal. —  Port  Said 
Jetty. —  Entrance  to  Suez  Canal.  —  Bedouin  .\rab  Chief.  —  .Arab  Camel  Caravan. 
—  Water  Caravan.  —  Suez. —  Native  Dobe  or  Washerwoman.  —  Tailpiece,  Cas- 
solet  used  on  Coaling  Barges. 

CH.APTER    II. 

Initial  Letter  A,  Tiger.  —  Mosque  at  .\den.  —  Masai  Head-Dress,  Red 
and  White  Painted  Leather  Face  Piece,  Ostrich  Plumes.  —  Abyssinian 
Warrior.  — Water  Tanks  at  .Aden.  —  Son  of  the  Mahadi.  —  Delight  of  a  Cordo- 
fan,  Negro  on  a  Chicken  Coop.  —  Fellah  Water-Carrier.  —  Abyssinian  Slave 
Children.  —  Egyptian  Scissors-Grinders.  —  Native  Types  of  Porters.  —  Bushiri, 
the  Slave  Raider.  —  Somali  Family.  —  Queen  of  Somali. — The  Queen's  Slave 
Woman.  —  Chaga  Car\'ed  Snuff-Box,  Egyptian  Design.  —  .Author's  Sun  Protect- 
ors. —  Slave  Dhow,  built  without  Metal  Spikes  or  Cleats.  — Varbon  Lelli,  one  of 
my  Faithfuls.  —  George  S.  Mackenzie,  my  Great  Obstacle.  —  Mombasa  Fort, 
built  by  \'asco  da  Gama  in  Si.\teenth  Century.  —  Tailpiece,  Ostrich  Boa  and 
Feathers  bought  at  Aden. 

CHAPTER    III. 

Initial  Letter  W,  Lemur.  —  Cocoanut  Plantation,  Mombasa. — .Author's 
Hand,  showing  Rings  and  Bracelets  for  Gifts.  —  .Arab  Quarters,  Mom- 
basa.—  Date  Palm.  —  Soudanese  Warriors.  —  Snuff-Box,  studded  Silver, 
Metal  Chain,  Chaga  make.  —  .Arab  Woman  selling  Bananas  to  Porter. —  Gourd 
Snuff-Box,  studded  Silver  and  Carved  Patterns,  Chaga  make.  —  .Arab  Blind 
Beggar.  —  Snuff-Box,  studded  Silver,  Metal  Chain,  Chaga  make.  —  Rescued 
Slave   Girls,  Various    Tribes.  —  .Abyssinian    Slave    Girl. —  Native  Warriors. — 


TABLE     OF    TEXT     ILLUSTRATIONS.  7 

Somali  Warriors.  —  Ear  Stretcher  worn  by  Missionary  Girls,  Mombasa.  —  Tail- 
piece, Eland  Bull. 

CHAPTER    IV. 

Initial  Letter  F,  African  Monkey  and  Grass.  —  Mombasa  from  English 
Point.  —  M.  French-Sheldon,  Bebe  Bwana,  in  Travelling  Costume.  —  Sultan  of 
Zanzibar,  Autographed  Photograph.  —  Ivory  Market  at  Bagamoyo.  • — Sultan's 
Three  Henchmen.  —  Woman  of  Sultan's  Harem.  —  Woman  of  Sultan's  Harem. 

—  Sultan's  Letter.  —  Arab  Letter- Writer.  —  Arabian  Musician.  —  Arab  Sugar- 
Cane  Seller  and  Porters.  —  Dervish  Musician.  —  Mombasa.  —  Harbor  Zanzibar 
and  Sultan's  Palace.  —  George  S.  Mackenzie's  Letter.  —  Black  Ivory,  or  Slaves 
at  Bagamoyo.  — Tailpiece,  Hunteri. 

CHAPTER   V. 

Initial  Letter  M,  African  Elephant's  Head  and  Moss.  —  Josefe  and  Natives. 

—  Arabs  Resting.  —  A  Study  of  Pombe  Cups,  .Author's  Collection.  —  Buffalo 
Bull's  Head.  —  Masai  Flag  of  Truce,  a  Song 'of  Peaceful  Intentions,  carried 
by  Author's  Caravan.  —  Khartoum  Negro  before  Barber's  Day.  —  Vv'hirling  and 
Howling  Dervishes  seen  at  Zanzibar.  —  Type  Native  Soldier.  —  Type  Native 
Soldier.  —  Type  Native  Soldier.  —  Native  Women  Water-Carriers.  —  Small 
Game  ;  a  daily  Scene  on  Safari.  —  Masai  Spear.  —  Colored  Trade  Cloths.  — 
Second  Study  of  Pombe  Cups  in  Author's  Collection.  —  Gourd  Water  Bottle  or 
Calabash,  ornamented  with  Beads  and  Metal  Chains.  —  Brass  Chain  Necklace, 
Chaga  make.  —  Ear  Ornament  made  of  Wart  Hog  Tusks  united  with  Braided 
Fibre,  ornamented  with  Chains.  —  Tailpiece,  Bush  Buck. 

CHAPTER   VI. 

Initial  Letter  S,  Giraffe  and  Native  Grasses. —  Wait-a-Bit  Tree.  —  Brass 
Bead  Necklace,  Chaga  make.  —  Luncheon  in  the  Open.  —  Inlaid  Wooden 
Bowl  stained  Brown.  —  Wooden  Pot,  stained  Brown,  dug  out  of  a  solid  Piece 
with  Knives  or  Flints. —  Inlaid  Wooden  Bowl.  —  Egg-shaped  and  Venetian 
Trade  Beads.  —  Dawa,  or  Medicine  Beads,  made  of  Black  Beans.  —  Jewelled 
Swords  given  to  Sultan  Mandara.  —  Knob  Kerry  Sticks  made  variously  of  Ebony, 
Rhinoceros  Horn,  and  Ivory.  —  Author's  Rifle  and  Gun  Case  first  made  by 
Natives  East  Africa.  —  Portrait  of  Headman  Hamidi.  —  Native  Knives  of  all 
kinds,  and  Sheaths.  —  Kara,  Samson  of  the  Caravan.  —  Native  Banana  Knife 
taken  from  the  Forge,  unpolished.  —  Native  Wooden  Pot.  —  Third  Study  of 
Pombe  Cups,  showing  first  Attempt  of  Figure  Drawing,  and  a  Wooden  Pan  Pipe. 

—  Twin  Meal  Pots.  —  Helices  found  from  Coast  to  Highest  Point  travelled  on 
Kilimanjaro  by  Author.  —  French-Sheldon  Name  Rings. — Tailpiece,  Hunteri. 


TAllLE     OF     TEXT     II.I.USTKATK 'NS. 


CHAPTER   VII. 


Initial  Letter  T,  African  Lion  and  Palm-Tree.  —  Study  Pombe  Cups. — 
M'toto  Bunduki,  Author's  Revolvers.  —  Egyptian  Musician.  —  Women  of  tlie 
Harem.  —  Egyptian  Couriers.  —  Native  Gossips.  —  Loads  for  Four  Porters.  — 
Grass  Mat  for  Porter's  Bed.  —  Sandal,  Bottom  and  Top.  —  Pombe  Cup.  — 
Wooden  Pipe.  —  Wooden  Ear  Stretcher.  —  Capt.  Wm.  E.  Stairs,  R.  E. — 
Native  Wooden  Basin.  —  The  M.  French-Sheldon  Medicine  Belt.  —  Chart  of 
Camp.  —  Tailpiece,  Eland  Cow. 

CHAPTER   VHI. 

Initial  Letter  P,  Masai  Donkeys'  Heads  and  Cacti.  —  Wait-a-Bit  Thorn. 
Raconta  Beads.  —  Native  Wooden  Combs.  —  Native  Medicine  Box.  —  Trade 
Beads.  —  Metal  Necklaces  for  Gifts.  —  Masai  Long  Spear.  —  Kanzu  worn  by 
Headman.  —  Copper  Bead  Kibosho  Necklace.  —  Wooden  Meal  Dish.  —  Sweet 
Grass  Bead  Necklace.  —  Bead-inlaid  Bowl.  —  Native  Four-legged  Dish,  made 
of  one  Piece  of  Wood.  —  Spiral  Metal  Necklace,  Native  Work.  —  Native 
Wooden  Spoon.  —  Hide  and  Bead  Cap  worn  by  Sultans.  —  Tailpiece,  Head 
of  Gazella   Walleri. 

.   CHAPTER   IX. 

Initial  Letter  D,  Native  Goat  with  Black  Face,  and  Fohage.  —  Wa-Teita 
Hut  and  Banana-Tree.  —  Poisoned  Arrows  and  Fire  Arrows.  —  Native  Metal 
Rings  and  Goatskin  Brotherhood  Rings.  —  Snuff- Box  made  Gazelle's  Horn,  and 
ornamented.  —  Brass  and  Iron  Beads,  Native  make.  —  Goatskin  Flap,  orna- 
mented with  Beads  and  Chains,  worn  by  many  Tribes.  —  Wa-Teita  Bead  and 
Metal  Ear-Rings,  Twenty-four  worn  at  a  Time. — Wa-Teita  Ear-Rings,  made  of 
Masai  Beads. — Wa-Teita  Bead  Hoop  Ear-Rings,  Twenty-four  and  more  worn 
in  One  Ear.  —  Wa-Teita  Sem-Sem,  small  Blue  and  Red  Bead  Necklace,  pon- 
derous. —  Caravan  Path.  —  Beaded  African  Fig  Leaf,  called  by  other  Travellers 
Tassels. — Two  Beaded  Girdles.  —  Pigeon-Egg  shaped  Beads,  and  Pinhead 
Beads.  —  Bead-inlaid  Dish.  —  Wooden  Basin.  —  Rhinoceros  Head. —  Jewelled 
Presents  given  Sultans. — Tailpiece,  Gazella  Walleri. 

CHAPITER   X. 

Initial  Letter  W,  Fat-tailed  Sheep,  with  Giant  Ferns.  —  Lake  Jipo.  —  A 
Test  of  Valor.  —  Living  Tree  Gates  of  Taveta.  —  Wild  Cotton  Pod,  unnamed. 
—  Taveta  White  and  Pink  Girdle.  —  Study  of  Four  Pombe  Cups.  —  Taveta 
Bead  Collar  and  Necklace. — The  Woman  of  Taveta.  —  Bead  Belt  presented  to 
Author  by  the  Woman  of  Taveta.  —  Calf  s  Stomach  Head-Dress,  ornamented 
with  Beads  and  Chains.  —  Snuff-Box,  ornamented  with  Beads  and  Chains. — 


TABLE     OF     TEXT     ILLUSTRATIONS.  9 

Brass  \Vire  Spring  Necklace,  Native  make.  —  Cotton  Cap  made  by  Porters  on 
Safari.  —  Cotton  Cap  made  on  Safari,  from  which  Natives  copy  Designs  for 
Pombe  Cups.  —  Silver-inlaid  Wooden  Bowl.  —  Dawa  Necklace.  —  Taveta  Bead 
Belts,  Pink  and  White,  Red  and  Blue.  —  Taveta  Four-legged  Stool,  made  out 
of  One  Piece  of  Wood,  Top  of  Stool  Designs  burned  in.  —  Child's  Bead 
Fringe  Girdle.  —  Fine  Chain  Girdle,  Bone  Armlet.  —  Silver  Ring  of  King 
Ja-Ja,  similar  in  Design  to  Bone  Armlet.  —  Josefe,  the  Interpreter,  Wag  of  the 
Caravan.  —  Tailpiece,  Male  Water  Buck. 

CHAPTER  XI. 

Initial  Letter  G,  Ostrich  and  African  Papyrus.  —  Wa-Teita  Sweet  Grass 
Necklace.  —  View  of  Kilimanjaro.  —  Author's  Alpine  Stock  with  Noli  Mc 
Tangere  Pennant. — Taveta  People. —  B^be  Bwana's  Canvas  Villa.  —  A  ()uiet 
Siesta  in  my  Palanquin. —  Bead  and  Chain  Embroidered  Loin-Cloth  of  Sultana. 

—  Snuff- Box.  —  Native  Mail  Carriers  with  Despatches  from  Home.  —  Porters 
coaxing  a  Fire  during  a  Cold  Day.  —  Bearded  Masai  Warrior's  Collar,  won  when 
Twelve  Foes  have  been  killed.  —  Bead-inlaid  Gourd.  —  Warrior's  Spear.  — 
Catherine  Wheel  Double  Brass  Ear- Ring.  —  A  Future  Warrior. — Tailpiece, 
Brindled  Wildebeest  Bull. 

CHAPTER  XII. 

Initial  Letter  W,  Vultures  and   Foliage. —  Lake  Chala,  Southwestern  View. 

—  Lake  Chala,  Northeastern  View.  —  Phalacrocorax  .^fricanus,  shot  on  Lake 
Chala.  —  Phalacrocorax  Carbo,  shot  on  Lake  Chala.  —  View  Kilimanjaro. — 
Rombo  Spear.  —  Rombo  Hippopotamus  Hide  Shield,  embossed  Designs, 
Outside.  —  Rombo  Shield,  Inside.  —  Toy  Bird  Cause  of  a  Panic.  —  Hostile 
Rombos.  —  Rombo  Mctims  of  German  Guns.  —  Tailpiece,  Bush  Buck. 

CHAPTER  XIII. 

Initial  Letter  V,  Turtle  and  Maize.  —  Brass  and  Iron  Bell  Ear-Rings.  — 
Native  Calfskin  Bellows.  —  Native  Calfskin  Bellows.  —  Masai  Spear. — Group 
Metal  Chain  Ear-Rings,  Brass,  Copper,  and  Iron,  and  Glass  Beads.  —  Real 
Size  Smallest  Chaga  Brass  Beads.  —  Metal  Ear-Rings.  —  Native  Seme  and 
Scabbard.  —  Iron  Bell  worn  by  Woman  during  First  Pregnancy.  —  Bells 
worn  by  Infants.  —  Medicine  Man's  Knife  and  Poison  Tubes. — Set  of  Orna- 
ments worn  by  Masai  Woman.     Iron  Coils  finished  with  Brass  and  Copper. 

—  Warrior's  Bell  with  Beaded  Leg- Band.  —  Dancing  Bell.  —  Native  Vulcan's 
make  of  Bracelets  and  Goatskin  Bracelet.  —  Tailpiece.  Brindled  Wildebeest 
Bull. 


lO  TAllLE     OF     TEXT     ILLUSTRATIONS. 


CHAPTER  XIV. 


Initial  Letter  K,  Elephants  and  Hippopotamus  and  Palm-Tree.  —  Masai 
Colobus-skin  Leglet. — Ostrich  Feather  Masai  Mask.  —  Useri  Head  Orna- 
ment.—  Masai  El-Moran.  —  Masai  El-Moran.  —  Buffalo  Bull.  —  Palanquin 
and  Python.  —  Chaga  Chain  Filet. — Camping  Ground,  Kimangelia.  —  Chaga 
Snuff- PJox,  ornamented  Copper  Wire  Chains  and  Beads.  —  Chain  and  Bead 
Ciirdle.  —  Metal  Bead  Necklace.  —  Tailpiece,  Male  Water  Buck,  or  Kobus 
Sing-.Sing. 

CHAPTER   XV. 

Initial  Letter  B,  Striped  Mouse,  Balsams,  and  Heliotrope. —  Masai 
Woman's  Neck  .-^rmor  of  Metal  Coils.  —  Masai  Brass  Picked-out  Bracelet. — 
Masai  Women  Callers.  —  Masai  War  Mask,  Ostrich  Feathers  and  Lion's  Mane. 

—  Split  Vulture  Feather  Ruff,  Part  of  Masai  War  Uniform.  —  Masai  Necklace, 
Metal  Chains  and  Spring.  —  Masai  Nebara,  White  and  Red  Cotton  sewn  to- 
gether in  Strips.  —  Wow,  Masai  \\'arrior  threatening.  —  Masai  Women  with 
Neck  .Armor  and  Catherine  Wheel  Ear- Rings  and  Hide  Helmet.  —  Masai 
Brass  Picked-out  Collar.  —  Tailpiece,  Male  M'pallah. 

CHAPTER    XVI. 

Initial  Letter  X,  Zebra  and  Huge  Maidenhair  Fern.  —  Masai  Ostrich 
Mask.  —  Masai  Spears  and  Shields,  with  .Archaic  Designs.  —  Chaga  Metal  Chain 
(iirdle. —  Large  Masai  Nebara,  Brilliant  Red  and  White  Cotton. —  Leather 
Beaded  Loin-Cloth  with  a  Histor)'.  —  Portraits  of  Four  Headmen.  —  Head  of 
Oryx  Beisa  Bull.  —  Colobus  Monkey-Skins.  —  .An  old  Masai  warning  .Author. — 
Tailpiece. 

CHAPTER    XVII. 

Initial  Letter  A,  with  Humming-Bird  and  Convolvulus. —  Delicate  Chain 
Necklace,  with  Spiral  Brass  Pendants.  —  Sultan  Mireali  in  Native  .Attire. — 
Presentation  Jewelled  Belt,  Dagger,  and  Ornaments. —  Bead  Girdles  worn 
solely  as  .Attire  by  Mireali  Surias  (\\'omen).  —  Beaded  Fig  Leaf,  sometimes 
called  a  Tassel.  —  Beaded  Fig  Leaf,  Metal  Fringed.  —  -Agary  Beads  and  Dawa 
Chains,  rare.  —  Candle  made  by  Sultan  Mireali.  —  Sultan  Mireali  and  Courtiers. 

—  Dancing  Wig,  Front  View,  made  of  Colobus  Monkey  Hair. —  Dancing  Wig, 
Hack  Mew,  made  of  Colobus  Monkey  White  Fur.  —  Delicate  Chain  Necklace.  — 
I'seri  Bone  ICar-Rings.  —  Long  Chain  Necklaces,  reach  to  the  Wearer's  Waist. 

—  Moschi  Carved  Wooden  Staff. —  Masai  Dancing  Wand.  —  Staff  covered 
with  Iron  Rings,  to  conserve  for  Various  Uses.  —  Tailjiiece,  Head  Male 
M'pallah  (Melampus  pallah). 


TABLE     OF     TEXT     ILLUSTRATIONS.  I  I 


CHAPTER    XVIII. 


Initial  Letter  L,  Gazelles  and  Papyrus.  —  Ramezan. — Baraka. —  Sultan 
Fumba's  Crown. —  Sultan  Fumba  and  Suite.  —  Tailpiece,  Kudu. 

CHAPTER  XIX. 

Initial  Letter  I,  Hippopotamus  and  Palm.  —  Sultan  Mandara  of  Moschi. — 
African  Spear.  —  Held  in  Bondage.  —  Study  of  Native-made  Spoons.  —  .Arab 
Flags  of  Welcome. — Blue  Cotton  Bead  and  Chain  Embroidered  Woman's 
Cloth.  —  Out  of  the  Forest.  —  Tailpiece,  Eland  Bull. 

CHAPTER  XX. 

Initial  Letter  M,  Gazella  Walleri  Buck  and  Giant  Ferns.  —  Tailpiece, 
Eland  Cow. 

CHAPTER  XXI. 

Initial  Letter  O,  African  Baboon,  Serpent,  and  Vine.  —  Porters  testing 
the  Bridge.  —  A  Clandestine  Meeting.  —  A  Repast  of  Arab  Family.  —  .Arab 
Musicians.  —  Fellah  Woman  Water-Carrier.  —  "  Does  She  Live  ?  " 

CHAPTER   XXII. 

Initial  Letter  Q,  Humming- Bird,  Pepper  Plant. — Tailpiece,  Jacques 
Sheldon. 


SULTAN    TO    SULTAN. 


CHAPTPZR  I. 

HO!   FOR  EAST  AFRICA. 

/"^  For     East     Africa  ! 
possessed    my  brain 
when  all    the    prep- 
arations  possible  to  make 
before     reaching    Aden 
were  completed,  and  a 
myriad    of   boxes   and 
a  bewilderment  of  non- 
descript     packages  — 
my    tent,    gun,    table, 
chairs,      pistols,      photo- 
graphic   apparatus,     and 
personal      effects  —  had 
been  sent  by  steamer  to 
meet    me    at    Naples, 
_  •'-^^    and    for    the     first 

time  I  felt  I  was  without  doubt  actually  bound  for  East  Africa. 
A    hundred    or    more    s)mpathetic    friends    and   acquaintances, 


14 


SULTAN     TO     SUI.TAN. 


HENRV    S.   WELLCOME. 


throncring  the  Charing  Cross  Station,  albeit  London  was  be- 
nighted in  a  pea-soup  fog,  thick,  black,  damp,  and  chilly,  I 
was  thrilled  with  ineliable    delight.       Gruesome    remarks  were 

intermingled  with  inspiring  words  of 
faith  in  my  success:  "  Well,  }OU  have 
my  prayers  for  safe  return."  "  If 
you  return  alive,  what  a  story  you'll 
have  to  tell ! "  "  Do  be  reason- 
able, and  abandon  this  mad,  useless 
scheme."  "  Brave  woman,  you'll  ac- 
complish all  3'ou  aim  to ;  we  owe 
you  a  vote  of  thanks  tor  )-our  cour- 
age and  self-sacrifice."  "Be  cau- 
tious,  vigilant,  ready  for  any  surprise,  careful  of  your  health, 
and  you'll  win,"  said  .Surgeon  T.  H.  Parke.  And  A.  Bruce, 
the  sturd)-  son-in-law  of  the  great 
Livingstone,  thrust  into  my  hands  a 
long-range  field  glass,  as  if  to  bid  me 
be  far-sipfhted.  "Remember,  nothino- 
is  accomplished  without  giving  )our- 
self  up  to  the  work  at  whatever  sac- 
rifice, and  that  honest  failure  is  not 
defeat.  We  believe  )oii  will  suc- 
ceed." His  true  words  were  branded 
on    my    brain    indelibl)-,    and    echoed  e-  l.  .sheldon. 

through  my  thoughts  time  out  of  number.  Around  me  pressed 
lovely  girl   friends,  sentimental    hero-worshippers,  who  set  the 


RBC 


HO  !      I'(  iR     EAST    AFRICA. 


15 


seal  of  admiration  upon  my  lips  by  their  farewell  kiss,  and 
whispered,  " Hoiv  I  wish  I  could  go  ivith  you!"  Sedate  man 
friends  looked  compassionately  at  my  husband,  and  involun- 
taril)-  calculated  that  the  time  would  be  brief  ere  he  should 
regret  his  consent,  which  I  had  flouted  widel)',  as  evidence 
that  when  he  sanctioned  my  undertaking,  it  was  not  irra- 
tional. We  were  off  midst  cheers,  pelting  of  flowers,  and 
the  usual  half-hysterical,  frantic  commotion  attending  a  de- 
parture where  a  friend's  life  seemed  at  stake.  At  last  the 
cars  were  speeding  away  from  Lon- 
don town,  and  my  husband  and  two 
friends,  H.  S.  Wellcome,  Surgeon 
T.  H.  Parke,  and  myself  were  the  sole 
occupants  of  the  railway  carriage, 
destined  for  Dover.  The  conversation 
was  somewhat  constrained;  however, 
the  good  doctor  heaped  upon  me  a 
host  ot   practical  advice,  the  outcome  surgeon  1.  h.  parkk. 

of  his  expansive  experience  respecting  the  preservation  of 
my  own  health,  and  the  amelioration  of  probable  sufferings 
from  the  ine\itable  African  fever ;  as  well  as  how  to  ad- 
minister the  contents  of  my  extensive  medical  kit  in  behalf 
of  my  caravan.  He  had  taken  pains  to  write  out  minute 
directions,  and  so  plainly  that  a  child  could  follow  such  in 
fullest  detail.  At  Dover  w^e  parted  from  our  two  friends. 
Arriving  at  Calais,  we  hastil)'  counted  up  the  luggage  and 
met   the    first   difficult)-.     The    railroad  officials  had  not  prop- 


1 6  SULTAN     TO     SILTAX. 

erly  notified  the  manager  of  rolling  stock  of  the  dimen- 
sions of  my  Palanquin,  which  proved  too  large  to  get  into 
the  luggage  vans.  Cables  were  flashed  back  to  London. 
We  implored  the  officials,  at  our  risk  of  damage,  to  place 
the  bo.x  containing  it  upon  a  coal  truck,  or  even  to  rip 
off  the  casing,  all  to  no  purpose :  red  tape  prevailed  to 
such  a  degree  not  one  official  on  the  spot  had  authority 
to  make  the  slightest  innovation.  The  station  master  waved 
the  detested  green  signal  flag,  then  came  the  demon  screech 
of  the  unthrottled  engine,  and  away  we  whisked  out  of  the 
station,  yelling  out  of  the  window,  until  beyond  hearing, 
messages  to  the  officials,  finally  to  relapse  in  silence,  and 
deliberate  as  to  what  should  be  our  next  move.  Considering 
we  had  paid  over  ninety-five  dollars  (eighteen  guineas)  to 
register  the  Palanquin  as  personal  luggage,  we  felt  duped. 
Personally,  I  secretly  thought  it  was  rather  absurd  to  think 
of  trying  to  take  the  luxurious  article  with  me,  when  it 
was  next  to  impossible  to  have  it  transported  from  England 
to  the  coast  of  Italy  after  every  care,  forethought,  and 
prearrangement  had  been  devoted  to  make  it  absolutely  sure 
that  it  would  go  on  the  same  train  with  us.  At  every 
station  we  raided  the  telegraph  offices,  made  supervisory 
arrangements  with  station  masters,  saw  various  American 
consuls,  in  the  hope  of  more  effectually  engaging  the  atten- 
tion of  railroad  officials.  Everything  was  being  done  at 
both  ends.  Unluckily,  the  luggage  we  had  with  us  was 
left    in    charge    of   a    dazed    servant,  who  sat    calmly  by  and 


HO! 


FOR     EAST     AFRICA. 


17 


allowed  part  of  it  to  be  carried  away  from  our  train.  This 
then  had  to  be  sent  back  for.  Then  on  reaching  the  Italian 
frontier  the  cases  containing  my  medicines  were  suspected,  but 
fortunately  I  was  provided  with  a  certified  inventory  furnished 
by  the  Italian  consul  at  London,  so  this  was  soon  adjusted. 
On  reaching  Naples,  the  steamship  "Madura"  had  not  been 
sighted,  but  was  expected  hourly,    and    would  not    remain    in 


port  but  a  few  hours.  News  also  came  that  the  Palanquin 
had  reached  Rome,  and  would  arrive  next  morning  ;  alas!  in 
the  usual  course  of  things  this  would  be  too  late  for  the  ship, 
and  hence,  as  a  last  resort,  it  would  have  to  be  taken  to 
Brindisi,  and  shipped  on  the  French  Line  to  meet  my  ship 
at  Aden.  However,  through  the  courtesy  of  the  directors  of 
the  British  East  India  Steamship  Company,  the  agent  was  au- 
thorized   to    detain    the    steamer   one    day   for    the    Palanquin. 


i8 


SULTAN     TO     SULTAX. 


I\ly  "white  elephant"  arrived,  and  was  held  in  durance  at  the 
bonded  warehouse.  The  entire  day  we  passed  going  from 
office  to  office  showing  my  passports,  testifying  as  to  who  I 
was,  and  what  I  proposed  to  do,  and  having  the  cased  mys- 
tery in  all  of  its  grandeur  unboxed,  examined,  commented 
upon,  explained;     finally    the  next    day  —  the    ship    had    been 


swinging  at  anchor  for  my  benefit  for  twenty-four  hours  — 
the  Palanquin  was  sent  in  charge  of  custom-house  officials 
to  be  delivered  personally  by  them  upon  the  ship,  so  that 
it  could  not  be  tampered  with  ;  one  might  have  supposed  it 
was  a  portable  article  I  could  pocket  and  surreptitiously 
sell  to  defraud  the  government. 


HO  !      FOR    EAST    AFRICA. 


19 


The  heat  was  torrid.  Worry  and  our  unflagging  efforts 
had  occupied  our  minds  to  the  exchision  of  the  diresome 
thoughts  of  parting  which  would  otherwise  have  made  those 
last  hours  painful  and  melancholy.  My  husband  accompanied 
me  to  the  steamship  and  placed  me  in  charge  of  Capt. 
James  Avern.  Striving  to  keep  my  courage  up,  I  took  snap- 
shots of  the  harbor  and  finally  of  the  one  whose  devoted 
heart  was  aching  with  apprehension. 
The  time  to  haul  up  the  anchor  came. 
Then  the  signal  "all  ashore,"  we 
parted,  and  the  boatmen,  awaiting 
the  last  passenger,  pulled  the  oars 
with  sone,  the  last  ineffable  look 
was  interchansred,  the  handkerchief 
that  had  defiantly  fluttered  farewell 
was  soon  saturated  in  tears.  A  res- 
olution to  acquit  myself  bravely 
occupied  my  thoughts  as  I  watched  the  one  dear  to  me  fade 
from  the  horizon,  and  pondered,  half  oblivious  to  my  immediate 
surroundings,  when  suddenly  I  became  conscious  that  I  was 
the  cynosure  of  strange  eyes.  A  firm  step  sounded  on  the 
deck  behind  me,  and  a  voice  gently  said, — 
"So  you  are  ho!  for  East  Africa,  madam?" 
"  If  the  steamer  does  not  go  to  the  bottom,  yes,"  I  snapped 
out  with  acrimony,  to  the  amusement  of  the  inopportune,  cu- 
rious interloper.  Poor  fellow,  he  had  an  objectionable,  obtru- 
sive nose  for  news,  and  was  my  constant  tormentor  throughout 


CAPT.    JAMES    AVERN. 


20 


SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 


the  voyage.  Alas  !  he  died  after  a  brief  fortnight's  residence 
at  Zanzibar,  a  victim  to  the  indiscretion  so  many  strangers 
are  guilty  of  upon  going  to  the  tropics,  which  is  too  often 
fatal.  Reckless  exposure  to  the  sun  and  violent  exercise, 
which  produces  excessive  heat,  so  intolerable  to  the  impatient 
novice  that  the  dripping  clothing  is  inconsequently  stripped 
off,  a  cold  bath  indulged  in,  which  results  in  a  sudden  chill, 
and  mischief  sets   in  usually  with  gravity. 

Capt.  Avern,  an  expert  seaman  and  an  unfailing  com- 
mander, as  well  as  a  man  of  varied  experience,  I  found  rich 
in  expedients,  and  an  invaluable  counsellor  and  instructor  for 
me  upon  almost  all  matters.  My  East  African  project  was  a 
theme  of  unremitting  conversation.      Everything  was  done  for 


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STEAMSHIP    "MADURA. 


my  personal  comfort,  amusement,  and  contentment,  from  the 
commander  down  to  the  lowest  menial  of  the  steamer's  crew. 
There  were  beside  myselt  only  two  first-class  passengers,  — 
men, — and  soon  the  steamship  "  Madura"  assumed  the  aspect 


HO 


FOR     EAST     AFRICA. 


21 


of  a  private  steam  yacht.  The  captain,  a  most  agreeable  host, 
took  apparently  great  delight  in  contributing  to  our  individual 
tastes  and  entertainment.  The  "  Madura  "  has  its  own  his- 
tory, is  most  famous,  every  timber  athrill  with  the  recollec- 
tion of  the  tread  of  celebrated  travellers  and  explorers, 
animated  by  every  imaginable  motive,  who  have  trod  her  decks 
going  to,   or   returning   triumphant,    or    left    as    prey    of   death 


THE  DREDGE,  SUEZ  CANAL. 

in  Africa.  The  reminiscences  ot  this  vessel  would  comprise 
not  only  a  graphic  story,  but  give  a  history  of  startling  events 
and  tell  of  leaders  who  have  acted  as  great  discoverers  and 
civllizers ;  of  brave  people,  who  knew  how  to  be  faithful  to 
their  leaders  or  the  reverse, —  a  story  of  misguided  infatu- 
ates, of  honest  workers,  of  benefactors,  of  selfish  worldlings, 
of  ambition's  votaries,  of  despair's  victims ;  yet  with  all,  she 
floats   on   serenely,   unruffled,   steadfast   to   her  course,  making 


2  2  SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 

no  visible  sign  of  her  invested  greatness  or  reflected  honors, 
unstained,  excepting  possibly  the  ink  splashes  with  which  I 
carelessly  defaced  her  spotless  decks,  and  for  which  I  was 
more  than  once  gently  but  severely  reprimanded  by  the 
deck  master. 

Lovely  mornings,  bright,  sparkling,  clear  as  a  crystal,  with 
the  unabashed  moon  hanging  resplendent  in  the  blue  sky 
as  if  loitering  to  feel  the  full  embrace  of  the  uprising  sun. 
As  we  passed  through  the  Straits  of  Messina,  in  full  view 
of  the  Apennine  Mountains,  then  came  Sicily  and  Mount  Etna, 
the  last  sight  of  land  until  we  reached  the  Egyptian  coast,  — 
a  most  felicitous  contrast  to  the  London  foof,  and  conducive 
to  mental  exhilaration  and  physical  exuberance.  just  the 
thing  to  sweep  the  cobwebs  out  of  one's  brain  and  allow  the 
mind  to  adjust  itself  to  a  proper  focus,  as  well  as  to  rest 
the  body,  and  impart  that  order  of  courage  belonging  to 
physical  well-being. 

Then  came  fickle  weather,  the  Ides  of  March  were  hav- 
ing a  jubilee,  —  sunbursts,  rain,  even  hail,  —  an  ideal  time  to 
read,  ponder,  rearrange  boxes,  study  photographic  apparatus, 
etc. 

A  ship's  rat  established  my  reputation  as  a  "  brave  lady." 
The  impudent  rodent  explored  my  legs  and  testeel  my 
nerves!  For  some  unknown  reason,  I  was  not  in  the  least 
excited,  only  surprised  and  anxious  to  know  how  to  rout  the 
enemy.  A  sneeze  did  it !  Throughout  the  voyage  this  rat 
was  a  constant   visitor  to  me,   and    I    became    attached  to  the 


Q 

5 


HO 


FOR     EAST     AFRICA. 


little  four-footed  friend,  nightly  placing  in  a  convenient  spot 
a  tidbit  for  his  refreshment.  He  never  molested  me  only  to 
manifest  his  presence  by  passing  his  rough,  coarse,  hairy 
paw  over  my  lace.  I  would  not  consent  to  have  a  trap  set 
to  capture  him. 


I'uKi  SAID  jF/rrv. 
The  atmosphere  was  particularly  clear ;  and  although  the 
stars  were  peerlessly  brilliant,  they  seemed  but  few.  Orion 
shone  marvellously,  and  one  began  to  mark  the  course  of  the 
vessel  by  the  starry  atlas.  Sighting  Dainietta  Light,  in  a 
little  over  an  hour  we  dropped  anchor  at  Port  Said,  a  coal- 
ing station,  before  entering  the  Suez  Canal.  Filled  with  an.xiety 
to  hear  news,  we  all  hung  over  the  side  of  the  vessel  watching 


24 


SUI.TAX     TO     SULTAN. 


the  boats  pull  up  from  shore,  when  a  messenger  brought 
me  a  cable  from  the  gallant  Capt.  Nelson  bidding  me  God- 
speed, and  other  lightning  flashes  from  beloved  friends  that 
were  like  heart-throbs. 

Port  Said  Jetty,  so  picturesque,  seemed  all  too  beautiful 
as  the  first  impression  of  the  strange  Arabic  town. 

The  tendency  of  invariably  overcharging  for  an\-  little 
article  one  desires  to  purchase  impressed  me  with  the  idea 
that  there  prevails  a  strong  Semitic  strain,  and  unless  a 
voyager  holds  out  for  fairness,  he  is  sure  to  be  the  victim 
of  extortion.  During  the  progress  of  some  purchases  the 
proprietor  of  the  quaint  shop  ordered  a  pot  of  Arabic  coffee, 
served  piping  hot  in  dainty  cups,  thick  as  pea  soup,  but 
most  aromatic  and  delicious.  The  Arabic  quarters  have  a 
most  villanous  aspect ;  not  a  place  one  would  select  to 
promenade    alone    during    hours    the    shops    might    be    closed. 

To  all  appearances  the  old  gambling  dens,  wherein  so 
many  outrages  were  committed  in  former  times,  have  been 
shut,  but  there  is  always  some  underhand  round-the-corner 
avenue  to  gain  access  thereto.  Nights  when  the  mail  steamers 
are  expected,  even  though  they  arrive  at  two  a.  >r.,  the  entire 
town  is  ablaze,  and  every  shop  or,  strictly  speaking,  bazaar 
is  open  wide  to  display  within  and  without  the  attractive 
goods.  Accompanied  by  some  one  who  is  well  up  in  the 
little  commercial  arts  and  tricks,  the  cost  of  local  specialties 
is  far  below  English  and  French  charges  for  the  same 
articles. 


no!       FOR     EAST     AFRICA. 


Lack  of  confidence  prevails  to  such  an  extent  that  even 
the  sheiks  in  charge  of  boats,  unless  paid  in  ailvance  by 
the  passengers,  accompany  them  to  see  that  the  boatmen  do 
not  filch  the  fees  or  pocket  gratuities.  The  coaling  barges 
stations  are  brilliantly  lighted  bv  cassolets,  blazing  with  their 
oil   or    resinous    beacons.       Each    steamship     company's    agent 


._ jiiii. 


ENTRANCE   TO   SUEZ    CANAL. 

arranges  before  the  arrival  oi  anj'  steamer  belonging  to  his 
particular  line  for  the  required  supply  of  coal,  and  on  its 
arrival  a  coal  barge  is  moored  alongside,  and  Egyptian  coal 
heavers  and  carriers,  wearing  only  a  meagre  loin-cloth  and 
head-pad,  carry  the  coal  in  baskets  up  a  slanting  plank,  with 
such  systematic  regularit)-  and  rapidity  they  reminded  me  of 
a  well-chain. 


26 


SUI.TAN     TO     SUl.TAN. 


There  is  a  total  absence  of  women  everywhere.  The  long, 
sjDOtless,  flowing  white  and  sombre  black  robes  of  the  men, 
their  picturesque  turbans  and  elaborate  sandals,  and  their 
infinite  grace  while  walking,  make  them  noticeably  effeminate; 
but  there  is  an  air  of  repression  or  secretiveness  in  their 
mien,  a  seeming  lack  of  honest  frankness,  which  forced 
upon  me  the  conviction  that  I  should  much  prefer  to  face 
these  Arabs  rather  than  to  have  them  follow  behind  me. 
Egyptian  and  native  laborers  make  the  line  of  distinction 
between  master  and  servants  unmistakable. 

If  a  steamer  is  not  fitted  with  electric  lights  before  being 
permitted  to  enter  the  .Suez  Canal,  the  requisite  apparatus 
must    be    hired    at    a    fixed  sum,  with  an    e.xpert    engineer   in 

attendance.  The  canal 
is  a  marvel,  especially 
when  one  considers 
that  it  was  projected 
under  the  reign  of 
Pharaoh  Necho,  600 
r>.  C,  whereas  De  Les- 
s  e  p  s  made  himself 
famous  by  renewing 
the  original  plan  in 
an  extensive  wa)-,  and 
by  this  water-way  be- 
tween the  Mediterra- 
nean and  Red  Seas  he 


BEnOUIX    CHTEF. 


HO  I       FOR     EAST     AFRICA.  2"] 

has  given  a  boon  to  the  commercial  world  almost  without 
parallel  ;  reducing  the  distance  from  London  to  India  from 
11,397  miles  to  7,628,  thereby  shortening  the  voyage  by  the 
Cape  thirty-six  days.  The  extreme  narrowness  of  the  canal, 
most  of  its  length  of  ninety-nine  miles,  makes  the  traffic 
somewhat  congested,  and  the  nearness  to  the  white  sand 
banks  at  times  painfully  glaring,  and  the  far-away  mountains 
cut  across  the  sky  in  ragged  peaks,  limiting  the  lateral 
horizon.  The  electric  lights,  displayed  on  the  ilotilla  of 
steamers,  lends  to  a  night  transit  a  weird  splendor.  The 
rule  of  navigation,  which  is  strictly  enforced  the  length  of 
the  canal,  obliges  steamers  in  sioht  and  all  following  farthest 
away  from  the  station,  when  two  or  more  approach  in  oppo- 
site directions,  to  tie  up  until  the  other  passes.  This  is  a 
great  trial  to  pilots,  as  it  exhausts  time  and  greatly  retards 
progress.  However,  it  is  an  absolute  law,  violation  of  which 
inflicts  a  heavy  penalty  upon  the  culprit,  and  is  impartially 
applied  to  all.  A  signal  from  the  station  approached  deter- 
mines the  right  of   way  for  all  vessels. 

At  Ismailia  we  saw  how  the  dredging  macliines  excavated 
the  bottom  sand  from  the  channel,  carried  it  in  a  long 
trench  and  heaped  it  upon  the  banks,  strengthening  and 
increasing  the  levees.  At  this  point,  scarcely  visible  in  the 
distance,  is  the  chalet,  built  for  the  Empress  Eugenie's  re- 
ception when  the  inaugural  Junctions  attending  the  opening 
of  the  canal  were  celebrated.  The  sight  provokes  the  thought 
of   the    downfall  of   an  Empire,    and    later    the    downfall    of   a 


28 


SULTAX     TO     SULTAN. 


man  who,  at  one  time,  was  on  the  pinnacle  of  fame  as  an 
engineer.  It  again  suggests  scenes  far  away  beyond  the 
BibHcal  days,  until  the  mind  loses  itself  in  contemplating  the 
wondrous  changfes  that  time  has  wrought. 

We  pass  an  Arab    camel    caravan,    and    for    the    first  time 
saw  women    unveiled.       One    woman,   whom    I    was    scanning^ 


ARAB    CAMF.I.    CARAVAN. 


through  my  field  glasses,  prior  to  taking  a  snap-shot,  glared 
at  me,  and  with  precipitation  jerked  up  from  the  banks  in  her 
arms  a  quaint-looking  little  dog,  cast  a  defiant  glance  towards 
me,  as  she  discovered  that  she  was  the  object  of  m)-  obser- 
vation, and  tossed  the  little  pet  upon  a  camel's  back  into 
a    saddle    made    like    a    nest   with    rugs    and    blankets,    and 


no  I      FOR     EAST    AFRICA. 


covered  it  from  my  evil  eye.  This  act  accomplished,  she 
rushed  to  the  water's  edge  and  followed  the  course  of  the 
slowly  moving  steamer,  imprecated  and  railed  at  me  in  the 
most  vehement  manner  —  about  what?  —  ah!  ask  the  Arabs 
who  heard.  This  cara\-an  was  bound  for  the  Holy  Land,  and 
a  set  of  more  villanous-appcaring  land  sharks  I  never  be- 
held. Unclean,  utterly  miserable,  degraded  beings,  knowing 
only  a  migratory  life,  in  common  with  their  camels  and  their 
vermin,  devoid  of  principle,  eking  out  a  questionable  exist- 
ence by  cunning,  extortion,  and  mendicancy.  Successions  of 
caravans  of  similar  character  occupied  the  foreground  of  the 
panoramic    scenes ;    some   were    laden  with  two    great,  square 


WATER    CARAVAN. 


30 


SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 


boxes,  balancinsf  each  other  on  either  side,  containing-  or 
beine  filled  with  soft,  fresh  water,  for  which  the  Arabs  would 
demand  from  pilgrims  or  travellers  a  fabulous  sum  during 
transit  across  the  sandy  deserts  en  route  to  or  from  the  Holy 
Land. 

.Suez  presents  an  architectural  appearance  of  a  substantial 
shipping  and  commerical  city.  The  background  of  mountain 
ranges  breaks  the  monotony  of  its  riatness,  and  lends  a  pleas- 
ing perspective. 


From  this  point  the  days  were  glorious,  and  the  choppy 
sea,  with  white  crests,  truly  grand.  A  hot  sun,  but  sprightly 
fanning  breezes,  a  steady  double-awning  ship,  were  winsome 
enough  to  make  the  Red  Sea  delightful.  A  greater  portion 
of  the  time  was  employed  in  overhauling  boxes  and  cases, 
separating  and  distributing  in  different  boxes  my  goods  for 
barter  and  personal  chattel  to  provide  in  case  of  loss  or  acci- 
dent.     All    this    required    an    arduous    amount    of    labor,   and 


HO  !      FOR     EAST     AFRICA.  3 1 

cost  an  expenditure  of  thought  and  foresight  in  arranging 
and  inventorying;  however,  it  was  by  far  tlie  safest  plan,  and 
I  was  well  pleased  in  the  end  to  have  had  the  opportunity  to 
act  upon  the  piteous  experiences  of  many  of  my  predecessors 
in  the  African  fields.  To  be  stripped  of  all  articles  of  barter, 
of  food,  medicine,  wearing  apparel,  and  photographic  appa- 
ratus, might  leave  me  stranded  at  a  moment  of  real  peril, 
necessity,  or  importance,  most  significant  to  the  accomplish- 
ment of  my  prime  object.  Somehow  the  more  I  dispassion- 
ately contemplated  my  venture,  reviewing  the  pros  and  cons, 
the  more  I  was  convinced  that  I  should  accomplish  something 
worth  the  greatest  hardships  and  indefatigable  output  of 
force  and  endeavor  requisite.  The  vo)-age  yielded  an  oppor- 
tunity to  acquaint  myself  with  weak  points,  which  had  pre- 
viously escaped  me.  I  could  composedly  formulate  vague 
ideas  into  distinct  shape,  and  prepare  for  possible  emergencies, 
and  fortify  my  health  and  strength.  It  was  like  gathering 
one's  self  up  to  enter  an  arena  as  a  combatant.  In  making 
classifications  for  my  future  work,  writing  out  leading  ques- 
tions, jotting  down  points  for  anthropological  and  ethnological 
observation  in  order  to  lose  no  opportunity,  when  once  in  the 
field,  of  probing  every  topic  to  the  heart  and  thrashing  out 
the  subjects  thoroughly,  gradually  I  discovered  in  myself  a 
latent  eift  for  organization.  Self- amazement  awaited  each 
effort  in  this  direction,  for  every  diverse  avenue  of  thought 
revealed  fresh  tributaries,  until  the  responsibilities  of  my 
project  aggrandized  beyond  all  the  limits  of  original  conception. 


32 


SUL1-A\     TO     SLT.TAX. 


After  all,  g-ood  work  is 
an  accretion  of  ideas 
put  into  effect.  It  is 
the  experience  of  every 
thoughtful,  earnest 
person  in  quest  of 
knowledge  in  new  fields 
where  there  is  no  pre- 
cedent   to   follow. 

The  sea  gradually 
assumed  the  color  of 
a  lovely  t  u  r  cj  u  o  i  s  e 
ith     thousands 


green,     w 

of    gleaming,     glitter- 
NATivE  DOBE  WOMAN.  ing    whitccaps,    and    the 

far-reaching  horizon  at  the  rim  ot  the  peerless,  spotless 
blue-giay  dome.  Porpoises  seemed  scarce,  although  certain 
darting,  phosphorescent  streaks  at  night  betokened  their  rol- 
licking presence.  Increased  heat  made  a  diminution  of,  and 
thinner  clothing  necessar)'  lor  comlort.  Mountain  ranges 
loom  up  on  the  African  and  Aral)ian  coasts;  Babel-Mambed 
is  sighted,  and  the  Straits  of  Aden,  called  by  the  sailors 
Hell's  Gate. 

Aden  is  calletl  Hell's  Ilarl)or;  one  can  scarcely  tell 
why,  unless  it  is  because  of  the  biuTiing  sands  and  the 
treacherous  coast.  It  was  night  when  we  dropped  anchor 
in    the  Gulf   of   Aden.       .Sjjectacular   wrecks    of  vessels    loom 


HO  !      FOR     EAST     AFRICA. 


33 


up  out  of  the  water,  suggestive  of  a  fierce  struggle  with 
the  elements,  and  as  a  phantom  warning  to  those  who 
course  that  way,  against  the  high  winds  and  insetting  sea 
which  prevail. 


^'iB.m 


^r^^mm^ 


34 


SULTAN    TO     SULTAN. 


CHAPTER   11. 


ADEN  TO  MOMBASA. 


tDEN'S  racrored  stone  cliffs  and  starinof,  burn- 

ing  white  sands,   unrelieved  by  vegetation, 

and    the    low-built    tropical     stuccoed 

houses,  the  mosque,  the  Parsee  temple, 

the     English    church,    the    hospitals, 

*'■"      combine    to   make    a    singular    but    not 

^'JK'»K— ■^*'-     attractive  picture. 

Somali  boys  are  naked,  except  an 
excuse  for  a  loin-cloth,  and  sometimes  a  long  piece  of  white 
sheeting,  which  they  utilize  for  all  manner  of  things, —  a 
head-wrap,  a  general  covering  when  they  lie  down  on  shore 
or  curl  up  in  their  boats,  or  wind  about  their  black  shiny 
bodies  as  they  pull  their  oars,  or  even  fasten  to  a  pole  in 
lieu  of  a  sail  to  catch  the  fitful  breezes.  Somali  men  are 
frequently  fine,  hardy  fellows,  and  move  about  with  a  native 
dignity  which  is  most  impressive;  the  few  women  to  be  seen 
are  not  as  a  rule  fine,  excepting  the  young  queen  of  Somali, 
who  rules  by  her  beauty  and  overbearing  tyranny  one  of  the 
most  desperate  tribes  of  Africa  ;  she  is  certainh*  fair  to  gaze 
upon.     A  marked   difference  in  the  shades    of   color    of    their 


ADEX    TO     MOMBASA. 


33 


skins  provokes  the  query  as  to  the  cause.  Well-to-do  .Somali 
men  ^vear  a  leathern  band  passed  through  the  centre  of  two 
valuable,  large,  knob -shaped  pieces  of  amber  around  their 
necks.  One  purchased  by  me  from  the  neck  of  the  wearer 
cost  ten  dollars  (two  pounds).  The  same  price  is  demanded  for 
a  new  one  at  the  shops.     Others  wear  leather  armlets,  through 


MOSQUE    .AT    ADEN. 


which  their  knives  are  thrust,  and  plain  leather  collars,  and 
even  long  strands  of  beads  interspersed  with  a  few  red  and 
yellow  ones  to  brighten  up  the  others.  Native  boy  divers 
swim  out  from  shore  and  float  about  the  anchored  vessels, 
soliciting  a  coin  to  dive  for,  and  utter  in  a  comical  shrill  way 
a    few    pigeon  English    words:     "  Laidee,    swimmee    bottom 


SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 


littee  monee."  They  dive  and  gambol  in  the  water  like 
porpoises.  When  Somali  boatmen  pull  their  oars,  it  is  to 
the  time  of  a  strange,  measured  plaint  in  a  falsetto  tone, 
whereas,  when  they  rest  on  their  oars,  drifting  or  tied  up, 
they  laugh  and  chatter  incessantly  in  a  loud  voice,  repeating 
over  and  over  the  same  words,  and  clapping  their  hands  on 
their  bare  thighs.      As  the  captain's  gig,  with   its  Indian  crew„ 

pulled  us  to  shore,  the  amphibious 
Somali  boys  surrounded  the  boat  and 
bore  us  company  all  the  way,  entreating 
us  for  coin.  A  few  whites,  Arabs,  Parsees, 
Egyptians,  and  Africans  from  every 
quarter  of  the  coast  and  islands,  Berber, 
Nubia,  Dinkili,  Galla,  Karthoum,  Soudan, 
Congo,  and  Somali  men  move  about  in 
these  seaports,  a  motley  throng,  adding 
a  quaint  interest  to  all  strangers.  Once 
settled  in  a  rickety  two-seated  cariole, 
drawn  by  a  well-cared-for,  fat,  tiny  little 
horse,  we  were  driven  by  an  old  Arab 
who  disported  an  abundant  pale-green  muslin  turban  sur- 
mounted by  a  plaited  straw  crown  cap,  a  long  striped  kansor 
trailing  to  his  feet  and  a  bright  yellow  cloth  sleeveless  jacket 
braided  with  gold,  his  hands  covered  with  rings  of  strange 
devices  ;  he  was  fat,  sleek,  odoriferous  with  a  blend  of  spices 
and  uncleanliness,  utterly  indifferent  to  the  comfort  of  his 
passengers,  his  sandals  occupying  the   front  seat    beside    him. 


MASAI    HEAD-DRESS. 


ADEN'    TO    MO^nUSA. 


Z7 


The  heat  and  flies  and  merciless  glare  of  sun  on  barren 
landscape,  to  say  nothing  ot  the  swirls  ot  dust  and  furnace- 
like air,  which  brought  whiffs  of  unknown  odors,  and  the 
stench  of  camels,  of  donkeys,  ot  sheep,  ot  people,  and  of 
towns,    made    the    outing    certain!)-    unpleasant,    if   a    novelty. 


The  principal    street  was 
very  tiny  creatures,  laden 
panniers    and    enormous 
at    a    very    quick    pace, 
here  little 
buffaloes, 
b  u  r  den, 
Said  ;  the 
most     re- 
transport,  and  with  their 
gallop    at    an    admirable 
with   bkick   faces  ;    sheep 
tails  clumped  upon  their  / 
plume,  —  the 
duced    b\'    cut- 
fleshy  part   ot 


crowded    with    donkeys, 

with  tremendous  double 

packs    travelling 

j4        There     were 

tawn  -colored 

used  as  beasts  of 

as    well    as  at   Port 

camel     seems     the 

liable      means      of 

hea\-y  loads  awkwardly 

rate  of  speed;  goats 

with     heavy     fat 

backs  like  a 

result  pro- 

■.' '  ting       the 

the  tail   and 


t  r  a  i  n  i  n  1/  the 


ABYSSINIAN    WARRIOR. 


clumsy  ap- 
pendage up  at  the  crup,  to 
keep  it  from  trailing  on  the  ground  ;  the  fleece  is  short  and 
not  abundant. 

A    most    extraordinary    apparition    of    a    human     creature 
loomed    upon    my  vision,  and    proved    to   be     a  woman,     the 


38  SULTA>f    TO    Sri^TAX. 

first  of  my  own  sex  I  had  beheld  in  the  town.  She  presented 
one  complete,  unvaried  mass  of  saffron  color.  Every  tone 
about  her  was  saffron  ;  her  body  was  tinged  saffron,  even  to 
her  feet  in  her  saffron-colored  sandals ;  her  gown  was 
saffron  ;  her  hair  saffron  ;  she  wore  quantities  of  amber  beads, 
and  promenaded  the  streets  unveiled.  This  fact  and  her  oddity 
incited  my  curiosity.  I  did  not  rest  until  I  gleaned  the 
reason  for  her  pronounced  jaundiced  appearance.  Briefly,  the 
government  regulations  provide  quarters  for  a  certain  debased 
class  of  women,  as  a  sanitary  protection  to  the  soldiers  there 
stationed,  and  this  saffron  color  is  enforced  upon  the  women 
habitants  of  these  quarters  as  an  insignia  of  her  nefarious 
but  authorized  calling. 

As  we  were  driving  away  from  the  commercial  town  centre 
towards  the  steep  hills  upon  which  the  marvellous  tanks  and 
gardens  are  situated,  built  by  the  English,  we  passed  the  fort 
built  on  the  steep  side  of  the  hill,  which  was  approached  by 
almost  perpendicular  stone  stairways,  most  difficult  of  ascent. 

The  architectural  formation  of  the  tanks,  or  water  reservoirs, 
is  most  eccentric  and  picturesque,  quarried  out  of  the  hard  gran- 
ite-like stone  structure  of  the  hills,  and  walled  up  by  similar  cut 
slabs,  cemented  so  as  to  make  the  tanks  water-tight,  ranged  at 
different  degrees  up  and  about  the  hills  in  the  most  irregular 
manner.  The  bald  rock  surfaces,  denuded  ot  soil,  ol  the 
declivities  make  the  downpouring  ot  water  comparatively  free 
from  earthy  particles  or  other  debris;  nevertheless  every  stray 
atom  accumulated  from  time  to  time  is  carefully   collected  and 


ADEX     TO     MOMBASA. 


39 


removed  from  the  basins  of  the  tanks,  and  used  to  improve  the 
made  gardens.  It  was  interesting  to  watch  corps  of  small  boys, 
under  the  direction  of  an  Arab  headman,  supplied  with  small 
baskets  which  they  carry  on  their  heads,  filled  with  the  scant 
debris  that  they  industriously  collect  out  of  the  empty  tanks,  and 


WATER    TANKS,    ADEN. 

transported  b)'  them  up  ladders  and  stairways,  to  deposit  upon 
the  artificially  made  flower  beds.  Although  the  work  certainly 
is  not  arduous,  yet  it  showed  that  the  children  are  not  idle ; 
and  the)-  were  as  happy  as  possible  while  at  their  work,  full 
of  childish  nonsense,  giving  vent  to  volleys  of  gleeful   laughter. 


40 


SULTAN    TO     SULTAN. 


-^^ssmm: 


The  water  is  all  sold,  and  doled  out  with  great  economy  to 
the  purchasers ;  there  are  some  private  tanks,  and  some 
leased  by  the  government  to  indi\iduals  or  companies.      Eleven 

months  had  transpired,  at  the 
time  of  my  visit,  since  the  last 
rainfall  had  filled  the  tanks,  yet 
there  was  abundant  water  to 
last  until  the  rainy  season,  and 
longer    in  case  of  drought.      It 


7 


^. 


35^ 


■i4 


'^ 


'SMMH-^ 


SON    OF   THE    MAHADI. 


is  a  current  story  that  Aden 
has  been  frequently  as  long  as 
five  years  without  rain.  I  was 
surprised  to  see  that  the  water 
showed  no  signs  of  stagna- 
tion; possibly  the  clever  man- 
ner of  cementing  every  crevice,  and  keeping  the  tanks  free 
from  vegetation,  combined  with  the  daily  evaporation  and  the 
nightly  heavy  dewfall,  may  account  for  this.  The  almost  per- 
pendicular steps  leading  to  the  various  serpentine  galleries 
bordering  the  tanks  were  difficult  to  ascend  and  descend,  for 
the  bluff  walls  of  the  aerial  narrow  passages,  with  a  narrow  foot 
tread,  and  the;  tiny  bridges  with  unrailed  platforms,  make 
one's  head  swim.  I  found  mysell  involuntaril)'  stretching  out 
my  hands  into  space,  eager  to  grasp  something  tangible  to  keep 
me  from  losing  my  balance  and  being  dashed  below.  Seeing 
my  predicament,  my  clear-headed  escort  bade  me  close  my 
eyes  and  rest  my  hands  upon   his   shoulders  whilst  we  slowly 


ADEN     TO     MOMBASA.  4I 

descended  ;  this  I  did  witli  ease  and  safety,  pausing  to  reassure 
myself  whenever  we  attained  a  more  spacious  platform.  Dotted 
here  and  there,  in  sequestered  nooks,  had  been  planted  a  few 
acacia  and  other  trees,  vines  and  flowers,  giving  a  welcome 
shade.  Here  were  usual))-  situated  water  wells,  with  quaint 
sweeps  to  u[jlift  the  water,  or  an  old-fashioned  bucket  and  rope. 
One  felt  inclined  to  peer  in  the  deep  shadows  for  a  Rebecca. 
Cooing  pigeons,  affrighted  by  our  presence  from  their  resting- 
places,  with  swelled  throats  and  ruffled  feathers,  uttered  a 
strange  noise  and  flew  wildly  across  the  open  space  ;  strange 
bulbous  flowering  plants  grew  out  from  little  crevices  almost 
devoid  of  soil.  They  appeared  like  wooden  vv'ater-jugs,  or 
water-skins  at  the  base,  then  abruptly  branched  out,  and  with- 
out supplementary  foliage  blossomed  into  one  or  two  waxy 
flowers,  pink  or  white,  which  emitted  a  subtle,  almost  sickening 
perfume. 

The  prevailing  drought  naturally  reduces  the  soil  to  a 
parched  state  of  barrenness;  not  a  fruit,  nor  a  vegetable,  nor 
flower  grows  throughout  the  town  in  the  open.  In  the  suburbs 
there  are  many  very  lovely  villas  facing  the  Gulf  of  Aden,  occu- 
pied by  the  prosperous  merchants  and  professional  residents, 
where  they  seek  respite  from  the  heat  and  moil  of  the  town,  and 
where  fishing,  yachting,  and  sea  bathing  are  the  principal 
attractions  and  divertisements. 

Driving  back  to  town,  I  noticed  children  on  the  roadside 
making  mud  cakes  and  mud  houses,  whilst  others  engaged  in 
a   game    with    stones,   something    like   draughts.       Somali  and 


42 


SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 


pedlers  of  other  nations  circulate  about  tlie  streets,  offering 
for  sale  shiekls,  seme,  or  swords,  ostrich  feathers  single  or 
in  lonor   tin  cases,    and  longr    feather    boas    and    little    baskets; 

however,  they  always  ask 
strangers  double  price,  and 
dog-  the  steps  of  those  who 
refuse  to  be  imposed  upon, 
lessening  the  price,  until  they 
voluntarily  accept  what  they 
can  get  from  the  customer. 

Aden's    market    place    was 
diseustine-     Arabs  and  Somali 
venders  squatting   on   their 
filthy  mats,  with  their  vegetables 
DELIGHT  OF  A  coRDOFAN.  aud  Iruits  all  about  them,  their 

bare,  dirty  feet  indiscriminatel)-  thrust  among  their  wares  ;  some 
crouched  in  front  of  iron  pans  placed  over  a  few  smouldering 
twigs,  or  over  smudgy  oil  lamps  in  which  they  cooked  poor, 
meagre,  dry  ears  of  corn  and  bananas.  The  quality  of  the 
fruit  offered  for  sale  was  wretched  ;  bananas  and  apples  ab- 
solutely rotten,  yet  they  found  purchasers.  Wood,  camel, 
sheep,  ami  goat  markets  presented  a  thoroughly  Oriental 
aspect.  The  wood  on  sale  consisted  of  great  scraggy  loads 
of  branchiuij  faTOts  borne  on  camels  or  mules,  which  would 
seem  to  be  on  the  verge  of  toppling  over.  When  the  loads 
were  sold,  the  camels  were  driven  into  the  camel  market, 
there  to  lie  down  or  feed,  whilst  their  drivers  sprawled  about. 


*■»  .rr-»  T  ■  i«  »  ■■  *?i 


ADEN     TO     MOMBASA. 


43 


smoking,  eating,  or  sleeping,  awaiting  some  chance  to  reload 
and  return  to  the  country,  or  an  opportunity  to  sell  the 
animals.  The  live  stock  seemed  well  fed  and  well  condi- 
tioned, as  in  fact  do  the  people.  I  only  observed  a  few 
miserable,  crippled,  or  blind  mendicants,  sitting  in  full  view  at 
the  entrance  of  the  markets  or  tunnels,  displaying  to  the  very 
best  advantage  their  hideous  diseased  bodies,  covered  with  tlies 
and  vermin,  to  which  they  seemed  insensible,  emitting  liorrible 
odors,  which  fill  with  discrust  the  nostrils  of  those  who  mieht 
be  charitably  in- 
clined. 

Fellah  woman 
wa  t  er-carriers, 
and  Arab  women 
sellinof  suijar-cane 
and  corn,  gave  a 
decided  local 
color  here  and 
there. 

The     tunnels. 


cut  through  the 
hills,  connect  the 
east  and  west  side 
of  the  peninsula, 
saving  considera- 
ble distance  in 
the    travel    across  fellah  water-carrier. 


44 


SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 


or  around  the  steep  hills,  and  are  fine  pieces  of  engineering- ; 
however,  so  low  studded,  they  are  scarcely  better  than  passage- 
ways. Strong,  sickening  odor  ot  camels  and  goats  passing 
through  Hnger  a  long  time  after  their  exit.     The  neck  of  land 

which  makes  Aden  a  peninsula 


Lit r.  /    L J^tiaaw"' 

AUVSjIXIAX    M,A\E    CHILlJl: 


is  remarkably  slender,  and 
almost  obliterated  when  the  tide 
is  flush. 

Many    of   the   Arab    houses 

are    strikingly    quaint,    covered 

Wk.  '  ;T   T      with    a  latticework    of    split 

bamboo;  occasionally  there  is 
a  rude  attempt  at  exterior  dec- 
oration, arabesques  daubed  on 
in  the  crudest  red,  yellow, 
blue,  black,  and  green,  without 
any  attempt  to  blend  the  colors,  and  it  produces  a  start- 
ling effect.  The  l^arsee  temple,  the  Hindoo  mosque,  the 
Christian  churches,  are  picturescjue  edifices.  An  obscure 
path  leading  to  the  Parsee  Tower  ot  .Silence,  which  is  erected 
on  the  top  of  a  steep  pinnacleil  hill,  filled  me  with  gruesome 
awe.  Xo  one  but  a  Parsee  is  ever  permitted  to  visit  this 
spot.  Debarred  as  1  was,  I  could  not  help  thinking,  and 
depicting  to  myself  the  spectacle;  there  on  the  top,  an  open 
tower  serried  with  stoni?  stretchers,  upon  which  were  laid  the 
dead,  exposed  to  the  ravages  of  the  elements,  and  ulti- 
mately to  be  devoured  by   filthy  carnixorous   birds,    it    seemed 


ADEN     TO     MOMBASA. 


45 


repulsively  uncanny.  Hindoo  burial  places  were  indicated  by 
heaps  of  stones  hardly  worthy  the  dignity  of  the  name 
Tumuli.  I^aubed  with  round  red  spots  at  the  corner  of  the 
heaps  of  stones,  fagots  were  planted  in  the  ground,  from 
which  floated  small  red  cotton  flags,  imparting  a  weird  and 
barbaric  impression  on  lirst  sight.  I  naively  queried,  when 
seeing  the  flags  from  afar,  "Are  they  holding  an  auction?" 
My  escort  bluntly  responded,  "  Yes,  a  devil's  auction." 
The  Mohammed  burial  ground  is  made  noticeable  by  the 
low,  arched  tombstones  upon  which  are  inscribed  a  quotation 
from  the  Koran,  whereas  the  English  "  God's  acre,"  a  very 
unpretentious  and  meagrely  occupied  spot,  had  wooden  and 
stone  head  and  foot  monuments. 

Along  the  roads  appear  enclosed  stone  and  wooden 
laniriiii,  lor  the  accommodation  of  the  people  as  they  journey 
to  and  fro,  for  they  have  a  decided  delicacy,  or  superstition, 
or  something  else  which  makes  them  reluctant  to  befoul  the 
earth  on    a  thoroughfare. 

We  saw  enormous  fish,  a  species  of  ray,  being  packed  on 
donkeys,  fairly  sizzling  beneath  the  direct  rays  of  the  sun. 
Arabs  carry  with  them  on  a  journey  a  cliarpoy,  or  a  portable 
folding  bamboo  latticed  straight  cot,  as  well  as  large  square 
chairs,  upon  which  they  curl  up  to  sleep,  and  use  for  stands 
to  display  their  goods.  Arabs,  .Somalis,  and  Indians  when 
weary  will  roll  themselves  up  in  their  cloths  and  lie  down 
amid  stones  or  on  the  hot  .sands,  and  sleep  peacefully  under 
the    blazing    sun    at    mid-day,    indifferent    to    human    comfort. 


46  SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 

The  blacks  will  stretch  themselves  out  naked,  with  only  a 
loin-cloth  when  the  sun  is  hottest,  their  black  skins  shining 
and  ^listening  as  the  heat  causes  the  palm  and  cocoanut  oil, 
with  which  they  are  rubbed,  to  ooze  out  at  everj-  pore. 
Whereas  the  white  man  avoids  the  direct  rays  of  the  sun 
when  suffering  from  fexer,  the  black  men  lose  no  opportunity 
in  submitting  to  such  as  a  curative  agency.  The  primitive 
.simplicity  of  these  tropical  people  is  largely  due  to  climate; 
they  get  along  with  so  little,  and  seem  in  admirable  condi- 
tion and  happ)-  as  the  da)-  is  long.  ]\Iy  stay  on  shore  did 
not  permit  me  time  to  look  into  the  methods  of  education, 
although  I  was  subsequently  informed,  on  reliable  authority, 
that  there  exists  a  governmental  supervision  over  the  chil- 
dren   and    a  compulsory  educational   law. 

Native  blacksmiths  work  on  the  roadsides,  making  a  tem- 
porary forge  wherever  their  work  happens  to  be.  The)-  handle 
their  tools  with  considerable  adroitness.  Egyptian  scissors- 
grinders  and  knife-sharpeners  form  a  very  picturesque  grouping. 
If  only  the  people  are  disposed,  they  can  get  plenty  of 
work  at  Aden,  for  it  is  such  a  great  shipping  port.  How- 
ever, there  seems  to  exist  a  great  aversion  to  manual  labor. 
Unless  absolutely  driven  to  do  so  by  pressing  need,  the  labor- 
ing classes  are  not  possessed  with  an  idea  of  bettering  their 
position  or  of  a  thrifty  provision  for  the  future.  They  seem 
content  to  live  and  die  in  the  circumstances  and  station  of 
life  to  which  they  have  been  born.  It  is  climatic  as  much 
as  aught  else. 


w 

Q 

3 
o 


D 

O 

a 
u 

X 

u 
< 


ADEN     TO     MOMBASA. 


47 


Er.VPTrAN    SCISSORS-GRIXDERS. 


After  the  drive  we  were  the  guests  of  Cowerjie  Dinshaws, 
the  celebrated  wealthy  Parsee  merchants,  whose  commercial 
house  is  the  rendezvous  for  every  one  coming  to  Aden.  A 
delightful  breakfast,  with  a  strange  and  varied  menu,  was  pre- 
pared, awaiting  our  arrival ;  and  singularly  enough,  the  host  did 
not  sit  down  at  table  with  us,  but  said,  after  seating  us  and 
about  to  retire  himself,  "  I  trust  you  will  do  justice  to  our 
house  by  making  yourselves  at  home."  A  Mussulman  served 
us.  He  was  a  fat,  wabbly,  bow-legged,  much-turbaned,  and 
scant-begowned    soul,    who    might    have    stepped    out    of   the 


48 


SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 


Arabian  Niehts.  Parsees  wear  the  most  delicate  and  sheer 
Indian  mull  oarments,  lonor  and  flowin*''  to  their  heels,  fastened 
with  gold  buttons.  Their  under  apparel  is  not  discernible 
beneath  the  shirt-shaped  overdress.  Their  feet  are  sandalled. 
Indoors    they  wear  a   silk    skullcap,  which    they  surmount    by 


NA'rivF.  iNris  oi-'   nikTERS. 


a  strange  black  enamelled  pot  hat  for  outdoor  wear.  Some 
of  the  enterprising  young  men,  who  travel  on  business  in 
other  countries,  adopt,  when  abroad,  European  costumes,  all 
but  the  hat.  Every  person  seemed  to  be  well  acqu.ainted 
with  m)'  plan  to  visit  East  Africa,  although  wide  of  the  mark 


ADEN     TO     MOMBASA. 


49 


<>,, 


m 


as  to  my  legitimate  motive,  and,  naturally,  had  many  comments 

to  make  and  much  gratuitous  advice  to  give.     Sir  Francis  de 

Winton,  who  had  been  stationed    at    Mombasa,  was  at  Aden, 

awaiting  the  steamer  for  England.      He  considerately  sent  me 

word   to  prepare    against    rain    if  I  was  going  to  the  interior, 

for    it    had    been    an    unusually  dry 

season,  and  it  was  more  than  likel)- 

to    be    followed    by    excessive    rain. 

He    also    marvelled  wh)'    I    did   not 

select  the  German  route  instead  of 

attempting     the    English.       Then    I 

did     not    comprehend    why,    but    it 

subsequently   became    obvious    that 

he    was    cognizant    of    the    decided 

opposition   that    awaited    me  on   the 

part    of    a    certain     official     in     the 

English  Company.     At  Aden  all  the 

current    gossip    and     news    of    the  iishiki. 

world  was  buzzed  about,  as  all  the  different  lines  of  steamers 

bound    for    India,    Ceylon,     Malta,     and    Africa    anchored     in 

the    port,    and    passengers    ha\-e    time    to    visit    the    town   and 

exchange  news. 

After  making  extensive  supplementar)-  purchases,  I  was 
quite  content  to  board  the  steamer.  My  Palanquin  was  much 
admired  by  Messrs.  Dinshaw.  The  senior  member  of  the 
firm  had  an  Indian  one  for  his  wife,  which  weighed  two  hun- 
dred pounds  ;  whereas  mine  onl)'  weighed  seventj-,  being  made 


^4   ^ 


\ 


5° 


SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 


of  rattan,  all  the  metal  mountings  of  aluminium,  the  linings 
and  fittings  yellow  India  silk,  the  cushions  of  down,  and  the 
awnines  ereen  canvas.  Had  it  been  more  cumbersome,  it 
would  have    been    impossible    to    have    transported    it    on    the 


'\1  M  I     IAMII.\. 


heads  or  shoulders  of  men   through  African    jungles,   swamps, 
over  mountains,  and  across  plains. 

In  reviewing  my  purchases,  arranging  and  familiarizing 
myself  with  what  my  possessions  consisted  in,  and  what  their 
uses,  and  where  they  were,  and  in  making  triplicate  in\en- 
tories,  I  discovered  myself  to  be  a  very  busy  indi\idLial,  with 
an  increased    realization    of   cares    antl    responsibility,  which    I 


ADEN     TO     MOMBASA.  5 1 

was  not  willing  to  shirk,  or  relegate  to  hirelings.  Undeniably 
the  heat  gradually  increased,  but  the  double  ship  awnings 
and  prevailing  tranquillity  prevented  great  discomfort.  When 
we  were  at  table,  one  of  the  deck  hands,  standing  out  of 
sight,  pulled  a  rope  through  the  sk\  light  by  which  he  swung 
the  punkah,  keeping  the  flies  from  harassing  us,  as  it  put 
the  air  in  gentle  motion.  Afternoon  naps  were  in  order,  as 
we  lolled  in  long  chairs  on  deck,  and  the  lazy  languor  of 
the  tropics  no  amount  of  inherent  energy  could  overcome. 
At  night  when  I  elected  to  write  in  the  cabin,  one  of  the 
ship's  hands,  usually  a  Malay  boy,  would  be  sent  to  fan  me. 
He  would  scan  me  with  curious  eyes,  but  never  say  a  word, 
nor  would  he  leave  his  post  unless  I  bade  him  do  so.  I 
would  frequently  leave  the  table  and  go  to  my  own  cabin  to 
get  some  necessary  article,  and  return  in  a  few  moments ; 
meantime  the  faithful  fellow  would  await  my  return.  One 
nieht  I  left  the  table  to  retire,  never  thinking  of  m\-  faithful 
comfort-maker,  when,  two  or  three  hours  afterwards,  I  chanced 
to  open  my  door  and  found  him  standing  fast  asleep,  with 
the  fan  grasped  in  his  hand,  awaiting  my  appearance. 

One  morning  at  the  breakfast-table,  where  we  were  all 
convened,  the  chief  engineer  addressed  the  captain, — 

"Captain,  I  don't  know  what  we'll  do  about  that  drunken 
rascal ;   he  seems  to  be  quite  beyond  my  control." 

The  captain  looked  up  with  a  degree  of  surprise,  and 
answered  brusquely,     "  I'll    take  that  in  hand  after  breakfast." 

The    whole    thing     struck     those     present     as     being     in 


52  SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 

violation  of  all  ship  discipline,  but  of  course  none  of  us 
made  any  comment,  and  the  general  chatter  resumed  its 
usual  frivolity  until  the  meal  was  at  an  end.  After  getting 
settled  in  ni}-  long  chair  on  deck  prepared  for  a  comfortable 
read,  the  captain,  considerably  flustered,  followed  by  the 
chief  engineer,  who  spoke  in  a  low,  though  excited  tone, 
rushed  into  his  cabin  and  seized  a  rattan  walking  stick,  and 
after  hastily  rushing  half-way  down  the  deck  to  the  hatch- 
way, he  abruptly  turned  around  and  came  towards  me,  looking 
the  very  picture  of   suppressed  anger,  and  burst  out    with, — 

"Mrs.  Sheldon,  look  here  a  moment;  I  would  like  to 
show  to  you  a  living  example  of  the  ingratitude  of  the 
fellows  we  captains  try  to  benefit.  For  example,  we  have 
on  the  ship  a  stowawa)',  whom  I  thought  an  honest  sort 
of  a  chap  when  he  was  discovered,  and  he  gave  something 
of  a  plausible  reason  for  his  trick  in  trying  to  get  a  free 
passage,  so  said,  '  Very  well,  m\"  good  fellow,  we  will  give 
you  employment  as  a  stoker.'  To  this  he  consented,  and 
went  on  all  right  for  some  days,  but  was  found  beastly  drunk 
last  night  while  on  duty,  and  do  or  say  what  the  engineer 
might,  he  has  kept  up  his  org)-  until  we  will  have  to  take 
stringent  measures." 

I  protested  that  I  did  not  care  to  see  a  drunken  man,  nor  be  a 
witness  to  any  chastisement.     However,  the  captain  persisted, — 

"  You  will    do  me  a    favor   by  coming  with  me." 

So  I  followed  him  along  to  the  hatchwa)',  where  were 
collected    all    the    other   passengers,    the    chief    engineer,  and 


ADEN     TO     MOMBASA. 


53 


several  of  the  crew,  hot  and  breathless,  appearing  as  if  they 
had  had  a  tussle,  and  curled  up  on  one  side  was  the  most 
dejected -looking 
specimen  of  hu- 
manity one  could 
possibly  conceive 
of.  His  limp  fig- 
ure was  drawn  up 
into  a  little  heap, 
his  head  hidden 
from  view  by  his 
arms;  a  large  pail 
of  water,  with  tow- 
els and  sponges, 
stood  hard  by, 
and  the  deck  all 
about  was  com- 
pletely deluged 
with  water.  Upon 
the  appearance  of  siimali  ijieen. 

the    captain    and    myself,  with    great    excitement   the  engineer 
exclaimed,  — 

"There's  no  use,  sir,  I've  tried  everything  to  sober  him 
up,  he's  a  cure.  I've  thrown  eight  or  ten  pails  of  water 
over  him,  all  to  no  purpose,  and  the  men  have  put  him  on 
his  feet  a  dozen  times,  and  he  has  as  often  dropped  in  the 
helpless    state    you    see    him." 


54 


SULTAX     T(J     SULTAN. 


The    captain    exclaimed,     "  I'll     make    short    work    ot     this 
business ";  and  his  cane    went  whistling    through    the   air  and 
unmercifully  fell    on    the    shoulders    of   the    poor  wretch. 
Involuntarily   I   exclaimed,  "  Oh,  don't,   Captain!   don't!" 
The  captain  glared  at  me  and    said,   "  Mrs.   Sheldon,   I  re- 
quire no  advice  in  carr)ing  out  discipline  on  this  ship." 

After  this  snubbing,  I  was  about  turning  to  leave,  feeling 
it  was  an  outrage  to  have  invited  me  to  be  a  spectator  to 
such  a  scene.  With  that  the  captain  raised  his  foot  and 
kicked  the  powerless  fellow  four  or  five  times  in  succession, 
all  the  while  .saying,  "Get  up!  get  up!"  and  I  was  tempted 
to  return  and  offer  one  more  protest  in  behalf  of  the  poor 
wretch,  when  the  captain's  heel  came  down  upon  the  man's 
head  with  a  sickening  thud,  and  the  skull  fairly  crushed 
beneath  the  violence  used. 

With     uncontrollable    horror    and    indignation    I    screamed 

out  to  the  captain,  as  I  started 
to  lly  from  the  spot,  "You  brute! 
you  brute !  Don't  ever  dare  to 
speak  to  me  on  this  \-oyage  ;  I 
shall  make  a  report  to  the  ship's 
compan)' !  ^'ou  are  not  fit  to 
command  a  vessel !  " 

Convulsed  with  laughter,  he 
sprang  round  and  seized  me  by 
the     arm,     and     all     the    others 

THl-     QUF.KN'S    SLAVE    WUMAX.  ^^''^'"'^        silUply      bcUt       doublc      with 


ADEN     TO     MOMBASA. 


55 


their  merriment,  and  to  my  humiliation,  I  saw  the  drunken 
man's  head  fly  through  the  air,  detached  from  his  body, 
a  bloodless,  lifeless,  empty  tomato  tin  !  This  effigy  of  a  man, 
after  having  served  to  tool  all  the  other  passengers,  who 
had  with  consistent  silence  kept  me  from 
the  knowledge  of  their  betrayment  in 
order  to  witness  the  effect  upon  me,  had 
gulled  me  completely.  It  can  well  be 
imagined,  after  having  left  no  loophole 
by  which  to  escape  in  my  crazy  denun- 
ciation of  the  captain,  what  a  pleasant 
day  I  had.  However,  some  time  later, 
when  we  were  swinging  at  anchor  in  a 
certain  port,  and  the  captain  had  given  on 
shipboard  a  dinner  to  the  English  residents,  whilst  the  even- 
ing's enjoyment  was  at  its  height,  the  chief  engineer  put  in 
an  appearance  and   said  with    professed    concern, — 

"  A  boatman  belonoino-  to  one  of  the  o-entleman  guests 
is  lying  in  a  perilous  position  on  the  ship's  rail,  and  I  am 
afraid    to    approach    him    lest    he    rolls    off   into    the    water." 

Aha,  Air.  Engineer,  my  time  had  come,  so  I  sang  out  in 
a  loud  tone  of  voice,  "  Mr.  Engineer,  had  you  not  better  take 
a  tin-opener  to  rescue  that  man  ?  "  and  he  disappeared  from 
sight.       This  time  the  laugh  was  on   him. 

At  Lamu  the  ship's  local  cargo  was  discharged  by  lighters. 
There  was  a  heavy  tide  sweeping  into  the  narrow  channel, 
and    the    rocky    and    sandy    coast    looked    most    treacherous. 


CHAGA    SNUFF-BOX. 


56 


SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 


Lamu  itself  was  not  an  inviting  spot  from  the  water  ap- 
proaches. The  scraggy,  gnarled  bushes  in  view  might  have 
been  dead  scrub-oak,  whilst  others    resembled    cacti. 

This  is  the  site  of  an  English  station,  and  at  this  time  quite 
a  bevy  of  important  men  connected  with  the  English  Company, 
who  were  preparing  to  make  an  official  tour  up  country.  Here, 
too,  is  stationed  the  original  of  Rider  Haggard's  "  Captain 
Good."  He  is  a  noted  sportsman,  bird  and  butterfly  collec- 
tor, as  well  as  treaty  maker  and  treaty  enforcer  for  the  English 
Company.  He  still  wears  the  storied  monocle,  and  is  most 
helplessly  near-sighted  if  by  any  circum- 
stance he  is  deprived  of  his  ocular  crutch. 

Rider  Haggard,  during  his  sojourn  at 
Lamu,  made  the  studies  for  "  .She,"  and 
obtained  the  local  color  with  which  his 
African  •  romances  glow. 

There  has  been  foimil,  in  making 
some  excavations  from  time  to  time, 
a  considerable  quantity  ot 
hand-painted  pottery,  cer- 
tainly not  of  African  origin, 
probably  of  Portuguese  or 
other,  which  ma)'  ha\'e  been 
looted     or    brought      thither 

b)-  voyagers,  buried,  as  everything  is,  for  safe-keeping  in 
Africa,  subsequently  forgotten,  or  for  divers  reasons  not 
reclaimed     bv      the      owners,    but     now      excavated,     to    the 


SUN    PROTECTORS. 


ADEN    TO     MOMBASA. 


57 


THE    SLAVE    DHOW. 

bewilderment  of  curio  collectors.  The  o-overnment's  attention 
has  been  called  to  the  fact  that  these  relics  were  being  carried 
out  of  the  country,  and  it  has  prohibited  further  removal  by 
the  passage  of  a  law. 

Some  of  the  native  iron  workers  in  this  vicinity  manufac- 
ture knives,  and  daggers,  with  ivory  handles  inlaid  with  gold 
and  silver  that  are  really  beautiful  from  an  artistic  point  of 
view,  although  it  is  with  great  difficulty  examples  can  be 
procured  in  any  number,  as  the  workers  are  most  unreliable, 
and  dilatory  beyond  the  limits  of  patience. 

The  long  stretch  of  sandy  coast  and  narrow  waterway, 
scarcely  more  than  a  creek,  leading  to  the  island  of  Seychelee 


58  SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 

and  Lainu,  are  not  in  the  least  imposing  or  attractive. 
Seychelee  has  affixed  to  it  the  extraordinary  tradition  of 
being  the  refuge  of  Adam  and  Eve.  Here,  too,  grows  a 
variety  of  cocoanut,  rare  and  higlily  vakicd.  Its  beach  is 
strewn  witli  bleached  human  skulls  and  bones,  to  mark  the 
ghastly  tale  of  a  deadly  encounter  between  two  hostile  tribes 
who  about  exterminated  each  other.  Some  time  since  a 
French  sailing  vessel  collected  a  cargo  of  these  bones  for 
commercial  purposes !  So  much  for  national  utilitarianism 
and  economy ! 

Very  quaint  dugouts  dotted  the  harbor,  equipped  with  long, 
awkward  outriooers  of  enormous  blades  like  sculls  which  bal- 
ance  the  crafts  as  the  natives  fish.  Such  black  fellows,  swathed 
about  with  what  was  once  white  sheeting,  cast  about  Avith 
eel-jigs,  baited  with  pieces  of  quivering  fresh  fish.  There  can 
be  no  sport  in  hauling  them  so  caught  out  of  the  water. 
These  fish  were  a  species  of  silver  perch  marked  with  coral 
stripes  all  over  the  body,   whilst  the  gills  were  tinted  red. 

Similar  st\"le  of  boats  put  out  from  shore  with  their  lilack- 
skinned  native  crew  in  quest  of  a  silver  bittin  from  unwary 
passengers  who  might  be  tempted  to  trust  themselves  to 
voyage  with  them  to  \isit  the  shore. 

When  the  captain's  gig  returned  from  delivering  the  mail, 
although  not  disconcerted,  I  was  far  from  being  pleased  \vith 
a  very  unsatisfactory  letter  from  Mr.  George  S.  Mackenzie. 
Despite  the  assurances  I  had  had  in  London  from  important 
men  in  the  directorship  of   the  Imiierial    British    East  African 


ADEN     TO     MOMBASA. 


59 


Company  that  everything  230ssible  uould  be  done  for  me, 
and  even  that  they  had  taken  the  trouble  to  cable  to  their 
representative  to  use  his  best  endeavor  to  procure  porters  for 
me,  this  gentleman  evidently  was  neitlier  interested  in  nor  in 
sympathy  -with  my  "  novel  enterprise,"  but,  to  the  contrar\-, 
absolutely  prejudiced  against  it. 

Like    a    flash    I    realized    that   without   doubt    he  would,   if 
he  could,   put  a  stop   to  the  affair,  believing,  as   he    did,  that 
my  advent    among    the    natives    in    the   English  occupation  of 
East  Africa  would   Incur 
altogether  too  much  risk 
upon    the    overburdened 
company.     \Vh)',  I  could 
not    imagine,    as     I     did 
not    ask,   nor   had   I  any 
intention    of     so    doincj, 
the    company   to    act    as 
my    sponsor,   or    to  con- 
tribute in  any  substantial 
way  to  my  personal  un- 
dertaking beyond  giving 
me  full    permission    to 
traverse    their    posses- 
sions, and  possibly  assist  vaki;u.\  lllli. 
and    advise    me    how    to    recruit    a    caravan.      Henceforward   I 
regarded  Mr.   G.   S.    Mackenzie  as  my  Obstacle,   silently  bear- 
ing    my     chagrin,    determined     to    quietly     make     my    own 


6o 


SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 


GKURGK    .s.    llACKKNZIi:. 


arrangements,  in  so  far  as  I  could,  without  his  knowledge  or 
counsel,  and  when  perfected,  proceed  with  or  without  his 
permission,  let  the  issue  be  what  it  might.  Strange  para- 
dox, in  the  end  matters  culminated 
so  that  to  this  same  Obstacle  I  owe 
a  debt  of  gratitude.  His  maddening 
opposition  developed  and  tried  my 
metal,  at  the  same  time  prepared  me 
to  encounter  serious  difficulties.  I  was 
convinced  that  it  would  be  imcompati- 
ble  with  prudence  to  attempt  to  start 
interior  with  a  caravan  until  the  rain 
came.  Enforced  patience  held  in 
check  my  impetuosity,  awarding  me  ample  time  to  perfect 
and    mature    my   mode    of   procedure    once    I    should    start. 

From  all  communicated  to  me,  it  was  an  open  secret  that 
the  Germans  were  carrying  everything  by  force  of  arms  and 
exercising  strict  military  discipline,  which  they  were  enforcing 
with  tyranny  upon  the  natives,  who  were  submitted  to  a  kind 
of  military  servility  they  had  no  prior  knowledge  of,  nor  any 
disposition  to  accept.  The  contrast  between  their  national 
ways  and  means  of  civilizing  and  colonizing  natives  and  that 
generally  maintained  by  the  English  is  extremely  obvious  and 
certainly  reprehensible.  Throughout  the  German  occupation  of 
East  Africa  on  all  sides  there  is  a  tooting  of  horns,  the  rat- 
tling of  guns,  the  salute  of  cannons,  all  that  belongs  to  the 
display    and  announcement    of    military   despotism    and    rule ; 


ADEN     TO     MOMBASA. 


6i 


liiKl     1:111.1     l:V    VASCO    DA    f;AMA,    SIXTEENTH    CENTURY. 

whereas  the  English  have  no  army,  no  naval  force  backing' 
them  to  liold  their  sway  over  the  natives  in  tlicir  occupation 
of  East  Africa,  and  it  is  but  a  question  of  time  when  the 
natives  will  voluntarily  yield  a  willing  homage  and  fealty  to  the 
English  government  which  the  Germans  aim  to  procure,  and 
only  exact  by  great  stringency  of  measures.  They  even 
conscript,  from  native  tribes,  soldiers  to  battle  against  their 
recreant  neighbor.'*  The  atmosphere  was  rife  with  general 
discontent  on  this  score.  It  may  possibly  be  that  some  of 
the  statements  have  only  a  figment  of  truth,  they  may  be  all 
true.     In     any    event    it   is   as    the    clown  from  a  ripe    thistle, 


*  Since  this  went  to  press,  h.ive  been  received  the  rumors  of  English  disturbances  at  Witu  and  Uganda. 


62 


SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 


and  was  flying  about  in  the  air  on  all  sides.  My  ears  were 
filled  with  the  unpleasant  statement  that  for  divers  reasons, 
in  harmony  with  the  arbitrary  policy  of  the  Germans'  reign 
and  rule,  they  would  not  permit  any  alien  Europeans  to  trav- 
erse their  East  African  occupation.  Alas  !  these  rumors  have 
a  mysterious  "  they "  that  no  one  can  give  individuality,  or 
name,  or  place  to,  and  this  "  they,"  during  my  sojourn  in 
East  Africa,  I  discovered  had  no  recognized  parentage,  no 
local  habitation  or  home,  but  was  a  bastard,  double-headed 
monster,  most  ubiquitous  and  slippery,  and  not  above  the 
most  petty  spites  and  jealousies.  Every  one  who  felt  uncertain 
as  to  the  origin  of  an  assertion  dodged  behind  "  they  said." 
I  had  to  be  patient  until  the  good  time  arrived  when  occa- 
sion was  given  to  test  the  veracity  of  the  distracting  hearsays, 
and  discovered  them  as  a  whole  distorted,  and  too  often 
worthless. 

The  picturesque  Fort   of    Mombasa,  built  in  the    sixteenth 
century  by  Vasco  da  Gama,  loomed  in  sight. 


MOMBASA     TO     ZANZIBAR. 


63 


CHAPTER    III. 


MOMBASA   TO    ZANZIBAR. 


E  approached  Mombasa  in  the 
sparkling  rays  of  a  tropical  sun. 
It     seemed     most     strange     and 

o 

unlike  any  harbor  I  had  ever 
seen.  It  was  very  diffi- 
cult to  navigate,  not 
being  properly  marked 
\  by  buoys,  but  in  a  most 
;,  idiotic  way  the  pilot 
must  steer  in  line  of  a 
pole  no  thicker  than  a 
bean  stalk  to  get  a  course  between  two  pillars  no  larger 
than  a  good-sized  oar  planted  on  shore.  The  channel  is  at 
best  narrow  and  interspersed  with  sand  bars,  consequently 
nearly  every  steamer  going  into  this  port  runs    aground. 

There  was  a  great  commotion ;  all  the  everybodies  and 
nobodies,  white  and  black,  hallooing,  gesticulating  in  an 
e.xcited  manner,  while  rushing  along  the  shore,  leaping  from 
rock  to  rock,  the  natives,  of  course,  in  such  a  majority  that 
the  white  men  appeared  most  conspicuous.       The  old    Porta- 


64 


SULTAN     TO     SULTAW. 


cocoAxrr   flantaiion,   m(>m}:asa. 


guese  fort  and  the  low  native  huts,  thatched  with  cocoanut 
leaves,  and  huddled  together,  were  more  interesting  than 
attractive  places  of  abode.  Certain  landmarks  are  conspic- 
uous. At  last  the  Imperial  British  East  Africa  Co.'s  agent,  the 
ship's  agent,  and  all  the  usual  crowd  which  throng  an  incom- 
ing steamer  in  these  ports,  pushed  off  in  boats  and  came  on 
board  ;  and  one  who  for  the  moment,  in  the  absence  of  Mr. 
G.  S.  Mackenzie,  was  the  representative  of  the  I.  B.  E.  A.  Co.'s 
interest,  came  on  board  to  see  me,  and  commenced  a  long 
harangue  about  the  impossibility  of  the  company's  officers 
procuring  for  me  even  one  porter  for  my  inland  journey;   and 


MOMBASA     TO     ZANZIBAR.  65 

in  the  course  of  his  conversation  he  revealed  to  me  the  one 
prevaihng  fact  that  my  Obstacle,  Mr.  G.  S.  Mackenzie,  did 
not  approve  of  my  presence,  and  denounced  my  undertaking. 
Then  followed  a  long  dissertation  as  to  the  popular  idea 
of  ni)-  insane  undertaking.  This  courteous,  much-hampered 
envoy  appeared   completely  cut  up  when  I  calmly  inquired, — 

"  What  do  the  officers  of  the  I.  R.  E.  A.  Co.  suppose 
I  want  of  them,  that  I  am  not  prepared  to  get  without  their 
assistance?  I  require  no  financial  aid,  and  I  have  already 
obtained  permission  from  those  in  authority  in  England  to 
pass  through    the  English  territory." 

He  looked  perfectly  abashed  for  a  moment,  then  graciously 
put  himself  at  my  disposal  in  so  far  as  lay  in  his  power  as 
a  gentleman,  although  as  an  officer  he  was  utterly  powerless 
to  act. 

Many  of  the  posts  occupied  b\-  white  men  in  the  English 
and  German  possessions  are  too    insignificant    to    be  deemed 

desirable,    unless  through  ^---li^ — ~^^  .^ ""^  i 

some  concealed   or    some  (_  ,-  W^^     V,;!* 

ulterior  end  or   aim    they   ^^  i^-^  .jj. ./  -^L^.^.^— 

are  sought  as  a  matter  of  h.\nd  showing  rings  for  gifis. 

personal  eccentricity.  It  can  be  imagined  that  a  man  of  activi- 
ties, who  enjoys  freedom,  and  possesses  a  natural  propensity 
for  leadership,  should  desire  to  break  awa)'  from  the  narrow, 
cloying  environments  of  civilized  society,  with  all  of  its  set 
rules,  conventionalities,  shams,  and  cant,  for  just  such  a  life 
as  one    might  find    in  Africa.      Had    I  visited    East    Africa    to 


66  SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 

Study  the  anthropology  and  ethnology  of  the  white  man,  in- 
stead of  the  native  races,  I  have  no  doubt  the  research  would 
have  afforded  novel  results.  However,  my  curiosity  became 
keener  and  keener  to  study  the  native  Africans,  and  I 
was  most  eager  to  get  fairl\'  at  m\'  work.  All  the  volun- 
teered advice  and  hints  proffered  on  all  sides  I  was  quite 
prepared  to  accept  as  stock  in  trade,  which  might  redound, 
by  judicious  application,  to  my  ultimate  success.  In  such  a 
country  as  Africa  one  must  have  physical  force,  health,  and 
endurance,  as  well  as  strong  mentality,  in  order  to  get  and 
hold  control  over  the  natives,  in  order  to  command  with  the 
power  to  govern  one's  porters.  Better  mysterious  silence 
when  one  is  in  doubt,  than  awkward  indecision  or  a  displaj* 
of  blunders  and  a  confession  of  deficient  knowledge.  It  is 
not  a  country  for  half-tones  or  vacillation,  at  least  not  while 
the  natives  are  in  their  present  state  of  civilization.  The 
fact  was,  it  was  feared  that  the  consequences  of  a  woman's 
leading  a  caravan  might  throw  the  natives  into  a  frcnz)-,  bring 
difficulties  about  which  would  involve  the  I.  B.  E.  A.  Co.  in 
trouble  and  expense  to  come  to  my  rescue. 

The  Frere  Town  mission  people  came  to  take  me  to  the 
lovely  spot  which  overlooks  the  entire  Bay  of  Mombasa,  on 
which  is  erected  their  mission  houses.  The  native  crew  were 
dressed  in  the  usual  length  of  unbleached  body-cloth,  bor- 
dered with  a  red  stripe  and  a  loose  woven  shirt.  The  gen- 
tleman who  escorted  me  quite  agreed  with  me  that  it  would 
be    a    mistake    to    replace  the    natives'  present  style  of   dress 


MOMllASA     TO     ZANZIBAR. 


67 


.ARAB    OIARTF.RS,    Mn.MBASA. 


by  European  iashions,  and  }et  he  confessed  it  would  be 
most  difficult  to  check  the  tendenc)',  as  the  home  societies 
were  all  the  time  sending  out  made-up  articles  of  clothing, 
especially  for  the  girls  and  women,  that  Avere  totally  unsuit- 
able for  their  position  or  the  climate  ;  and  the  good  creatures, 
zealously  devoted  to  the  propagation  of  the  gospel  among 
the  heathen,  were  constantly  making  requests  that  the  con- 
verts in  the  mission  should  be  clothed  with  Christian  decency. 
He  frankly  averred  that  no  one  could  possibly  know 
without  living  in  the  climate,  studying  the  necessities  of  it, 
and  looking    into    the  habits   of   the    people,   how  utterly  pre- 


68 


SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 


posterous  are  these  modern  innovations.  However,  he  made 
an  exception  in  the  case  of  the  best  educated  native  men 
who  were  teachers,  saying  that  "  European  clothing  seemed 
to  set  well  upon   them." 

After  landing-  I  was  taken  up  to  what  was  called  the  Ladies' 
House,    Bishop    Hannington's    old    residence,     and    here    was 


DATE    PALM. 


MOMBASA     TO     ZANZIBAR.  69 

cordially  received  and  entertained  by  the  ladies  of  the  mission, 
shown  about  their  institution,  allowed  to  inspect  the  work 
taught  to  the  girls,  visited  the  school,  and  was  presented  to  the 
leading  man  in  the  work,  Mr.  Binns.  Having  been  told  that 
Mr.  Mackenzie  had  incidentally  said  that  Mr.  Binns's  opinion  of 
my  expedition  might  lie  considered  with  gravit)-,  my  desire 
was  to  convince  Mr.  Binns  of  the  plausibility  of  my  plans. 
He  perfectly  agreed  with  me  that  success  would  attend  my 
efforts,  if  I  set  to  work  properly.  After  explaining  my  aim 
to  mingle  much  with  the  native  women  and  children,  I  asked, 
in  order  to  facilitate  the  work,  if  he  could  supply  me  with 
woman  interpreters.  .Such  a  thing  had  never  been  thought 
of,  nor  ever  before  required,  and  he  evinced  great  astonish- 
ment and  was  decidedly  disconcerted  when  I  persisted,  saying, 
"Certainly,  in  an  old-established  mission  like  this,  there  must  be 
among  the  pupils  women  or  girls  capable  of  interpreting." 
Finally  he  imparted,  in  an  evasive  way,  his  opinion  that  the 
mission  girls  would  have  a  disinclination  to  go  on  safari 
(journey),  and  mix  with  the  rest  of  the  caravan,  besides  they 
would  not  e.xpect  to  carry  even  their  own  budget ;  further- 
more, that  their  education  was  directed  towards  making  them 
teachers  in  behalf  of  the  mission,  and  not  to  acquire  money 
in  secular  service.  This  revealed  to  me  the  utter  impracti- 
cability of  their  methods  of  religious  training.  Such  edu- 
cational discipline  must  necessarily  undermine  their  self-reliance 
and  leave  the  imprint  of  irresponsibility  upon  the  native 
pupils.     The   woman    missionary  workers   happily    are    not    so 


70 


SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 


much   swaged  by  supercilious  sentiments,  and  with  an  amount 
of   practical    common-sense    seem    to     realize    that    all    natives 

rescued  from 
slavery  by  the 
mission  have  not 
b  )•  nature  the 
a  1 1 1  i  t  u  d  e  -which 
makes  them  eliofi- 
ble  for  teachers. 
These  women 
are  tr\-ino-  to  in- 
troduce  simple, 
useful  industries, 
such  as  Zanzibar 
mat  braiding, 
and  have  taken 
contracts  from 
a  com  m  e  r  c  i  a  1 
house  for  strine- 


SOUDANESF,    WARRIORS. 


ing  barter  beads,  besides  teaching  them  to  sew.  The  boys 
are  mainly  instructed  in  Arabic,  Ki-.S\vahali,  and  English; 
whicli  tits  them  as  porters  and  interpreters,  but  so  inefficiently 
that  the  mission  boys  are  the  horror  of  most  caravans,  and 
they  apply  the  precepts  of  their  religious  training  as  a  cloak 
for  all  their  shortcomings.  If  a  lamp  is  broken  by  one  of 
ihem,  or  anything  is  lost,  or  a  misdemeanor  committed,  when 
taxed  as  to  wlio  did   it,  with  nai've  sacrilege,  not  knowing  what 


MOMBASA     TO     ZANZIliAr<. 


71 


it  means,  it  is  common  to  hear  them  exclaim,  "Jesus  chd  it." 
And,  if  reprimanded,  the)'  reiterate  \vith  some  degree  of  logic, 
"  Dio  Bwana,  Jesus  did  it.  jesus  died  to  save  sinners  —  me 
mission  boy  —  Jesus  did  it."  This  does  not  represent  an 
isolated  circumstance,  but  accords  with  the  experience  of 
numerous   travellers. 

.Since  my  visit  to  East  Africa,  Rev.  Dr.  Stewart,  celebrated 
as  the  founder  of  the  Livingstone  mission,  assisted  by  Dr. 
Moffat  (Livingstone's  nephew),  through  the  instrumentality  of 
half  a  dozen  .Scotch  philanthropists,  has  established,  about 
two  hundred  and  fitly  miles  from  the  east  coast,  an  industrial 
mission  on  the  most  practical  lines.  He  aims  to  teach  the 
natives  some  craft  or  avocation,  according  to  the  trend  of 
their  minds  and  physical  capabilities,  which  will  fit  them  to 
fill  the  existing  demands,  or    those  which  may  be  created,   of 

the    country,  and    not   such    as   will 
have  no  outlet.      It    is    but    just    to 
declare  in  favor  of  the  medical  men 
who     go     out     to    uncivilized  lands, 
either    under    secular    or    religious 
auspices,    that    they    are     truly    the 
most    devoted,    abnegating    adjuncts 
to  class  or  church,  and 
^^^  if   so  disposed,  can  ex- 
ercise   the    most   bene- 


SNUFF-BOX,    STUDDED    SILVER,    MEIAL    CHAIN, 
WA-CHAGA. 


ficial    influence    towards 
the      amelioration     and 


72 


SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 


progress  of  the     natives.     The     women  and  girls   are   clothed 
in  white  cotton  dresses,   made  like  a  chemise,    bedecked  with 

a  T  11  r  k  e  )'  -  r  e  d 
stripe  around  the 
skirt,  low  neck 
and  short  sleeves. 
Most  of  them 
have  their  ear 
lobes  distended 
to  an  accepted 
size  by  a  paint  id 
method  of  intro- 
ducincr  graduated 
plugs ;  then  they 
wear  as  an  orna- 
ment leaves  of 
)•  o  u  n  g  pal  m  s 
coiled  very  tight- 
1\-    and    trimmed 


AkAl'.    WClMW 


1,1  m;  i;an'axas   lo  porter. 


so  as  to  display  the  white  veining  that  runs  through  the 
centre  of  the  leaf,  which  makes  a  spiral  and  looks  very 
pretty.  Some  of  the  grander  natives  disport  fine  brass  ear 
ornaments.  They  are  permitted  to  wear  their  bead  neck- 
laces and  bracelets.  The  girls  who  have  not  their  hair 
shaven  tight  to  their  head  coiffure  it  in  an  elaborate  and 
intricate  fashion.  It  is  impossible  to  comprehend  how  they 
can    braid     it    in    such    an     endless     variety    of    patterns,     so 


MOMBASA     TO     ZANZIHAR. 


73 


O  O  Q 


'=y.      « 


f=^=P 


neatly  and  closely  to  their  heads,  in  tiny  flat  plaits,  each 
strand  pressing  close  against  the  scalp  at  ever)'  turn, 
and  not  in  long  pendent  strands.  All  of  the  girls  and 
women  are  splendid  boat-women,  and 
manceiure  their  ugly,  heavy,  awkward 
canoes  with  a  skill  equal  to  the  boat- 
men. They  eat  squatting"  on  the  ground 
or  at  a  long  table  with  their  wooden  or 
metal  basins  before  them  filled  with  por- 
ridge, which  they  gather  up  with  their 
fingers  and  roll  into  a  ball  and  stuff 
into  their  mouths  in  the  most  piggish 
way.  Not  only  does  this  habit  obtain 
with  the  children,  but  adults  eat  in  the 
same  manner.  It  seems  to  afford  an 
imfaxorable  commentary  on  the  methods 
of  education  employed.  Their  dormito- 
ries are  of  the  rudest  kind,  —  a  long 
shanty  or  room,  where  a  certain  number 
of  eirls  and  women  are  alloted  a  lone 
trestled  couch,  the  spaces  divided  for 
each  occupant  by  mats ;  but  there  is  no 
attempt  to  provide  that  order  of  privacy 
which  develops  the  refinement  of  civil- 
ized decency.  As  a  rule  they  eat  one 
meal    daily,  when     they    stuff   themselves  gourd    sxuff-bo.k,  stud- 

.  ,•  .•  1     ^-  TTTi  ,  DED   SILVER  AND  CARVED 

to  disgustmg   repletion.     Whenever   they    p^^-terns,  wa-chaga. 


0      1 


0  0  o  C  o'cO  o  "  J 


*    '0  0  0  SC 


74 


SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 


can  o-et  fruit  they  munch  it  at  all  times,  and  drink  to  their 
detriment  fermented  cocoanut  milk,  called  tembo,  upon  which 
they    frequently  become    intoxicated.     This  does  not   so  often 

occur  in  the  mission  as 
in  the  freer  life  outside. 
The  bread,  alike  for  the 
whites  and  blacks,  is 
raised  with  tembo 
yeast.  The  mission 
people,  being  c  o  n  - 
vinced  that  it  creates 
an  appetite  for  drink, 
try  to  supply  for  their 
own  followers,  as  well 
as  those  in  the  vicini- 
t)-,  bread  raised  with 
other  yeast.  The 
women  pound  the  corn 
and  millet  in  stone  and 
wooden  mortars,  with  a 
c  ]  u  m  s  )•  \v  o  o  d  e  n  or 
stone  pestle.  Mothers  bear  their  babes  suspended  in  a 
cloth  upon  their  backs  whilst  pounding  the  grain,  without 
evincing  any  fatigue.  I  asked  one  woman  why  she  did  not 
put  the  little  one  down  whilst  at  work.  She  looked  puzzled 
for  a  moment,  then  smiled,  and  pointed  to  an  ant  hill,  thrust 
her  fingers  into  her  mouth  and  caressingly  touched  her  baby. 


ARAB    I'.LIN'II    REGGAR. 


MOMIiASA     Tn     ZANZIBAR. 


75 


Inspired  by  a  secondary  thought,  she  swayed  her  body  in 
a  rocking  manner  and  ciooned  out,  "La-la."  Her  first  pan- 
tomime simply  indicated  that  she  feared  her  babe  might  be 
eaten  by  the  voracious  ants  ;  the  second,  that  the  monoto- 
nous rocking  motion  whilst  she  pounded  the  grain  put  her 
infant  to  sleep.  Soon  as  the  children  are  weaned,  they  are 
placed  in  a  special  house,  to  which  is  attached  a  circular 
cemented  playground,  where  they  are  daily  amused,  cared 
for,  and  taught  by  a  native  woman  until  able  to  attend  the 
schools.  The  maternal  wisdom  displayed  by  the  lad)'  mis- 
sionaries in  the  employment  of  a  native  mother  teacher  is 
beyond  question,  for  she  could  know  at  once  the  little  one's 
ailments  and  administer  some  simple  native  medicine ;  she 
could  learn  better   than    a    white    woman  its    little    grievances 

and  soothe  them.  Then,  too,  she 
is  infinitely  better  adapted  to  under- 
stantl  what  would  best  amuse  the 
little  ones.  The  custom  should  be 
emulated. 

On  the  ^Mombasa  wharf  and 
shore,  hosts  of  nude  boys  and  girls 
were  plunging  into  the  water  irom 
the  framework  of  a 
pier  over  seventy  feet 
high,  giving  vent  to 
hilarious  shouts  of  de- 


SNT'FF-l'.OX,    ST'JDDED    SILVER,    MEFAL    CHAIN, 
WA-CAHGA. 


lieht     and     vving^    with 


76 


SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 


each  other.  They  dive  feet  down,  and  are  most  expert  swim- 
mers. Respecting  the  amphibious  traits  of  the  natives  in 
Africa,  an  English  officer  exploits  the  fiction  that  some  ante- 
cedent of  tlie  African  race  was  crowded  off  the  ark  and  had 
to  swim  or  drown. 

Noticeable  on  the  shore  were  women  and  boys  of  the 
Wanyki  tribe,  presenting  the  most  extraordinary  distortion  of 
the  abdomen,  which  they  esteem  a  great  beauty.  The  abdo- 
men is  bulging  and  rotund  and  like  a  lesser  dome  upon  a 
larger  dome  ;  the  umbilicus  has  been  distended  by  artificial  in- 
flation during  infancy  to  the  size  of  a  tennis  ball.  I  was  per- 
mitted to  witness  the  abnormal  operation.      Many  of  the  women 


MOMBASA     TO     ZAiNZIBAR. 


n 


wear  kilted  skirts  of  common  dark  blue  muslin,  seldom  over  a 
foot  long.  Such  a  jumble  of  white  men  and  total  absence 
of  white  women  can  hardly  be  conceived  of;  no  man  seemed 
to  be  in  the  place  that  he  was  fitted  to  occupy,  yet  he  had 
signed  a  three  years'  iron-bound  contract.  Some  of  these  men 
were  refined  and  highly  educated,  from  the  great  centres 
of  the  world ;  fired  by  ambition,  stimulated  by  a  desire 
to  enlarge  their  horizon,  they  had  sought  these  openings, 
scarcely  realizing  the  deprivations  incumbent  upon  their 
posts  and  the  monotony  thereof.  Others  were  volunteers 
from  the  humblest  ranks  of  life.  Unfortunately  there  are 
no  white  women,  apart  irom  the  tew  woman  missionaries  ; 
hence  these  men  are  thrown 
promiscuously  together  and 
too  much  upon  their  owm  re- 
sources, and  the  customary 
habit  of  taking  "  pegs "  — 
brandy  and  soda  or  whiskey 
—  in  the  course  of  time,  in 
too  many  instances,  enervates 
alike  the  constitution  and 
character,  although  many  of 
the  men  become  so  inured  to 
the  habit  they  never  are  the 
slightest  bit  maudlin.  Of 
those  eentlemen  whom  I  met 


on  the  coast  and  elsewhere  in 


ABVSSIN'UX    SL.-iVE   GIRL. 


78  SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 

East  Africa,  I  must  proclaim  that,  with  few  exceptions,  they 
acquitted  themselves  in  a  most  manly  way,  and  extended  to  me 
upon  every  occasion  offered  the  greatest  courtesy.  It  was 
touching  to  witness  their  efforts  to  entertain  me  under  trying 
conditions,  so  devoid  of  outside  resources,  far  away  from  marts, 
and  how  they  ransacked  their  meagre  stores  to  get  little  deli- 
cacies, and  how  earnestly  they  hunted  to  bring  in  a  bit  of 
choice  game.  They  were  to  a  man  on  their  best  behavior, 
and  put  their  best  foot  forward  in  extending  the  amenities 
refinement  prompted.  They  did  all  they  could  for  my  com- 
fort and  convenience.  Men  never  could  have  been  more 
charming  nor  more  circumspect  in  their  deportment.  Occa- 
sionally, when  as  my  guests  on  safari,  they  would  accompany 
me  for  a  day  or  so,  their  good-natured  acceptance  of  my 
leadership  and  willingness  to  accede  to  my  arbitrary  rule  of 
camp,  and  order  of  march,  proved  them  to  be  well-bred  men 
and  admirable  disciplinarians.  To  these  gentlemen,  none  of 
them  I  regret  to  say  of  my  own  nationality,  I  desire  to  make 
public  acknowledgment  of  heartfelt    appreciation. 

There  were  the  usual  friction  and  dissension  belonging  to 
occupants  of  newly  defined  posts  in  a  new  enterprise,  with  the 
tendency  to  revolt  against  conditions.  In  due  course,  with 
experience  gained  by  the  directors  as  well  as  the  men,  these 
crossgrained  things  will  modify  themselves. 

I  went  on  shore  to  visit  the  quaint  old  fort,  which  is  a 
superb  ruin,  and  has  a  fine  outlook  towartl  the  sea,  and  gives 
one  a  bird's-eye  view  of  Mombasa,  with  the  native  huts  huddled 


MOMllASA     TO     ZANZIBAR. 


79 


NATIVK    WARRICJRS. 


as  close  together  as  possible,  with  their  quaint  cocoanut  roof 
thatchings.  Here  I  had  pointed  out  to  me  my  first  line  of 
march  away  from  the  English  settlement  that  I  should  take 
if  I  went  away  from  the  coast.  The  fort  was  occupied  by 
Capt.   Rogers,  who    commands   a  troop  of    sepoys    loaned    by 


8o 


SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 


the  government  to  the  British  East  African  Company.  In 
the  fort  quarters  there  were  some  Arabs  stationed,  who 
disported  magnificent  studded  cutlasses  and  belts,  as  valuable 
as  they  are  beautiful.  They  are  worn  thrust  into  the  belt  in 
front.  Leaving  the  fort,  my  attention  was  called  to  the 
superbly  carved  doors  and  lintels,  which  are  evidently  of 
Portuguese  and  Persian  origin,  forming  the  entrances  to  tumble- 
down buildings.  The  streets  were  quaint,  circuitous  passage- 
ways. The  ivor)'  custom  house  possessed  considerable 
interest  to  me,  as  the  bids  were  given  and  accepted  by  a 
Parsee  commissioner,   in  order  to    appraise    the    value    of    the 

tusks,  and  assess 
duties.  A  scribe 
cut  little  Arabic 
l1  e  s  i  g  n  s  upon 
each  tusk  valued 
and   passed. 

An  excursion 
was  arranged,  to 
my  delight,  to 
take  me  over 
the  seven  miles 
and  a  half  tem- 
poraril)'  laid  of 
the  Victoria 
Nyanza  Railroad, 
SOMALI  wAKRioKs.  mooted     as    the 


MOMBASA     TO     ZANZIBAR. 


8i 


greatest    of     all     benefactions     for     East    Africa    when     once 
completed. 

I  was  greatly  chagrined  to  be  informed  that  there  was  not 
to  be  hired  a  single  porter  at  Mombasa  ;  so,  after  meeting  and 
discussing  my  open  plans  with  my  Obstacle,  whom  I  finally 
succeeded,  by  diligent  argument,  in  convincing  that,  despite 
his  intense  prejudice  to  my  j^roposed  undertaking,  at 
least  I  very  decidedly  had  considered  its  magnitude,  the 
personal  risk  involved,  and  the  immense  liability  incurred,  he 
seemingly  became  my  advocate,  and 
so  far  consented  to  my  application 
for  permission  to  go  through  Eng- 
lish territory  as  to  say,  "If  you  can 
form  a  caravan  at  Zanzibar,  I  will 
put  no  barriers  in  )-our  way."  I 
mistrusted  it  mig-ht  be  a  o;enteel 
evasion     on    his    part    to    checkmate 

EAR     STRETCHER    WORN     BY     MIS- 

me,  and  yet  avert  the  disagreeable-  sionary  girls,  mombasa. 
ness  of  out-and-out  opposition.  With  propitiatory  gallantry 
he  even  proffered  for  my  use  when,  if  I  should  return 
from  Zanzibar,  his  fine,  airy  bungalow  at  Kilandini,  a  suburb 
of  Mombasa;  although  unfurnished,  he  urged  it  would  be  a 
cool  and  airy  place  of  refuge,  much  better  than  to  camp 
in  the  open,  although  I  was  quite  prepared  to  do  that  if 
necessary.  In  passing,  I  would  say  my  Obstacle  had 
advanced  the  objection  to  me  that  Mombasa  was  an  unfit 
place  for  a  lady,  because  there  were  no  hotel  accommodations. 


82 


SULTAN     TO     SL'LTAN. 


So  by  this  gentleman's  recommendation,  with  all  my 
goods  and  chattels,  which  I  had  largely  Increased  by  additions 
in  the  different  ports,  I  betook  myself  to  Zanzibar  on  the 
"  Madura,"  full  of  apprehension,  but  determined  to  turn  over 
every  stone  before  admitting  I  was  frustrated,  and  try  what 
skill   I  had  at  recruiting  and    organizing  a  caravan. 


FORMI^G     MV     CARAVAN. 


83 


CHAPTER  IV. 

FORMING  MY  CARAVAN. 

'ORMING  my  caravan  —  how  to 
do  it,  and  how  long  it  would 
take  me  —  monopolized  my  entire 
thoughts,  to  the  exclusion  of  all 
others,  in  the  short  voyage  to  Zanzi- 
bar. Notwithstanding  that  practical  obsta- 
jfei-  cles  had  arisen,  and  rebuffs  whistled  like 
V/i\  small  shot  on  all  sides,  I  never  quaked 
even  secretly  beneath  a  vague  forecast  of 
'■-'  *  defeat. 
Alas!  at  Zanzibar  I  found  that  my  world-renowned  reputa- 
tion of  mad  woman  had  preceded  me,  to  my  prejudice.  In 
America,  England,  Aden,  and  Mombasa,  and  now  here,  I 
had  to  listen  to  and  confront  as  best  I  could  public  censure. 
The  bare  idea  that  a  woman  should  be  foolhardy  or  ignorant 
enough  to  dare  to  enter  Africa  from  the  east  coast  and  at- 
tempt to  penetrate  interior  as  far  as  the  Kilimanjaro  district 
of  the  late  Masai  raids,  at  a  time  when  great  disturbances 
had  been  provoked  by  the  Germans  and  a  revolt  was  brew- 
ing,   and    essaying    thus    to    do    as    the    sole    leader  and  com- 


84 


SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 


mander  of  her  own  caravan,  —  the  thing  was  preposterous,  and 
the  woman  boldly  denounced  as  viad,  mad,  principally  be- 
cause there  was  no  precedent  for  such  a  venture  ;  it  was  a 
thorough  innovation  of  accepted  proprieties.  It  never  had 
been  done,  never  even  suggested,  hence  it  must  be  im- 
possible, or  at  least  utterly  impracticable,  and  certainly  out- 
side   a  woman's    province. 


MOMBASA    FROM    ENGLISH    I'OINT. 


Zanzibaris  porters  could  never  be  induced  to  go  into  a 
district  terrorized  over  by  bloodthirsty,  buccaneering  Masai 
on  safari  (journey)  led  solely  by  a  woman.  Any  woman 
with  such  intentions,  whoever  she  might  be,  must  take  no 
offence  when  set  down  as  a  reckless  fool.  The  movement 
ought  to  be  first  scoffed,  then,  if  necessary,  obstructed,  and 
finally,  if  need  be,  prohibited  by  the  authorities.  Despite 
her  intrepidity,  or  her  attributes  for  leadership,  or  her  ability 
to    spurn    hardships  as    she  might  dangers,  she  must  be  irra- 


FORMINC;     MV     CARAVAN.  85 

tional  in  attempting  such  a  liazardous  vindertaking,  and  doubt- 
less would  gladly  abandon  not  only  an  ambitious  but  impracti- 
cal and  suicidal  plan  when  once  she  was  properl)'  informed  of 
the  clangers,  and  convinced  of  the  uncontrollable  odds  against 
her.  Having  listened  to  these  same  sort  of  protests  and 
persuasions  until  my  ears  were  dulled  to  their  unsavory 
repetitions, —  aye,  in  truth,  I  think  I  knew  the  formula  of 
every  objection  by  rote  and  rule,  and  could  ring  the  changes 
as  deftly  as  my  opponents,  —  did  these  gentlemen  know 
that  my  empire  of  folly  was  not  ostracized,  and  that 
I  had  received  over  two  thousand  applications  from  both 
men  and  women,  as  a  rule  accredited  with  unusual  sense, 
occupying  almost  every  rank  in  life,  and  the  majority  of  them 
professional  and  scientific  men,  entreating  me  to  allow  them 
to  accompany  my  free  and   independent    expedition  ? 

The  most  insuperable  difficulty  urged  upon  me  was  the 
fact  that  there  were  no  porters  to  be  had,  even  at  Zanzibar, 
so  manj'  caravans  had  been  equipped  for  the  Germans  as  well 
as  for  the  I.  B.  E.  A.  Co.,  and  for  some  private  expeditions 
that    had  combined  to  drain  the    country  oi  available   porters. 

After  much  persuasion,  Mr.  Boustead,  one  of  a  firm  for 
equipping  caravans,  agreed  to  constitute  himself  my  agent,  if 
I  so  desired,  and  endeavor  to  obtain  fifty  men  to  go  with  me 
to  the  interior,  without  any  masculine  European  to  aid  me. 
This,  however,  he  did    in   a  very  discouraging  way. 

"  If  it  were  a  feasible  scheme,  even  then  there  are  not  fifty 
men    to  be  had,"  he    urged.      "  Besides,  Zanzibaris  would    not 


86 


SULTAN     TO     SULl'AiN. 


manner, 
succeed. 


consent  to  go  in 
such  a  small 
number  into 
hostile  Masai 
land,  and  cer- 
tainly not  with- 
out being  prop- 
perl)'  armed." 

I  protested, 
urged,  argued, 
and  finally  got 
him  to  consent 
to  try.  I  wanted 
to  start  from 
jMombasa  within 
a  fortnight; 
hence  he  must 
work  sharp  to 
collect  the  men 
and  to  provide 
the  necessary 
supplies.  My 
urgency  for 
speed    was    met 

M.    FRENCH-SHELDON.       BEHi;    r.WANA.  in      a      d  U  D  I  O  U  S 

He   would    try,     but    he     had    no    hope    he     should 
Then   cropped    up    another    vital    reason    for    delay. 


FORMING     MY     CARAVAN. 


87 


There  was  no  water  in  the  interior,  and  would  be  none  until 
the  rains.  Very  well,  then,  I  would  wait  until  there  was  rain, 
if  he  would  set  to  work  about  the  caravan,  in  order  that 
I  should  not  be  detained  when  the  auspicious  time  came. 
That  very  day  the  rain  fell  in  torrents. 
I   asked   him   if 


influence  with  the 
Sultan  would  aid 
him    in  any    wa)'. 

"  Certainly  it 
would." 

So  I  proceeded 
to  use  my  diplo- 
matic passport, 
and,  through  the 
courtesy  of  Ameri- 
can Consul-Gen- 
eral  Ropes  at  Zan- 
zibar, arranged  for 
an  early  audience 
with  the  Sultan. 
There  were  cer- 
tain difficulties 
herc:;  again  to  be 
encountered.  It 
was  unusual  for 
his     Highness     to 


ti^ffr^^(2i^?^'^  v-A.\ 


SULTAN    OF    ZANZIBAR. 


8S  SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 

receive  a  lady,  but,  in  consideration  of  Consul-General  Ropes's 
persuasive  arguments  in  my  behalf, —  that  I  was  the  first  lady 
to  attempt  to  lead  a  caravan  that  history  had  ever  known, 
and  various  flattering  claims  he  made  for  my  personal  im- 
portance,—  a  message  came  to  say  the  next  day  at  four  he 
would  receive  me,  but  I  must  come  alone,  conducted  to  his 
Highness  by  two  dragomen,  who  would  attend  me  from  the 
consul's  residence  to  the  palace.  As  I  walked  through  the 
narrow,  dirty  apologies  for  streets,  sandwiched  between  these 
two  marked  dragomen,  with  all  the  black  people  gazing  at 
me  as  they  deferentially  drew  aside  to  let  me  pass,  and 
squatted  on  their  heels  in  lieu  of  bowing,  the  thought  came 
flashing  into  my  brain  that  even  these  wretched  blacks,  in 
their  debasement,  imagined  the  very  worst  thing  possible 
about  the  white  woman,  and  I  felt  choked  with  self-indigna- 
tion that  a  freeborn  American  woman  should  have  sought 
the  opportunit)'  to  conspicuously  place  herself  in  such  a  ques- 
tionable position ;  then  the  absolutism  of  my  one  determina- 
tion asserted  itself,  and  the  humiliation  was  from  thence  a 
mere    detail,    albeit    keen  and  uncomfortable. 

Arriving  at  the  palace,  which  is  a  most  unpretentious 
structure,  I  was  conducted  up  a  flight  of  long  stairs  and 
was  met  by  the  Sultan  on  the  landing.  The  few  words  of 
salutation  in  Ki-Swahali  I  had  mastered  came  tripping  off 
my  tongue  in  response  to  the  Sultan's  jajiibos,  obsequious 
smiles,  and  bows  of  welcome.  After  these  ceremonious  pre- 
liminaries were    over,  one  of   the    dragomen  was    commanded 


FORMING     MV     CARAVAN. 


89 


by  the  Sultan  to  act  as  interpreter.  The  walls  of  the  large, 
showy  saloon  were  hung  with  red  panels  embellished  with 
quotations  from  the  Koran  in  embossed  gilt  characters  ; 
great  showy  crystal  chandeliers  hung  from  the  ceiling;   tables 


WHITE    IVORV. 

of  beautiful  inlaid  workmanship  were  ranged  through  the 
centre  of  the  room,  and  tall-backed  gilt  chairs  with  crimson 
satin  cushions  were  arrano-ed  in  a  stilted  fashion  througfhout 
the  long  saloon.  The  floor  had  a  crimson  velvet  carpet  with 
such  thick  pile  the  tread  of   feet  became  noiseless. 

Once  seated  at  one  of  the  tables,  feeling  flushed  by  the 
curious  scrutiny  of  all  the  attendants  who  hovered  about, 
I  was  gratified  when  the  Sultan  ordered  a  particularly  staring 


90  SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 

oleaginous  creature  to  serve  coffee.  This  I  drank  witli  relish; 
l)ut  no  sooner  was  my  cup  partially  empty  than  there  was  a 
quick  succession  of  various  sorts  of  sherbets  paraded  for 
my  refreshment;  trul)'  they  were  marvellous  concoctions  of 
all  colors,  beginning  with  brown,  closely  followed  b)'  red, 
green,  and  white  syrupdike  fluids  in  the  daintiest  glasses 
imaginable  ;  but,  with  suspicion,  I  avoided  the  strange,  spicy, 
honeyed  beverages  ;  only  touching  the  rim  ot  each  glass  with 
my  forefinger,  then,  out  of  courtesy,  pressing  my  finger  to  my  lips 
in  sign  of  satiety,  to  excuse  my  declining  such  choice   nectars. 

Subsequent  to  these  delicate  civilities,  the  .Sultan  explained, 
with  evident  embarrassment,  that  it  was  not  his  custom  to  cere- 
moniously receive  ladies,  nevertheless  he  was  quite  desirous  to 
be  of  service  to  me  in  every  possible  way.  This  was  my  chance 
to  tell  him  of  my  proposed  expedition  to  Kilimanjaro  and 
Masai  land.  Pulling  his  joho  (long  loose  embroidered  coat) 
around  him,  e.xposing  his  bare  feet  encased  in  sandals,  he 
expressed  regret  that  I  should  desire  to  go  to  such  a  danger- 
ous, wild  section  of  Africa,   and  wished  I   might  be  dissuaded. 

"Is  not  Zanzibar  charming?  Why  not  linger  here  as  the 
friend    of   the    Sultan  ? " 

"No,  not  dissuaded,"  I  firmly  rejoined:  "however,  his 
Majesty  could  make  It  far  easier  and  safer  for  me,  it  he  telt 
inclined." 

Again  he  wrapped  his  splendid  gold-embroidered  jolio 
about  him  with  a  certain  majesty  and  said  Imperiously,  "Com- 
mand  us  and  it  shall  be  done." 


FORMING     MV     CARAVAN'. 


91 


Explaining  the  difficulties  my  agent  experienced  in  pro- 
curing porters,  I  urged  that  he  would  aid  me  b_\-  having  all 
slaves  volunteering  speedily  sworn  in  on  the  followino-  Satur- 
day ;  and  when  masters  interfered  with  their  slaves,  or  mid- 
dlemen objected, 
to  declare  him- 
self my  friend, 
and  command  it 
otherwise. 

"It    shall     be 
done." 

He  ordered 
his  band  to  play 
some  special 
pieces  in  m )• 
honor,  which,  as 
usual,  wound  up 
the  performance 
by  the  national 
anthem,  an  ex- 
plosive pot- 
pojirri.  When  I 
was  on  the  point  of  leaving,  after  drenching  me  with  otter  of 
rose,  he  invited  me,  with  great  effusiveness,  to  return  on 
the  following  Friday  with  a  woman  interpreter,  to  visit 
his  harem ;  he  also  placed  a  carriage  at  my  disposal  during 
the  entire  time  I  remained  in  port, —  I  will  not  mar  the  lustre 


SULTAN  S    -IHREE    HKN'CH.MKN. 


92 


SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 


of  his  gallantry  by  describing  the  Sultan's  vehicles  and  horses, 
—  and  he  offered  to  take  out  his  war  ship  "Glasgow"  for 
my  pleasure.  This  war  ship,  by  the  by,  it  is  satirically  said, 
was    presented    to    the   Sultan  by  a  celebrated    shipbuilder  for 

the   paltry  sum  of   $200,- 
000  (/40,000). 

Friday's  arrangements, 
owing  to  the  difficulties 
of  procuring  a  woman 
interpreter,  either  from 
the  mission  people  or 
through  my  agents, 
seemed  to  be  una\oida- 
bly  cancelled  when  I  re- 
woMAN  OF  THE  HAREM.  celved     a     message     from 

the  .Sultan  summoning  me  to  come,  as  he  had  himself  se- 
cured the  services  of  a  woman  interpreter.  So  I  went,  and 
received  a  most  friendly  reception.  Through  locked  and 
barred  doors  I  was  conducted  from  one  of  the  palaces  — 
there  are  three  in  a  row — to  the  other;  and  finally  reaching 
a  large  saloon,  the  place  where  the  interpreter  was  dismissed, 
that  was  in  wild  disorder,  like  the  show-room  of  a  barbaric 
merchant  prince,  —  a  dazzling  variety  and  array  of  valuable 
gifts,  curios,  all  sorts  of  purchasable  splendors  heaped  incon- 
gruously one  upon  another  upon  tables,  on  the  floor,  and 
nothing  showing  to  any  advantage,  the  only  impression  given 
was  of   quantity  and  enormous  value. 


FORMING     MV     CARAVAN. 


The  Sultan's  eldest  daughter  was  brousfht  !n  In'  a  black 
woman  slave,  attended    by    two   little    black  slave  boys. 

With  a  flash  of  pride  the  Sultan  exclaimed,  "  See  how  a 
Sultan  dresses  his  daughter!  Look  well,  and  tell  to  other 
Europeans  how  splendid  are  her  jewels."  The  heavy  gold 
anklets  worn  by  this  little  child,  but  five  years  of  age, 
impeded  her  moving  with  any  freedom.  Her  crown,  studded 
with  jewels,  must  ha\'e  pained  her  tender  brow ;  and  the 
gorgeous  as  well  as  curious  necklaces  suspended  one  upon 
another  to  the  number  of  a  dozen,  and  numerous  bracelets 
and  fineer  rings,  certainlv  must  have  been  burdensome. 
The  Sultan's  lament  is  that  he  is  unfortunate  in  having  three 
dauo'hters  and   no  sons.      He 

o 

was  curious  to  know  if  I  had 
children,  and  when  the  nega- 
tive response  was  conveyed 
to  him,  he  asked  boldly, 
"  Has  your  husband  many 
wives?"  He  smiled  in  a 
cynical  way. 

"  Certainly  not,"  I  re- 
torted with  some  contempt, 
vexed   by    his    effrontery. 

At  this  juncture  a  heavy  embroidered  portiere  was  drawn 
aside  by  two  Malay  eunuchs,  whose  tongues  were  cut  out 
to  limit  their  power  of  disclosing  secrets,  and  there  appeared 
a  hauo-hty  woman,  gorgeously  attired.      Possessed  with  all  the 


WOMA>f    OF    THI5    HXREM. 


94  SUI.TAX     TO     SULTAN. 

Imperious  disdain  of  an  empress,  she  approached  me,  and 
rudely  threw  out  her  hand  to  me,  at  the  same  time  ungra- 
ciously darting  a  glance  of  outraged  feeling  upon  me.  This 
then  was  the  Sultana !  Poor  woman,  did  she  presume  I 
was  another  usurper  of  her  legitimate  place?  Only  a  few 
moments  expired  when  she  was  ushered  out  by  two  gross, 
horrid,  greasy  eunuchs,  and  the  portiere  was  drawn  over  the 
closing  door.  Within  ten  minutes  after  her  Highness's  exit, 
through  another  door  entered  in  Indian  file  woman  after 
woman  of  the  Sultan's  harem,  to  a  number  most  amaz- 
ing. Each  one  In  turn  approached  me,  extending  her  hand. 
To  the  first,  who  was  a  fine,  frank-looking  creature,  I 
arose  to  respond  to  her  greeting,  when  the  Sultan  waved 
me    down, — 

"  Do  not  trouble  )-ourself  lor  them.  There  are  too  man\-, 
all  alike,  and  not  worth  it." 

Some  of  these  poor,  degraded  concubines  were  sad-eyed 
and  full  of  sorrow,  others  seemed  defiant  and  triumphant, 
and  yet  others  looked  envious.  Comparing  the  vast  difter- 
ence  in  the  costliness  and  quantity  of  their  jewels  and 
dresses,  it  flashed  across  my  mind  that  these  distinctions  were 
marks  of  favoritism.  Each  and  every  one  of  these  royal 
concubines,  at  the  command  of  the  Sultan,  bathed  my 
right  foot  in  rose-water,  and  In  recognition  of  my  superi- 
ority and  evidence  ol  their  humlllt)-,  each  ga\e  me  one 
of  her  jewelled  rings.  The  sum  total  was  one  hundred  and 
fort)- two. 


FORMING     MV     CARAVAN. 


M^. 


95 


I 


\VA 


c)^-^vv 


SULTAN  S    PASSPORT. 

TRAXSLATIOX   OF   SULTAN'S   LETTER. 
In  the  name  of  God  the  meyoiful,  the  eo/fipassionate. 
From  Ali  Bin  Sa'iij. 

To  nil  who  may  see  it,  and  to  proceed :  This  respected  American  lady  is  one  of  those 
arriving  here  and  travelling  into  the  region  of  Kilimanjaro;  and  I  command  that  everv 
one  who  meets  her,  or  with  whom  she  puts  up,  shall  receive  her  with  absolute  regard  and 
attention,  and  shall  restrain  any  one  who  interferes  with  her;  for  she  is  one  of  those  who 
are  much  esteemed  by  us.  This  is  fur  the  information  of  those  whom  she  may  meet. 
And  peace  be  with  you. 

Written  on  the  seventeenth  of  the  month  Sha'han.  in  the  year  13US  4   (March  2,  ISDl). 

I>y  the  order  of 

ABDAL  AZIZ  BINf  MOHAMMED. 


96  SUITAN     TO     SULTAN. 

The  Sultan,  after  sliowing  me  about  through  the  private 
rooms,  as  he  professed  he  had  never  previously  shown  any 
one,  queried  what  I  thought  of  it  all.  With  true  American 
frankness,  I  declared  it  atrocious.  He  said  he  would  gladly 
renounce  his  harem,  "  But  I  should  lose  my  Arab  constitu- 
ency." 

Most  cautious  man  as  this  .Sultan  is  respecting  signing 
papers,  always  suspicious  of  some  governmental  policy  that 
will  in\-olve  him,  he  offered  to  vise  my  passport.  This  I 
declined,  desirous  that  he  should  give  me  a  special  letter  to 
any  Arab  caravans  1  might  encounter  on  my  route  up 
country.  This  he  did.  He  also  gave  me  his  autographed 
photograph  ;  and  I  had  the  Sultan's  word  he  would  always  be 
more  than  pleased  to  serve  me  in  an\'  possible  way  as  his 
friend.  His  gifts  were  most  lavish  ;  a  pair  of  Muscat  dogs, 
and  four  Muscat  donkeys,  which  policy  dictated  it  was 
best  to  decline.  .Saturday  my  men  were  sworn  in  without 
the  usual  difficulty,  and  when  the  steamship  "Madura"  sailed 
out  of  port  I  had  the  satisfaction  of  knowing  that  in  six  days 
the  so-called  impossible  had  been  accomplished,  and  by  a 
woman.  Eight  of  my  people  were  on  the  ship.  My  headman 
of  headmen,  Hamidi,  one  of  the  best  known  and  most  reliable 
of  Zanzibaris,  had  come  to  pledge  to  me  perfect  faithfulness. 
I  had  started  out  with  the  idea  of  ha\-ing  plenty  of  women 
as  j)orters,  and  to  have  a  native  woman  interpreter.  I  saw 
only  one  native  woman  who  could  in  any  way  fill  the 
recjuirements    of    the    latter    [jost,    and    ni)*    conscience     would 


FORMING     MV     CARAVAN. 


97 


not  allow  me  to  employ  her,  much  as  I  desired,  as  she 
had  started  for  the  mission  a  children's  school,  which  would 
have  come  to  a 
standstill  if  she 
was  taken  away. 
As  a  slave,  when 
a  child,  she  had 
been  rescued 
from  her  cruel 
captivity  and  be- 
friended by  the 
mission  people, 
educated  and 
s  u  p  p  o  r  t  e  ci  b)'  ^ 
them  during  her 
helpless  child- 
hood; although 
she  had   been  in  akai;  i.i.hek-writer. 

other  employ  since,  until  the  school  was  inaugurated,  she 
scrupulously  owned  that  the  mission  had  a  first  claim  upon 
her  services,  —  a  sentiment  in  which   I   accorded. 

We  steamed  back  to  Mombasa.  There,  for  the  first  time, 
my  freight  and  luggage,  which  were  far  from  being  modest, 
were  disembarked,  for  I  had  taken  everything  with  me  to 
Zanzibar  in  case  I  should  be  compelled  to  go  to  Kilimanjaro 
through  German  territory,  via  Bagamoyo  or   Pangania. 

Malignant    fever   was    raging    at    Zanzibar,    and    a   general 


^gr 


98 


SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 


panic  possessed  nearly  every  European  resident.  Clinical 
thermometers  flourished,  and  a  friend's  or  an  acquaintance's 
temperature  was  a  theme  for  open  discussion  on  the  high- 
ways and  byways.  It  was  and  is  the  universal  practice  dur- 
ing an  epidemic  for  every  one  to  test  his  or  her  own  tem- 
perature   several    times  daily.     A    friend  meets  a    friend  ;    the 

daily  bulletin  of 
their  respective 
temperatures  is 
discussed.  "  INI )' 
temperature  is 
I  o  2  ,  what  is 
y  o  u  r  s?"  "  Mine 
is  103,  and  I'm 
going  to  get  a 
chance  to  go  on 
board  of  one  of 
the  war  ships." 
"  Poor  So-and-So's 
temperature  was 
107  this  morning, 
they  have  him  in 
an  ice  bath.     He'll 


ARABIAN    MUSICIAN. 


pass  in  his  chips !  "  This  habit  is  one  of  the  most  ridicu- 
lous and  pernicious,  rendering  many  a  person  liable  to  fever, 
and    should  be  tabooed. 

Zanzibar  to  a  stranger  presents  the  guise  of  a  pest-ridden 


FORMING     MV     CARAVAN. 


99 


SUGAR-CANE    SEI.I.F.R. 


lOO  SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 

land.  No  sewerage,  and  all  the  fikh  pitched  into  the  sea  to 
ebb  and  How  with  the  tides,  polluting  the  atmosphere  and 
stinking  in  one's  nostrils.  The  streets  are  narrow,  crooked, 
and  dirty.  Bazaars  are  everywhere,  and  bedecked  with  all 
sorts  of  articles.  I  took  oreat  delight  in  watching  an  Arab 
family  at  table,  also  an  Arab  woman  selling  sugar-cane. 
Oranges  of  the  most  luscious  variety  and  .sweet  limes  and 
mangoes  were  extremely  cheap  and  plenty.  There  are  two 
very  good  clubs,  and  nothing  else  but  dinner  parties  and 
a  montonous  drive  of  seven  miles  for  recreation.  A  .Sunday 
spent  with  a  friend  at  his  sJunnba  (country  place)  is  always 
enjoyable.  There  are  never  but  a  very  few  white  women, 
the  wives  or  relations  of  the  consuls.  When  a  war  ship 
or  a  steamer  is  in  port,  the  residents  are  permitted  an  oppor- 
tunity to  go  on  board,  and  the  commanders  frequently 
inaugurate  a  series  of  little  dinners  or  luncheons  ;  but  at 
best  the  outlook  is  very  circumscribed,  and  a  man's  ambition 
must,  in  the  end,  be  downed.  Girl  water-carriers  made  a 
pretty  picture  going  in  bevies  to  and  from  the  wells,  carry- 
ing their  hammered  copper,  brass,  and  earthen  pots  upon  their 
heads  ;  one  girl  always  supplied  with  a  long-handled  ladle, 
the   dipper  part  made  of  a  calabash. 

Upon  return  to  Mombasa,  Mr.  Mackenzie,  no  longer  my 
Obstacle,  but  my  converted  friend,  with  kind  courtesy  ten- 
dered me  the  use  of  his  large,  airy,  two-storied  bungalow, 
most  picturesquely  surrounded  at  Kilindini,  during  my  sojourn, 
while    awaiting  the  balance  of  my  caravan. 


FORMINC;      -MY     CARAVAN. 


lOI 


The  scenery  and  lov^ely  climate  made  the  nine  ilays  of 
my  tarriance  well  worth  I'emembering.  The  principal  men 
associated  with  the  difierent  departments  ot  the  I.  15.  E.  A. 
Co.  called  upon  me. 
One  can  but  be  amazed 
at  the  kind  of  men  that 
have  taken  up  their  work 
so  far  away  from  all  that 
civilization  means  to  men 
of  education  and  ability. 
There  are  but  few  coun- 
terfeits of  houses.  Every 
one  must  live  in  a  struc- 
ture of  four  corrugated 
zinc  walls,  with  a  tuakota 
(cocoanut  leat )  plaited 
thatching  placed  over  a 
zinc  roof.  Most  ot  the 
dwellings  are  constructec 
right    upon     the     ground,  okkvish  musician. 

and  the  best  of  them  have  only  a  cemented  floor  and  out- 
sheds.  There  is  a  slanting  makota-pent  forming  the  cover- 
ing to  a  rude  veranda,  beneath  which  it  is  the  custom  to  lie 
and  sit  during  the  hot  noonda)-,  as  well  as  during  moments 
of  leisure,  where  long  chairs  are  ever  in  view,  and  dripping 
calabashes  of  water  hanging  to  cool  where  the  air  freel)- 
circulates. 


I02 


SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 


MOJIBASA. 


Tlierc  are  no  luxuries,  not  even  proper  comforts  in  this 
new  countr)-,  where  young  men  have  rushed  with  the  love 
of  adventure  and  the  hope  ot  making  a  mark  for  themselves 
and  achieving  a  future.  .Somehow  there  seems  to  be  a  fas- 
cination enshrininof  adventurous  Africa  for  fine,  eneryfetic  men 
who  are  fired  with  ambition.  Alas  I  I  greatly  fear  all  is 
not  as  they  pictured  it  in  their  tar-away  homes.  There  is  no 
royal  road  in  this  new  El  Dorado.  Ability,  steadfast  work, 
patience,  abnegation,  and    time    are  the  only  stepping  stones. 

One  week  alter  leaving  Zanzibar  my  entire  caravan 
arrived  at  Mombasa,  and  in  the  late  afternoon,  with  songs  of 
salutation  and  general  yells  resounding  through  the  shaniba 
of  Kilindini    bungalow,   there  came  ninety-five  porters,  askari. 


KORMIXi;      MV     (/ARAVAN. 


103 


palanquin  bearers,  headmen,  and  interpreters,  making  my  little 
army  of  Zanzibaris  up  to  the  g-oodly  number  of  one  hundred 
and  three.  Seventy  ot  these  men  were  to  be  armed  with 
guns.  The  balance  carried  knives.  It  was  only  under 
this  condition  porters  could  be  induced  to  go  into  the 
Masai  countr\-.  They  camped  as  they  could  until  Monda\, 
when  all  my  loads  woukl  bj  delivered  from  the  dhow.  I 
gave  the  porters  one  and  all  a  general  address  as  to  ni)'  retjuire- 
ments  from  them,  and  what  to  expect  if  they  were  unfaithful. 
To  all  I  said  they  replied,  "  Dio  "  (yes),  and  "  Inshallah"  (God 
willing).      The    same    shuffling    irresponsibility  as   with  whites. 


HARBOR    OF    ZAN'ZIliAR.        SULTAN  S    PALACE. 


I04  SULTAN    TO     SULTAN 


SfSj^'—J 


FORMING     MV     CAKAVAX. 


TRAVSLATION. 


To  all  Arabs  and  Siualiilis  travelling  in  ike  interior :  This  is  to  inform  you  that  this 
lady,  to  whom  I  have  given  this  letter,  is  my  friend,  and  I  wish  every  one  who  meets  her 
caravan  to  be  kind  to  herself  and  her  porters,  and  to  do  everything  to  help  her  safari.  Any 
one  who  does  this,  and  brings  a  letter  from  her  to  say  she  is  pleased  with  what  has  been  dune 
for  her,  will  receive  thanks  on  arrival  at  Muml^asa.  Should  any  one  interfere  with  her  caravan, 
annoy  her  in  any  way,  and  do  any  act  of  disrespect  to  her,  will  be  considered  to  have  offentled 
the  company,  and  will  be  treated  and  punished  accordingly. 

(Signed)  GEORGE  S.  MACKENZIE. 

Mombasa,  4th  April,  ISOl. 

In  my  caravan  I  found  I  had  men  who  had  been  with 
several  great  explorers,  and  with  some  of  the  big  game 
hunters  who  had  memorialized  Cha^a  land  as  the  Hunters' 
Paradise.  I  looked  with  amazement  over  all  these  strange 
black  and  every  shade  of  brown  faces,  with  much  brutality 
imprinted  thereupon,  and  marvelled  if  I  should  always  be 
able  to  control  them  and  make  them  subservient  to  my  com- 
mands. After  a  moment's  contemplation  I  felt  somehow  that 
I  should,  and  would  not  have  hesitated  to  have  started  at 
once  with  the  lot  as  they  stood,  for  a  three  years'  journey 
The  work  in  providing  the  right  and  infinite  variety  of  beads 
and  wire  and  cloths  for  barter  to  procure  food  for  all  this 
body  of  men,  for  no  longer  a  period  even  than  three  months, 
was  a  great  anxiety,  and,  when  properly  clone,  1  had  more 
loads  than  men,  and  was  forced  to  telegraph  to  my  agent 
to  get  for  me  thirty  more  porters  and  have  them  follow  me 
to  Taveta.  \Mien  the)',  with  the  headman  and  two  soldiers 
{askari),  arrived,  I  had  one  hundred  and  thirty-eight  men. 
Usually  many  desert,  for  they  receive  so  much  of  their  wages 
in     advance  ;     in     this     instance,     three    months'.       However, 


io6 


SULTAN     'R)     SULTAN. 


BLAi_  K    l\iiRV. 


the  Fates  were  in  my  favor,  for,  upon  calling  the  roll,  there 
were  only  a  few  who  had  remained  at  Zanzibar,  and  these 
were  replaced  by  \nlunteers. 

When  Monday  came,  and  the  guns,  which  were 
brought  to  me  b)'  a  chain  gang,  were  distributed,  Mr.  Mac- 
kenzie harangued  the  people,  telling  them  if  the)-  deserted 
and  were  found  by  him  or  his  agents,  they  should  be  con- 
demned to  serve  a  )ear  in  the  chain  gang.  The  Sultan  had 
promised  any  miscreant  far  v.orse  punishment, —  to  cut  their 
throats  if  black-listed.  Then  there  was  a  heavy  penalty  put 
upon  the  whole  caravan,  and  for  that  matter  upon  me  too, 
respecting    the    firearms.        No    one    could    sell,    or    lose,    or 


FORMING     MY    CARAVAN. 


107 


break  his  gun  without  a  fine  of  about  forty  dollars,  —  double 
the  value  of  the  gun  when  new.  All  this,  I  was  assured, 
was  in  my  behalf,  and  doubtless  proved  a  great  protection  to 
me,  although  I  could  not  refrain  from  expressing  temporary 
indignation  at  what  seemed  extortion.  So,  gathering  up  all 
the  loads,  carefully  numbered,  embarking  my  Palanquin  and 
all  the  people  in  a  large  dhow,  and  some  in  smaller  boats, 
the  I.  B.  E.  A.'s  steam  launch,  for  a  given  sum  of  rupees  towed 
us  across  to  Railroad  Point,  and  from  there  we  were  reall)- 
to    make    the  first  start  the  next  morning. 


io8 


SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 


CHAPTER   V. 

THE    FIRST    ^L\RCH. 

H-COVETED  rain. 
with  its  heralded  season 
of  benefits,  propitiated 
us,  and  the  entire  cara- 
van was  atlirill  with  de- 
Hght,  knowing"  how  the 
liardships  and  fatigues 
of  the  safari  (journey) 
they  liad  enlisted  for 
would  be  ameliorated 
now    that    they  could  anticipate    plenty  of    water. 

Having  put  out  from  Kilidini  at  a  late  hour,  although 
our  point  of  landing  was  a  short  distance  abo\e  and  across 
the  narrow  stream,  in  consequence  of  the  weight  of  loads,  the 
throng  of  people,  and  the  swift  current,  we  reached  Railroad 
Point,  after  considerable  delay,  too  near  night  to  make  any 
progress  on  our  journey.  Persuaded  by  the  officers  of  the 
I.  B.  E.  A.  Co.  stationed  here,  I  consented  with  pleasure  to 
remain  over  nifjht  as  the  cri-iest  of  mv  friend,  Mr.  C.  Mac- 
donnell   Lemmi,  who  most  graciously  vacated  his  premises  for 


THE     FIRST     MARCH. 


109 


my  personal  accommodation,  whereas  my  men  camped  in  the 
adjacent  open.  If  so  inclined,  my  friend  could  have  boasted 
of  being  the  possessor  of  the  most  tasteful  dwelling  there- 
abouts. Instead  of  giving  wa)'  to  the  uninviting  barrenness 
and   uncon- 


geniality  of 
his  sur- 
roundings, 
he  had  with 
self-respect 
exerted 
himself  to 
make  the 
best  of  con- 
d  it  ion  s  in 
his  endeav- 
or to  main- 
tain a  sem- 
blance of 
his      inbred 


JOSEFE    AND    NATIVES. 


home  refinement.  The  interior  of  his  tin\-  corrugated  abode 
was  daintily  hung  with  bright  trade  cottons,  and  photographs 
were  grouped  about  on  the  walls  and  tables  ;  his  toilet  arti- 
cles were  arrayed  in  such  a  fashion  as  to  betray  his  fondness 
for  elegance  ;  the  floor  was  covered  with  prett)'  Zanzibar  mats, 
upon  which  were  spread  lion  and  leopard  skins,  and  over  the 
chair  backs  were  draped   bits    of  bright   cotton  stuffs  ;   a  large 


I  lO 


SLl.TAX     Til     SUI.TAN. 


ARAI'.S    RKSTIXn. 


THE     FIRST     MARCH.  I  I  I 

Milan  plush  rug  answered  for  a  bedspread.  Everything,  with- 
out being  costly,  was  most  decorative,  and  presented  a  vivid 
contrast  to  the  heedless  don't-care  manner  most  men  permit 
themselves  to  lapse  into  when  isolated  from  home  tics. 
Some  wa)'  it  was  ineHaljl)-  touching  to  witness  these  evi- 
dences of  this  great  stalwart  man's  clinging  to  the  artistic 
conventions  of  his  far-away  Italian  home  lite.  He  was  one 
of  the  "wise  men"  who,  according  to  Shakespeare,  "make 
every  port  a  happy  ha\en,"  antl  never  made  a  display  ot  his 
disappointments  when  his  dreams  were  discounted  by  stern 
reality,  but,  to  the  contrary,  tried  to  infuse  fact  with  fancy. 
Denied  the  refined  companionship  of  white  women  for  a  long 
time,  this  man  was  most  charmed  to  have  the  lleeting  oppor- 
tunity to  converse  with  mc  ;  and  I  have  thought,  since  my 
return,  if  for  no  other  result  than  the  undisguised  pleasure 
afforded  to  lone,  forlorn  white  men  I  encountered  in  East 
Africa,  by  my  presence  and  society,  my  expedition  would, 
even  so,    not  have  been  made  in  vain. 

The  Indian  bullocks  and  their  drivers  interested  me  very 
much.  These  expensive,  handsome  little  animals  had  been 
importeci  to  send  to  Victoria  Nyanza,  but  during  the  wait 
were  employed  on  the  railroad  construction  works.  How- 
ever, they  were  finally  shipped  as  accessories  to  Capt. 
Rodgers,  and  his  troop  of  sepoy  soldiers  loaned  b)-  the 
government  to  I.  B.  E.  A.  Co.  in  his  expedition  to  W'itu. 
A  camel  caravan  had  gone  up  countrj'  a  few  weeks  prior  to 
my  appearance,  and   bad   news    came    back   to  the  effect  that 


I  12 


SULTAN    TO    SULTAN. 


the  camels  were  coming  to  grief  and  dying.  This  portion 
of  Africa  does  not  conduce  to  the  use  of  camels  for  trans- 
portation. Donkeys  die  off  very  speedily,  and  horses  are 
impossible ;  therefore  there  remains  no  relief  to  the  poor 
Zanzibar  porters,  nor  immunity  for  the  natives  from  slavery 
until  a    railroad  is  constructed. 


POMRE    CUPS. 


Unfortunately,  the  recent  rain  had  washed  out  the  tem- 
porary roadbed  of  the  railroad  and  undermined  the  rails 
so  that  they  were  not  safe  to  drive  the  heavy  engine  ov'er ; 
therefore  the  seven  miles  I  had  anticipated  to  have  conveyed 
my  carax'an  b\'  rail  was   now  impossible. 

During  the  evening  and  night  some  straggling  porters 
came  into  camp,  reducing  the  list  of  deserters  materially. 
My  friend  kindly  gave  me  a  lesson  in  roll  calling,  as  well  as 
how  to  quickly  inspect  loads,  count  the  rifles,  and  set  my 
tents.      For  the  last  time   everything  was  overhauled. 

When    it    is    recognized  that  a  caravan  going  into  the  in- 


THE     FIRST     MARCH. 


113 


terior  or  up  country  in  Africa  is  like  a  migratory  community, 
and  must  be  provisioned  and  armed  for  the  entire  expedition, 
take  sufficient  goods  for  barter  to  insure  immunity  from 
hunger,  and  be  enabled  to  give  tribute  to  purchase  from  the 
natives  a  right  of  way  i^hongo^ ,  if  required,  as  well  as  a 
variety  of  presents  for  the  natives  one  wishes  to  negotiate 
with,  and  that  it  is  essential  to  provide  for  necessities  and 
all  likely  emergencies  during  periods  of  health  as  well  as 
during  sickness,  that  precaution  must  be  taken  against 
tropical  heat  as  well  as  against  the  bitter  cold  trade  winds, 
which  at  certain  seasons  blow  up  during  the  afternoon  or 
night,  and  for  dry  as  well  as  for  rainy  weather,  living  as 
one  must  in  the  open,  tlie  incongruity  and  variety  ot  an 
African  outfit  is  beyond  conception  of  any  one  who  has  not 
had  experience  therewith.  Not  onl)-  must  one  prepare 
against  the  elements, 
but  against  ferocious 
wild  beasts,  as  well  as 
the  invidious  attacks 
of  creatures  no  larger 
than  white  ants,  which 
are  perfect  vandals  in 
the  wa)'  they  carry  out 
their  work  of  rapid 
destruction  upon  all  wooden  objects.  Precious  or  valuable 
articles  must  be  kept,  to  insure  them  against  damage,  in 
air-tieht    and    water-tight    tin    cases :    the    coils    of   metal   wire 


BUFFALO   BULL. 


114 


SL'I.TAX     TO     SULTAN. 


{senenge)  are  sacked  in  round  packages  ;  the  beads  (^skanga  ) 
are  carried  in  boxes  or  canvas  sacking ;  the  cloth  in  long 
bales,  covered  with  makota  (cocoanut)  matting;  the  rice  in 
strange,  trumpet-shaped  bags;  the  provisions  in  boxes;  pots, 
pans,  and  kettles  upon    poles  exposed  to  view,  and  a  certain 


I, 

^ 

\ 

X 

^ 

t 

-^^ 

h 

^^ 

//l/^o/' 


"^ 


MASAI    FLAG    OF    1 RUCE. 

number  of  iron  pots,  in  which  the  porters  and  men  cook ; 
calabashes  with  water,  tents  and  poles,  chairs,  folding  tables, 
large  waterproof  canvases  enveloping  cork  ground  beds  ;  large 
piecec  of  waterproof  cloth,  the  ground  cloth  with  which  the 
tent  is  carpeted  to  keep  the  damp  from  rising  from  the  earth ; 
boxes  of  candles,  soap,  cartridges  in  boxes,  matches.  Hints 
and  steel,  cotton  waste  to  clean  the  guns,  cocoanut  oil,  kero- 


TIIK      FIRST     MARCH. 


I  I 


sene  in  large  square  tin  cans,  when  emptied  used  for  water 
cans,  or  bartered  to  the  natives;  coffee  in  sacks;  lanterns, 
by  night  swung  on  poles,  carried  by  a  porter,  with  a  light 
load;  water  bottles;  photographic  apparatus  and  instruments 
for  observation;  tools;  medicine  cases;  largfe  tin  buckets  lor 
water;  bath  tub,  hammock  for  the  sick,  and  all  manner  of 
trilling  accessories,  and  luxuries,  and  endless  et  ceteras.  Then 
come  the  men's  mats,  upon  which  they  sleep ;  the  cloth,  of 
which  they  make  their  little  tents,  used  as  a  turban  (vituniha^ 
during  the  day  to  ease  up  their  loads  from  their  heads,  and 
kept  by  them  to    the  last  as  a    means  of  barter  with   natives. 

In  the  selection  of  the 
beads,  the  quality  and  size 
of  the  metal  wires,  the 
cloths,  the  silks  and  velvets, 
gold-lace,  and  other  pres- 
ents which  one  takes  for 
chiefs,  of  all  kinds  and 
sizes,  the  most  valued 
among  which  will  be  British 
soldier  coats,  flaunting  red, 
with  gaud\-  gold-lace  and 
plenty  ot  brass  buttons : 
European  hats,  and  red 
umbrellas,  tooting  horns, 
music  boxes,  clocks,  matches,  razors,  knives,  bells,  rings, 
bracelets,  metal  belts    and   jewelled  weapons,   needles,    sewing 


KHARTOUM    NKGRO. 


Il6  SULTAN     TO     SUITAN. 

thread,  pins,  fishhooks,  tops,  kites,  dolls,  picture  books,  clay 
pipes,  tobacco,  snuff,  tea,  sugar,  silverware,  china  cups,  knives, 
spoons  and  forks,  paint  boxes,  mirrors,  sewing  machines,  tools. 

Needless  to  say,  great  thought  and  attention  are  required, 
and  one  must  profit  b)'  the  experience  of  other  travellers 
in  order  to  avoitl  falling  into  mistakes  which  it  is  impossible 
to  rectify  after  once  leaving  the  coast,  if  indeed  one  can 
rectify  them  at  the  coast.  All  of  these  loads  must  be 
weighed,  numbered,  and  allotted  to  the  men  and  rear- 
ranged, or  as  they  sa\-  in  Africa,  tangeiiezcd,  from  time  to 
time,  as  one  journeys  on,  according  as  articles  are  taken 
from  different  packages,  in  order  to  fairly  distribute  the 
work  upon  all  of  the  porters  throughout  the  caravan  ;  then, 
too,  as  illness  alwaj-s  ensues  after  one  has  been  out  on 
safari  a  few  days,  the  sick  must  be  relieved  of  the 
burden  of  full  loads,  if  not,  indeed,  relieved  altogether,  and 
they  themselves  carried  in  hammocks.  This  unloading, 
tangenezing ,  as  it  were,  as  one  j^roceeds,  is  both  advanta- 
geous and  necessary.  Almost  daily  can  be  gauged  the 
depletion  of  supplies,  and  extravagance  checked  ;  it  also 
affords  an  opportunity  to  detect  pilfering,  and  discover  if 
loads  have  been  discarded,  sometimes  in  time  to  recover 
them. 

One  possessed  ot  a  spark  of  humanity  will  not  leave  a  sick 
man  by  the  roadside  to  die  of  starvation,  and  even  become, 
alive  or  dead,  food  for  the  vultures  and  prowling  animals ; 
hence,  if  the    afflicted    is    too   ill    to    walk,  two    of    his    com- 


THE     FIRSl'     MARCH. 


117 


\VH1ULL\(.;    DLRVI.ilIKS    slilvN    AT    ZANZIBAR. 


panions  are  obliged  to  be  relieved  of  their  loads  and  carry 
him  ;  in  order  to  do  this  the  contents  of  these  loads  must 
be  distributed  to  the  other  porters.  They  have  no  objection^ 
to  carrying  a  inzimga  (white  man),  but  they  very  nuich 
object  to  carrying  a  {&\\o\\ pagazi  (porter). 

However,  I  found  it  an  admirable  method  to  quietly 
say  to  an  objecting  porter,  "  Look  here,  my  man,  to-mor- 
row )ou  ma)-  be  ill,  and  if  )ou  object  to  carrj-  )our 
companion  to-day,  who  will  then  be  willing  to  carry  you 
when  you  are  stricken  ?  We  will  leave  you  to  your  fate, 
the  prey  to  the  wild  beasts  !     Come,  come,  fall   in    line  !  " 


ii8 


SULTAN     TO     Sri.TAN. 


This  usually  ended  all  grumbling ;  for  the  dissenter, 
seeing  there  was  no  chance  to  shirk,  would  assume  his  part 
of  the  burden.  The  end  was  accomplished ;  he  did  his 
duty,  although  too  often  with  ill  grace. 

The  method  of  dealing  out  rice, 
which  is  carried  for  poslio  or  rations 
during  the  first  eight  or  nine  days 
from  the  coast  in  bulk  of  sixty 
pounds  in  a  kaiida, —  a  long  and 
narrow  matting  bag,  broadest  at  the 
bottom, —  is  somewhat  peculiar.  A 
brass  measure,  like  a  straight  tumbler, 
called  a  kababa,  which  should  legiti- 
mately bear  upon  it  the  offiical  im- 
print of  the  Sultan,  resembling  the 
figure  "8,"  holding  about  a  pint  of 
rice,  is  the  accepted  dole  ;  but  in 
lieu  of  this,  the  headman  of  head- 
men will  deal  out  the  portions  by 
putting  his  two  hands  together  and 
allowing    the     orain     to     rest    within 


NATIVE    SOLDIER. 


SO  that  none  of  it  falls  over  when  he  shakes  his  hands. 
The  amount  eiven  to  the  men  varies  accordino-  to  the  rank 
of   eacii    man. 

Porters,  carrying  the  heavy  loads,  are  paid  the  least  and 
receive  the  smallest  poslio;  the  headmen,  who  are  paid  the 
largest    price    ami  never    carry  even    their  own    mats,   receive 


THE     KIRST     MARCH. 


119 


four  to  five  times  the  amount  of  food  or  allowance,  and  their 
wages  are  in  proportion  larger.  However,  I  was  obliged  to 
submit  to  the  usage  of  the  country,  believing  it  must  have 
virtue  from  its  time-honored   existence. 

The  small  (quantity  of  food  that  each 
man  eats  daily  would  seem  hardly  to 
suffice  for  the  maintenance  of  his  strencrth, 
but  the\-  as  a  whole  are  comparatively 
hearty  and,  as  a  rule,  thrive  when  on 
safari,  and  if  treated  fairl)-,  seldom  are 
sullen  or  murmur,  unless  it  is  very  cold ; 
then  they  begin  to  ask  for  meat,  and  for 
more  cloth,  as  they  huddle,  utterly  misera- 
ble, with  teeth  chatterinof,  round  their  fires 
in  the  open,  sometimes  the  rain  pelting 
furiously  down  upon  their  half-naked 
bodies. 

During  a  noonday  halt  or  a  tew  min- 
utes' rest  to  catch  breath  after  a  stiffish 
climb,  it  is  verv  amusing  to  see  the 
porters  making  cigarettes,  or  extract  from 
their  turbans,  where  they  were  placed  for  safety  and  con- 
venience, little  pipes,  draw  a  few  whiffs,  then  pass  them  on 
to  their  less  fortunate  comrades,  and  in  five  or  ten  minutes 
be  ready  and  content  to  start  again,  apparentl)'  thoroughly 
refreshed,  if  not  docile  and  obedient  to  the  demand  of  their 
bwana  (master). 


XAIIVE    SOLDIER. 


I20 


SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 


They  carry  water  in  calabashes  until  they  get  in  the 
mooted  vicinity  of  pools  or  streams,  when  they  hastily  empty 
them,  averse  to  carry  the  additional  weight.  This  frequently 
causes  great  distress  among  the  men,  for 
water  too  often  fails,  or  is  unfit  to 
drink  in  welhknown  localities  ;  then  their 
rashness  becomes  obvious,  too  late  to 
remed)-,  yet  they  never  profit  by  expe- 
rience. 

W'hen  a  ilifficult  journey  is  being 
maele  and  the  men  are  fagged,  there  is 
always  one  man  near  the  head  of  the 
carax'an  who  starts  up  in  a  loud 
\'oice  a  song  of  encouragement ;  the 
drift  of  it  is  that  tliej'  are  paid  for 
work  and  that  they  must  be  faithful, 
and  when  the  j(iiu'ne)'  is  finished  or 
the  day  is  done,  they  may  rest  and 
sing,  dance  and  eat,  and  all  this  for 
their  bra\'e  Invaiia.  Then  the)'  have 
songs  of  emulation,  which  are  directed,  with  caressing  policy, 
toward  their  leader,  the  Invajia ;  the  rhythm  is  very  (juaint, 
and  the  terminal  chorus  resembles  a  hunter's  call,  with  a 
succession  of  long-drawn  sounds.  As  far  as  I  could  ascertain, 
these  sounds  did  not  represent  articulations,  but  were  a  spe- 
cies of  rally  whoops  and  yells,  as  well  as  a  tone  pledge  of  ac- 
quiescence in  a  crude  way  very  much  esembling  Tyrolean  trills. 


NATI\E    SIILDIER. 


THE     FIRST     MARCH. 


121 


Swahali  porters,  collectiv^ely  called  Zanzibaris,  natives  of 
almost  every  different  African  province,  reveal  their  nativity 
by  the  manner  in  which  they  naturally  carry  their  loads. 
A  Zanzibari  proper  never  carries  a  load  on  his  sliouldcrs, 
and  his  head  seems 
provided  with  a  thick- 
ness of  scalp  for  his 
accustomed  duty  ;  just 
as  the  Wa-mawenzi 
ha\"e  a  muscular  de- 
velopment on  their 
shoulders  in  cons  e- 
quence  of  their  habit 
of  carrying  loads  upon 
them  ;  and  if  on  safari 
there  is  to  be  taken 
a  palanquin  or  a 
hammock,  which  re- 
quires the  services  of  \^ 
two    or    more    bearers,  nati\  k  wan  r-i  akkii  ks. 

the  leader  should  alwa)-s  aim  to  provide  himself  with 
Wa-mawenzi  pagazi,  otherwise  he  will  be  made  very  uncom- 
fortable, thrust  upon  the  heads  of  the  others,  swinging 
mid-air  in  a  craz)'  way.  The  Zanzibaris  carry  their  loads 
sometimes  balanced  with  their  hands  extendecl  overhead,  on 
either  side  of  the  load,  but  with  their  bodies  and  heads 
perfectly    erect,    never    looking     at    the    immediate    footpath, 


122 


SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 


avoiding    with    deftness    the    overhanging    branches    or 
side  projections.      They  put  one  foot  cHrectly  in    line  of 
the  other,  without  turning  the    toes    out,   making  a  very     f 
narrow  tread.  f 

This  is  a  most  difficult  wa)'  for  a  European  to  walk, 
antl   I   experienced  great  awkwardness  in  trying  to  stride     , 
from  side  to  side    of   paths  that    we    followed,  or  across 
the  tiny  water  beds    of    mountain    rills,   because    it    was 

impossible  to  walk 
without  stumbline, 
or  stepping  on  m)-    | 
own     heels,     in     a 
four-inch  track. 

The)'  univer- 
sall)'  carry  long 
stout  staffs,  cut  by 
the  way  in  an  ad- 
jacent bosk,  which 
they  thrust  ahead 
of  them,  and  bear 
upon  when  ascend- 


-MAi.r,  c;\ME. 


mountains,    and 


employ    to    sound    streams    when    fording,  in    order    to 

find  and  avoid  water-holes.     The    staff   at  night   serves 

as    one    of     the    props    on     which     they  stretch     their 
tent    cloth. 


MASAI 
SPEAR. 


THE     FIRST     MARCH. 


123 


The  Wa-mawenzi  thrust  a  pole  through  the  cords  of  their 
packs  which  they  stick  in  the  eartli  and  prop  against  a  tree  to 
support  them,  and  never  place  the  loads  on  the  ground  when 
on    the    march. 

Frequently, 
when  the  roads 
are  \-ery  muddy 
and  slippery,  the 
mud,  being  of  a 
sticky  clay  con- 
sistency, adheres 
to  their  feet,  and 
accumulates  all 
the  particles  of 
erass  and  stones 
until  they  are 
obliged  to  stop 
and  scrape  it  off, 
the    weieht    be- 


TRAliF.    CLOTHS. 


comes  such  a  great  hindrance  to  their  progress.  The  tenacity 
of  this  mud  and  its  depth  at  times,  in  consequence  of  the  pre- 
vailing rains,  caused  me  great  personal  difficulty.  I  was  obliged 
to  have  one  of  my  porters,  with  his  bayonet,  excavate  places 
for  me  to  thrust  my  toes,  in  order  that  I  could  walk  up- 
right   instead  of   going    on  all    fours  or  falling  backward. 

The  refracted    heat  and   glare,  which  most  travellers  com- 
plain bitterly  of,  reflected  from  the  red  and  white  sand,  I   was 


124 


SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 


fortunate  in  being  spared,  as  the  season  was  auspicious  and 
vegetation  very  abundant.  But  even  the  blaze  of  the  sun,  as 
it  bursts  suddenly  from  behind  lugubrious  clouds,  will  affect 
the  eyes  of  one  unused  to  it,  and  bring  about  serious  affec- 
tion of  the  vision.      By  using  colored  glasses    with    side    pro- 


POMI'.E    CUPS. 

tectors,  this  is  easily  mitigated.  When  approaching  the  na- 
tives I  was  always  obliged  to  remove  my  goggles ;  for  they 
were  terrified  whenever  the)-  caught  sight  of  them,  and  would 
run  away,   screaming  in   fright. 

This  calls  to  mind  an  incident  which  occurred  on  the 
plains  of  Taro.  After  having  thoughtlessly  kept  my  goggles 
on,  and  the  natives  had  experienced  the  usual  scare,  I 
endeavored    to    coax    them    back,  trying    to    amuse    them    by 


THE     FIRST     MARCH. 


showing  them  some  pictures,  which  they  chci  not  comprehend, 
and  finally  started  my  music  box  to  play.  This  delighted  them 
so  that  they  forgot  all  about  the  spectacles,  which  I  had  in 
the  mean  while  cautiously  removed. 

When  a  large  throng  of  natives  was  about  me,  feeling 
thirsty,  I  ate  an  orange,  and  the  idea  popped  into  my  head 
that  one  of  the  pranks  of  my  childhood  might  amuse  them.  So 
I  cut  a  quarter  section  of  the  orange  skin  into  points  in  imita- 
tion of  teeth,  and  pressed  them 
over  my  own  teeth,  operating 
them  by  opening  and  closing 
my  mouth.  This  delighted  the 
natives  beyond  expression,  and 
an  old  chief  besought  me  for 
the  coveted  sham  ;  in  his  de- 
light at  procuring  the  trophy, 
he  started  off  in  great  haste, 
soon  returning  with  the  blood 
streaming  from  his  mouth,  and] 
a  great  splendid  tooth,  which | 
he  had  just  extracted,  as  a 
eift  to  me.  He  sat  down 
when  I  had  inspected  it,  and 
commenced  to  puncture  a  hole 
through  it  in  order  that  I  might  string  it  round  my  neck 
as  a  charm  against  hunger. 

He    indicated    this    to    me    by  saying,     "  Chukula,"    which 


GOURD    WATER    BOTTLE. 


126 


SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 


means  "  food,"  and  then  touching  his  stomach  with  his  hands, 
took  the  tooth  and  pressed  it  over  his  stomach,  saying, 
"  A-i-e,  la-la,"  which  meant  that  hunger  would  sleep. 

Their  gestures  are  so  very  significant  that  any  one  who 
pays  heed  must  understand  what  they  desire  to  indicate, 
without  being  able  to  comprehend  a  single  word  of  their 
language.  I  have  thought,  since  returning  from  Africa,  that 
a  clever  and  thoroughly  good-natured  pantomimist  might  be 
able  to  reach  the  intelligence  of  the  natives  more  effectually 
than  any  other  person. 

A  native  desiring  to  tell  me  he  had  plenty  of  bananas  on  his 
plantation,  which  he;  was  cai^rr  1    should  visit,  took  a  bunch  of 

bananas,  put  it  down 
in  front  of  me,  pulled 
several  of  the  bana- 
nas off,  surrounded 
me  by  placing  one 
after  the  other  in  a 
circular  row,  then 
lifted  up  the  bunch 
and  placed  it  succes- 
sively beside  each 
one  of  the  distributed 
bananas.     The  whole 


BRASS    t  HAIN'    NF.CKI,ACE. 


thing  revealed  so  clearly  what  he  meant,  that  when  m\-  inter- 
preter interrogated  him  on  the  point,  it  corroborated  my  idea ; 
for  it  transpired  that  he  owned  a  plantation  which  he  averred 


THE     FIRST     MARCH.  12/ 

was  fruitful  enough  to  provide  the  whole  caravan ;  and  as  iny 
porters  wanted  the  fruit  and  he  wanted  to  barter  it  for  their 
beads  and  cloth,  a  bargain  was  at  once  struck. 

Many  of  their  antics  in  their  sign  language  are  not  only 
grotesque,  but  childish.  I  was  remarking  to  an  elder  in  a  cer- 
tain tribe  upon  the  fact  that  I  saw  very  few  deformed  people, 
and  none  lame,  when  a  native  doubled  himself  up  in  a  sitting 
posture  and  commenced  to  hop  before  me.  When  he  con- 
cluded this  little  performance  and  again  stood  erect,  he 
pointed  with  his  tongue  to  his  village,  and  made  me  under- 
stand that  in  it  there  was  a  man  in  this  condition,  and  he 
wanted  some  da^ucx,  or  medicine,  for  him.  This  was  verified 
when  I  accompanied  him  to  his  village.  He  took  me  forth- 
with to  a  hut  where  a  lame  man  sat  upon  a  long  wooden 
framework  which  he  used  for  his  bed  as  well  as  his  work- 
table, —  a  cripple  from  some  accident  which  had  occurred  in 
his  early  youth ;  however,  he  was  so  useful  to  his  people, 
even  as  a  boy,  —  he  is  a  clever  craftsman  now,  —  that  he 
had  not  died  young  ;  like  true  Spartans,  these  natives  adhere 
to  the  idea  that  if  nature  has  frowned  upon  a  human  being, 
it  is  their  duty  to  see  that  he  does  not  eke  out  a  life  of 
misery  or  dependence. 

Whatever  they  may  resort  to  I  am  not  able  to  state,  but 
it  is  an  exceptional  thing  to  find  adult  cripples  in  Africa. 
This  idea  may  also  explain  the  fact  that  there  are  no  de- 
crepit old  people ;  but  as  they  do  not  allow  even  outside 
tribes  to  know  of  the  deaths  that  occur  among  them,  I   think 


128  SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 

it  would  be  very  difficult  to  trace  the  time  and  method  used 
to  put  .  away  those  who  promise  to  be  either  imbecile  or 
helpless.  If  a  woman  gives  birth  to  twins,  one  of  these 
sio-nificantly  dies  ;  if  an  animal  has  twins,  not  only  are  the 
twins  slaughtered,  but  the  mother  is  slaughtered  also,  for  her 
prolificness  is  regarded  as  an  omen  of  bad  luck.  There 
is    something    mnre  subtle   than     I     could    discover    actuating 

them  in  these  seem- 
ingly      senseless 
deeds,    based   un- 
Idoubtedly  upon  some 
long-abiding  supersti- 
Ition.     I  was  informed 
o  f    seve  ral    cases 
of    women     being 
EAR  ORNAMENT  MADE  OF  WART  HOG  TUSKS.  killed  who   had  been 

considered  traitors  by  taking  lovers  in  a  tribe  hostile  to  their 
own,  to  whom  they  confessed  having  revealed  the  secrets  of 
their  own  people.  Without  loss  of  time  they  were  summarily 
killed,  in  accordance  with  an  arbitrary  law  among  themselves. 
A  Masai  woman  of  considerable  importance,  trusted  as  a  pur- 
veyor between  her  own  and  hostile  tribes,  was  discovered  false 
to  her  tribal  allegiance,  having  formed  a  liason  with  an  enemy. 
She  was  thrown,  so  goes  the  story,  with  her  abundant  adorn- 
ments of  metal  coils  incasing  her  legs,  arms,  and  neck,  into  a 
smelting  furnace  to  be  consumed  by  fierce  flames.  Her  forty  or 
fifty  pounds  of  metal  ornaments  in  due  time  melted  into  a  mass. 


THE     FIRST     MARCH.  "  I  29 

Little  chunks  of  iron  alloyed  with  copper  and  brass,  dis- 
playing tiny  glints  of  colored  glass,  all  fused  together  and 
reputed  to  be  of  the  unfortunate  woman's  worldly  splendors, 
are  given  to  or  forced  upon  an  enemy  as  a  token  of  bad 
luck.  .Surreptitiously,  at  my  solicitation,  my  headman  procured 
for  me  a  bit  of  the  stigmatized  metal.  Men  who  are  traitors 
are  punished  with  more  rigor,  and  with  an  idea  of  spectacu- 
ular  example.  The  man  is  tied  to  a  tree,  and  all  the  men 
in  the  tribe  will  come  and  stick  him  with  their  knives,  at  first 
just  enough  to  make  the  blood  flow;  then  these  stabs  are 
given  with  increasing  violence  until  the  knives  enter  deep  into 
the  flesh,  and  the  culprit  quivers  from  head  to  foot  in  supreme 
agony ;  never,  however,  uttering  a  sound,  but  stoically  endur- 
ing the  punishment  as  his  life  ebbs  out.  His  body  is  then 
allowed  to  remain  the  prey  of  rapacious  vultures  and  hyenas, 
until  there  is  nothing  but  a  few  bones  and  the  ropes  left. 

The  name  of  the  traitor  is  never  mentioned,  and  should 
one  of  his  children  —  it  he  have  an)' —  bear  his  tabooed  name, 
the  child  receives  a  new  name ;  and  in  speaking  of  this 
man,  his  widow  or  family  say,  "  He  who  has  gone  to  the 
black  world,"  evidencing  that  they  have  an  idea  of  purgatory  or 
of  the  more  enlightened,  dogmatic,  fiery  regions. 


I30 


SULTAN    TO     SULTAN. 


CHAPTER   VI. 

FIRST   ALAR\L      EXCITABLE    PORTERS. 

IMAMA!  simama!  Bebe!  (Stop!  stop! 
lady!)  suddenly  yelled  my  askari, 
"  Masai !  Masai  !  "  This  was  cer- 
tainly a  trying  moment.  The  por- 
ters at  once  launched  forth  into  a 
voluble,  rapid  gibberish,  out  of 
I  which  I  could  barely  distinguish 
here  and  there  a  word  I  could 
comprehend. 

But  "  Masai !  Masai !  "  predomi- 
nated, and  every  man  was  pointing  to  certain  vague  objects 
far  away  in  advance  on  our  line  of  march,  and  manifested 
unfeigned  alarm  and  fear.  The  result  was  wild  confusion, 
which  I  realized  would  lead  on  to  a  decided  panic,  if  not 
promptly  checked. 

My  field  glasses  revealed  the  cause  to  be  the  presence  of 
several  almost  nude  natives  armed  only  with  bows  and  arrows, 
and  carrying  a  few  calabashes  and  water-skins,  who  were  dodg- 
ing through  the  long  grass  and  thick  undergrowth  in  a  coy, 
timid  fashion,   far  from    indicating    hostility  or    aggressiveness. 


FIRST     ALARM.       EXCITAliI.E     PORTERS. 


I  U 


Quickly  halting  iny  men,  I  proceeded  to  meet  these 
natives,  accompanied  by  an  interpreter  and  two  askari,  who 
carried  our  Masai  flag  of  truce  and  my  little  American  mas- 
cot. Seeing  us  advance  without  fear  or  threats,  they  squatted 
abjectly  upon  the  ground,  their  long  bows  and  arrows  planted 
straight  up  and  down  in  front  of  them,  their  startled  coun- 
tenances, with 
ej-es  opened  wide 
in  amazement, 
speechless  to  see 
such  a  strano; 
apparition  of  a 
mziinga  (whit(> 
man)  as  I  pre- 
sented. 

To  remove! 
their  lurking  ap- 
prehension as  to 
our  actual  inten- 
tion, I  gave  them  several  name  rings,  and  Josete  imparted 
to  them  the  elaborated  statement  that  Bebe  was  a  white 
queen  of  limitless  power  coming  to  make  triends  with  them 
and  to  bring  them  many  beautiful  tokens  of  peace.  To  all 
of  which  they  quizzically  ejaculated,  "  A-i-e !  a-i-e !  "  more 
amazed  than  before.  Finally  among  themselves  they  talked 
in  a  subdued  tone,  casting  inquisitive  glances  at  me,  evi- 
dently stud)ing  my  attire,  and  christened  me  "  Bebe  Bwana" 


WAIT-A-BIT   TREE. 


132 


SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 


(woman  master);  a  sobriquet  that  was  spon- 
taneously and  universally  bestowed  upon  me  as 
a  satisfactory  and  all-sufficient  appellation  b)-  all 
natives  whom  I  met  in  East  Africa ;  and  this 
too  with  a  certain  directness  and  aptness  that 
surprised  me,  not  only  in  this  title,  but  respect- 
ing the  full  meaning  of  all  of  their  nouns. 
Sometimes  they  were  no  other  than  adjecti\'al 
substantives  in  their  cogent  expressiveness  of  a 
like  thing  and  kind  combined. 

These  natives  were  stray  sellers  of  cala- 
bashes, and  gee,  a  substitute  for  butter  made 
from  goat's  milk,  strong  smelling  and  rancid 
llavored,  )'et  prized  highly  by  natives  and  Zanzi- 
baris  and  even  white  men  on  safari.  They  had 
meandered  three  days  away  from  their  settle- 
ment of  Teita,  in  hopes  to  dispose  of  their 
produce  and  wares.  They  maintain  themselves 
by  their  bows  and  arrows  and  the  wild  fruits 
found  on  all  sides,  carrying  a  small  supply  of 
maize,  sugar-cane,  and  bananas,  and  sleeping 
under  the  shadow  of  the  trees.  As  fine,  fearless 
children  of  either  forest,  plain,  or  mountain,  these 
specimens  could  not  be  regarded  as  types. 
After  the  scare  had  subsided  and  we  had  resumed  our 
march,  meditating  over  the  alarm  exhibited  by  my  valiant 
little  army  on   such  slight  provocation,  I   could  not    but  expe- 


BRASS    BEADS. 


FIRST     ALARM.       EXCITABLE     PORTERS. 


'OJ 


LUNCHEON    IN    THE    OPEN. 

rience  a  qualm  of  insecurity,  and  for  tlie  first  time  fully  real- 
ized the  terror  the  African  bogy-man — the  Masai  —  struck 
to  the  Zanzibaris  heart.  It  was  too  late  to  repent,  there 
was  no  chance  for  me  to  abandon  the  venture  I  had  so 
confidently  embarked  upon,  if  I  had  so  desired ;  therefore 
with  a  more  serious  sense  of  personal  responsibility,  and 
an  awakening    to    the    necessary  requirement   of     self-govern- 


134 


SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 


ment,  in  order  to  hold  indubitable  sway  over  my  men,  I 
bent  my  every  thought,  with  more  absolute  determination  to 
accomplish  my  aims  at  every  sacrifice  apart  from  relinquish- 
ment of  personal  dignity,  and  by  the  enforcement  of  disci- 
pline and  exaction  of  duty  and  obedience  by  any  means 
short  of  inhumanity. 

Bravery  and  fearlessness  have  nothing  akin  to  reckless- 
ness or  heedless  disregard  of  consequences.  This  statement 
is  made  in  the  full  consciousness  of  the  fact  that  during 
moments  of  sudden  emergency,  action  must  be  taken  with- 
out tardy  deliberation  at  the 
time.  However,  previous  train- 
ing and  consideration  of  possi- 
ble peril,  and  general  adapta- 
tion of  wa}'s  and  means,  with 
a  cool,  well-balanced  head, 
nerve,  and  tact,  stand  in  the 
gap  as  a  bulwark  of  power    and   unfaltering  wisdom. 

My  constant  study  was  to  know  my  porters,  to  learn 
their  personal  characteristics,  and  to  put  each  man  at  his 
best.  The  tax  upon  my  judgment  was  great,  tor  these 
untutored  fellows  are  creatures  of  ungovernable  passion. 
If  one  porter  calls  another  "  a  goat,"  like  a  flash  the 
affronted  man  whips  out  his  knife  and  makes  a  vicious  lunge 
at  the  gross  insulter;  unless  authorized  interference  puts  a 
stop  to  these  accessions  of  murderous  passion,  the  result  is 
likely    to    be    a    tragedy.      Nothing    is    so    effectual    as    the 


INLAID    WOODEN    FOWL. 


FIRST     ALARM.        EXCITAllLE     PORTERS. 


135 


time-honored  stick,  the  kibosh.  I  have  been  much  maligned, 
and  accused  of  ruthlessly  Hogging  the  iiaik'es/  I  do  not 
feel  called  upon  to  explain  on  this  score,  yet  will  state  the 
facts,  so  as  to  prevent  misunderstanding  in  the  minds  of 
truth  seekers. 

One  day  a  porter  in  anger  stabbed  one  of  his  comrades 
through  and  through  his  body,  imperilling  his  life.  He  was 
floo-oed. 

Another  porter  violently  pitched  upon  and  brutally  hurled 
to  the  ground  the  daughter  of  a  chief,  for  no  greater  offence 
than  that  she  persistently  offered  some  sweet  corn  for  sale, 
after  he  had  or- 
dered her  to  quit 
the  encampment, 
which,  by  the 
wa)',  was  occupy- 
ing the  grounds 
of  the  native 
market  place. 
This  act  came 
very  near  em- 
broiling- me  with 
the  natives.  The 
man  was  flogged. 

Another  hot-headed  porter,  maddened  out  of  his  reason, 
if  he  ever  had  any,  wrested  a  rifle  from  a  comrade's  hands 
and  shot  at  the  headman,  who  had  enraged  him  by  assigning 


WOODEN    POT. 


n6  SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 


'O 


to  him  a  load  he  objected  to  carry,  missing'  his  victim  b\'  a 
hair's  breadth.      He  was  flogged. 

In  glancing  over  my  black  list  and  counting  the  men  who 
were    flogged    during    my    entire   safari,    the    actual     nimiber 

does    not    exceed,    in    fact    does 

not    attain,     the     fingers    of    my 

two    hands. 

Starting    out   on    my  expedi- 
jtion,    I    fondly    nursed    the    idea 

that    the    porters    could  be   gov- 
iNLAiD  \vooDE^f  BOWL.  emcd     by    kindness    and     moral 

suasion,  and  that  the  discipline  so  necessary  to  their  own 
individual  safety,  as  well  as  the  safety  of  the  expedition, 
could  be  consistently  maintained  without  resorting"  to  the 
usual  punishment  with  the  stick.  This  cherished  belief  was 
soon  modified  by  actual  experience.  I  found  that  discipline 
could  only  be  maintained  by  chastising  serious  oftenders  in 
the  accepted  way, — a  method  familiar  to  them  and  approved 
by  the  sentiments  of  their  comrades.  Coaxing  arguments 
and  persuasive  talks  were  disregarded  and  sneeringly  laughed 
at,  probably  the  more  so  because  /,  flicii-  leader,  was  a  woman. 
As  time  wore  on,  they  found  that  I  was  always  at  the  head 
of  my  caravan,  and  if  there  was  any  danger  to  be  encountered 
that  they  could  rely  upon  me  ;  soon  they  were  imbued  with 
confidence  and  respect.  They  found,  also,  that  wilful  offenders 
would  suffer  just  punishment,  that  orders  must  be  obeyed 
without  demur,   that   no  idle  threats  were  used,   that  promises 


FIRST     ALARM.       FACITABI.E     PORTERS. 


|J7 


were  cautiously  given  but  religiously  kept,  that  yes  meant 
yes,  and  no,  no ;  that  if  any  of  them  fell  ill,  I  personally 
attended  them  daily,  setting  their  broken  bones,  dressing 
their  wounds  or  administering  needed  medicines,  and  having 
them  carried  when  disabled. 

The  result  was  that  I  soon  obtained  complete  control  over 
every  man.  I  do  not  think  I  could  have  succeeded  in  this 
if  I  had  not  most  unwillingly  changed  my  lifelong  ideas 
about  whipping.  An  appeal  to 
physical  force  has  always  seemed 
to  me  to  be  brutal,  and  degrad- 
ing alike  to  victim  and  adminis- 
trator. However,  circumstances 
alter  cases.  A  caravan  on  safari 
as  a  travelling  community  must 
have  order  and  laws  of  its  own 
for  the  safety  of  the  whole ;  it 
must,  in  itself,  form  a  body 
politic  to  enforce  these  laws 
and  assist  in  the  preservation  of 
order  and  discipline. 

The  only  thing  when  a  man 
has  committed  an  offence,  and 
his  punishment  has  been  agreed  ixig-shaitd  beads. 

upon  by  having  his  fault  submitted  to  a  jury  of  five  or  six 
of  his  comrades,  is  to  have  the  headman  execute  it  promptly, 
and  if  the  culprit  shows  signs  of  atonement,   never  to  permit 


138 


SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 


him  to  be  nagged  or  twitted ;  instead,  to  accept  his  good 
behavior  for  all  it  would  seem  to  indicate.  Other  methods 
of  punishment  are  particularl)-  cruel,   and  disable  the  men. 

There    is,  without   exaggeration,   more  real   good    than    in- 
tended evil  in   the  Zanzibaris,   if   they  are    properly   and    judi- 
ciously treated.     They  have  patience,  obedi- 
ence, devotion,   and  above  all,  pride. 

A  circumstance  revealing  the  pride  ani- 
mating them  to  excel  each  other  and  win 
some  meed  of  praise  may  be  best  illustrated 
by  the  following  story  connected  with  one 
of  my  porters,  known  as  the  "strong  man" 
in  the  caravan  :  — 

Among  the  baggage  was  a  long  tin 
uniform  case,  which,  because  of  its  weight, 
was  a  double  load ;  I  fully  e.xpected  to 
have  had  it  carried  between  two  men,  but 
after  a  few  marches  this  plan  was  found  to 
be  exceeding!)-  awkward,  owing  to  the 
steep,  rugged  country  we  traversed,  so,  with  discontent, 
the  porters  put  down  the  load  upon  the  ground  after  a 
difficult  day's  march.  My  attention  was  drawn  to  them  b_\-  the 
confusion  that  ensued.  Getting  at  the  true  inwardness  ot  the 
commotion,  I  called  all  the  porters  together,  and  stepped 
before  them  to  tr)'  ni)-  art  in  soothing  their  fretted  tempers. 
"  Here  is  a  box  which  is  a  double  load  ;  I  have  heard  a 
great  deal  concerning  the  renown  of   a  strong  pagazi  in   this 


DAWA     BEADS. 


FIRST     ALARM.        EXCITABLE     I'ORTERS. 


139 


caravan.  Now,  where  is  that  strong  pagazi?  A  man  who 
earns  double  money  and  double  poslio,  because  he  does  the 
work  of  two  men  ?  " 

There  was  a  de- 
cided rustle,  then  a 

jostling  and  parting  >^  ^.^^   '      ^ 

at  the  back  of  the 
throng  of  porters, 
and  forcing  his  way 
through  there  came 
forward  a  tall,  stal- 
wart fellow,  with  a 
beaminor  face,  his 
smiling  open  mouth  jewelled  sword  give.n'  sultan  ^LA^'DAR.A. 

revealing  his  glittering  teeth.  He  stood  out  conspicuously 
apart  irom  the  others,  and  announced  proudly,  "  Bebe,  I 
am  that  strong  man."  Then  whirling  himself  like  a  spinning 
top  round  on  his  heels  to  display  his  muscular  superiority,  he 
stretched  out  both  his  arms,  clinched  his  fists  and  forcibly 
drew  them  tightly  up  to  show  off  his  pronoimced  biceps, 
saying,    "  Bebe,  command  me." 

Indicating  the  box  with  my  staff  to  him,  he  salaamed,  and 
grasped  the  handle  of  the  great  tin  box,  and  with  one  single 
swing  lifted  it  clean  and  imfalteringl)'  from  the  ground  onto 
his,  I  presume,  thick  head,  balanced  it  there,  and  walked 
oft  triumphantly,  sending  a  song  of  defiance  and  rally  to  the 
other  porters,  who  gave  vent    to  their   adulations   by   slapping 


I40 


SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 


their   naked    thighs,     by     nods,    and    a    general     hubbub    such 
as  only  a  Zanzibari  cara\'an  can   make. 

This  same  porter  had  as  tremendous  a  voice  as  he  had 
a  body,  and  was  always  talking  garrulously,  and  roaring  out 
in  thunderous  tones  when  we  were  on  the  march  ;  and  as  he 
had  naturally  taken  his  post,  as  a  man  of  entitled  honor,  in 
close  proximity  to  my  ears,  frequently  I  thought  he  would 
drive  me  distracted.      No  sooner  was  one    story  finished  than 

this  inexhaustible  narrator  com- 
menced another,  and  no  com- 
rade dared  interrupt  or  gainsay 
him.  One  day,  when  my  nerves 
were  particularly  rasped  by  his 
continual  loud-voiced  chatter,  I 
summoned  him  during  the  noon- 
day halt    to    my  pre.sence. 

"  Kara,  you  are  a  very  fine 
fellow  ;  you  do  your  work  well ; 
you  are  always  thoughtful  of 
Bebe ;  you  bring  me  beautiful 
grasses  and  flowers ;  no  fire  is 
so  bright  as  the  one  you  build 
for  me ;  nevertheless  I  cannot 
have  you  screaming  as  you  do 
behind  my  ears,  and  if  it  con- 
tinues I   shall  be  obliged  to  order  you   to  the    rear." 

He  made    me    profuse,   emphatic    promises    to    correct   his 


KNOB    KERRY    STICKS. 


FIRST     ALARM.       EXCITAHI.K     PORTERS. 


141 


error,  saying,  as  he  again  .struck  his  Ijreast  with  his  sledge- 
hammer fist,  "  Bebc  Bwana,  you  .see  I  am  so  big  in  the 
lungs,  and  my  voice  is  as  big  as 
I  am  strong." 

To  this  1  quite  agreed,  assur- 
ing him,  whereas,  I  did  not  wish 
to  diminish  his  strength,  I  did 
care  to  silence  his  lusty  voice. 
That  day  things  went  on  very 
peacefully.  There  was  not  the 
slightest  occasion  to  complain 
of  my  Samson,  and,  in  good 
truth,  during  the  entire  day  he 
took  it  upon  himself  to  cry  out 
indignantly,  "  Kallela,"  to  silence 
his  fellow-porters  in  the  rear 
when  they,  forgettid  of  my' 
wishes,  began  to  talk  in  a  loud 
tone  of  voice.  At  night  1  called 
him  up  to  me  and  complimented 
him  on  his  effort  to  be  quiet, 
telling;  him  how  well  he  had 
pleased  me. 

With     a    burst    of   enthusiasm 
he  exclaimed,   "  Ah,   Bebe   Bwana,   I  am  so  happ)'  !  because  I 
have  sweat  prickles  from  my  marrow  all  day  tr)-ing  to  be  quiet." 

The   quaintness  of   the   remark  and  the  knowledge  of   the 


MV    UUN. 


KIR.ST     GUN    CASE 
MADE    BV    NATIVES. 


14- 


SULT.W     Ti  1     SILTAX. 


severity  with  which  the  prickly  heat  attacks  these  men, 
sufficed  for  me,  and  caused  me  to  think  him  not  inept  in 
simile. 

This  same  man  was  a  great  gormand,  and  the  prepara- 
tion of  the  food  in  the  little  knot  of  men  with  whom  he 
messed  was  a  work  of  art,  and  almost  a  work  of  devotion. 
He  tasted  the  pot,  when  the  chicken  stew  with  vegetables 
of  various  kinds  had  reached  the  point  when  it  required  to 
be  seasoned,  and  if  the  flavor  was  not  up  to  the  mark,  he 
carefully  added  the  deficient  condiments.  Before  eating  he 
always  bathed  himself  and  put  on  his  spotless,  clean  kanzu, 
a  long,  white  garment  like  a  nightdress,  fancifully  stitched 
or  embroidered  about  the  neck  ;  and  if  there  was  something 
])articularly  dainty,  according  to  his  idea,  a  choice  portion  of 
it   was  brought    with   great    flourish    to   my    tent,     and     cere- 

monioush'  proffered  to  me.  He  was 
always  the  first  to  establish  his  own 
tent  and  get  everything  shipshape  and 
comfortable  at  the  time  of  our  encamp- 
ment; and  when  his  day's  work  was 
done,  he  would  change  his  attire,  and 
seemctl  to  "^"joy  with  sensuous  delight 
the  comfort  with  which  he  had  so  deftly  surrounded  him- 
self. Unfortunately,  pot)r  Kara,  whilst  trudging  up  the  foot- 
hills of  Kilimanjaro,  was  sunstruck;  he  was  not  only  inca- 
pacitated from  carrying  a  loatl,  but  was  in  a  serious  plight 
♦or    some    days;     yet    he    would    not    surrender    his    place     of 


III'.AIiMAX. 


FIRST     ALARM.       EXCITABLE     I'ORTERS. 


143 


honor,  or  give  the  load  to  one  of  his  companions,  but,  with 
great  fortitude,  struggled  beneath  it  until  I  personally  ob- 
served his  flagging  condition,  and  was  compelled  to  authori- 
tatively interfere.  I  had  him  come  to  me,  apart  from  the 
others,  and  told  him  he  must  surrender  his  load,  and  possi- 
bly   be    carried     himself    until    we     reached    a  proper    resting 


NAT1\"E    KNIVES. 


place,   and  his  acute  agony  should    yield   to    medication.      He 
protested  with  great    vehemence,  exclaiming, — 

"What!  1,  the  strong  man  of  every  safari  I  have  ever 
undertaken,  give  up  my  chosen  load  to  one  of  those  goats? 
Oh,   no!" 

■  Then  I  said,  "  Kara,  my  good  fellow,  I  will  tell  you  what 
I  will  do.  Your  box  is  known  as  the  heavy  load.  Come, 
now,  I  will  empty  it,  and  you  will  only  have  the  weight  of 
the  box  on  your  head — just  seventeen  pounds  —  and  no  man 


144 


SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 


in   the  caravan  will  know  but  what  you   are   still  carrying  your 
heavy  weight." 

This  artifice  delighted  him,  and  he  fairly  howled  in 
barbaric  glee  when  I  dismissed  him,  to  think  he  was  going 
to    get    the     best    of    his    comrades    by  this    subterfuge,    yet 

maintain  inviolable  his 
prestige.  So  it  was 
that  Kara,  the  proud 
porter,  carried,  with 
comparative  ease,  dur- 
ing the  period  of  his 
indisposition,  for  seven 
da)-s,  the  empty  box, 
no  one  in  the  caravan, 
not  e\-cn  mv  headmen, 
knowing  that  I  had 
extracted  its  contents, 
and  had,  unsuspected, 
KARA,  siRON-G  MAN.  (.Hstribu ted     the      same 

among  other  loads  without  perceptible  increase  ot  weight. 

As  Kara  recovered  his  strength,  he  voluntarily  sought  me 
and  suCTcrested  that  the  lesfitimate  contents  of  his  box  mis-dit 
be  replaced,  saying  he  was  feeling  so  well  and  strong  and 
full  of  life  that  if  he  did  not  have  a  heavy  weight  upon  his 
head  as  a  sort  of  safety  valve,  he  should  fly  from  the  top  of 
one  of  the  mountains  and  be  dashed  to  atoms,  so  he  needed 
the  load  to  hold  him  down  and  exhaust  his  superlkious  force. 


FIRST     ALARM.       EXCITAIILE     PoRTERS.  I45 

Inadvertently  I  was  just  in  the  act  of  putting  my  foot 
upon  an  ants'  nest,  concealed  from  my  sight  by  overgrowing 
grass,  when,  like  a  whirlwind,  something  suddenly  grasped 
me  about  the  waist,  lifting  me  up  from  the  ground,  and 
seemed  to  dart  on  the  wings  of  the  air,  away  be)ond  on  the 
open  plain,  when  I  was  as  suddenly  dropped,  and  then  dis- 
covered m)-  captor  to  have  been  Kara,  my  strong  man,  as 
he  prostrated  him- 
self, his  fac  (■ 
pressed  close  on 
the  ground  in  the 
dust,   pleading    pa-  native  haxana  knife,  unpolished. 

thetically,  "Btbc  Bwana;  siafiif  siafu!"  (ants,  ants;)  so  it 
was  that  this  ever-watchful  porter,  seeing  me  unwittingly 
about  to  step  upon  the  vicious  ants,  himself  knowing  from 
sad  experience  what  a  terror  the)-  are  to  man  and  beast, 
had  dropped  his  load  and,  unceremoniously  seizing  me,  had 
carried  me  beyond  the  danger.  In  narrating  this  and  similar 
incidents  I  must  aver  that  these  half-civilized  porters, 
although  deficient  in  many  advantages  that  modern  education 
brings,  are  far  from    being    devoid    of   the    highest  chivalry. 

Apropos  of  these  ants,  they  attack  human  beings  in 
great  droves,  and  have  frequently  been  known  to  compel 
every  man  in  an  encampment  to  turn  out,  in  the  middle  of 
the  night,  and  seek  refuge  at  some  distance  away  from  the 
original  camp ;  it  is  no  uncommon  thing  to  hear  the  men 
grumbling  and  growling  at  night,   followed  by  the  flapping  of 


146  SULTAN     TO     SUI.TAN. 

their  mats,  when  trying  to  sliake  off  these  invasive  insects.  Their 
bite  is  painful,  and  poisonous  to  some  people.  They  have 
periods  of  migration,  when  they  make  long  journeys  in  vast 
armies,  devastating  a  tract  of  country  by  cropping  a  noticeable 
swath  where  they  have  traversed.  The  other  ants,  which 
build  the  strange  red-sand  structures,  looking  like  broken 
battlements  on  the  top  of  a  palace  or  bastion,  are  perhaps 
more  interesting  to  study.  Then  come  the  termites,  or  white 
ants,  which  seem  bent  on  destruction  ;  not  only  do  they  attack 
splendid  forest  trees  at  the  roots  and  work  up,  devouring  as 
they  proceed  the  body  of  the  trees,  leaving  nothing  but  the 
outer  bark,  in  perfect  semblance  of  solidity,  but  which  will 
topple  over  and  fall  into  fragments  at  the  slightest  push,  they 
will  also  attack  the  foundations  of  any  wooden  structure, 
however  massive  ;  frequently  wooden  bo.xes  that  are  put  upon 
the  ground  for  one  night  will  be  simply  riddled  by  them, 
leaving  only  a  mere  veneering  of  the  wood  itself,  however 
solid,  which  crumbles  into  dust  when  touched. 

Travellers  and  inhabitants  of  Africa  find  these  destructive 
creatures  a  great  pest,  and  the  wooden  mountings  of  man\- 
fine  instruments,  to  the  sorrow  of  explorers,  are  totally 
destroyed  without  warning.  The  native  woman  invariably 
carries  her  infant  slung  upon  her  back  in  hides  or  cloth 
while  at  work  pounding  corn  or  millet,  or  when  tilling  the 
.soil,  fearful  of  allowing  the  child  to  remain  on  the  ground 
lest  it  become  a  prey  to  the  ants. 

Mosquitoes  and  stinging  flies  Infest  Africa  In  vast    swarms 


J 

O 


O 

3 


FIRST     ALARM.       EXCITABLE     PORTERS. 


147 


during  particular  seasons,  especially  towards  and  on  the  coast. 
One  of  the  essential  articles  for  comfort  in  personal  outfit  is 
a  large,  sound  mosquito  net, 
anil  large  squares  of  gauze 
or  netting  to  wear  over  the 
sun  hat,  and  enclose  snugl)' 
the  head  and  neck;  otherwise 
the  flies  dart  into  the  travel- 
ler's eyes,  which  is  even 
more  painful  than  their  sting. 
Then,  too,  the  tlesh-bur- 
rowing  jiggers  and  grass  ticks 
cause  much  distress;  the  jig- 
gers usually  burrow  under  the 
toe  and  finger  nails,  whereas 
the  ticks  work  head  first  into 
the  flesh,  and  breed  therein 
in  a  prodigious  manner  it  not 
dug  out.  Every  one  caught  by  the  porters  is  cut  in  two.  The 
poor,  faithful  fox  terriers  which  adopted  me  from  Taveta  until 
the)-  reached  Moschi  were  simpl)-  besieged  with  these  pests, 
and  out  of  sheer  mercy  every  day  I  would  pick  and  dig 
their  tormentors  out  of  their  flesh.  The  dogs'  ears  and  groins 
were  the  favorite  spots  of  attack.  The  poor  little  animals 
would  be  maddened  in  their  helplessness  to  free  themselves. 
I  was  told  of  se\-eral  fine  docs  havincr  been  made  blind,  and 
finally  succumbing,  p(;stered   to  death  by  ticks,   and    carelessly 


WOODEN'    POT. 


148 


SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 


neglected    by    those    who    were     caring    for    them     in     their 
masters'    absence. 

Old  camping  grounds  are  to  be  consistently  avoided, 
as  they  are  more  than  likely  to  be  infested  with  jiggers,  ticks, 
lice,  antl  a  nameless  host  of   other  \'ermin. 


POMP.E    CURS    AM)    PAN    PU'E. 


A  singular  thing  occurs  respecting  the  animals  ami  color 
of  the  sand  ;  the  tones  all  seem  to  marry  one  with  the  other ; 
and  when  you  chance  to  see  a  nimiber  of  haj'tebeest,  or  deer, 
against  one  of  these  ant  structures, —  for  such  they  are, — 
you  cannot  distinguish  between  the  two  until  you  see  some 
movement  on  the  part  of  the  animals  ;  and  so  it  is  with  most 
of  the  creeping  things,  especially  the  mantis,  the  "  praying 
mantis,"  which  appear  like  the  bark  and  twigs  of  trees,  and 
\\Vv  moving  leaves  which  the}'  so  illusively  simulate  ;  even 
the  butterflies  look  like  winged  flowers,  and  will,  by  some 
strange  attraction,  settle  on  llowers  their  own  counterfeits  in 
color  and  varif^gated  condition,  and  when  they  rise  and  take 
wing,   disturbed    b\'   some    passing    thing,   th(i    first    impression 


FIRST     ALARM.       EXCITAIJLE     PORTERS. 


149 


to  the  vision  is  tliat  a  mysterious  phantom  breeze  has  blown 
the  petals  of  the  flower  off  the  parent  stem.  The  variety 
and  gorgeousness  of  these  butterflies  are  beyond  description, 
but  the  choicest  species,  according  to  collectors,  are  the  white. 


■IWIX    MKAl,    POTS. 


mottled  with  brilliant  crimson  spots,  bright  blue,  pale  green, 
yellow,  and  violet. 

Pink  locusts,  clapping  their  wings  and  harshly  chirping, 
swarmed  in  millions  over  our  heads  like  a  floatine  cloud  all 
through  one  morning. 

Another  noticeable  thing  in  the  physical  aspect  was  the 
prevalence   of    all    shades    of    heliotrope,    violet,    and    purple 


ISO 


SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 


in  the  flowers ;  and  whereas  pink  would  prevail  in  England 
or  temperate  zones,  this  tropical  East  African  nature  seemed 
to  be  more  fashionable,  and  dispense  with  the  old-time  beauties 
for  some  new  diversity  in  the  floral  world.  Clematis  is 
very  profuse,  and  a  species  of  white,  pink,  and  crimson 
magnolia,  with  oreat  waxen  buds  and  enormous  frasjrant 
flowers,  with  laree,  thick,  smooth  leaves  ;  rhododendrons  are 
gorgeous ;  balsams,  narcissus,  buttercups,  asters,  and  poppies 
star  the  erass-lands,  and  milkweed  ^alore  and  o^ladiolus,  wild 
heliotrope,  geranium,  and  orchids  of  the  rarest,  but  no  roses, 
not  even  a  sweetbrier,  to  greet  the  eye.  Every  shady  nook  is 
a  superb  fernery  of  every  variety.  Maidenhair  fern  trails  and 
twines  to  the  top  of  high  trees  in  a  prodigal  manner. 

We  constantly  met  myriads  of  land  turtles  of  rather  a 
small  variety,  and  the  porters  would  never  pass  one  without 
taking  their  staves  and  turning  it  over  on  its  back  ;  and  many 
of  the  shells  that  were  brought  to  me  for  inspection  bore  upon 
their  carapace  Arabic  characters,  showing  that  some  previous 
traveller  or  porter  in  a  caravan  had  captured  the  little  thing 
and  carved  a  device  upon   its   back,    whether   as   a  message  to 

other  caravans  or  merely 
out  of  personal  amusement 
I  am  unable  to  say,  for 
the  natural  tracings  ot  the 
mottles  of  the  shell  and 
the    characters    were     so 


intermiuCTled     that     it     was 


FIRST     AI.AKM.        EXCITAIil.E     I'OKTERS.  I5I 

impossible  to  separate  one  from  the  other.  I  picked  up 
from  Teita  throughout  my  entire  journey,  on  the  foothills 
of  Kilimanjaro  and  even  so  high  up  as  Kimangelia,  beauti- 
ful pure  white  and  delicate  brown  and  buff  helices,  some 
very   small  and  others  enormous. 

Unwilling 
to  travel 
among  these 
natives  with- 
out leavingr 
some  evidence  of  my 
presence,  I  had  taken 
the  precaution  to  have  several 
thousand  rings,  on  which  were 
engraved  m)'  name,  and  to 
every  native  with  whom  I 
personally  came  in  contact  in 
the  course  of  time  I  presented 
one  of  these  souvenirs  ;  they  were  also  most  useful  to 
tie  round  a  package  of  letters  or  send  as  an  earnest, 
affixed  to  a  seal,  to  a  mission  station,  or  when  I  required 
to  send  a  messenger  to  a  sultan  whose  country  I  desired 
to  pass  through  or  had  already  traversed.  These  little 
souvenirs  became  heralded  from  native  to  native,  and  tribe 
to  tribe,  and  I  was  alwaj's  asked  for  a  pctc  Jint,  which 
meant  a  "  name  ring."  Whilst  fitting  rings  upon  their 
fingers     I    was     enabled     to     observe    how    small     as    a    rule 


FRENCH-SHELDOX     RINGS. 


152 


SULTAN     TO     SUI.TAX. 


their  hands  were,  and  out  of  upwards  of  five  hundred  clay 
impressions  on  paper  I  took  of  feet  and  hands  of  natives 
of  various  tribes,  it  was  exceptional  to  find  a  very  large 
hand  or  foot. 


WA-NVIKA     AND     WA-DURUMA. 


'5o 


CHAPTER   VII. 

WA-NYIKA    AND    WA-DURUMA. 

HE  tract  of  plain  skirting  the 
Shimba  or  Lion  Mountains,  where 
meander  vagrant  W'a-Nyil^a  and 
Wa-Duruma,  spread  out  before  us 
as  we  started  exactly  at  five 
o'cloclc  at  sun  up,  witli  rain-laden 
clouds  overhead  rapidly  coalescing 
into  dense,  ominous  masses,  was 
certainly  most  uninviting  and  well 
entitled  to  its  name  of  the  wilder- 
E\'er)'\vhere  the  tropical  vegetation  seemed  to  offer 
a  bristling  jsrotest  to  intrusion, — euphorbias,  mimosa,  acacia, 
wait-a-bits,  cacti,  and  nettles  of  endless  variety  ;  the  most 
lovel)'  foliage  to  my  sorrow  I  too  often  found  hispid  b)-  a 
nap  of  infinitesimal  needle-points ;  the  very  grasses  were 
spiked  and  saw  or  blade  edged,  tearing,  pricking,  and  gash- 
ing alike  the  flesh  and  garb,  causing  no  end  of  discomfort, 
if  not  actual  pain. 

Sudden!)'  a    great  cackling    of    poultry    was    heard,    which 
answered  well  as  a  sounded    tocsin    to  announce    the    appear- 


154 


SULTAN    TO     SULTAN. 


ance  of  a  party  of  unseemly  Wa-Nyika  who  were  issuing 
from  the  woodlands  to  engage  in  trade  with  the  mzunga 
caravan  they  had  heard  was  coming.  A  pariah  dog  flew  at 
me,  and  to  ward  off  his  attack  I   lifted  my  Alpine  stock,  and 


POMBE    CUPS. 


at  the  same  time  discharged  a  pistol  over  his  head.  The 
dismayed  natives  were  thrown  into  a  wild  state,  and  angrily 
rushed  forward,  flourishinff  their  bows  and  arrows  in  a  threaten- 
ing  manner,  when  my  alert  askari  pointed  his  gun  at  them, 
shouting,  "Stop  !  speak!  salaam  Bebe."  When  they  discovered 
they  were  in  the  presence  of  a  white  woman,  in  consternation 
they  kept  ejaculating,  '"  Javibo !  Javibo !  Bcbe  viztmga?" 
(How  do  you  do,  lady  white  man  ?)  and  dropped  down  upon 
the  ground  in  a  squatting  position,  staring  me  quite  out  of 
countenance,  now  and  then  chatted  among  themselves  as 
though  marvelling  what  it  meant.  Soon  they  queried  the 
porters  to  know  if  there  was  a  bivana  mzunga  (a  white 
man-leader)  of  the  safari.  When  the  negative  response  was 
given,  their  amazement  did  not  abate ;  indeed,  they  were 
thrown   into  a    deeper    quandary  and  exclaimed,    "  Aief    Aie! 


WA-NVIKA     AM)     \VA-1)LMU:MA. 


155 


Aie /"  as  they  wagged  their  heads  and  riveted  their  eyes 
with  fixity  upon  me,  forgetting  their  feathered,  fhittering, 
squawking  merchandise,  which,  tethered  to  walking  poles,  had 
been  heedlessly  pitched  upon  the  ground  when  they  had 
rushed  upon  me.  Then  surged  around  me  women  and 
children,  with  equal  amazement  ami  more  audacit)-  than 
evinced  by  the  men.  They  curiously  commented  upon  my 
color,  hair,  hat,  costume,  shoes,  gloves,  crooked  staff,  and 
pistols ;  and  in  glee  yclept,  the  latter,  ni  '(0/0  hundiiki 
(baby  guns).  Language  with  all"  these  tribes  has  a  full- 
fraught  meaning,  making  clear  the  thing  they  desire  to  com- 
municate. Phrase  harlequinade  with  its  quips  and  pranks 
and  abstrusely  in- 
volved sense  is  re- 
served for  enligrht- 
enecl  supereducated 
races ;  barring-  their 
quaint  poetic  similes, 

—  and  these  too  are 
marvels  of  e.xpletives, 

—  the  natives  aptly 
short  cut  word  and 
sense. 

So  these  grovelling,  intimidated,  unclean  creatures  were 
the  men  of  the  wilderness !  Their  bodies  tattooed  indis- 
criminately without  significance,  and  smeared  with  umber- 
colored    clay   and    rancid   grease,    emitting    an    odor    far    from 


M  nni)  BiiNPUKr. 

(]iAi:v    GUNS.) 


'56 


SULTAN     TU     SULTAN. 


EOYPTIAX    Ml'SICIAN. 


agreeable    to     civilized    nostrils.       Their    teeth    filed    and    dis- 
colored, hair  bushy  and  rather  animated. 

The  men,  when  not  naked,  wore  a  bit  of  hide  about  them, 
or  a  filthy  fragment  of  cloth  ;  whereas  the  married  women 
disported    a    miserable  blue   calico  kilted    skirt,   reaching    half- 


WA-NVIKA    AND    WA-DURUMA.  1 57 

way  from  their  waist  to  their  knees,  and  some  indifferent  beads 
and  rough  wire  necklets  and  bracelets. 

Trade  was  sharp  for  a  brief  time,  and  the  general  hubbub 
of  the  porters  and  angry  protests  of  the  natives  squabbling 
over  the  chickens  became  deafening  ;  the  natives  grew  uproar- 
ious when  a  burly  porter  would  cut  a  chicken  trom  its  tether 
and  put  down,  in  exchange,  a  string  of  red  beads  called  scm- 
scm,  and  cry  out  "  Buss."  finished  as  a  finale  to  the  trans- 
action, which  was  not  satisfactory  to  the-  crafty,  avaricious 
native.  It  always  ended  in  the  porter  being  compelled  to 
relinquish  the  poor,  thin  ku-kn  (chicken),  and  commence 
a  new  deal.  At  first  these  proceedings  interested  me  ex- 
ceedingly, but  in  the  end  I  was  obliged  to  take  a  firm  stand 
to  escape  being  fleeced  beyond  reason  by  the  extortion  of  my 
long-sought  ideal  primitives,  and  found  a  magic  in  that 
same  word  biiss  that  ended  all  dickering  and  disputes.  Fives 
seemed  to  be  the  span  of  enumeration,  and  they  use  as  an' 
abacus,  sticks,  and  in  trade  place  one  down,  cry  out  moja 
(one),  and  follow  it  up  with  another  and  another,  pili,  latu, 
21IIC,  tano  (two,  three,  four,  five)  ;  gather  them  up  and  go  over 
the  same  again,  if  the  trade  exceeds  five.  And  when  they 
want  to  enumerate  one  half,  a  stick  is  broken  in  two  ;  then 
they  are  thrown  into  a  dilemma  by  possessing  two  half-sticks 
instead  of  one  whole  one.  One  hand  doubled  up  stands 
also  for  five,  two  hands  for  ten,  when  sticks  are  not  con- 
venient. 

If  two   bunches  of  bananas  or  other  produce  are    offered 


158 


SULTAN     TO     SUL'IAN. 


WOMEN'    OF    THE    HAREM. 


for  barter  at  the  same  price,  the  simple  native  will  not  sell 
both  together,  but  one  at  a  time.  Exacting  the  fee  agreed 
upon,  he  hands  over  the  article  and  closes  the  sale  by  saying 
buss,  which  the  purchaser  repeats,  then  goes  through  the 
same  detailed    performance  again.     Should  a  dispute  arise,  as 


WA-NVIKA     AND     WA-DUKUMA.  1 59 

it  generally  does,  between  customer  and  trader,  the  latter  will 
dog  the  former  and  by  degrees  accept  the  proffered  stipend,' 
after  which  a  host  of  his  tribe,  finding  the  market  price 
broken,  will  solicit  barter  on  the  same  diminished  terms.  Yet 
the  tenacity  with  which  they  hold  fast  to  their  first  price, 
until  they  must  own  defeat  or  conform  to  a  lesser  ofter,  is 
admirable.  Leaders  of  expeditions  narrate,  with  striking 
unanimity,  instances  where  their  barter  and  the  native's  prod- 
ucts have  been  placed  in  full  view  on  the  camp  grounds  for 
mutual  consideration,  and  the  natives  could  not  be  induced 
for  days  and  days  to  yield,  until  time  and  patience  failed,  and 
an  order  was  given  by  the  leader  to  gather  up  the  barter, 
and  even  then  often  the  natives  would  permit  the  mzunga 
to  depart  without  budging  from  their  origuial  demands.  Ex- 
tortion seems  a  latent  trait  with  all  African  tribes ;  this 
properly  directed  in  connection  with  their  trading  propensities 
may  in  good  time  result  in  converting  them  to  thrifty  com- 
mercial peoples,  and  in  uplifting  them  bejond  dependence 
upon  philanthropic  indulgence  and  helpless  subserviency. 

Wa-Duruma  kept  sneaking  out  from  their  thorn-hedged 
seclusions  all  day  as  we  proceeded  on  our  march,  and  pre- 
sented a  strange  appearance,  some  few  with  their  wool 
bleached  yellow  with  unslacked  lime,  which  is  found  here- 
abouts, and  bushed  out  like  Somali  men,  into  which  were 
thrust  porcupine  quills  and  short  lengths  of  reeds  and  fish- 
bones. 

Their  ear  ornaments    consisted  mainly    of   tiger    and  other 


i6o 


SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 


animals'  teeth,  and    striped  quills    of   vulture's  feathers  with  a 
tiny  tuft  of  feather  at  the  end.     A  few  slender  strings  of  blue 

beads,  a  groatskin  ank- 
let,  a  meagre  strip  of 
clay-stained,  coarse 
cotton  cloth  tied  over 
their  shoulders  hanging 
scarcely  to  their  hips, 
constituted  their  dress. 
Hardship  and  thriftless- 
ness,  if  not  jsoverty, 
seemed  written  on 
their  lineaments.  They 
suffer  so  from  famine 
that  they  gladly  sell 
themselves  into  bond- 
age. This  brings  me 
to    the    statement    that 


KGVPIIAN    COrRIERS. 


many  Wa-shenzie,  —  which  is  an  African  equivalent  for  back- 
woodsmen,—  when  once  enslaved  and  taken  to  the  coast,  are 
unwilling  to  be  liberated,  and  have  no  desire  to  return  to 
their  former  haunts  or  lives.  A  master  must  provide  food 
and  shelter  for  his  slaves  when  they  are  not  hired  out.  Then 
the  slaves  are  obliged  to  give  half,  if  not  all,  of  their  earn- 
ings to  their  master.  A  peculiar  African  institution  is  that  of 
slaves  owning  slaves,  and  in  my  caravan  there  were  men,  not 
in  my  employ,  but  the    slaves    of    some    of   m\-    porters,    who 


\VA-N\IKA     AMI      W  A-HURLMA. 


i6i 


were  themselves  slaves,  and  were  taken  on  safari  to  relieve 
their  slave  masters  of  their  packs,  and  to  do  odd  jobs  for  the 
headmen  and  others,  remunerated  by  a  mere  stipend  given 
to  their  owners,  or  remnants  of  food  that  would  otherwise  be 
thrown  away.  They  seemed  merry  and  contented  to  lead  the 
nomadic  life  of  a  safari  in  companionship  of  the  regular  porters. 
When  not  living  in  the  open,  they  huddle  with  their 
families  and  their  goats  in  dome-shaped  huts  no  better  than 
pig-pens,  ver\'  low,  made  of  branches  and  sticks  plastered  over 


w  1 


th 


m 


ud 


a  n  ti 


dung,  entered  by 
a  tiny  aperture  on 
hands  and  knees; 
the  interior  filth)- 
and  stifling  with 
the  dense  smoke 
from  an  e \'  e r - 
smouldering  firt/, 
without  a  vent  tor 
its  escape  or  for 
ventilation.  They 
practise  polygamy 
when  they  can ; 
sell  their  female 
children  and  wives 


NATIVE    GOSSIPS. 


to    the    Masai    or   Arab    traders ;     are    a    wretchetl,    ill-favored 
people,  debased    even    in    the    eyes    of   other  African    natives, 


1 62  SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 

living  not  so  far  from  the  coast  as  to  deter  them  from  going 
tliither,  yet  in  their  indolence  preferring  to  skulk  about,  get- 
ting a  precarious  livelihood  as  they  may.  Their  worship  is 
fetich.  As  a  whole,  they  have  nothing  to  recommend  them. 
They  are  stunted  in  growth,  imhealthy  in  appearance,  victims 
to  skin  affections,  and  look  thoroughly  degenerated  and  are 
of  low-grade  mentality. 

My  feet  began  to  blister,  and  the   men   showed   evidences 
of  lameness    from    the    same    cause.     To    overcome    the    pre- 
vailing- distress  I   issued  an  order  to  give  to  each  man  a  cer- 
ts <^ 

tain  allowance  of  carbolized  grease  to  apply  daily  to  his 
feet.  This  would  naturally  make  ruinous  inroads  upon  my 
stock  of  luiguents,  and  it  was  necessary  at  the  outset  to  think 
from  what  source  to  replenish.  All  goat  and  sheep  and 
beef  fat  from  thenceforth  was  understood  to  belong  to  me, 
no  matter  from  where  or  by  whom  procured,  and  my  bounti- 
ful viafuta  (grease)  supply  was  the  unfailing  comfort  of 
every  one  in   ni)'  caravan   to  the  finish  of  my  safari. 

We  passed  several  pairs  of  comparatively  good  sandals, 
discarded  or  lost  bj'  others  who  had  travelled  the  same  way. 
I  fully  e.xpected  to  see  my  porters  make  a  grab  for  them. 
To  my  surprise,  not  one  man  even  touched  them.  It  appears 
that  some  porters  have  a  foot  disease  which  is  dreaded  so 
intensely,  in  consequence  of  its  infectious  nature,  that  they 
one  and  all  avoid  any  sandals  not  their  own.  When  a 
goat,  sheep,  cow,  or  game  is  slaughtered,  the  porters  beg  for 
pieces  of  the  raw  hides,  out  of  which  they  roughly  cut    soles 


WA-KVIKA     AM)     WA-UUKL'.MA. 


10: 


-,>>".»' --^-.^i 


LOADS    FOR    FOUR    PORTERS. 

which  the)'  strap  to  their  feet  with  a  leather  thong,  and  wear 
occasionalh"  when  traversing  stony  roads,  and  swing  from 
their  gun-stocks  when   not  in   use. 

When  we  camped  lor  the  night  we  were  obhged  to  form 
a  hedge  ot  thorn-bushes  and  circle  the  encampment  with 
huge  bonfires  to  keep  the  wild  beasts  from  attacking  us.  It 
was  terrifying  to  hear  the  continuous  roar  of  lions  resound- 
ing on  all  sides,  and  the  scurrying  feet  of  panting  jackals, 
and  to  see  the  glare  of  hyenas'  e)-es  in  the  darkness  of  the 
umbrageous  surroundings.  A  sense  of  abiect  helplessness 
momentaril)'  possessed  me,  \anquished  b}-  a  courage  that  had 
onl\-  been  dormant. 


1 64 


SULTAN     TO     SL'LTAN. 


Orders  were  issued  to  have  the  camp  doubly  guarded  and 
the  men  well  armed  and  allotted  extra  ammunition.  My  gun 
and  pistols  were  my  close  companions  during  a  sleepless 
night.  I  felt  I  should  have  at  least  thirty-one  chances  before 
reloading  if  attacked.  The  night  was  particularly  black  and 
the  growling,  rumbling  thunder  was  in  unison  with  the  mun- 
dane horrors.  Day  dispersed  the  impending  storm-clouds,  as 
well  as  silenced  the  nocturnal  voices.  The  experience  was 
beneficial,  insomuch  as  the  happy,  safe  denouement  dissipated 
all  future  cause  for  a  similar  scare  during  the  entire  safari. 
Unfortunately  I  had  no  Wa-shenzie  hunters,  and  the  majority 
of   my  men  knew  nothing  about  the    use    of   firearms    except 


GRASS    MAT    FOR    I'dRTKR  S    BED. 


what  hail  been  drilled  into  them  since  enlisting  for  my  ex- 
pedition, and  were  clumsy  at  best.  Nothing  contributed 
more  to  my  personal  comfort  than  the  numbers  of  lamps 
scattered  about,  four  always  outside  of  my  tent,  and  the 
huge  fires  my  askari   (sentinels)   kept  up  nightly. 


\VA-N'VIKA     AND     WA-DURUMA. 


>65 


Daily,  hour!)',  I  may  aver  the  uniqueness  of  my  position 
grew  upon  me  ;  in  truth,  the  farther  away  from  toucli  with  the 
coast  we  journeyed  the  more  my  personal  responsibility  and 
cares  and  anxieties,  for  nameless  reasons,  increased.  A 
chronic  insomnia  gained  upon  me  at  such  a  pace  I  scarcely 
ever  slept  over  two  hours  out  of  twenty-four ;  this,  too,  with- 
out a  sequel  of  ill  effects  upon  my  health,  although  every 
nerve  was  strained  to  its  higfhest  tension.  Walkine  conduced 
to  my  general  well-being,  and  I  am  constrained  to  admit 
proved  invaluable,  with  other  rational  hygienic  observances,  in 
giving  me  an  entire  immunity  from  fever.  I  never  drank 
water  that  had  not  been  first  boiled  and  filtered,  refrained 
from  all  stimulants  excepting  coffee,  indulged  daily  in  hot- 
water  baths,  cautiously  avoided  the  sun's  ra\s  upon  my  head 
and  spine,  put  on  an  additional  garment  when  hottest,  if 
not  on  the  move ;  changed  wet 
clothing  as   soon    as    convenient.     A 


small    bathing    tent    proved    of    the 

greatest    use    and     comfort ;     it    was 

always   set  just    outside  of   the  back 

flap  of   my    tent,   in  close    proximity, 

so    I    could    step     from   one    to    the 

other    with    ease    and    privacy.      Not 

least    in  sanitary  consideration  was    my  Palanquin,   in  which  I 

slept,  elevated  at  least   two  and  a  half  feet  from  the  ground, 

above    the     strata    of    miasmatic     mists.      One    of    my    black 

women    had    a    natural    gift    ot  massage ;     and    whenever  we 


TOP    OF    SANDAL. 


1 66 


SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 


POMBE    CUP. 


paused  for  a  noonday's  rest,  I  made  a  habit  of  standing  or 
moving-  about  to  avoid  stiffness ;  and  Suzani  always  came, 
despite  lier  own  fatigues,  and  if  tlie  seclusion  of  tlie  trees 
or    bushes  was    opportune,    otherwise    she    called    one  of  the 

other  women,  who  would  plank  her- 
self back  towards  me  in  front  of  me, 
and  spread  out  her  body-cloth  to 
screen  me ;  then  Suzani  rubbed  me 
as  a  jockey  might  have  rubbed  a  favorite  horse  between 
races.  .Abdullah,  my  civilian  cook,  likewise  proved  an  excel- 
lent accessory  to  my  migrating  establishment.  He  was  also  a 
capital  interpreter,  not  only  of  words,  but  alack  !  of  my  goods 
and  chattels.  Many  and  many  a  chicken  was  carried  off  by 
the  hyenas  that  by  natural  assimilation  was  translated 
into  his  well-conditioned  .sell. 

For  general  convenience  I  was  provided  with  a  huge 
waterproof,  padlocked  dobe,  or  wash-bag,  into  which  was 
stuffed,  protected  and  separated  in 
lesser  bags,  immediately  necessary 
articles,  for  example,  a  change  of 
costume,  extra 
shoes,  toilet  '^♦itW 
articles,  and  a 
small   suppl>-  of  wooden  pipe. 

soap,  matches,  candles,  fhnt  and  steel,  coffee,  biscuits,  as 
well  as  a  small  quantity  of  barter  articles,  and  close  at  hand, 
as  another  pack,  a  cork  ground  bed.    Through  this  precaution, 


WA-NVIKA      AND     WA-DURUMA. 


167 


an  emergency  retarding  the  bearers  of  my  tent  or  special 
loads  never  left  me  in  the  lurch  for  ordinary  comforts  and 
essentials. 

Every  night  or  morning  my  women  washed  every  travel- 
soiled  article,  snatching  the  opportunity  to  dry  them  as  they 
could  on  the  bushes  or  guys  of  my  tent.  When  a  dress  or 
other  articles  of  wearing  apparel  became  useless  through 
shrinkage  or  damage,  they  were  carefully  washed  and  placed 
in  a  load  of  utility  oddments  to  await  a  time  when  they  were 
worth  their  weight  in  gold  for  bandages,  or  to  repair  other 
garments.  Every  article  of  my  clothing  was  light,  durable, 
and  as  dainty  as  possible  ;  in  fact,  everything  had  been  done 
to  minimize  weight,  in  order  to  maximize  quantity,  in  every 
department  of  my  personal  effects  and  caravan  supplies. 
There  were  men  scattered  throughout  the  caravan  who  could 
turn  a  hand  at  almost  every 
trade,  or  do  a  bit  of  jobbery, 
and  even  barbers  and/ 
"  leeches "  were  to  be  found 
when  wanted ;  and  I  had 
taken  a  large  supply  of  tools 
and    articles    to    meet    almost  wdoden  ear  strktcher. 

every  conceivable  demand, —  rope,  canvas,  nails,  sail  needles, 
and  great  hanks  of  linen  thread,  as  well  as  considerable 
aluminium  wire,  solder,  and  irons. 

The  indigenous    products    of   the  country    offered    all    that 
could  be  desired  in  the  way  of   fibrous  plants  and  trees,  and 


i68 


SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 


^-.-*-«¥^^:S^:^^^N         _— ,^^^^^^^:f- 


all  the  timber  we  could  possibly  require.  A  saponaceous  shrub 
from  which  the  natives  and  Zanzibaris  cut  their  tooth-sticks 
was  very  prolific.     One  of   the    porter's    attendants  would   be 

sent  to  cut  an 
armful  of  this 
wood  and  dis- 
tribute it  right 
and  left  until 
his  supply 
would  be  e.x- 
hausted. 

*Capt.Wm. 
E.  Stairs,  care- 
fully prepared 
the  subjoined 
rules  for  camp 
making  for 
me,  supple- 
menting them 
with  a  score 
of  practical 
counsel,     i  n  - 


CAPT.    \VM.    E.    STAIRS,    R.    E. 


valuable  as  the  thoughtful  outcome  of  his  vast  experience  as 
an  officer  of  famous  repute  in  African  exploration,  for  which 
I  shall  ever  be  grateful. 

*  Since  the  above  went  to  press,  the  direful  newt  of  Capt.  W.  E.  Stairs's  death  near  Zambezi  has  made  all 
solemnly  grieve  who  knew  the  loyal,  gallant,  high-spirited  soldier,  the  refined  gentleman,  and  unselfish,  lov- 
able friend.     His  untimely  death  is  an  irreparable  less.  M.   F,  S. 


WA-NVIKA     AND     WA-DURUMA. 


169 


Although  I  found  it  expedient  to  deviate  from  the  letter 
in  some  of  the  minuti.x,  as  he  would  have  advised  had  he 
been  on  the 
field  cognizant 
of  the  situation. 
His  watchword, 
"  Discipline  for 
yourself  and  for 
your  subordi- 
nates,"        was     "'WI^K  NATIVE   WOOnEN-    BASIN. 

never  forgotten,  'wmm  In  proof  of  his  own  acceptance  of 
this  axiom  was  '"liiili'  his  trite  expression,  "  Never  question 
a  duty  to  be  executed,  do  if  quickly  and  leave  it  accomplished 
behind  \ou,  or  face  it  like  a  Briton   a  /'ouirancc. 


HINTS     FOR     CAMPS,     ETC.,     .«     REGARDS     DEFENCE. 

I.  Choose  commanding  position,  one  not  near  long  grass  or  bush,  if  hostile 
natives  are  about. 

II.  Beware  of  long,  dry  grass  near  camp  ;  natives  may  set  fire  to  it  and 
burn  you  out.  So  clear  a  space  round  your  goods  of  twenty  to  thirty  yards 
diameter. 

III.  Cover  up  your  goods  with  tarpaulins,  and  place  sentries,  and  as 
a  general  order  let  this  be  the  rallying  point  in  the  night  or  when  danger 
appears  imminent. 

IV.  Place  sentries  (black)  in  groups  of  not  less  than  three  men  each  at 
exit  and  ingress  of  camp,  seventy  yards  from  centre,  and  in  great  danger, 
groups  to  right  and  left. 

\'.  In  an  attack  on  camp  at  night  the  first  notice  will  be  some  arrows 
falling  in  the  camp.     At  once  order  silence,  smother  down  the  fires,  as  the 


SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 


natives  invariably  fire  at  these  in  hopes  of  hitting  men  lying  about  them, 
and  rally  near  the  centre  pile  of  goods,  and  store  of  ammunition ;  then 
send  out  some  of  your  most  reliable  men,  but  you  yourself  keep  in  camp 
and  direct  matters. 

VI.  Never  move  a  step  in  .Africa  without  two  or  three  attendants  with 
rifles.  Make  this  a  maxim,  for  one  day  it  may  save  your  life  ;  and  remember 
there  are  maniacs  in  .Africa  as  well  as  elsewhere. 

VII.  Your  column  organize  as  follows:  *  first,  your  riflemen,  without 
loads  ;  then  the  carriers,  then  a  small  force  under  a  chief  in  rear,  and  for  this 
pick  your  very  best  man. 

VIII.  Insist  on  your  personal  baggage,  tents,  and  blankets  being  near  your 

person,  and  always 
up  in  front,  other- 
wise you  may  arrive 
in  camp  and  your 
things  be  hours    be- 

M.    FRENCH-SHELDON'S    MEDICINE    BELT.  "*^  hind. 

IX.  Number  every  bale,  box,  load,  or  bundle,  and  enter  in  a  book  against 
the  name  of  its  carrier,  and  endeavor  to  give  same  loads  to  same  men  each  day. 

X.  Fall  the  men  in  each  morning,  call  the  roll,  and  give  out  their  loads  in 
person.  This  keeps  up  the  discipline  and  prevents  favoritism,  as  the  best 
black  chief  will  give  his  friends  light  loads  if  left  to  himself. 

XI.  .Always  try  to  keep  near  you  quinine,  carbonate  of  ammonia,  and  one 
or  two  other  standard  medicines. 

XII.  Natives  as  a  rule  prefer  day  to  night  for  attack  ;  a  night  march  may 
often  put  you  out  of  a  difficulty. 

XIII.  Go  slowly  at  first,  with  frequent  halts  till  the  men  and  women  get 
strong ;  allow  as  many  women  as  possible  to  accompany  you,  as  it  shows 
peaceful  intentions.! 

*This  was  impossible,   as  my   loaded  porters   carried   rifles. 

t  The    few  women  in  my  caravan  were  a  decided  detriment,  and  caused  me  unceasing  anxiety  and  chagrin. 


WA-NVIKA     AND     WA-DUKUMA. 


171 


XIV.  Do  all  the   palavering  yourself  if  jiossible.     Swahali   will  carry  you 
far  along  your  journey. 

XV.  You  as  a  woman  possess  many  points  that  no  man  would  have  in 
dealing  with  Africans.     You  therefore  should  find  an  t-n/rl-e  easy  anywhere. 

General    principle    of   a   camp    in    danger :  — 


-^??1|%'V^ii'^4ife, 


^5, 


m^^ , 
'^m.,% 


*      •  -mi 


%^ 


+  -^ 


TV>' 


: :     Sentries. 

A.  Stores  and   rallying  point. 

B.  Tent. 

XXX.     Men  sleeping. 

Never  put  your  tent  on  the  edge  of  the  camp,  and  always  have  trusty 
ones  sleeping  near  you. 

When  no  immediate  danger  is  apprehended,  the  sentries  should  be 
outside  the  camp,  fifty  yards,  which  is  about  bow-shot. 

In  conclusion,  I  feel  sure  that  your  invaluable  tact  and  perception  will 
pull  you  through  much  that  a  man  would  fail  at. 


i;: 


SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 


In   danger   or  in    safety,  do    not    forget    to    have    always  in    camp  some 
watchers,  or  sentries,  with  their  rifles  handy. 

You  can  never  be   safe  till  this  is  done,  and  the  men  know  what  to  do 
in  an  emergency. 

Yours   sincerely, 


.  O-  J^^^^  , 


To  Mrs.  French-Sheldon. 


REVOLT     AND     DEATH. 


^72> 


CHAPTER  YIII. 

REVOLT   AND    DEATH. 


LAINS  of  Taro  stretched  out  in  vast, 
^sloping,  sandy  lengths,  defined  by  the 
(clusters  of  hills  on  either  side,  and 
an  isolated  sand  mound  now  and 
again  looming  up  like  a  dome  with- 
^  |^"^^ri'^'''^^^^^^'^^0'^'t  apparent  connection  with  the 
.,..,^r='  °'y;Wvf -^^ _■■'■-  hills.  An  occasional  length  of  thorny 
,«4i,«^  vines  and  trees,  gray,  spectre-like,  gaunt, 
'gnarled,  bare  of  leaves  but  clad  in  cruel  re- 
pellent thorns,  were  made  more  conspicuous  by  the  luxuri- 
ous wide-spreading  branches  of  a  baobab,  or  a  mango,  inter- 
spersed with  brilliant  flowers,  prolific,  delicate  ferns,  and 
marvellous    cacti. 

The  rain  had  imparted  an  agreeable,  smiling  freshness  to 
nature,  veiling  the  burning  red  sands  and  tufted  stubble  with 
a  generous  verdure,  which  spared  us  all  much  discomfort. 
This  portion  of  the  route,  however,  is  generally  conceded  to 
be  full  of  hardships,  especially  as  the  porters  are  scarcely 
broken  in  to  their  work,  and  their  feet  are  soft  and  easily 
burnt.       In    making    such    a    detour    as    the    wait-a-bits    and 


174 


SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 


Other  natural  obstacles  provokingly  compel  in  Africa,  length- 
enino-  the  journey  to  a  given  point  at  times  immeasurably, 
my  men  became  surly,  evincing  symp- 
toms of  insubordination.  Suddenly  the 
leaders  wheeled  around,  halted  the  line 
of  porters  following,  pitched  their  loads 
in  wild  disorder  upon  the  groimd,  saying 
Bebe  did  not  know  the  road,  and  refused 
to  budge,  and  as  the  porters  in  the  rear 
kept  coming  up  they  were  incited  to 
manifest  the  same  spirit.  The  minor 
headmen  made  futile  attempts  to  rally 
the  men,  and  beat  about  in  a  lusty  man- 
ner with  their  kibosh,  all  to  no  effect. 
Hamidi,  m\'  factotum,  was  in  the  rear, 
far  away  ;  and  Josefe,  my  interpreter,  was 
simply  guyed  and  scofted  at  for  every 
order  he  issued  from  me.  Then  or 
never  I  realized  I  must  demonstrate  to  these  mutinous,  half- 
savage  men  that  I  would  be  obeyed,  and  that  discipline  should 
be  enforced  at  any  cost.  Only  for  one  instant  in  perplexity 
I  paused,  a  vulture  flew  overhead,  1  drew  my  pistols  and  .sent 
a  bullet  whizzing  after  it,  and  brought  it  surely  down  at  my 
feet,    to  the  astonishment  of  the  revolting  men. 

With  both  pistols  cocked,  suddenly  I  became  eloquent  in 
the  smattering  of  the  Swahali  which  I  knew,  without  interpre- 
ter,  inspired    with  fearlessness  and  strength   I   started  through 


WArr-A-Brr  'ihorn 


REVOLT     AND     DEATH. 


175 


the  centre  of  the  rebelHous  throng,  pointing  first  one,  then 
the  other  pistol  in  quick  succession  at  the  lieads  of  the  men, 
threatening,  and  fully  prepared,  determined,  and 
justified    to    shoot    the     first   dissenter. 

As  with  unrtinching,  angry  eyes  fixed  upon 
them,  I  exclaimed,  "  Get  up  !  take  your  load  ! 
One!  two!  th !"  and  before  the  three  was  pro- 
nounced the  man  addressed  was  on  his  feet, 
grasping"  his  discarded  load.  After  half  a  dozen 
men  were  thus  warned,  and  the  entire  throng  re- 
vealed uneasiness  and  were  stirring-,  I  turned 
upon  them  and  said,  "  Every  man  who  is  not 
on  his  feet  with  his  load  on  his  head,  when  I 
have  counted  three,  I  will  shoot  !  "  They  knew  I 
woidd,  and  knew  I  had  been  empowered  to  do 
so    by  the  Sultan  of  Zanzibar. 

RACONTA 

Then    I   had  no    fear  :    now  I   marvel  how  ever        beads. 
I     had    the     temerity    to    take     such    extreme     measures. 

I  halted  my  caravan,  and  through 
the  pelting  rain,  attended  by  Josefe 
and  two  askari,  retraced  my  steps  to 
meet  Hamidi,  who  had  been  de- 
layed by  the  accidental  disablement 
of  two  porters,  who  were  being 
slowly  carried.  He  returned  with 
me,  and  the  men  were  harangued  in  such  plain  language 
there    could     be     no     future      misunderstanding.        The     two 


NATIVE    WOODEN    COMBS. 


1/6 


SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 


ringleaders    were     flogged,     order    restored,    and     that    march 
resumed. 

This    was    the    first    and    last    revolt    during    my    safari, 
and  if   it    had    not  been  promptly  and  fearlessly 
quelled,   my  life    would  not  have  been  safe,  and 
the  entire  caravan  would  have  been  in  constant 
danger  from  similar  outbreaks. 

Although  it  rained  daily,  many  well-known 
pools,  or  ziivi,  were  filled  with  mud  and  slime, 
and    the    porters    would    drink    the     loathsome    '^"^d"-'''^'^  ^'^'^■ 

"^  fluid,  heedless  of  resultant  ill- 
ness. On  the  hill  of  Taro  are 
famous  water-holes,  or  small 
cisterns,  which  irregularly 
honeycomb  masses  of  flat 
rocks,  called  ungurunga. 
These  are  remarkable  natural 
formations,    cupped    into    and 

channelline  a  short  distance 
beneath  the  surface  of 
granite-like  rocks.  Many 
theories  are  offered  to  explain 
their  existence.  Some  sug- 
gest    that     they     have     been 

\   carefully  enlarged   by  the 

TRADE  DEADS.  \,:^v\y\^    of   thc  wild    uicu    from 

time  to  time,    when    they   have    traversed    the    plains.     Slight 


REVOLT     AND     DEATH. 


^n 


depressions  in  a  soft  portion  of  tlie  rocks,  where  water  was 
observed  to  accumulate,  liave  been  scooped  out  by  travellers, 
and  increased  by  the  decomposition  of  decayed  vegetation. 
Many  of  the  holes  are  mere  pockets  ;  whereas  others  I  dis- 
covered were  connected  beneath  the  surface  of  the  rock,  some 
two  to    four   feet  in    diameter  and  ten  to  twelve  feet  deep. 

Here  every 
kibiiyu  or  cala- 
bash or  bottle  or 
kerosene  tin  was 
filled,  to  meet 
the  requirements 
of  one  of  the 
most  difficult 
marches  through 
an  up-hill  coun- 
try. 

As  we  were 
about  to  move  I 
on,  I  observed  a 
tree  covered  with  what  seemed  to  be  yellow  blossoms,  so 
thickly  set  that  the  color  of  the  bark  from  root,  branch  to 
top  could  not  be  discerned.  Casting  my  eyes  up,  and  lost 
in  wonder,  my  Masai  interpreter,  who  was  something  of  an 
African  cicerone,  pushed  forward,  and  tossed  his  turban  into 
the  tree.  The  jellow  rose  on  wings,  and  proved  to  be  the 
tiniest  birds  imiaginable,  in  size  between  a  humming-bird  and 


METAI.    NKCKLACES    FOR    GIFTS. 


I 


178  SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 

an  ordinary  butterHy.  Not  one  twitter,  only  the  rustle 
and  whir  of  thousands  of  wings,  as  the  yellow  graduall)' 
coalesced  into  an  airy  cloud  overhead,  and  was  gently 
wafted   far   away  out   of  sight. 

Useless    to    narrate    day   by   day   the   routine    and  de- 
tail of  marching,  or   to   make   much   ado   about   hardships 
and    trials,    which    were    the    consistent    outcome   of   such 
a  journey.     We  met  only  a  few  straggling  natives.     Fever 
I  began  to  be  manifest  among  the  men.     Warburgh's  solu- 
'  tion  was    promptly    and  lavishly    administered ;    their   feet 
and     legs     swelled,    and    great    gaping    ulcers    appeared. 
These  were    most  miraculously    healed,  through    a  simple 
treatment.      First,    the    ulcers    were    washed  out,    and    the 
cavity  was  filled  with    powder    iodoform ;    then    bandaged 
with   a   strip   of   antiseptic   gauze,  over  which   was  tightly 
tied   a   piece   of  goat's    or   sheep's  hide,    and    left  without 
redressing  for   several  days,    when  the   ulcer    would    ha\e 
healed  and  present  a  wholesome  surface.     This  simplified 
and  minimized  the    medical  labors  which  were  incumbent 
upon  me.     The  swelled  and  blistered    feet  were    relieved 
by     hot    water     when     available,    and     constant     use     of 
grease,  which   I   provided  in  almost   limitless   quantities. 
With  considerable  horror  I  discovered  that  two  of  ni)- 
I      men    were    afflicted    with    a    malady    simulating,    if     not 
^•'^'  actualK',    leprosy.     They  were  kept  isolated    as    much    as 
si'KAR.  possible,     to    await    developments,    and     in    a    few     da)s 
when    tlie    toes    on  the    foot    of    one    man    dropped    off,    and 


MAS, 
LONt 


REVOLT     ANU     HEATH. 


179 


the  other  case  became  an  aggravated  form  of  leprosy,  there 
was  nothing  left  for  me  to  do  but  arrange  to  provide  for 
them  and  lea\'e  them  with  some  kind  natives,  until  they  could 
join  a  coast-bound  Arab  caravan,  or  b}'  degrees  work  back 
to  Zanzibar. 

Ever\'  man  in  the  caravan  who  had  not  had  smallpox, 
or  had  not  been  recently  vaccinated,  I  vaccinated,  and 
strangely  not  one  man  was  disabled  thereby,  although  every 
case  "took";  this  may  be  attributed  to  the 
excellency  and  purity  of  the  vaccine  and 
certain  h)-gienic  laws  I  unremittingly  per- 
sisted in  having  the  men  observe. 

When  encamped  the  temporarj'  invalids 
were  assigned  the  duty  of  camp  scavengers, 
swept  with  besoms  of  their  own  make-up  all 
the  litter,  and  burned  all  rubbish,  and  it  was 
forbidden  that  anj-  one  should  in  any  way 
befoul  the  camp  or  its  immediate  vicinity. 

The  nights  were  made  hideous  with  the  roars,  howls, 
grunts,  chatter,  yappings,  and  croakings  of  wild  beasts  and 
frogs,  crickets  and  cicadc-e.  Our  camp  was  always  surrounded 
by  a  thick  thorn  hedge,  and  camp-fires  blazed  on  all  sides. 
Through  the  interstices  of  the  hedge  could  be  seen  the  red 
glaring  eyes  of  the  prowlers,  and  when  the  animals  became 
too  intrusive,  a  random  shot  sent  them  helter-skelter  to  a 
safe  distance. 

We  intercepted  a  caravan,  and  I   sent  a  |3ackage  of  letters 


KAUZU    WORN    BY 
HEADMAN. 


I  So 


SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 


to  the  coast,  sealed  and  tied,  with  a  name  ring-  affixed. 
There  was  a  thrill  of  delight  in  being  able  to  communicate 
with  the  world 
of  civilization 
through  this 
means  of  mail 
carriers  not 
included  in 
any  zone  sys- 
tem. 

After  marching  during  a  perfect 
hurricane,  with  the  rain  pelting  and 
soaking  us,  the  van  of  the  caravan  led 
as  ever  by  me,  we  arrived  at  the  camp- 
ing ground  at  the  foot  of  Mungu  to, 
await  the  wear)'  stragglers.  As  filthy 
and  disgusting  a  spot  as  can  be  ima- 
gined, infested  with  vermin  and  cluttered 
with  all  manner  of  discarded  rubbish,  provision  tins,  bits  of 
garments,  old  sandals,  rinds  of  fruit,  the  chewed  pith  of  sugar- 
cane, bones,  fragments  of  rope,  broken  bottles,  and  ash  heaps. 
The  storm  increased  with  such  violence  there  was  no  choice  ; 
the  camp  must  be  made  there,  until  we  could  get  a  supply  of 
water  from  the  quenchless  well  at  the  top  of  the  mountain. 
Two  thousand  feet  of  rocks  to  scale  by  the  footsore  and  weary 
men,  and  jackals  and  lions  in  hazardous  pro.ximit)'.  Every  one 
was    irritable  and  fractious,   their    din    grew  unbearable,  when 


REVOLT     AND     DEATH. 


l8l 


suddenly  the  storm  abated  and  the  sun  burst  out  dazzling, 
shedding  a  good-night  radiance  over  all.  Good-nature  was 
restored,  the  men  began  to  sing,  and  each  one  eagerly 
performed  his  task ;  those  detailed  to  bring  water  started 
swiftly  with  their  utensils  and  their  guns  up  the  steep 
mountain      ^^a"'^'^^         ^^^^^^5^^^  to  the  well,  in  order 

to    re-  jjT       ,.,a«s,AsaaiBfc,^f;;^^r  ~  "^    turn  before  the  sim 

should     vanish 


and     night    set 


in.     A  warn- 


WOODEN    MEAL    DISH. 


ing  charge  was  given  to  a  young  porter  not  to  tarry,  and 
above  all  not  to  wander  away  from  the  others,  knowing  full 
well  he  might  be  enticed  by  the  sight  of  the  wild  pepper 
and    berries  that  there  abound. 

Awaiting  the  return  of  porters  sent  for  water  and  watch- 
ing the  laggards  of  the  rear  come  into  camp,  my  attention 
was  attracted  by  seeing  upon  the  arms  of  a  Wa-Duruma 
woman  a  curious  pair  of  pink  and  white  bead  armlets.  I 
tried  to  purchase  them  from  her.  .She  wa.xed  \-ery  angry  at 
the    mere    suggestion,     her    eyes    flashed    indignantly   as    she 


lS2 


SULTAN     TO     SUI.TAX. 


gathered  herself  up  on  her  feet,  and  placed  her  back  against 
a  tree    as    if    to    defy    me. 

"No!     Bebe     Bwana,    no!    no!    no!      My    man    has 
h    gone  to  Chaga  land,  and  these  he  placed  on   m\'  arms 
\   to  prove  my  faithfulness  to  him.     They  \vere   his  mar- 
3   riage   gifts   to    me.     No  !     no  !     no  !   I   will   not !  " 

Nor  could  she  be  induced  to  part  with  her  bridal 
bawbles,  although  I  made  her  tempting  oft'ers  of  cloth 
and  beads  she  much  coveted.  However,  her  protest 
and  sentimental  indignation  were  worth  tenfold  the 
value  of  the  armlets  as  a  revelation  of  character  ; 
and  yet  these  natives  are  reputed  by  white  men  to 
possess  no  idea  of  nor  disposition  to  faithfulness  in 
their  marital  relations.  They  may  be  inconstant,  but 
GRASS    {ii^gy  g^j-g  faithful  in  a  way. 

BEAD  •'  -^ 

NECKLACE.  Night  fell ;  the  moonless  darkness  was  so  intense 
it  seemed  palpable.  Every  man  was  in  camp  but  one. 
The  roll  was  called.  Alas!  no  answer  came  to  "Ferusa  bin 
Sura,"  the  boy  who  went  with 
the  others  to  bring  water. 
Every  man  was  questioned 
concerning  him.  Yes,  the)-  had 
filled  their  vessels  all  together ; 
he  was  there  with  them,  and 
they    had    all    started    down    to-  BKAD-ixLAin  bo\\x. 

gather;     no  one    had    noticed    that    he    loitered,   although    the 
Avild  pepper  was    plenty  and   they  all    had    gathered    some  as 


REVOLT     AND     DEATH. 


iS: 


they  came  leaping  down  the  rugged  mountain,  but  driven 
by  hunger,  fatigue,  and  the  fear  that  night  might  overtalce 
them,  tliey  had    not    tarried. 

Hamidi  organized  a  search  party  with  torches  and  guns 
to  search  for  Ferusa 
bin  Sura.  Kerosene 
cans  were  opened  and 
great  bonfires  made. 
The  relief  party 
shouted,  yelled,  and 
sung.  A  protest  re- 
sounded on  all  sides 
from  the  wild  beasts. 
Presently  an  unearthl)- 
shriek  overrode  all 
other  noise  ;  my  heart 
fairly  choked  me  in  its  agonized  plunges  and  curdled  my 
blood,  for  I  realized  that  poor  Ferusa  was  being  devoured 
by  the  lions.  Nothing  could  now  restrain  me.  With  a  well- 
armed  body  guard  and  torches  I  made  them  conduct  me 
up  the  mountain  path  and  fire  volley  after  volley,  trying 
to  frighten  the  animals;  all  to  no  purpose.  We  finally  dis- 
covered that  he  had  fallen  into  a  gully,  and  there  had  been 
pounced  upon  by  lions  he  had  disturbed.  Nothing  was  left 
but  to  retreat,  and  in  the  morning  search  for  his  remains. 
We  found  a  bone  or  two,  and  the  water  pail  ominously 
marked  with  my  name.     Sometimes  in  the  night  my  memory 


NAIIVE    DISH    MADE    OF    OXE    PIECE    OF   WOOD. 


1 84 


SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 


SPIRAL    METAL    NECKLACE. 
NATIVE    WORK. 


vividly  brings  back  those  ear-splitting  shrieks,  and  the  vhole 
scene,  with  its  spectacular  horrors,  parades  through  my  brain. 
This  was    the    only  human    creature    I    left    dead    in    Africa; 

although  later  on  I  had  an  attendant 
so  violently  ill  with  fever,  so  mad  in 
delirium,  forcing  upon  me  great  per- 
sonal solicitude  and  requiring  hourly 
vigilance  on  my  part,  and  a  total 
surrender  of  all  other  special  attend- 
ants to  the  invalid's  care,  in  order 
to  prevent  another  tragedy.  The 
caravan  ambulance  of  this  one  inva- 
lid required  the  service  of  eighteen  during  four  fifths  of  my 
safari,   but   reached    home    comparatively  well. 

During  the  day  I  visited  some  villages  we  passed,  where 
there  was  scarcely  any  sign  of  habitation  ;  the  huts  wide  open, 
the  fires  burning,  completely  deserted,  with  the  exception  of  a 
few  old  men  and  women  lolling  about ;  for  every  one  else  had 
gone  to  work  on  the  shambas,  or  jjlantations,  which  the  auspi- 
cious rains  had  made  fertile,  or  had  followed  those  who  did 
work  in  order  to  secure  to  themselves  companionship.  But 
when  the  sun  was  about  to  set,  surging  from  all  directions 
came  the  natives,  the  women  bearing  upon  their  heads 
long  loads  of  grass  or  wood,  happy  and  joyful  as  if  the  day 
had  just  begun  and  they  were  anticipating  some  fete,  rather 
than  having  just  finished  their  labor  and  returning  home  for 
rest  and  refreshment. 


< 

t 


o 

s 

o 
o 


> 

H 


REVOLT     AND     DEATH. 


185 


WOODEN   SPOON. 


Methods  of  working  the  plantations  seem  rather  hard  upon 
the  women,  because  the  few  tools  they  use  are  without 
handles,  and  the  Zanzibar  hoe 
is  a  bastard  pick  and  hoe  com- 
bined, something  like  an  adze. 
The  shortness  of  the  metal  haft,  which  is  projected  from  the 
tool  itself,  compels  the  women  to  bend  almost  double  as  they 
break    up    the    ground. 

Fortunately    the     rare     fertility    of     the     soil    lessens     the 
necessity    of  much    work    of   this    kind.     They    cut    the  grain 

with  curved  ..  ,.,.1..^ _  knives   sharpened 

on    the  .,eil^^1M^li'^C¥k'>^>WO^f%^j  inner  edge, 


HIDE    ASl>    BE,\D    CAP    WORN    P.V    SULTANS 


something-    like    a    modified    sickle,    as    well 

as  with    long    straight    knives    looking    like    dirks. 

The    curved     knives    are    principally    used    for    cutting 

banana    stalks    and    grass.     The    women     resort    to    a    rather 

singular  artifice  in    case  the   bunch  of  bananas    they  essay  to 


1 86  SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 

cut  happens  to  be  very  heavy ;  they  manage  to  stand  up 
directly  beneath  it  upon  a  stone  or  log,  and  by  throwing 
their  heads  back  and  a  peculiar  curving  of  the  spine,  ma- 
noeuvre until  they  make  platforms  of  their  necks  and  breasts, 
upon  which  they  ease  up  the  heavy  bunch,  while  they  reach 
overhead  to  the  extreme  limit  of  their  arms,  grasp  and  hack 
it  off  by  a  sweeping  motion  of  their  curved  knives ;  and  I 
have  seen  a  woman  supporting  a  bunch  of  such  ponderous 
weight  that  when  it  was  liberated  from  its  parent  stem  she 
would  fairly  reel  backward,  stagger  a  moment  to  recover  her- 
self, and  with  difficulty  keep  from  dropping  her  precious 
burden  until  she  was  able  to  place  it  carefully  on  the  ground. 
Finally  she  would,  with  regathered  force,  firmly  lift  it  on  her 
head  and  walk  away  with  her  burden,  displaying  the  light- 
ness and  agility  of  a  gazelle.  The  women  never  seem  to 
shirk  carrying  a  load,  however  hea\'y  it  may  be,  if  they  can 
once  manage  to  get  it  settled  and  balanced  upon  their  heads. 


DEPRAVED     WA-TEITA. 


187 


CHAPTER  IX. 

DEPRAVED  WA-TEITA. 

IFFICULTIES  and  hardships  were 
steadily  in  the  ascendency  trom  the 
n  moment  we  left  the  sycamores  at 
Maungu,  and  struck  the  steppes  to 
the  west.  The  mountains  of  Ndara, 
presenting  their  rugged  gneiss  wall, 
stand  out  boldly,  and  beyond  the 
mountains  of  Teita  haz)'  like  a 
half-tone.  Nature  became  more 
„__  •/;:,'■-       "erratic,  vegetation  more  varied;  the 

breccia  rocks  were  full  of  bits  of  glittering  quartz  and  mica, 
thorns  and  angular  branches  made  phantom-like  profiles, 
grasses  of  a  height  exceeding  ten  feet  hid  the  glaring 
red  sand,  and  brilliant  odoriferous  flowers  attracted  swarms 
of  honey  bees.  Our  march  in  the  broiling  sun,  up  the  rising 
ground,  fatigued  us  considerably.  Unfortunately,  my  advance 
askari,  whose  business  it  was  to  lop  oft  the  intrusive 
branches  and  vines  to  make  a  wa)-  for  me,  allowed  a  branch 
of  a  thorn-tree  to  escape  his  grasp,  which  flew  back  and 
struck    me    in    the     left    eye,    leaving    a   thorn    thrust    in    my 


i88 


SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 


TEllA    HUT. 


eyeball.  Such  agony  I  never  previously  experienced,  and  the 
attendant  horror  that,  in  removing  the  thorn,  the  eye  might 
possibly  be  destroyed,  disquieted  me  to  the  degree  when  all 
knowledge  of   expedients  was  vanished  for  a  time. 

Terror  reigned  supreme  over  every  member  of  the 
caravan,  and  the  poor  unhappy  culprit  supplicated  me  for 
mercy,  fearful  that  the  penalt)'  for  his  fault  would  be  nothing 
short  of  death.  Although  sorry  for  myself  because  of  the 
seriousness  of  the  accident,  there  was  certainly  no  wrath  in 
my  heart  for  him.  A  singular  coincidence  occurred  which  I 
feel  justified  in  narrating,  as  it  impressed  the  Zanzibaris  as 
to    the    actuality  of    the     superhuman  powers    they  heretofore 


DEPRAVED     WA-TEITA. 


189 


POISONED    ARROWS. 


had  supposed  were  enthralled  in  mj-  being.  The  same 
askari  met  with  a  similar  accident  to  his  left  eye  thirty- 
six  hours  after  my  misfortune,  and  gradually  his  eye  ran 
out,  so  that  when  we  reached  the  coast,  at  the  finish  of 
the  sajari,  the  empty  socket  tortured  my  conscience,  knowing 
that  he  believed  it  was  a  retribution  I  had  called  down 
upon  him.  He  was  a  Roman  Catholic  convert,  and  during 
the  remainder  of 
the  safari,  after 
his  own  injury, 
he  addressed 
orisons  first  to 
God,  then  to  me. 
He  fully  ac- 
cepted his  affliction  from  the  beginning  as  a  righteous  punish- 
ment I  had  called  down  upon  him,  and  nothing  could  eradi- 
cate this  idea  from  his  mind.  He  would  pathetically  and 
without  cant  say,  "  Bebe  is  merciful,  kind,  and  good;  a  Inoana 
would  have  shot  me." 

After  the  shock  had  abated,  my  eye  was  bandaged,  and  on 
we  marched.  One  does  not  stop  for  an  eye  or  a  limb  or  a 
life  in  Africa  ;  one  is  ever  impelled  to  proceed,  per  augusta 
ad  aiigiista.  With  one  eye  I  saw  more  than  I  can  ever 
hope  to  recount  of  the  grandeur  of  Kilimanjaro,  and  am 
repaid  tenfold  for  all  I  suffered  in  Africa  by  the  possession 
of  the  confidence  and  friendship  bestowed  upon  me  by  the 
African  primitives. 


190 


SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 


At  the  foot  of  the  Ndara  Mountain  we  halted  just  below  the 
Sagalia  mission  station,  at  least  six  hundred  feet  above.  This 
camping  ground,  so  well  known  to  all  caravans  traversing 
that  resfion,  contains  a  number  of  uninviting  straw  and  banana- 
leaf  thatched  sheds,  filthy  with  the  indescribable  debris  of 
many  caravans,  and  giving  out  a  strong  odor  of  chickens, 
goats,  cattle,  and,  at  this  particular  time,  also  of  camels,  for 
the  I.  B.  E.  A.  caravan  taking  camels  up  country  had  only 
a  few  days  before  passed  that  way.  Some  of  the  tired 
porters    hastily    put    down  their    loads,  and    threw    themselves 

upon  the  litter, 
heedless  of  the 
filth  and  stench, 
in  their  eager- 
ness to  avail 
themselves  of 
the  dubious 
shelter.  \  pool 
of  water  fed 
from  the  moun- 
tain   rills,   if  not 

NATIVE    MF.TAL    RINGS    AND    GOATSKIN    BROTHERHOOD    RINGS.  iudccd        frOITl        a 

living  wellspring,  a  dark,  dank  home  for  wriggling,  loath- 
some creatures,  silently  rested  beneath  outspreading  sycamore 
and  baobab  trees.  Here  the  men  scrambled  and  threw  them- 
selves flat  on  the  ground,  plunged  their  heads  into  the  water 
and  drank  until   they  had  quenched  their  inordinate  thirst. 


DEPRAVED     WA-TEITA.  I9I 

In  quick  response  to  our  signal  shots  tlie  natives  dis- 
charged two  rifles,  and  men,  women,  and  children,  the  young 
and  the  old,  began  to  swarm  down  the  rugged  escarpment 
with  amazing  precipitation,  bearing  on  their  heads  all  sorts  of 
salable  green  stuff,  and  chickens,  eggs,  butter,  gee,  milk 
curds,  honey,  and  what  other  articles  of  barter  their  meagre 
stock  in  hand  warranted. 

A  great  hubbub  ensued,  to  which  the  porters  largely 
contributed,  as  there  would  be  a  mutual  recognition  of  an 
old  acquaintance.  Mr.  Wray,  the  former 
resident  of  the  Sagalia  mission,  also  the 
agent  of  Ibea,  had  resigned  their  posts  1 
in  consequence  of   the    dissatisfaction  mani-  snuff-box. 

fested  by  the  natiyes  in  a  series  of  unbearable  jaersecution. 
Their  absence  deprived  me  of  an  opportunit)'  I  had  largely 
counted  upon  whereby  to  obtain   some  interesting  data. 

Whilst  the  men  of  the  caravan  were  bartering,  cooking, 
bathing,  and  filling  their  calabashes,  attended  by  Josefe  and 
three  askari,  I  climbed  over  six  hundred  feet  up  to  the  top 
of  the  hill  to  take  a  bird's-eye  view  of  the  surrounding 
country  and  visit  the  people. 

Depravity  seems  to  be  an  eminent  characteristic  of  natives 
in  easy  touch  to  coast  traders  and  caravan  traffic.  The 
Wa-Teita,  especially  that  branch  of  the  tribe  known  as  the 
Wa-Sagalia,  who  inhabit  this  portion  of  the  mountain  in  the 
province  of  Teita,  situated  as  it  is  at  the  four  corners  of 
caravan     routes    leadino-    to    and     from    the    coast     in    various 


ig2 


SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 


directions,  present  a  glaring  example  of  the  statement.     They 
are  grovellers,    devoid  of  self-respect,  and   evince  a  shameless 

state  of  beggary;  although  they  possess 
a  most  fertile  tract  of  country,  pro- 
tected by  its  eminence  from  surprises 
by  hostile  tribes,  their  indolence  and 
the  prevailing  demoralization  of  the 
women  too  often  reduce  this  tribe  to 
a  sad  plight  of  penury. 

The  flagrancy  of  the  •  women  is 
most  disgusting,  from  all  accounts 
given  by  reliable  travellers  who  have 
been  forced  to  camp  here  for  a  few 
days.  Food  was  too  high  priced  to 
entice  my  porters  to  tarry  long,  there- 
fore during  the  few  hours  we  halted  I 
was  spared  the  humiliation  of  being 
an  involuntary  witness  to  their  degra- 
dation. 

Neither  the  men  nor  women  are 
comely  of  feature  or  fme  in  figure. 
Their  color  is  brown  rather  than  black; 
they  file  and  discolor  their  teeth  and 
tattoo  their  bodies  in  a  rudimentary  way, 
without  motive  or  any  conventional 
fashion.  The  women  artificially  make  their  breasts  pendulous, 
and  shave  their  heads,  all    but  a  circular  crown    patch,  which 


BRASS    AND    IRON    1;EAUS. 


DEPRAVED     WA-TEITA. 


193 


they  strand  and  string  beads  upon  ;  the  prosperous  or  favor- 
ite women  attach  a  number  of  strands  of  beads  around  their 
heads,  in  addition  to  the  crown  of 
beaded  hair,  and  per- 
mit several  strings  to 
hang  down  over  their 
ears  and  shoulders; 
they  wear  high  masses 
of  dark  blue  and  red 
small    beads,    called 


lar^e 


sail -SCI)  I, 


to  d 


is- 


tinguish      such      from 
seed-beads,  around  their 
necks,  until  their  chins  are 
awkwardly    thrown     up     anc 
pressed  backwards;   also  a  bead 

girdle,   or  smiply   more  goatskin  ki,ap  worn  by  many  tribes, 

strands  of  beads  roped  ornamented  with  beads  and  chains. 

about  the  waist ;  then  a  dark  blue  or  brown  —  clay  stained 
—  cotton  loin-cloth  or  kilt  skirt,  very  short,  coming  only  half- 
way between  hip  and  knee,  or  a  tiny  scrap  of  cloth  or  goat- 
skin hanging  in  front,  or  a  small  triangular  flap  of  goatskin 
dangling  behind  from  their  waists ;  large  pewter  and  bead 
armlets  and  upwards  of  twenty-four  wire  hoops  two  and 
one  half  inches  in  diameter,  on  which  are  strung  all  sorts 
of  small  beads,  in  one  ear,  and  in  the  other  a  few  hoops 
of    large    green    and    blue    glass    rings    of    the    sort    that    are 


194  SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 

prized  by  the  Masai.  In  various  punctures  around  the  rim 
and    in    the    lobes    of    their    ears    they    thrust    bits    of    sweet 

grass,  circular  pieces  of 
ivory  or  bone,  porcupine 
quills,  brass,  iron,  and 
copper  danglers  orna- 
.mented  with  a  few  large 
showy  beads.  All  these 
beads    represent   accuniu- 

\VA-TE!TA    BEAD    AND    METAL    EAR-RINGS. 

TWENTY-FOUR  WORN  AT  A  TIME.  lated    wcalth.      OccasioU" 

ally  women  had  followed  the  fashion  of  the  Zanzibaris  slave 
women,  and  wore  little  studs  of  various  materials  put  through 
holes  bored  into  their  nostrils  and  lips  and  cheeks.  When 
they  are  fortunate  enough  to  possess  a  bright  variegated 
bandana  or  handkerchief,  they  delight  to  display  it  on  their 
person.  Horn,  metal,  and  goatskin  rings  bedeck  their  hands. 
Although  their  hands  and  feet  are  broad  and  thick,  they  are 
not  long,  and  cannot  fairly  be  called  large.  They,  as 
other  natives,  detest  ablutions,  and  use  quantities  of  animal 
and  cocoanut  oil  overlaid  with  yellow  clay  and  accumulated 
dirt. 

The  men  wear  odd  bits  of  all  sorts  of  calico,  deck  out 
their  persons  in  ivory  and  bone  and  metal  armlets  and  leg- 
lets,  wear  similar  ear  ornaments,  arm  themselves  with  bows 
and  arrows,  carry  a  hide  quiver  filled  with  poisoned  arrows; 
the  poison  they  use,  and  many  other  tribes  in  East  Africa,  is 
a    vegetable     product     from     the   province  of   Gyriama,  which 


DEPRAVED     WA-TEITA. 


195 


WA-TEl'lA    EAR-RINGS. 


they  procure  from    the    Arab    traders,  or    direct  through  their 
own    envoys  from    the  people  of  the  country. 

Polygamy  exists,  and  a  degenerate  outcome  of  the  men's 
thriftlessness  leads  them  to  marr)-  their  own  mothers  and 
sisters  and  even  their  own  children,  because  they  are  too 
improvident  or  actually  in  some 
cases  too  poor  to  purchase 
an  unrelated  wife ; 
hence  the  offspring 
of  these  consanguin- 


which   enervate  alike 

their     mental     and 

physical  forces,  must 

retrograde  and  develop  vicious  tendencies  in  their  degenerate 

progeny,    if   they    do     not     in     time    happily    become     sterile. 

Their  religion,    such    as    it    is,    may  be   safely  called    fetich. 

As  they  depend  largely,  as  one  of  their  most  profitable 
products,  upon  the  yield  of  the  calabash,  which  is  the  fruit 
of  the  baobab-tree,  when  a  famine  threatens  they  plant 
numbers  of  this  tree  to  propitiate  the  elements,  and  regard 
as  a  bad  oinen  the  destruction  of  a  baobab-tree  if  through 
accident  or    intention. 

All  the  hair,  as  a  rule,  is  shaved  close  to  the  skin.  Magic 
doctors  are  held  in  high  repute.  Women  are  the  accoiiclicurs 
and  specialists  for  women.  Puberty  is  attained  at  an  early 
age,     as    in    all    tropical    countries.     The    v^'omen     ma)'   marry 


196 


SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 


at  the  age  of  ten,  and  the  youths  at  fifteen.  The  families 
are  not  large.  Virtue  here  has  no  place.  Men  and  women 
antl  children  drink  pombc,  and  smoke 
long  wooden  or  iron  pipes,  and  use 
snuff.  The  inevitable  snuff-box  dangles 
In  sight,  for  every  tribe  in  East  Africa 
indulge   in   the  habit. 

Plenty  of  game  could  be  discerned 
ambling  away  on  the  outstretch  of 
steppes  beyond.  A  sudden  mist  shrouded 
the  distant  sight  of  Kilimanjaro,  which 
deprived  us  of  seeing  the  grand  moun- 
tain's peaks.  Rain  portended,  and  despite 
the  protest  the  natives  made,  we  soon 
were  in  train   to  march. 

The  natives  were  struck  with  amaze- 
ment to  see  the  loliitc  won/an,  and 
several  stood  as  if  riveted  to  the  ground, 
with  their  loads  on  their  heads,  staring 
at  me  for  hours.  Men  squatted  about 
with  their  bows  and  arrows  clutched  in 
their  hands,  mutely  watching  every  move- 
ment I  made.  The  Palanquin  was  a 
veritable  surprise  to  adults  and  children. 
All  wanted  to  see  it  carried ;  and  when 
the    bearers    lifted    it    up    to    proceed    on 

WA-TEITA    BEAD    HOOP 

EAR-RINGS.  our     safai-!.     they     ran     m     droves    after 


DEPRAVED     WA-TEITA. 


197 


them,  shouting  and  screaming  with  dehght,  exactly  as  do 
street  gamins  pursue  a  circus  caravan  going  through  a  town. 
Shaba,  tlie  old  chief  of  Sagalia,  had  presented  me  with  a 
few  of  his  ear  ornaments,  for  which  I  had  gi\'en  in  return  an 
ample  amount  of  beads ;  however,  he  expressed  great 
dissatisfaction,  and  demanded  some  Americana,  white  cotton 
sheeting,  which     Hamidi     peremptorily    refused.      He    planted 


■Cuo* 


WA-TEHA    NECKLACE. 


himself  close  beside  me  wherever  I  chanced  to  move,  and 
commenced  a  nagging  grumble,  about  being  so  poor  and 
that  I  was  so  rich,  and  what  the  other  travellers  had  given 
him.  A  more  abject-looking  creature  can  scarcely  be  de- 
picted. His  wives  sallied  about  him  to  lend  their  voices 
to  his  bewailings,  until  for  peace  and  quiet  I  came  very  near 
acquiescing  to  their  demands.     The  women,  to  incite  my  pity, 


igS 


SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 


carried  their  wretched-looking  babies  shing  over  their  backs 
in  a  hide  or  length  of  cloth,  but  Hamidi  protested  that  he 
would    satisfy  and    silence   the  "beggars." 

Rather  a  sprightly  bronze  beauty  —  a  beauty  according  to 
the  accepted  rule  of  that  country  —  came  racing  up  to  me, 
repeating  over  and  over  again,  "  Bebe,  Bebe,"  extending  her 
arms,  holding  in  her  hands  a  sweet  grass  bead  necklace,  and 
a  round  bone  ornament  pierced  in  the  centre,  which  she  had 

worn  on  her  own  neck.  1 
;pted  her  proffered 
curious  to  know 
hat  she  would 
demand  in  return. 
To  my  astonish- 
ment, she  spit  at 
me.  In  my  dis- 
gust and  indigna- 
tion, I  was  about 
to  return  her  pres- 
Mits,  when  Josefe 
;hecked  me  by  saying 
is  merry  way,  "  Quite 
right,  Bebe,  it  is  their  way 
of  paying  you  a  compliment; 
they  all  do  it  in  this  part."  So  they  do,  as  we  shall  see 
later  on.  Rather  pleased  at  the  little  maiden's  evidence  of 
generous    friendliness,    I     drifted     into    quite    a    revery,    from 


CARAVAN    I'ATH. 


DEPRAVED     WA-TEITA.  1 99 

which  I  was  disturbed,  some  miles  from  the  place  of  the 
scene,  by  her  voice  and  her  presence.  She  had  repented  of 
her  free  gift,  and  had  pursued  us  to  exact  adequate  pay- 
ment for,  or  the  return  of,  the  trifles.  She  was  pacified  with 
the  glitter    of  a    few  pice    and    a    name  ring. 

Whilst  I  partook  of  my  luncheon,  sitting  in  my  Palanquin, 
I  confess  experiencing  great  embarrassment  in  the  presence  of 
the  large  audience  of  natives  who  thronged  about  to  gaze 
and  comment  upon  the  performance,  wherever  we  chanced 
to    halt,    from    beginning    to   finish    of   our   safai-i. 

The  observances  of  little  ceremonies  and  indulgence  in 
certain  refinements,  as  well  as  some  few  luxuries,  conduced 
not  only  to  my  prestige  in  the  natives'  eyes,  but  to  my 
personal  comfort  and  self-respect.  Requisite  accessories  add 
but  little  to  the  expense  of  a  safari,  and  bring  a  threefold 
result :  namely,  in  appearance,  in  instructiveness  as  to  the 
white  people's  customs,  and  not  the  least,  to  personal  conven- 
ience and  comfort.  All  talk  explanatory  of  such,  not  illus- 
trated by  actual  representation,  could  not  do  half  the  service 
of  certain  observances  adhered  to  consistently  by  a  leader. 
It  is  not  foolish.  It  is  essential  in  studying  traits  of  native 
people,  and  to  provoke  and  develop  the  play  of  their  intel- 
lect when  brought  face  to  face  with  strange  manners  and 
customs. 

On  we  pushed,  trying  to  reach  a  suitable  camping  ground 
for  the  night,  despite  the  sharp  showers  that  fitfully  swept 
down  upon    us.     Suddenly,  as  the  sun    neared  the  horizon,  a 


200 


SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 


BEAIlED    FIGLEAF. 

violent    outbursts    ot 


bow  of   promise,  with  tliree  reflected  glories  of  its  radiant  self, 

made    the  heavens  magnificent,   and  the   storm  ceased.     Alas! 

photographs   taken    of   this    and    similar   manifestations  of   the 

elements    proved     utterly    worthless, 

—  vagfue,  meaningless,  and  black  be- 
es     '  o 

yond  the  recognition  of  a  single  out- 
line or  effect. 

Encased  in  a  waterproof  coat, 
rubber  boots,  and  a  cover  over  my 
topcc  (pith  hat),  I  defied  every  storm, 
and  marched  with  ease  through 
wind-driven  rains.  My  head  askari 
shouldered  me  to  convey  me  across  a  muddy,  leech-infested 
stream,  swollen  by  the  recent  downpourings,  and  in  his 
effort  to  obtain  a  foothold  on  the  slimy,  somewhat  abrupt, 
yielding  bank,  slipped,  and  dumped  me  into  the  turgid 
waters.  When  fished  out  I  certainly  was  a  bedraggled-look- 
ing object,  both  e)es  closed  with  mud  which  trickled  down 
from  head  to  feet,  my  mouth,  nostrils,  anci  ears  resembling 
overflowing  phials  of  pea  soup. 

Witnessing  the  event,  Hamidi's  kibosh  ( rhinoceros-hide 
stick)  went  whistling  through  the  air  as  he  impulsively  plunged 
throueh  the  stream  to  chastise  the  frightened  askari.  How- 
ever,  in  justice  I  signed  him  oft',  and  made  merry  of  the 
incident,  protesting  it  was  not  the  man's  lault  through  any 
carelessness.  Quietly  I  resolved  never  again  to  trust  myself 
to  the  hazard  of  a  similar    ducking,    and    thereafter    swam    or 


2 

O 


o 


o 


DEPRAVED     WA-TEITA. 


20I 


^^rw^^rv^^V"  -w  ^^i 


forded  the  streams,  only  making  exceptions  when  we  had  to 
plod  through  short  spaces  of  muddy,  swampy  ground,  and 
there  was  no  sense  in  making  myself  uncomfortable  or 
hideous  for  hours  by  loading  down  my  clothing  and  feet  with 
tenacious  clay  and  slime. 

Straggling  natives  at  first  were  very  shy  and  half  sus- 
picious, although  never  hostile  or  reluctant  to  supply  us  with 
food  when  we  would  reach  their  settlements,  although  at 
Matata  the  prices  were  even  more  exhorbitant  than  at  Teita. 
This  can  be  accounted 
for  from  the  fact  that 
our  reputation  had 
preceded  us,  and  we 
were  heralded  as  a 
/)/£'  and  ricJi  safari, 
and    that     Bebe     Bwana    was    a    white     queen. 

The  plantations  were  very  fertile,  and  the  women,  who 
are  the  legitimate  agriculturists  of  East  Africa,  bediz- 
ened  with  Qrlisteninof  beads  and  shinino-  metal,  tilled  the 
ground,  without  apparently  deeming  their  task  to  be  any 
hardship.  Somehow  the  natives'  acceptance  of  the  inevitable 
is  very  fine.  Knowing  that  we  were  to  traverse  their 
country,  they  were  evidently  on  the  alert  to  see  me,  and  were 
disporting  their  splendors  in  honor  of  the  event.  They  were 
not  surprised,  and  passed  upon  m)'  anomalous  appearance 
without  hesitancy.  My  long  hair  was  an  unremitting  source 
of    amazement  to    all  the  tribes  I   met.     They  queried  why    I 


TWO    EKADED    CaRDLE.^. 


202  SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 

did  not  shave  it  off,  lilce  theirs.  My  crooked  Alpine  stock, 
with  its  blue  pennant  emblazoned  with  the  magic  device, 
noli  J71C  tanzci'c,  was  much  admired  and  I  tear  coveted. 
They  innocently  deemed  it  to  be  a  badge  of  high  rank, 
never  havine  seen  one  before,  hence  inferred  that  I  must  be 
of  supreme  importance  and  possessed  of  limitless  power,  to 
pass  over  their  idea  of  the  inexhaustibility  of  my  material 
resources. 

On    all  sides  I  was  besought  for    razors  and    clasp-knives, 
which   I    bestowed  freely.     An  explorer's  knife,  worn  attached 

to  my  belt,    delighted    them  with    its 
iintltuiu    in  parvo    contents. 

They  would  peer  around  and  into 
my    tent    if   the    flaps    were    fastened 
^  '^     back    to    the    guys,    when    fitted    up 
^.  -V    with     all    of    its    paraphernalia,     and 
-   )  stand,     eyes    wide    open,    fixed    with 
V    -amazement    at     the     mysterious    ap- 
'jpointments    thereof,    for    hours,  with- 
out becoming  weary. 

At  night  I  would  set  alight  mag- 
nesium  wire,    red    and    green  Greek 
powder,     or    send     up     rockets,    antl 
EGG-SHAPED  BEADS.  somctlmcs     fire    a     voile)'    for     their 

amusement  when  they  were  bold  enough  to  venture  to  defy 
the  dark,  of  which  they  have  an  inherent  fear,  measurably 
shared  b)'  all  African  tribes. 


DEPRAVED     WA-TEITA.  203 

On  our  route  at  Ruru  we  found,  curled  up  tinder  the 
meagre  cover  ot  a  tew  branches  overspread  with  palm  leaves 
and  grasses,  a  poor,  ill  wretch  dying- 
frc^m  neglect  and  hunger,  who  hail 
been  discharged,  it  was  said  through 
his    |:)hysical    inability  to  proceed  with  head-inlaio  dish. 

a  cara\an  destined  to  a  certain  station,  and  turned  adrift, 
without  adequate  means  to  reach  the  coast  as  best  he  could 
or  drop  dead  in  the  bush.  Poor  fellow,  he  managed  to  drag 
himself  several  days  on  his  homeward  journey,  antl  then  col- 
lapsed in  his  utter  helple.ssness  at  this  point.  Although  I 
was  carrying  a  document  from  an  authoritative  officer  to 
various  subofficers,  occup)'ing  stations  in  East  Africa,  ordering 
them  not  to  deplete  their  stores,  nor  to  provide  me  with  sup- 
plies of  barter  goods,  ami  under  no  circumstances  to  assume 
any  e.xpense  in  my  behalt,  or  enlist  in  any  of  my  undertak- 
ings other  than  to  warn  me  of  ilanger  and  if  possible  prevent 
me  from  incurring  risk  of  lite,  coinmon  humanity  asserted  itself, 
and  I  provided  one  of  their  adandoned  wretches  with  a  tempo- 
rary abiding  place  in  the  care  of  a  native  family  well  known  to 
my  headman  Hamidi,  and  left  him  trade  goods  sufficient  to  get 
him  to  the  coast  when  he  should  be  able  to  travel.  Three  weeks 
afterwards,  three  natives  from  this  village  presented  themselves 
in  my  camp  to  demand  further  payment  ior  the  maintenance 
of  the  fever-stricken  waif.  Their  claim  I  promptly  repudiated, 
as  it  could  only  be  regarded  in  the  light  of  sharp  practice, 
for  the  man  had  died,  by  their  own  confession. 


204 


SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 


We  were  constantly  coming  across  the  fresh  spoor  of  buffa- 
loes and  rhinoceros,  and  the  bush  was  trampled  significantly. 
The  rear  part  of  the  caravan  was  put  to  rout  by  the  dash  of  a 
herd  of  zvilde  bccsfc  which  had  been  disturbed  by  the  noise 
whilst  grazing,  but  after  the  panic  subsided  it  was   found  that 

no  one  had  been  hurt; 
then  the)'  all  boasted 
how  they  could  have 
brought  down  the  en- 
tire herd  if  Bebe 
B  w  a  n  a  had  only 
r^^^  given  them  per- 
mission to  shoot. 
D  u  r  i  n  o-    the 


WOODEN    PASIN. 


course  of  the  day  I  was  fortunate  in  bringing  down  a  lovely 
gazelle  at  two  hundred  and  forty  yards,  —  a  random  shot  1 
sent  from  my  Winchester  into  a  herd.  This  bit  of  luck  was 
hailed  with  great  acclamation  by  my  men,  and  they  boasted 
about  it  with  as  much  fervency  as  if  they,  each  one,  had 
individually    bet;n    the    marksman. 

Several  porters  started  on  a  gallop  to  bring  in  the 
game.  It  was  soon  flayed,  and  the  meagre  portion  of 
meat  it  afforded  was  dressed  and  sent  to  my  cook  tent. 
Selectino-  a  few  steaks,  the  balance  was  eiven  to  Hamidi,  to 
distribute  to  the  sick,  after  reserving  the  liver  and  kidneys  for 
his    own    mess   pot. 

Although    quantities   of   big   game    abounded,   after    a    few 


DEI'KAVEI)     WA-I'EITA. 


205 


experiments  it  became  obvious  to  me  that  it  would  throw 
my  caravan  into  wild  confusion  to  engage  in  sport  which 
would  not  have  had  a  brilliant  result,  as  my  men  were  not 
expert  in  the  use  of  rifles.  However,  when  we  could  not 
procure  meat,  and  the  men  seemed  to  require  a  more  generous 
diet  than  fruits,  corn,  bananas,  and  yams,  I  would  try  my 
hand.  Partridges  and  Guinea  fowls  were  plenty,  and  flew  up 
from  the  bush  when  we  were  right  upon  them.  One  morn- 
ing, in  less  than  an  hour,  with  my  revolver,  I  shot  for  the 
pot  nineteen,  without  the  slightest  tax  of  skill.  The  inflam- 
mation that  had  set  up  in  my  injured  eye  behooved  me  to 
avoid  long-range  sights.  However,  after  my  minor  successes, 
I  fully  comprehend  why  it  is  that  f\  great  sportsmen  like 
Sir  John  \VilIoughb\-,  »  Jackson, 
have  expressed  them- 
selves with  so  much  en- 
thusiasm about  this 
"  hunter's  Paradise." 

A    deplorable     species    of 
"  buck    fever,"    belonainc:    ex- 
clusively     to    no     particular 
country,    experienced    b\"     me 
when    in    too    close    proximit)' 

to  the  ivories  of  elephants  encountered  on  my  sajari,  pre- 
vented me  taking  photographs  of  the  admitted  greatest 
source  of  commerce  in  Central,  East,  and  West  Africa, — 
a   commerce    which    lias    a    nefarious    significance    when    one 


Chanler,   and    others. 


kHINoi.  KROP. 


206 


SULTAN     TO     SL'LTAN. 


speaks  of  black  ivory,  or  slaves;  for  It  is  the  white  ivory  yield 
which  is  the  very  key-note  of  slavery  for  the  ill-favored  blacks 
who  are  captured  and  impressed  into  service  by  the  Arab  i\ory 
traffickers  to  transport  their  hauls  to  marketable  points,  and  then 
sold  when  their  task  is  accomplished.    Another  plea  for  proper 

and  humane  trans- 
portation, to  which 
obviou  si  y  Chris- 
tians, hu  m  a  n  i  t  a- 
rians,  commercial 
promoters,  coloniz- 
ers, should  lend 
unanimous  voice. 

Our  caravan 
was  constantly  be- 
ing joined  by  small 
Arab  caravans, 
who  were  bound 
jKWFi.i.r.D  pRFSKNis  FOR  sui.TANP.  '^  luterioT    to    the 

elephant  regions,  expecting  to  be  absent  from  the  coast  for 
one,  two,  and  three  years.  The  paucity  of  their  numbers, 
and  seeming  inefficiency  of  their  barter  goods,  provoked  me 
to  make  many  inciuiries  which  resulted  in  certain  revelations 
as  to    luno  it  is  dow. 

A  few  Arab  merchants,  none  of  the  number  particularly 
wealthy,  form  a  little  band  and  pool  their  money  to  venture 
themselves  or  employ  available  men  to    go  interior  for    ivory, 


DEPRAVED     WA-TEITA.  20'/ 

and  with  combined  forces  procure  the  smallest  possible 
number  of  porters  requisite  to  carry  their  wares,  and  forth- 
with proceed.  They  do  not  hesitate  to  plunder  the  natives 
of  their  accumulated  ivory,  which  they  usually  bury  for  safe 
keeping ;  or  purchase  at  a  rate  barely  removed  from  actual 
looting,  or  even  employ  native  hunters  to  bring  down  the 
elephants  and  secure  for  them  live  ivory  tcmbo.  When  they 
have  collected  sufficient,  without  hesitation,  in  the  name  of 
the  Sultan,  they  capture  strong  natives  to  carr\'  their  ill-gotten 
gains    to    the   coast    marts, 

The  surveillance  of  the  European  officers  over  the 
posts  and  stations  of  their  respective  governments,  in  order 
to  collect  the  duties  of  the  incoming  ivory  caravans,  has  a 
judicial  tendency  to  check  the  intlux  of  slaves.  The  Eng- 
lish, Germans,  French,  and  Belgians,  as  well  as  the  .Sultan 
of  Zanzibar  and  some  others,  have  united  and  pledged 
themselves  by  the  passage  of  a  law  to  suppress  slave  raiding 
and  to  free  newly  made  sla\es. 


208 


SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 


CHAPTER  X. 

ON   TO    '1"A  V  KTA. 

SELESS    to    mark    day    by    day    our 
progress  over  a    most  variable,   inter- 
esting   route    known    to  all    caravans 
who    hail   for  Taveta. 

The  scenery  at  times  was  superb, 
Lake  fipo  shone  like  a  copper 
„/  mirror,  and  now  and  ao;ain  we 
:_^^  caught  a  transitory  view  oi  the 
snow-capped  peak  of  Kilimanjaro, 
only  to  lose  it  in  the  great  sweeping  shoals  of  Huctuating 
mists.  Excitement  reigned  every  time  there  was  a  rift  in 
the  flufly  thick  mantle,  which  would  part  like  a  curtain 
drawn  back  from  the  centre,  in  consequence  of  the  saddle- 
like cut  between  the  illustrious  Ivibo  and  Mawenzi  ;  porters 
shrieked,  "  Kilimanjaro  !  Kilimanjaro  !  "  Erom  van  to  rear  the 
call  would  leap  from  their  lusty  throats  in  quick  succession. 
The  incomparable  grandeur  ami  limitless  expanse  offered 
the  fiekl  of  vision  put  my  heart  athrill,  and  I  felt  if  only 
for  this  glorious  sight  I  was  more  than  amply  rewarded 
for    all    the    hardships   incumbent   upon    the  undertaking    from 


ON     TO     'lAX'lClA. 


209 


beo-innine  to  those  lurkine  alontr  the  line  to  the  finish. 
Mountain  ranges  on  both  sides  of  us,  behind  us,  and  Kili- 
manjaro facing  us,  spaced  and  frontiered  b\-  long  stretches  of 
plains  over  which  bounded  magnificent  wild  beasts,  varied  by 


LAKE    JIPO. 

ravines,  sloping  hills,  silver  lakes,  and  gushing  streams  turbu- 
lent!)' rushing  seaward.  A  defined  tree  line,  the  point  where 
vegetation  about  ceases,  the  cloud  line,  and  far,  far  above  it 
all  the  peerless  domain  of  sun  and  moon  and  stars!  That 
picture  can   never  be  reproduced  b)'  word  or  color. 

Again  the  Masai  scare  stirred  m)'  cowardly  Zanzibaris.  We 
reached  a  point  by  a  dismal  pool  overshadowed  with  enormous 
trees,  called  Little  Lanjaro,  where  the  embers  of  the  fires 
were  still  smouldering,  and   the    remnants  of   a  meat  feed  all 


2IO 


SULTAN     'r(J     SULTAN. 


betokened  the  recent  presence  of  the  bogy-men,  so  the  por- 
ters acceded  with  a  degree  of  alacrity  to  my  command  to 
go  a  few  hours  further  on  to  Big  Lanjaro,  where  we  could 
comfortably  rest  during  a  day  in  camp  to  make  a  becoming 
entrance  into  the  forest-locked  arcadian  Taveta. 

Rain,   rain,   pelted  down   upon   us    with    unlooked-for    fury. 
With    a    howling   gasp    of   wind    that   drove  the  rain   into  our 

~~  faces,  all  was  o\'er,  the  sun  jjcered 

out  behind   the  clouds  and 
^J       soon  j)ut  the   storm   to 
light.         I'^verything 
fumed  and  steamed, 
and    the   sultriness 
became  almost  lui- 
bearable.        The 
men     rushed     and 


)lunged     into     the 


stream,      -which 
;oursed     below     our 
encampment,    to    cool 
iselves. 

.ere  ascending  a  hill, 
A  'JEST  OF  VALOR.  trjiug  to    liold    OUT   tootlug    on 

a  slippery  goat-path,  w-hen,  without  a  loud  spoken  word,  a 
dozen  porters  dashed  down  their  loads,  crowded  by  me,  com- 
pelling me  to  halt,  and  at  stated  distances  ahead  each  man 
grasped  a  sapling  from  the  side  of   the   hill    above    the    path 


ON     TO     TA\ETA.  2  I  I 

and  stood  on  die  very  edge  of  the  path  overlooknig'  a  wild, 
dangerous  ravine,  muttered  a  prayer  from  the  Koran,  and 
closed  his  eyes.  A  strange  rattling  of  stones,  crushing  of 
bushes,  and  clumps  of  flying  earth  came  from  above,  followed 
by  an  enormous  bowlder,  which  in  the  serpentine  trend  of 
the  path,  although  I  had  not  seen  it,  the  porters  on  the  out- 
ward curve  of  the  hill  had,  and  voluntarily  were  standing 
awaiting  a  doom  that  seemed  inevitable  to  try  and  sheer  the 
bowlder  off  of  its  destructive  course,   and  save  me. 

One  instant,  and  the  first  man  must  be  crushed.  He 
never  winced,  but  stood  his  ground  with  feet  firmly  planted, 
and  his  sinews  and  veins  standing  out  over  his  entire  body 
like  whipcords.  My  heart  sank.  I  felt  I  could  not  endure 
the  sight,  and  closed  my  eyes.  The  ground  crunched,  some- 
thing gave  way,  a  man  screamed,  and  there  was  a  new  crashing. 
My  eyes  flew  open  in  terror,  but  were  greeted  with  the  une.x- 
pected.  Just  as  the  bowlder  reached  within  one  foot  of  the 
first  man,  the  earth  crumbled,  and  it  went  swirling  to  the 
bottom,  and  the  brave  porter  lost  his  footing  and  was  clutch- 
ing the  shrubbery  right  and  left  as  he  rolled  down  to  save 
himself,  which  he  did,  and  all  the  other  brave  porters  went 
to  his  assistance.  I  made  a  detour  to  photograph  that  bowl- 
der as  it  lay  innocently  at  the  bottom,  by  the  side  of  which 
a  mountain  stream  went  purling  by  as  if  nothing  hatl  hap- 
pened.     I   christened  the  stone  "A  Test  ot  Valor." 

During  the  da)-  I  was  more  than  astounded  suddenly  to 
e.xperience  several  shocks  of  trembling  ot   the  earth,  and  upon 


2  I  2 


SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 


inqiiirj'    was     informetl    these     manifestations     of     suppressed 
earthquake    were    far    from    being    unusal     in     the    vicinit\-    of 

/eta  ;    and  although  then;    arc    no 
■idences    ot     a    recent    eruption, 
tlie    volcanic     character    of    the 
countr\'  just    bej'onti   and    the 
extinct  craters  of  the  Kiliman- 
jaro range  would  seem  to  be- 
token    that     at      some     future 
da\'  an    eruption   might    recur, 
brom    those  who    are    learnetl 
as  to  the  geological  character 
LiviNc;  iRF.ii  GATES  OF  -lAVF.iA.  of  this  regiou,   I   coukl  obtain 

no  knowledge  as  to  the  existence  of  any  fumaroles  which  might 
indicate  smouldering  or  latent   \-olcanic  action. 

Natives  are  ver\-  superstitious  about  these  tremblings,  and 
are  always  thrown  into  a  panic  during  their  mild  manilesta- 
tions,  and  seek  the  shelter  of  their  huts,  close  the  entrances, 
and  revive  the  fires,  as  they  huddle  together  in  their  apprehen- 
sion. The  thunder  rumbled  in  the  distance,  and  the  black 
clouds  were  cut  xiu/asf  across  the  dark  heavens  b\-  blinding 
lightning  dashes,  until  the  cataclysm  seems  to  relieve  the 
surcharged  heavens,  at  the  same  time  gorging  the  throat  of 
every  ra\'ine  and  water-wa)-.  These  fierce  outlireaks  ot  the 
elements  fortunately  are  of  short  duration,  and  immediately 
afterwards  the  country  is  smiling  and  fresh  as  possible,  and 
t'.ie    water    has    become    absorbed    by    the    porous    earth    and 


ON     TO     TAVETA. 


21' 


rocks  ;   if  storms  have   not  been  continuous,  soon  the  earth   is 
dry  again,  and  the  sands  and  rocks  have  been  greatly  cooled. 

Haniidi,  my  headman,  came  rushing  to  me  one  day, 
pointing  to  a  swirling  black  cloud  in  the  heavens  which 
seemed  to  be  a  centre  of  magnetic  attraction,  drawing  impetu- 
ously to  itself  all  other  clouds  until  they  rapidly  coalesced  as 
one  mass,  yet  the  greater  part  of  the  heavens  was  cerulean, 
fair,  and  simn\'. 

He  exclaimed  with  considerable  agita- 
tion, "  Bebe  Bwana,  we  must  set  the  tent 
for  you;  that  is  a  cloud-burst,  you'll  get 
drowned  with  the  rain  shortl)'."  W'ith  con- 
siderable curiosity,  I  queried  what  he  meant. 

"  That    cloud    will   wing    its     ^j^ 
\\a.\  tlirecth'  over  where  we  are 


now  marching  and  then   fall  to 
earth,    a  solid  sheet  of   water."       _ 

As  we    were   just    about    to     Cr  v_>'   r^' 
leave  a  valley,  and  I  saw  on  all   Iv  -(2!    ^-     ■^■ 
sides    the    natives    lleeing    to    (f^^'^fdT 
the    hills,   and    my  porters  all  ^^  •  '     ^  - 
edging    up    towards    the    de- 
clivities, I  concluded  I  should  like 
to    experience    a    cloud-burst,    hence 
refused     to    have     my    tent     set.      In    a   "•"•"  L'-nox  i-oii,  rxxAMF.n. 
moment    the  cloud  did  burst,   and   we   were   standinsr  enfrulfed 
by    the    downpoiiring    to    our   armpits     in    water    in    less    than 


2  14  SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 

three  minutes,  and  in  less  than  ten  minutes  we  were  able 
to  proceed  on  our  march  with  no  evidence  of  the  transi- 
tory deluge,  save  the  moist,  glossy  appearance  of  the  stones 
and  foliage,  and  the  balmy  freshness  of  the  atmosphere. 
This  manifestation  of  the  elements  is  not  peculiar  to  Africa  ; 
but  since  my  return  one  or  two  Peruvian  travellers  have  im- 
parted to  me  a  similar  experience.  I  felt  well  repaid  for  my 
obstinacy,  and  thoroughly  enjoyed  the  adventure. 

Hamidi  informed  me,  with  some  hesitation,  that  it  would 
be  impossible  to  get  my  Palanquin  through  the  forest  gates 
of  Taveta,  as  they  were  so  low  the  men  would  have  to  push 
their  ordinary  compact  loads  through,  then  crawl  in  after  them. 
Here  was  a  dilemma.  However,  "  the  Palanquin  must  go 
where  I  20,"  that  settled  it,  and  it  did  enter  Taveta  more 
than  once,  despite  the  gates  ;  twenty  yards  of  unbleached 
calico    paved  the  way. 

Wa-Taveta  men,  women,  and  children  came  far  on  the 
road  as  we  approached  Taveta  to  bid  me  welcome,  to  bring 
me  tributes  of  all  kinds,  to  say  to  the  ivliiic  queen,  as  they 
persisted  in  calling  me,  that  they  had  looked  for  me  for  two 
moons,  and  almost  despaired  that  1  would  ever  arrive.  Then 
they  asked  about  bioaiia  this,  and  that,  and  the  other  who 
had  visited  them  in  years  agone. 

Presently  we  met,  at  the  confines  of  the  forest  environing 
Taveta,  a  sentinel  from  the  English  post,  who  fired  at  least  a 
dozen  shots  in  salutation,  and  informed  me  that  the  officer 
in  charge  was  absent,  but  had  made  preparations  to  entertain 


o^ 


a; 

z 
o 


in 


*^^*. 


ON     TO     TAVETA.  2I5 

m(;  in  his  boiua.  How  strange  this  sounded,  after  haxing, 
hved   in   the  open   under  canvas  ! 

We  began  to  \\end  our  waj-  through  the  densest  of 
forest,  gloomy,  dark,  difficult  to  advance  rapidly  with  the 
f  a  1 1  e  n  giant  trees,' 
o\'erhanging  \ines, 
and    ceneral    tano"le  'iaveta  i'ink  ami  whim.  liEAu  uirdi.e. 

obstructing  the  wa)',  antl  in  places  sogg)'  and  hideously 
muddy,  after  crawling  through  gates  constructed  out  of  living 
trees  which  evidently  had  been  trained  from  their  stripling 
period  until  their  tall,  thick,  raddled  branches  and  huge 
trunks  in  course  of  years  constitute  formidable  barriers. 
There  are,  I  was  told,  thirteen  such  gates,  makino-  Taveta 
impregnable  to  the  attack  ol  an  enemy.  The  tiny  cone- 
shaped  entrance,  not  three  feet  high,  and  about  the  same  in 
width  at  the  bottom,  is  blocked  b)'  rolling  huge  logs  against 
the  gap.  Not  only  is  Taveta  stockaded  thus,  but  the 
tortuous  maze-like  paths  diverging  in  all  ways  leading  up 
to  a  stream  to  be  resumed  on  the  other  bank,  and  the 
scatteretl  boiiias,  instead  of  congregations  of  huts,  would 
perplex,  def\-,  and  frustrate  an)-  strange  invader. 

An  awe  crept  over  me.  The  porters  were  hushed,  as  we 
struggled  to  threail  our  wa)-,  imtil  we  attained  the  splendid 
plantations  of  bananas,  corn,  sugar-cane,  and  tobacco.  Arrayed 
in  brave  splendors,  the  belles  and  beau.x,  the  husbands  and 
wives,  crowded  about  us.  The  porters  greeted  old  acquaint- 
ances, and  were  welcomed  in  return  with  unmistakable  fervor. 


2l6  SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 

Almost  all  the  huts  and  officers'  quarters  of  the  English 
post,  which  is  the  market  place  of  the  Wa-Taveta,  were 
placed  at  my  service.  Great  and  many  preparations  had  been 
made  by  the  resident  officer,  who  had  sent  a  letter  to  await 
me,  sa\ing  that  he  was  on  the  road  to  Taveta,  and  would 
hasten  if  I  sent  him  word.  He  arrived,  with  his  assistant 
and  posse  of  men,   in  a  few  hours. 

My  caravan  was  installed  under  cover,  but  I  declined  to 
accept  any  shelter  apart  from  my  canvas  dwelling,  although 
I  found  the  new  house  of  the  assistant  a  convenient 
storehouse  and  agreeable  to  retire  to  and  put  up  my 
personal  attendants.  I  was  deeply  touched  at  the  efforts 
made  in  my  behalf  to  beautify  and  make  convenient  this 
little  hut.  It  means  more  in  East  Africa  than  in  great 
centres  of  civilization,  where  the  refinements  and  accessories 
of  comfort  are  easy  to  obtain. 

Never  was  woman  more  indulged  and  feted  than  was  I 
during  my  sojourn.  My  eye  had  become  greatl)-  inflamed, 
and  I  was  tenderly  ministered  to  by  men  who  did  not  hesi- 
tate to  administer  personally  the  kibosh  to  any  wayward 
fellow  imder  his  command,  and  this  care  for  me  was  delicate, 
sympathetic,  almost  reverential.  Gentlemen,  I  publicly  thank 
you   now  ;  you  had  not  to  do  with  an   mgrate. 

Caravans  always  make  a  habit  of  halting  at  Taveta 
sufficient  time  to  string  their  barter  beads,  in  consequence 
of  the  abundant  growth  of  rapliia  ]>alm,  generally  known  as 
niioliala ;  its  fibre  is  stranded  into  threads    of   various    thick- 


ON     TO     TAVETA. 


2  17 


nesses.  These  incomings  and  outgoings  keep  the  natives 
in  a  perpetual  state  of  expectancy  and  fete,  as  it  were.  The 
market  place  and  camping  ground  is  within  the  homa  of  the 
English  post,  and  in  order  to  collect  the  duties  upon  the 
ivory  there  existed  the  somewhat  arbitrary  and  uncomfortable 
law,    when   I    halted  at  Taveta,   enforcing    all    caravans    bound 


FOUR    PO^rBE    CUPS. 

for  the  coast,  no  matter  what  their  destination  or  purpose,  to 
camp  within  the  bonia  under  the  immediate  inspection  of  the 
resident  officer  and  his  askari. 

Wa-Taveta  raise  an  excellent  quality  of  tobacco,  although 
a  trifle  coarse  through  lack  of  proper  cultivation,  which  they 
do  not  habitually  either  chew  or  smoke,  but  use  lavishly  as 
snuff,  and  the  habit  is  prevalent  among  the  women  as  well 
as  the  men.  This  is  universal  among  all  tribes  in  East 
Africa. 

Their  snuff-boxes  are  most  varied  and  highly  decorated, 
often    most    beautiful.     The    ceremony  of    snuff  taking    quite 


2l8 


SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 


outrivals  the  former  court  etiquette  respecting  the  same  in 
France  and  other  countries  of  the  last  century.  When  the 
compliments  of  the  clay  and  polite  salutations  are  at  an 
end,  snuff  is  proffered  and  taken  all  aroiunl.  Having  been 
informed  of  this  custom,  I  had  taken  a  large  supply  of  snuff 
and  tobacco  with  me.  Whenever  a  snuff-box  was  presented 
to  me  by  m}'  request  or  \olimtaril\'  by  an)'  native  ot  any 
tribe,  every  atom  of  the  snuff  was  patient))'  extracted  with 
jealous  care    before  the  donor  surrendered  it  to  me. 

Their  plantations   are  fertile,  owing    to  the  fact    that    their 
district  never  suffers  from  prolonged  droughts.      In  good  truth 

water  can   be  obtained  anywhere  in 
this   village    by    using    an    Abys- 
sinian    pipe,    and     the     stream 
which     cuts    through     in     the 
woodland    part    of    the    settle- 
ment    is    reputed     always     to 
contain   abimdant  water. 
On    all    sides  could   be    seen 
in     thrift)'    condition     quantities    of 
sweet     corn, — -maize, — wimbe,     or 
millet,     pumpkins,     tomatoes,    sugar-cane, 
several    varieties    of    bananas,    a    number 
TAVETA  BEAD  COLLAR  AND  NECKLACE.         of     edible     vlues     wliicli     arc 
cooked    as    greens    or    eaten    as    salad,     and     sweet     potatoes 
that  were   somewhat  fibrous. 

The    English  officers  have  placet!    a  haml-mill  within   their 


ON     TO     TAVKTA.  2I9 

boma  for  their  own  use,  but  generously  accord  to  the  natives 
the  privilege  of  using  it  to  grind  their  corn  and  banana  Hour ; 
this  relieves  them  of  the  tedious  process  of  pounding  the 
grain  and  dried  fruit  in  a  wooden  or  stone  mortar,  with  a 
heavy  wooden  pestle, —  an  advantage  they  evidently  seem  to 
highly  appreciate,  for  the  mill  is  never  idle  all  day  long. 
Heretofore  the  women  were  allotted  the  task  of  pulverizing 
the  corn  and  bananas  to  an  impalpable  flour,  and  with  ma- 
ternal solicitude  strapped  their  babes  upon  their  l^acks,  afraid 
to  put  the  little  ones  on  the  ground  on  account  of  the  rav- 
ages of  the  white  ants,  and  they  would  be  quieted  and 
rocked  to  sleep  by  the  swaying  motion  of  the  mother's  body 
as  she  monotonously  wielded  the  heavy  pestle. 

Honey  bees  thrive,  and  the  Wa-Taveta  manufacture 
quantities  of  beehives  out  of  logs ;  they  are  cylindrical  in 
shape,  three  to  four  feet  long,  and  a  foot  and  a  half  in  diam- 
eter, hollowed  out  and  then  closed  at  one  end,  with  a  punc- 
ture at  the  other  to  admit  the  ingress  and  egress  of  the 
bees. 

The  honey  is  rather  dark  in  color,  but  most  delicious  in 
flavor  and  plentitul.  It  is  put  in  hide  boxes  or  calabashes. 
We  several  times  came  across  dead  hollow  tree-trunks,  branches 
lopped,  standing  erect,  covered  over  with  a  removable  piece 
of  hide,  punctured  to  admit  the  bees,  which  were  used  for 
hives.     These  primitives  are  utilitarians  by  nature. 

Made  hives  are  hung  in  the  trees  on  the  track  of  the 
bee  ranges,  where  honey  flowers  are  most  abundant.     A  similar 


220 


SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 


Utensil  to  the  made  beehives  is  used  in  which  to  brew 
their  pombc\  a  concoction  of  sugar-cane,  bananas,  or  cocoanut, 
wimbe,  and  corn.  When  the  masli  is  fresli  tlie  beverage 
tastes  very  much  like  unfermented  mead  or  beer,  but  in  the 
course  of  three  days  fermentation  has  reached  a  point  when 
the   brew    becomes  a  subtle  intoxicant ;  and  as  it  is  profusely 

^J  brewed  by  al- 
most  every  na- 
tive of  the  tribe, 
they  are  during 
liarvest  times  in 
a  perpetual  state 
of  jollification, 
and  all  the  un- 
amiable  qualities 
and  propensities 
I  if  their  natures 
seem  to  be 
strangely  affect- 
ed by  this  in- 
toxicant. It  is  a 
mistake  to  say 
that  the  Africans 
have  been  pollu- 
ted in  this  respect  by  the  invasion  of  white  men,  because  they 
have  always,  as  far  as  one  can  ascertain,  used  potnbe  and  tcmbo 
or  other  native  drinks. 


TIIK    WdMAX    I  IF    TAVETA. 


ON     TO     TAVETA.  2  2  I 

At  Taveta  I  met  a  woman,  whom  I  please  to  call  "  The 
Woman  of  Taveta,"  who  was  in  sore  trouble.  Immediately 
upon  seeing  me,  if  I  may  use  the  expression,  she  adopted 
me  into  her  confidence,  and  all  her  troubles  were  poured  into 
my  ears,  and  by  her  earnestness  she  so  engaged  my  interest 


BEAD    KELT    PRESENTED    KY    THE    WOMAN    OF    TAVETA. 

and  sympathy  it  was  a  delight  to  try  and  assist  her  to 
some  better  state  of  daily  existence,  which  would  preclude 
certain  trials  she  was  subjected  to.  She  was  a  woman 
of  intense  feeling,  a  lover  of  power,  indeed  was  a  leader 
among  women,  and  the  wife  of  one  of  the  elders.  Her 
word  seemed  to  be  beyond  dispute  with  them  all.  She 
was  eager  that  I  should  be  a  friendly  witness  to  all  of 
the  strange  customs  and  habits  of  her  tribe,  and  she  had  the 
power  as  well  as  willingness  to  give  me  the  open  sesame  to 
them  all.  Twice  at  midnight,  when  the  moon  dances  of  the 
cl-nioraii,  from  which  women  of  the  tribe  are  excluded,  were 
in  lull  swing,  she  stole  to  my  tent,  mysteriously  signed  me 
to  follow,  and  silently  led  me  through  the  forest  to  a  seques- 
tered spot  to  be  an  unseen  spectator  to  the  wild,  riotous 
performance  of    the  utterly  nude    fellows,  who    were    unaware 


222 


SULTAN     Tf)     SULTAN. 


of  the  presence  of  an  interloper.  Thus  I  was  enabled  to 
become  familiar  with  customs  forbidden  to  the  presence  of 
white  men.  How  they  pranced,  gyrated,  leaped  in  the  air, 
squatted  on  the  ground  and  hooted,  shook  their  long  hair 
and  waved  branches  or  brushes  made  of  zebra  tails,  their 
faces  daubed,  Masai  fashion,  with  white  chalk  and  red  paint, 
splotches  on  their  cheeks,  chins,  and  their  eyes  encircled  with 
broad  bantls  of  color,  their  bodies  shinine  with  erease  under 
the  rays  of  the  moon  as  the  perspiration 
started    from  every  pore ! 

riirnugh    the  Woman  of  Taveta's   instru- 

mentalit}',     I     saw    a     funeral      ceremony     in 

which    the  stift    corpse   of    a    chikl  was  fixed 

in    a    sitting    posture    amidst    blazing    fagots, 

until    all   the    flesh    was    burnt    off    from    the 

bones.       Meanwhile     the     men     formed     an 

inner    circle    arouml     the    funeral     pyre,    and 

p^ave  vent    in    a    lusjubrious   voice    to    a    mo- 

notonous  chant,  slowly  moving  in  an  unbroken 

img  round  and   romiil,  whilst  the  women,  form- 

mg  an  outer  circle,   moved  in  a  reverse  direction, 

and  as  if  in  response  to  the  threnody  of  the  men, 

at    stated     intervals     they    would     make     a 

calf's  stom.'^ch  .  ,  1        1  -1         1     •      1        1 

sweepmo"    salaam,     and    while;     then-    heads 

HEAD-DRESS,    ORNA-  '        =• 

MENTED  WITH  READS     wcre     Still     bowecl,     utter     a     piercing    wail. 

AND    CHAINS.  ,p,  ,.      ,  •         n        I  1 

1  he  little    ones   tiesh  was   soon    consumed; 
only  the    bones    remained;    the  skull    was    taken   and    reposed 


ox     TO     TAVETA. 


in  a  rude  pottery  urn,  then  carried  to  some  distance  and 
lowered  into  a  hollow  tree  containing  the  skulls  of  the  de- 
ceased members  of  the  family.  The  bones  were  gathered 
up  by  several  men  bedecked  in  flowing  red  and  white  cloths 
and  interspersed  through  the  forest,  evidently  in  places  which 
were  already  consecrated  for  the  deposition  of 
such  revered  remnants 
of  the  dead,  amid  the 
exposed   tree-trunks. 


but  not  under  the  ground. 
The)'  have  a  strange  idea  that  the 
cadaver  pollutes  the  soil,  and  de- 
ters the  fertility  of  crops.  This  habit 
of  disposing  of  the  bones  of  those  who  have  died  normal 
deaths,  and  the  arboreal  vaults  with  their  accumulation  of 
bones,  account  for  the  suppositions  that  there  have  been 
massacres  committed,  or  that  disease  has  ravaged  the  land 
when  found  by  caravans.  There  exists  another  burial  custom 
much  more  obnoxious.  In  a  selected  cleared  spot  not  very 
remote  from  their  boiuas,  well  surrounded  and  hidden  by 
thorn-bushes  and  trees  with  dense  foliage,  beyond  the  obser- 
vation of  casual  passers-by,  if  it  were  not  for  the  foul,  fetid 
stench,  in  rude  pottery  urns  turned  up  sidewajs  are  deposited 
certain  parts  of  the  viscera,  the  heart  and  the  head,  and  there 
allowed  to  fester  and  decay,  until  in  time  nothing  is  lett 
but  the  whitened  skull.  These  burial  places  are  not  infre- 
quently met  with  in  all  the  villages  I  \'isited ;  they  are  entered 


2  24  SULTAN    TO     SULTAN. 

by  a  very  low  squatty  opening  through  the  thorn-bushes, 
compelling  those  who  seek  to  effect  an  entrance  to  get  down 
and  crawl  through  on  their  hands  and  knees. 

The  idea  prevails  that  by  the  preservation  of  the  skull  the  spirit 
of  the  departed  is  saved,  and  that  the  congregation  in  one  place 
of  the  skulls  of  a  family  or  tribe  guarantees  a  future  reunion. 
Superstitions  concerning  death  are  decidedly  obscure  and 
extremely  heterogeneous  in  East  Africa,  and  yet  there  are 
little  threads  which  have  various  origins,  running  through  the 
tissue  of  what  may  be  called  their  religion. 
They  worship  the  moon  and  the  sun, 
and  revel  in  sonofs  or  chants  addressed 
to  the  rain  during  planting  seasons. 
The  Wa-Duruma  near  the  coast  beat 
drums,  but  they  are  the  only  tribe  in 
the  part  of  East  Africa  I  visited  where 
BRASS  WIRE  SPRING  NECKLACE,   they  use  clrums. 

A  decided  aversion  among  all  tribes  exists  in  respect  to 
permitting  an  outsider  to  know  of  the  death  of  one  of  their 
number  ;  if  a  familiar  is  missed,  and  an  inquiry  made  concerning 
the  absence  of  such  a  one,  an  answer  promptly  comes,  "He 
has  gone  on  a  safari" — doubtless  to  the  great  hereafter. 

Among  the  Masai  the  corpses  are  often  tossed  into  the 
open,  where  vultures  or  wild  beasts  soon  devour  them. 

The  birth  of  a  first  child  is  quite  an  event,  but  not  so 
subsequent  births.  Children  are  not  numerous  in  any  one 
family  or  sections  of  families. 


ON    TO    TAVETA.  225 

Elders,  or  the  oldish  men  who  formerly,  before  the 
occupancy  of  the  English,  exercised  a  dictatorship  over 
their  tribe,  strut  about  in  a  majestic  way,  with  as  much 
sheeting  as  they  can  afford,  ten,  twelve,  or  fifteen  yards  of 
Americana  or  white  or  unbleached  or  clay-stained  drill  or 
cotton  cloth,  varied  occasionally  by  Turkey  red,  or  lasso 
bandana  handkerchiefs,  — which  trail  behind 
them,  fastened  over  the  shoulder,  much  like 
a  Roman  toga  ;  and  they  have  infinite  grace 
both    in    manner    and    speech,    which   seems 

'■  COTTON  CAP  MADE 

to  marry  well  with  their  surroundings.  on  safari. 

Many  wear  slung  over  their  shoulders,  attached  to  a 
leather  strap  or  chain,  a  little  three  or  four  legged  stool, 
which  they  carry,  as  they  do  their  bows  and  arrows,  wherever 
they  go,  and,  when  paying  a  call  or  chatting  in  the  open 
with  their  comrades,  they  plant  it  on  the  ground  to  comfort- 
ably sit  upon,  and  take  out  from  the  knotted  corner  of  a 
bit  of  cloth  their  bead  work,  just  as  might  a  young  white 
girl  engage  in  fancy  work;  these  effeminate 
warriors    leave    the    toilsome    avocations    of 


tilling  the  ground,  and  caring  for  the  cattle, 
COTTON  CAP  MADE     and    packing    loads,    and    the    duties    of  the 


ON  SAFARI.  1-^1  1 

kitchen  to  the  women. 


Almost  every  individual,  man,  woman,  and  child,  in  the 
Taveta  community  or  tribe,  carries  a  pombe  cup,  made  from 
a  gourd,  to  which  is  affixed  a  long  handle,  sometimes  beaded 
or  ornamented  with  metal  rings  ;   the  bowl  of  the   cup  usually 


226  SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 

bears  numerous  effective  devices,  which  make  an  interesting 
study  to  trace  their  origin.  Many  ot  the  designs  have  been 
adapted  with  more  or  less  variation,  prompted  by  the  taste 
of  the  copyist,  from  the  scroll  work  on  the  little  cotton  caps 
which  porters  delight  in  making  and  wearing  when  on  safari ; 
sometimes  too  they  were  of  Turkish,  again  even  Persian  or 
Egyptian  origin.  I  consider  as  a  great  acquisition  the  pos- 
session of  a  pombe  cup  which  bears  upon  obverse  and 
reverse  sides  the  first  attempt  I  found  or  heard  of  to  repre- 
sent   the    human     form     divine  ;     and    quaintly    enough,     the 

white  man   is  distintjuishable  bv  his    feet, 

>  .  .      . 

^-     which    are    indicated  by  awkward  lines  to 


ounterfeit     shoes,     and     a    school-child's 
slate  and  pencil  angular  lines  to  represent 
European    clothing ;    whereas,    the    native 
iNLAin  WOODEN  BOWL.      Is    reprcseutecl    with    bare    feet,  and  ears 
stretched  out  of   shape  by  heavy  ear-rings. 

Strange  as  it  niay  seem,  when  shown  photographs,  natives 
have  as  a  rule  no  real  conception  or  appreciation  of  the 
photographic  semblance  of  human  beings  or  animals.  Sul- 
tans Mireali,  Mandara,  and  a  few  others  are  notable  excep- 
tions to  this  obtuseness.  Photography  is  regarded  as  a 
species    of  witchcraft  or  black  magic. 

There  are  certain  beans  and  some  sweet  grasses  made 
into  beads,  and  bits  of  horn,  amber,  iron,  wood,  animals'  teeth 
and  glass  beads,  musk  and  xanilla,  which  are  universally  worn 
as  charms,   alike  to  ward  off   evil  as  for  dazva,  or  medicine,  for 


ON    TO    TA\ETA. 


2  2  7 


all  maladies.  Their  possessors  are  very  reluctant  to  part  with 
these  charms,  or  (^a7va.  However,  the)'  will  lend  them  one  to 
another,  when  suffering,  but  always  reclaim  them  when  the 
recipient  has  been  alleviated,  or  before  if  personally  needed. 
With  some  difficulty  I  procured  a  string  of  these  beads  from 
a  magic  doctor  who  had  lost  caste,  in  consequence  of  his  mis- 
fortune in   permitting  a  man  of  importance  to  die  during    his 


DAWA    NECKL.-iCE. 


ministrations,  hence  he  desired  to  capitalize  his  stock  of 
charms  and  bad  dazoa,  and  make  haste  to  the  coast,  knowing 
that  his  own  life  was  in  imminent  jeopard)-.  Peculiar  black 
pine-like  needles  obtained  from  a  huge  forest  tree,  the  name 
of  which  I  could  not  ascertain,  these  are  punctured,  and  when 
strung  resemble  the  coarse  teeth  of  a  large  rubber  comb, 
and   are   much-prized  dauia  for  enceinte  women. 

Strange     native     medical    practices    were    revealed    to    me 


228 


SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 


through  the  auspices  of  the  Woman  of  Taveta.  The  old 
women  are  all  skilled  midwives.  Mothers  suffer  ver)'  little 
during  the  period  of  gestation  or  in  the  throes  ot  childbirth. 
A  girl  reaches  puberty  at  the  infantile  age  of  ten.  Youths 
are  circumicised  by  their  own  election  when  they  no  longer 
wish  to  be  children,  but  aspire  to  the  station  of  cl-moran,  as 
early  often  as  the  age  of  twelve.  The  custom  of  circum- 
cision must  have  maintained  for  many  decades,  for  nature 
frequently  simulates  it,  and  the  parents  boast  of  an  offspring 

m 


■liii 


TAVATA    BEAD    BELTS. 

SO    pre-eminendy    destined   to    be  a  warrior,  and   the    favored 
boy  is  pointed  out  as  one  elect. 

All  the  natives  are  most  delicate  about  alluding  to  any 
complaints  of  \h<t\x  titniba  (abdomen).  All  seem  to  possess  a 
minor  yet  practical  knowledge  of  the  use  of  herbs  and 
roots,  and  of  imported  medicaments.  Sulphur,  cjuinine,  blue- 
stone  tlo  they  beseech  the  leaders  of  caravans  for.  They 
suffer  from  itch,  ulcers,  sore  eyes,  and  fevers.  The  Woman  of 
Taveta  told  me  of  bubbling  hot-water  ziwis  (springs  or  pools) 
where  those  who  were  afflicted  with  various  diseases,  includ- 
ing   smallpox    and    elephantiasis,  made    pilgrimages  and   were 


ON    TO    TAVETA. 


229 


benefited,  and  of  certain  clays  tliat  the  W'andorobo  knew 
about  and  brought  down  country  that  possessed  curative 
properties  for  coughs  and  stiff  joints,  a  species  of  rheumatism, 
and  sometimes  progressive  paralysis  caused  from  excessive 
drinking  and  exposure  to  the  ele- 
ments. This  paralysis,  with 
marked  and  retributive  selec- 
tion, inflicts  the  sultans  and 
important  men  of  tribes,  who 
are  in  position  to  command  the 
largest  harems,  and  indulge 
themselves  like  Sybarites. 

Personal    decoration   at- 
tains   a   very   great    height 

TAVETA  STOOL,  MADE  OUT  OF  ONE  PIECE. 

at  Taveta,  especially  among  the 
young  men,  who  are  much  given 
to  dressing  their  hair  in  a  very 
quaint  fashion,  drawing  it  in 
braided  clumps,  hanging  down 
sr  over    the  face    and    divided 

^S^  in  strands  made  over  the 
back  of  the  head,  hanging 
over  the  shoulders,  which  they  plaster  with  grease  and  red  clay, 
to  which  they  frequently  add  bead  and  metal  pendants.  These 
young    fellows,  who    represent    the    Taveta  snobs,  smear  their 


TOP  OF  STOOL,  DESIGNS  BUR.NT  IN'. 


230  SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 

bodies  with  grease,  and  tint  tlitniselves  with  red  clay.  They 
are  very  self-conscious  and  great  posers,  the  very  princes  of 
dawdlers  and  slaves  of  fashion.  They  divide  themselves  up 
into  little  bevies,  almost  clubs,  and  they  wear  as  an  insignia 
or  badge  of  fellowship  or  brotherhood  little  armlets  made  of  a 
strip  of  cowhide,  upon  which  are  sewn  beads  in  special 
devices  and  chosen  colors,  which  seem  to  indicate  their 
particular  faction  or  club.  They  are  great  dancers  and 
merrymakers.  The  young  fellows  gather  in  groups  and 
dance  as  though  in  competition,  one  with  the  other;  a  dar- 
ing aspirant  will  dash  out  from  the  circle  apart  from  his 
companions,  rush  into  the  middle  of  a  circumscribed  space, 
and  scream  out,  "Wow!  wow!"  another  follows  him  and 
screams  in  the  same  way;  and  a  third,  and  so  on.  These 
men  will  dance  with  their  knees  almost  rigid,  jumping  into 
the  air  faster  and  faster,  until  they  bound  with  amazing 
velocity,  and  their  excitement  becomes  proportionately 
greater,  and  their  energy  wa.xes  more  and  more  spasmodic, 
leaving  the  ground  frequentl\-  fully  three  feet  as  they  spring 
into  the  air.  At  some  of  their  festivals  at  which  I  was  a 
spectator,  this  dancing  was  carried  to  such  a  pass  that  I  have 
seen  during  a  crisis  a  young  fellow's  muscles  quiver  from 
head  to  foot,  and  his  jaws  tremble  until  his  teeth  chattered 
like  castanets  in  playing  a  tremolo,  without  any  apparent  ability 
on  his  part  to  control  himself,  until  he  foamed  at  the  mouth, 
his  eyes  swimming  about,  his  head  wagging  idiotically,  from 
his   drivelling  lips  issued    moans    and    shudders,    and    as    one 


ON    TO    TAVETA.  23 1 

drunk  finally  he  fell  in  a  paroxysm  upon  the  ground,  to  be 
carried  away  to  a  ])lace  of  retirement  by  his  companions 
until  he  resumed  his  calmness. 

This  state  of  seeking  artificial  physical  excitement  bears 
a  singular  resemblance  to  the  dances  of  other  people  out- 
side of  Africa.  I  am  not  purposing  to  make  deductions,  but 
I  think  there  is  considerable  opportunity  to  study  compari- 
sons as  to  the  motive  which  prompts  various  people  to  en- 
gage in  this  physical  excitement.  It  would  seem  to  emanate 
from  an  undefinable  species  of  voluptuousness. 

The    women  also  engaged    in    dances,      ^t^-^y 
and  especially  as  guests,    during  wedding    '/' 


festivities,    bedecked    with    all    their    fine     ^i!;^,™...  ,,_^ 

toggery,    they    separate    themselves    from       '''••'■'iK^^^^.li'^^'' 

the   men  and  follow  in  a  procession,  one  ■«  \>»~^ 

child's  bead  fringe 
after    another,    with     their     hands     upon  girdle. 

each  other's  shoulders  or  hips,  beating  their  feet  in  time,  and 
singing  a  strange,  monotonous  plaint,  now  and  then  inter- 
spersed with  shouts  of  laughter  when  they  resume  their 
measured  processional  steps,  jingling  all  the  bells  they  have 
about  them  with  a  peculiar  jerk  and  lling  of  their  hips  and 
shoulders  as  they  go  round  and  round,  threading  their  way 
through  the  forest,  back  again  to  the  />omc7  of  the  host  of 
ceremony,  drinking  and  carousing  quite  as  much  as  the 
young  fellows.  A  certain  amount  of  dignity  is  put  upon 
these  gayeties  by  the  presence  of  the  elders;  however,  there 
seems    no    viciousness    in    any    of   their   games  and  pleasures. 


232  SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 

They  have  a  certain  amount  of  animation  and  youthful  ex- 
hilaration, which  expresses  and  expends  itself  in  an  abandon 
to  muscular  exhibits  and  jocose  explosiveness. 

They  are  very  jealous  of  each  other  in  their  attentions  to 
the  uiziingu  (white  man),  and  seemed  especially  so  respect- 
ing m)'self;  one  family  would  briny  me  milk  and  eggs,  but 
seeing  that  somebod)-  had  superseded  them,  would  im- 
mediately commence  a  tirade  as  to  the  bad  quality  ot  the 
other's  eifts,  and  recommend-    j)   ing    their    own    with    great 

vivacit)-.  However,  they  were 
so  pleased  to  have  the  "white 
queen"  with    them,   there  was 


\\    nothing    among    their    posses- 
ja    sions  which   I   really  craved  in 
the  end  they  did  not  give  me. 
FINE  CHAIN  GIRDLE.  Qf    coursc,    it    is    wcll    uudet- 

stood  that  these  gifts  were  alwajs  reciprocated  by  me,  it  not 
in  kind,  certainly  in  excess  of  value,  but  that  does  not  in 
an)'  way  detract  from  the  fact  that  they  were  willing  gifts, 
and  i)resented  with  a  free,  open  hand,  without  expectation 
of  return,  as  a  tribute  to  the   "  white  queen." 

Poinding  the  children  very  merry,  I  endeavored  to  amuse 
them  in  every  conceivable  way.  Soap  bubbles  were  failures, 
tops  successful,  and  huge  colored  balls  great  favorites. 
Masks  of  animals'  heads  and  grotesque  human  faces  simply 
threw  children  and  adults  into  jjaroxysms  ot  glee,  until  the 
fun  became  rather  too  boisterous,  and  my  porters  overstepped 


ON    TO    TAVETA.  233 

the  mark.  As  it  was  a  gala  day,  and  my  four  music 
boxes  were  playing,  it  occurred  to  me  a  fine  opportunity  to 
let  fly  some  large  Japanese  paper  kites,  imitating  birds 
and  fish,  iVom  which  floated  long  streamers  of  bright-colored 
taes.  Takino-  the  end  of  the  strings  of  several  at  once,  the  brisk 
breeze  inflated  and  carried  them  on  their  aerial  flight  far  and 
swiftlv  into  the  air.  True,  the  children  were  attracted,  but 
lo  I  instead  of  inspiring  the  delight  I  had  expected,  quick  as 
a  flash  the  alert  little  chaps  whipped 
their  bows  from  ofi  their  shoulders,  at 
the  same  time  jerked  their  arrows  from 
their  quivers,  and  with  deadly  aim  shot 
my  poor  kites,  with  imminent  danger  to 
me,  as  their  arrows  spattered  about  very 
freel}-.  The  voile)'  was  not  discon- 
tinued   until    every   winged    bird    and 

r    1  1  ,1  111  I!ONE   .ARMLET. 

nsh     was     brought     low,     the     breath 

knocked  out  of  it,  falling  vanquished  to  the  ground,  a  shabby, 
shapeless  thing,  for  the  youngsters  were  animated  more  by  the 
inborn  traits  of  hunter  than  juvenile  play. 

Not  so  with  the  adults.  The)-  queried  with  deep  concern 
what  kept  the  aerials  mid-air,  and  with  much  e.xcitement  ex- 
claimed and  pointed  to  them  as  they  floated  serenely  sky- 
ward when  1  ran  out  in  the  open,  free  from  trees,  with  my 
arms  outstretched  over  my  head,  manoeuvring  to  keep  the 
strings  from  becoming  entangled.  The  vandal  youngsters 
were    summarily    waved    away    irom    my    encampment    by  the 


234  SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 

elders,  who  evidently  thought  it  the  most  natural  thing-  that 
I  would  eive  vent  to  g^reat  ancer  at  the  wilful  destruction 
of  my  air  birds  and  fish. 

The  children  amuse  themselves,  as  do  other  children,  vying 
with  each  other  shooting  at  a  mark  and  at  birds  on  wing  with 
their  bows  and  arrows,  which  they  succeed  in  doing  with  great 
dexterity.  They  have  some  idea  of  forming  companies  and 
drilling,  and  accept  a  leader  whom  they  are  disposed  to  follow. 
Their  education  is  a  rudimentary  one  of  imitation,  and  not  of 
instruction.  They  are  impressionable  and  observing.  Their 
reasoning  faculties  naturally  would  be  quickened  and  vivified  by 
attrition  and  calling  them  into  play,  although  at  present  they 
are,  at  times,  somewhat  slow  to  comprehend  innovations  to 
their  old  habits  and  customs.  They  are  afraid  of  monkeys,  and 
the  lemur  makes  frequent  nocturnal  visitations  to  the  settle- 
ments, to  the  distress  of  the  people. 

There  are,  in  parts  of  these  woods,  the  most  beautiful 
butterflies,  and  some  bright-plumaged  birds  and  marvellous 
beetles. 

Many  of  the  men  wear  upon  their  arms  jaw-shaped  armlets, 
which  are  placed  upon  the  arm  in  )outh  before  the  muscles  are 
developed,  and  become  imbedded  in  the  expanded  flesh  to  such 
an  extent  that  removal  is  almost  like  amputation,  so  painful  and 
difficult  is  the  operation.  Upon  the  three  arms  from  which  I 
took  the  armlets  I  have  in  my  possession,  the  scars  were  so 
pronounceil  and  disfiguring  that  the  owners  of  the  surrendered 
ornaments  insisted  that  they  should  have  a  substitute  of  suffi- 


ON    TO    TAVETA.  235 

cient  metal  armlets  to  entirely  cover  the  scars.  There  may  be 
traced  a  great  significance  and  analogy  between  these  bracelets 
with  the  thyrsus  of  old.  I  was  told  by  a  very  intelligent  elder 
that  the  figures  graven  on  the  reverse  side  of  these  armlets  rep- 
resented the  male  and  female  organs  of  generation,  and  the 
armlet  itself  was  of  moon  origin;  and  this  was  all  I  could  de- 
duce from  them.  But  considering  that  the  moon  —  Astaroth — ■ 
was  the  goddess  of  the  Phcenicians,  and  many  of  the  mercenary 
soldiers  who  served  the  Phcjenicians  were  reputed  to  be  of  East 
African  origin,  there  seems  some- 
thing at  least  to  investigate, 
wherein  a  close  student  may 
possibly  draw  some  conclusive 
analogy.  Since  ofl'ering  this 
idea,    I    have    received    from    an  ^^'^'^ 

American  traveller  a  silver  ring,  presented  to  him  by  the  late 
King  Ja-Ja,  of  Opobo,  West  Africa,  representing,  as  he  was  told, 
a  shark's  jaw,  which  is  identical  in  shape  with  the  East  African 
armlet,  however,  displaying  no  distinctive  ornamentation  device, 
apart  from  a  little  rosette  or  flower  form  on  the  articulation  of 
the  jaw,  with  no  motive  other  than  decoration;  yet  it  is  African. 

With  other  tribes,  they  also  have  a  great  horror  of  insects 
and  all  creeping  things  ;  and  there  are  constantly  being  met 
many  small  vipers,  puff  adders,  and  a  few  pythons.  One  of 
the  porters  of  my  own  caravan  was  viciously  bitten  in  the 
foot   by  a  viper,  while  cutting  grass  on  the  plain. 

They  detest  rain  falling  upon  their  bodies,  and  use  three  or 


236 


SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 


four  broad  banana  leaves  spread  out  over  their  heads  as  arca- 
dian umbrellas. 

I  found  they  were  very  eager  to  possess  needles  and  reels  of 
bright-colored  cotton  thrcail,  which  I  had  liberall)-  provided  myself 
with.  They  had  never  seen  a  thimble,  and  when  I  showed  them 
those  I  had  brought  with  me,  the)'  exclaimed  almost  immediately, 
"Finger    hives,"   quick  to   recognize   an  analogy   between    the 

thimble  and  their  hives. 
Then  upon  discovering 
the  little  indentations, 
the)'  tiu'ned  and  said, 
"They  have  had  small- 
po.x."  Scissors  and  ra- 
zors and  claspd<;nives 
they  were  delighted  to 
receive,  and  hand- mir- 
rors. In  this  there  was 
quite  a  difference  be- 
tween tribes,  for  I  found 
some  who  considered 
the  possession  of  a  mir- 
ror as  an  ill  omen,  and 
woidd  retuse  to  receive 
jnsKii:,  ]]\K  iNii.i;i>KF.TKR.  them,  or  if  in  a  moment 

of  temptation  they  had  accepted  one,  lost  no  time  in  returning 
it  with   some  apt  excuse. 

I  was  taken  to  their  bonias  in  sickness  and  in  their  joy,  and 


ON    TO    TAVETA. 


237 


although  I  found  it  most  difficult  to  breathe  witliin  these  chim- 
neyless  inclosures,  with  a  fire  always  burning  in  the  centre  of 
the  room  and  their  cattle  stalled  in  one  part,  yet  I  never  refused 
to  enter,  in  order  to  show  them  that  I  did  not  spurn  becoming 
acquainted  with  their  habits  and  customs,  and  was  most  inter- 
ested in  everything  they  did. 


238 


SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 


CHAPTER  XI. 

ARCADIAN    TAVETA. 

LINTS  of  the  daily  existence  of  the  arcadian 
Wa-Taveta  reveal  many  charming  attri- 
butes of  character,  so  untrammelled,  so 
natural,  that  the  town  dwellers  of  other 
countries  can  but  sigh  over  their  own 
remo\al  from  a  free  pastoral  life, 
^.  apart  from  the  perpetual  worry  and 
"u  labor  of  money  getting,  or  even  bread 
nning.  Although  the  Taveta  dam- 
sels are  very  fine  in  figure,  their  faces  are  not  so  attractive 
as  some  of  the  highland  tribes.  I  came  very  near  being 
betrayed  into  supposing  that  certain  scars  upon  their  bodies 
were  the  result  of  tattooing,  but  after  close  inspection  found 
that  they  resulted  from  cupping,  which  they  resort  to  ior 
their  headaches  and  stomach  difficulties ;  in  fact,  no  matter 
what  malad)-  afflicts  them,  they  are  great  blood  letters,  and 
the  simple  methods  the)-  employ  I  adopted  with  great  ser- 
vice during  my  caravan  clinic.  After  excoriating  the  surface 
with  a  little  knife  or  a  piece  of  Hint  or  a  piece  of  wire,  they 
place  over  it  a  gazelle    horn,    with    the    pointed    end    cut    off, 


a; 
m 

O 


ARCADIAiN    TAVETA.  239 

when  they  apply  suction  by  holding  the  horn,  first  wet,  firmly 
against  the  part  to  be  cupped,  and  then  drawing  with  their 
lips  the  blood;  and  if  the  malady  is  serious,  they  make 
several  applications,  on  difterent  places,  drawing  as  much  as 
an  ounce  and  a  half  of  blood  from  the  sufferer.  Some 
Taveta  wives  file  their  teeth ;  however,  this  is  not  a  tribal 
custom  with  the  Wa-Taveta,  but  it  indicates  that  the  women 
who  do  so  ha v e 
been  married  from 
other  provinces,  and 
the  casual   observer   is  often 

WA-IEITA    SWEET    GRASS    NECKLACE. 

misled    in     supposing    it    to 

be  such.  They  also  often  color  their  teeth,  finger  nails, 
and  palms  of  their  hands  and  occasionally  their  faces 
with  a  red  stain  procured  from  the  dracaene  or  she- 
dragon  shrub ;  but  as  a  rule  the  pure-blood  Tavetas  keep 
their  teeth  beautifully  white  and  polished  with  tooth-sticks. 
These  tooth-sticks  are  cuttings  from  small  branches  of  a 
saponaceous  shrub,  and  are  al.so  universally  used  by  Arabs 
and  Swahali. 

Caravans  bring  up  froni  the  coast  nutmegs,  which  are 
disposed  of  to  the  natives  by  the  porters  as  charms  against 
disease,  and  taken  internally  to  allay  fever ;  they  form  one  of 
the  important  stock  medicines  every  ncpara,  or  headman, 
carries. 

Natives  eat  as  a  medicine,  as  a  condiment,  and  as  a 
stomachic  great   quantities   of   red  peppers,  which    grow    indi- 


240 


SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 


genously  and  abundantly.  They  are  fond  of  raw  plum 
tomatoes,  which  I  discovered  to  be  delicious,  and  identical  in 
flavor  to  the  cultivated  tomato,  perhaps  a  trifle  more  tart. 
Ears  of  corn  or  maize  are  spiked  about  their  fireplaces, 
which  consist  of  three  stones  canted  inward  so  as  to  touch 
at  the  top,  or  placed  upright,  under  which  the  fire  is  built, 
where  they  roast,  bake,  or  boil  the  maize,  which  is  most  lus- 
cious. They  also  eat  maize  raw,  and  so  did  we  before  too 
ripe,  when  it  is   palatable  and    nutritious,   full  of    sweet  milky 


VIEW    OF    KILIMANJARO. 

juice  which  slakes  the  thirst.  When  they  cannot  obtain  pure 
salt,  which  tliey  always  crave,  and  is  an  appreciated  article 
of  barter,  they  use  chumvi-stone,  which  has  a  brackish,  alka- 
line flavor,  and  answers  ver\^  well  as  a  substitute.  Salt  is 
found  in  great  abundance  in  some  of  these  highland  districts, 
according  to  good  authority.  Butter  they  churn  by  rolling 
across  their  boma  grounds  or  by  shaking  large  calabashes,  or 
oblong  wooden  dug-out  cylinders,  like  their  honey  boxes, 
filled    with    milk.       Rutter    made    of    cow's  milk  is  very  white 


ARCADIAN     TAVETA. 


241 


and  waxy  in  appearance,  strongly 
flavored  with  banana,  for  the, 
cattle  are  fed  during  the  rainy 
season  on  banana  leaves  and  the 
fruit  that  is  unfit  to  keep  or 
exceeds  the  native's  wants.  The  taste 
for  this  butter  I  fancy  must  be  acquired 
by  a  foreigner.  They  also  make  goat's 
butter,  called  gee,  oily,  strongly  fla\'ored, 
erous  as  the  goat  itself.  This  product  is 
in  the  cookery  of  native  gormands,  and 
caravans,  but  to  my  taste  it  was  decidedly 
Mutton  obtained  from  sheep  of  the  fat- 
is  very  strong,  as  is  also  that  of  the 
beef  is  more  or  less  tough.  The  chickens, 
enough  called  kii-kus,  are  very  tiny  and 
tives  frequently  sell  a  hen  that  is  laying, 
viso  that  the  eggs  laid  for  four  days,  or 
arrangement,  should  be  theirs.  It  is  a 
custom  to  string  these  chickens  upon  the 
by  the  cook's  mate,  with  pots  and  pans, 
pouch  is  kept  fastened  under  the  hen,  so 
on  the  march,  the  egg  is  preserved;  and 
make  sure  that  the  purchaser  will  not 
seller,  the  latter  sends  some  boy  of  the 
the  caravan  three  or  four  days,  in  order 
product  on  the  spot. 


milk 

and  odorif- 
used    largely 
adopted     b }' 
obnoxious, 
tailed    species 
goats.      The 
ij       strangely 
sinew)'.       Na- 
with    the   pro- 


acco 


rdinc 


to 


ver)'  quaint 
pole  carried 
and  a  cloth 
that  if  she  lays 
in  order  to 
defraud  the 
li  tribe  to  follow 
to     take     the 


r. 


242 


SULTAN    TO    SULTAN. 


Africans  all  have  a  particular  taste  and  decided  prefer- 
ence for  rotten  eggs.  It  has  been  often  cited  that  as  a 
reward  for  some  act  of  l<indness  on  the  part  of  white  men  to 
natives,  that  the  women,  under  the  guise  of  gratitude,  have 
brouo;ht  as  thank-offerinos,  e^ors  —  rotten  eCTgrs  !  Could  thev 
do  more  ?  Even  then*  gratitude  has  been  impugned  by 
almost    every    explorer    and      traveller,     simply    because     the 

natives'  expression  of  this  senti- 
ment is  at  variance  with 
the  white  man's  concep- 
tion of  what  it 
should  be.  They 
gave  what  they 
valued  most,  yet  this 
has  been  attributed 
to  a  mean  trait  of 
deception  in  their 
natures,  which  are 
judged  so  utterly  de- 
void of  gratitude.  The 
civilized  man  is,  after  all,  a 
thorough  Procrustean,  intol- 
erant ot  the  natural  diversities  of  human  nature,  unjust  and 
illiberal  once  he  departs  from  the  limitations  of  his  own 
studied  environments.  He  deliberately  makes  his  reason 
impervious  to  new  truths  by  a  heterogeneous  composite  of 
principles  and  his  own  accepted  theories. 


'lAVETA  PEOPLE. 


ARCADIAN     TAVETA. 


243 


Domesticated  and  wild  animals'  hides  they  tan  in  a  very 
admirable  and  sometimes  unique  manner.  They  put  aloe 
juice  upon  the  surface  after  having  shaved  off  the  hair,  and 
the  hides  are  hung  up  or  spread  out  to  dry  in  the  sun,  first 
carefully  rasping  from  the  inside  all 
the  fat  and  fibre.  To  obtain 
variety  sometimes  they  cut  or 
shave    the    skins,    leaving 


BEBE    BVVANA  S    CANVAS    VILLA. 


lozenge-shaped  squares   ^,.  ' 

as  decoration, 

which  are  re-   .yfeftvi  '' 

J' 
lieved  by  the  bare 

patches.  This 
style  is  much  affected  by  the  "  smart  "  cl-inoran.  They  also 
make  a  species  of  chamois  leather  from  goatskins,  which  they 
soften  by  friction  and  working  in  a  large  amount  of  grease. 
Domestic  and  wild  animals  yield  them  a  large  quantity  of  fat, 
or  as  they  call  it  iiiafiita,  which  is  valued  highly;  and,  with 
a  little  instruction,  they  could  soon  be  taught  to  make  soap, 
candles,  and  especially  ointments,  lor  they  much  need  medica- 
ment for  ulcers  and  wounds. 

The  cowhides  and  other  hides  are  used  for  making  loin- 
cloths, and  togas  for  men  and  women,  and  shields  and  little 
three-cornered  flaps  which  they  sling  across  the  dorsal  part 
ot  the  back,  with  no  apparent  purpose  if  not  to  brighten 
and  whet  the  edge  of  their  knives  upon,  e.xcepting  that  of 
decoration  ;    although     some    writers    assume    they    are    to    sit 


244  SUI.TAN     TO     SULTAN. 

upon,  —  a  thing  impossible  in  tlie  anatomical  structure  of  those 
whom  I  saw  wearing  the  article.  These  they  embellish  with 
little  rows  of  delicate  beads,  and  sometimes  metal  chains. 
The  lads  carry  wooden  spears,  artistically  modelled  after,  in 
fact  a  perfect  counterfeit  of,  the  fine  IMasai  metal  weapons, 
and  these  youths  are  always  posing  as  prospective  warriors. 
They  are  e.xperts  in  the  use  of  bows  and  arrows,  shoot  birds 
and  fish  and  at  a  mark  in  games  of  competition. 

Men,  women,  and  children  are  all  equally  good  swimmers, 
but  use  very  little  water  to  keep  their  persons  clean  ;  in 
truth,  in  some  East  African  regions,  they  suppose  the  white 
man's  ablutions  are  part  of  a  religious  preparation  before 
prayer.  They  substitute,  instead  of  water,  grease,  yet  with  all 
of  its  nutritive  and  cleansing  properties,  by  the  aggregation 
of  the  red  clay  they  universally  affect,  the  decomposition  ot 
the  oil,  never  prime  even  when  fresh,  renders  them  rather 
odorous,  when  stale  it  becomes  foul  and  rancid. 

Women  shave  their  heads  like  the  men,  with  the  e.xcep- 
tion  that  they  often  retain  a  small  cushion  or  clump  on  the 
crown,  from  which  they  allow  to  grow  one  or  two  long  strands, 
on  which  the)'  string  beads  ;  and  even  at  times  the)'  strand  in 
little  pigtails  the  entire  unshaven  clump  of  wool  with  beads. 
The  men  frequently  disport  head-dresses  made  ot  cows'  or 
calves'  stomachs,  stretched  into  shape  upon  their  heads  whilst 
warm  and  pliant,  soon  after  the  animal  has  been  slaughtered ; 
these  hang  down  over  their  shoulders  from  their  foreheads, 
completely    covering  their  heads,   and  are    variously  garnished 


ARCADIAN     TAVETA. 


H5 


with  beads  and  delicate  metal  fringes  and  dangling  diamond- 
shaped  or  round  glints  of  tin.  The  men  are  dandies  of  the 
most  effeminate  order. 

Most  of  the  bead  work  is  done  by  the  men,  and  it  is 
not  a  rare  sight  to  see  an  cl-nwran  moving  about  in  his 
own  or  a  friend's  boma  with  a  leather  scabbard  upon  which 
he  works  a  glass  bead  or 
namentation,  or  a  wo 
man's  loin-cloth, 
leather  bracelet 
belt,  armlets, 
anklets,  for 
some  one 
upon  whom 
he  may 
have 
smiled,  if 
not,  in  fact, 
for  his  lordship's 
self.  The  regula- 
tions ot  conven- 
tionality in  the  dif- 
ferent regions  seem  to 
be  so  set  that  various  a  quiet  siesta  in  my  palanquin. 

shapes  of  beads  lend  a  clannish  caste  to  many  ornaments  and 
personality  to  the  panic  of  each  tribe.  An  expert  looks  at  an 
approaching  native,  and    at  once    he    proclaims  the  newcomer 


246  SULTAN    TO     SULTAN. 

to  be  either  "Rombo";  "Taveta";  "  Kikoro " ;  "Kiboso"; 
"Masai";  or  "Kimangelia:  aye,  aye!"  He  seldom  fails  in 
the  speedy  classification  he  denotes. 

Apropos  to  this,  a  camp  story  was  current  to  the  effect 
that  Mandara,  the  Sultan  ot  Moschi,  detected  among  his 
women  some  Kiboso  beads,  the  country  of  his  dire  enemy, 
Sina,  and  forthwith  accused  them  of  infidelity,  and  of  having 
leagued  against  him,  betraying  his  future  plan  of  action  to 
his  eneni)'.  Forthwith  he  stripped  them  of  their  bawbles, 
ducked  them  in  the  stream,  daubed  their  heads  with  cow's 
dung,  and  threw  them  as  bait  for  prowling  animals  in  the 
forest,  proscribing  succor  to  them  on  penalty  of  similar 
treatment  to  the  violator  of   his  command. 

Certainl)-  the  Wa-Taveta  are  most  extravagant  if  not  even 
luxurious  in  their  love  of  decoration.  Noticeably  they,  as 
most  of  tlie  Chaga  tribes  do  also,  wear  great  heavy  pewter 
armlets  and  leglets  and  necklaces,  several  at  a  time  if  they 
are  fortunate  possessors  of  a  number.  All  the  women  wear 
a  beaded  belt  of  a  set  pattern,  and  those  classed  as  the 
wealthy  disport  quantities  of  various  colored  beaded  fringes 
as  a  cincture  and  fillets  from  which  hang  long  strands  of 
Chaga    metal    beads,     or    chains    of   copper,    iron,    and    brass. 

Polygamy  exists.  It  seems  almost  as  a  necessity  more 
than  licentiousness,  considering  the  environments.  A  man 
accumulates  more  land  or  more  cattle  than  his  first  wife 
can  attend  ;  he  purchases  another  wife,  and  so  on.  The  wives 
are    far    from    being   jealous    of    each    other ;     in     truth,    are 


ARCADIAN     TAVETA. 


24; 


delighted  to  welcome  a  new  wife,  and  make  great  prep- 
arations for  her.  Each  wife  has  her  own  hut,  if  indeed 
not  her  own  boma.  She  has  control  of  her  own  plantations, 
and  has  the  supreme  right  to  her  children.  Her  moral 
standard  is  exacth'  the  same  as  her  husband's.  A  woman 
is  only  declassed  when  she  holds  liaisons  with  porters 
in  a  caravan  or  with  the  enemy  of  her  husband.  Marriage 
is  b)'  purchase ;  the  wile  is  bought 
from  her  parents  b)'  cows,  land, 
spears,  etc.;  then  the  marriage  cere- 
mony is  consummated  by  capture. 
Her  marital  aspirant,  with  four  or 
five  ot  his  comrades,  pursues  her,  and 
after  capture  she  is  secluded  four  or  '^ 
five  days ;  meanwhile  the  husband's 
friends  have  been  permitted  certain 
privileges  before  the  husband  claims 
her.  This  is  simply  atrocious.  The  wedding  feast  is  held 
with  great  pomp  and  ceremony  to  every  one  but  the  bride, 
who  is  secluded  and  presumably  undergoing  a  preparatory 
schooling  in  the  hands   of  her  husband's  mother. 

The  established  wives  are  full  of  merriment,  and  inter- 
change many  pleasantries  with  their  lord  and  master,  feeling 
that  their  daily  toil  will  be  lightened. 

Frequently  the  Woman  of  Taveta  would  bring  a  man  or 
woman  to  me  and  say,  "This  is  my  brother  by  m}'  father, 
but  not    the  same    mother,"    and    "This    is    my   sister    by    the 


BEAD    AND    CHAIN 
EMBBOIDERED    LOIN-CLOTH. 


2A8 


SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 


cl-moran  my  mother  lived  with  before  she  married,"  or 
"This  is  my  brother  by  the  same  father  and  the  same 
mother." 

A  Wa-Taveta    elder,    or    nizia,  requested    me    to  visit    the 
infant  of   one  of   his  new  wives  and  take    my  dawa    saudiiki 


(medicine    box)   with    me.       I    went 
out    the    medicine,   knowing    that    if 
worse,    or    perchance    died,    I 
be    accused    of    black    art, 
possibly    arouse    the 
retaliation  which  would 
barrassment.     Within 
congregated    other 
the    sick    child. 


with   him   with- 
the   child  grew 
naturally  would 
tabooed,     and 
natix'es  to  some 
e.\pose  me  at  least  to  em- 
the    arena    of    the    boiua    were 
of  his  wives  than    the    mother    of 
The    infant   was    held    in    the 
arms    of    his     maternal 
grandmother.     A  throng 
s.NUFF-Box.  ^'*^^^  ^  °f  intimates  were  sitting 

and  standing  about,  who  ^^^^  had  flocked  there  as 
much  to  see  Bebe  Bwana,  as  out  of  sympathy  for  the  dis- 
tressed parents,  or  to  lend  assistance. 

The  little  one  was  a  victim  to  a  malignant  form  of  dys- 
entery, and  I  knew  from  the  pallor  of  his  visage  that  his 
doom  was  irrevocably  sealed.  Mercy  would  ha\e  dictated 
that  the  sufferer  should  be  comforted  in  every  way,  most 
certainly  not  violently  forced  to  take  nauseous  nostrums. 
The  parents  were  not  of  the  same  opinion,  for  they  deter- 
mined    without    delay    to    administer    another    dose    to     the 


ARCADIAN    TAVETA. 


249 


screaming,  struggling  cliild,  who  was  on  tlie  verge  of  con- 
vulsions in  his  wild  efforts  to  resist  his  tormentors.  Tears 
suffused  the  mother's  piteous  eyes ;  her  stoicism  evidently 
was  waning.  The  brave  warrior  father,  seeing  her  falter, 
came  to  the  fore,  addressed  a  few  peremptory  and  not  very 
refined    words    to    the    grandmother,  turned    to  me  and    .said, 


NAllVli    MAIL    CARRIERS    WITH    DESPATCHKS    lUUM    HUiME. 

"  Bebe    Bwana,   this  may  make  you  sick  ;    it  is    not  nice,  but 
it  must  be  done." 

Curiosity  prompted  me  to  protest  that  I  did  not  object, 
for  I  was  in  a  quandary  to  know  what  he  proposed  to  do. 
The  father  took  from  his  wife's  hands  a  small  gourd  dish, 
stepped  to  the  fire,  filled  his  hands  with  the  white  ashes 
and     mixed     with     a    little    water,    thoroughly     cleansed    the 


250  SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 

vessel,  then  smeared  honey  on  Its  edge,  before  putting 
into  it  the  medicinal  decoction,  wliich  emitted  very  strong 
herbaceous  fumes ;  lie  held  this  to  the  child's  lips  to  no 
purpose  ;  despite  the  honey  bait,  the  little  one  kicked  and 
struggled.  However,  the  relentless  father  concluded  that 
the  child  must  be  overcome ;  the  time  for  coaxingf  had 
passed.  At  a  glance  from  him,  the  grandmother  grappled 
the  child  and  crushed  him,  plunging  and  yelling.  Mat  upon  her 
lap;  two  of  the  lookers-on  clutched  the  little  martyr's  feet 
and  hands,  and  the  grandmother  pinched  his  nose  between 
the  thumb  and  forefinger.  I  confess  experiencing  alarm 
lest  I  should,  by  my  presence,  be  aiding  and  abetting  a 
murder.  The  dusky  father  held  the  gourd  to  the  self- 
sacrificing  grandmother's  lips.  She  took,  with  real  abnega- 
tion, a  large  mouthful;  it  bulged  her  cheeks  out.  Ha!  there 
was  to  be  some  vicarious  cure.  No,  no.  The  infant  scion 
of  this  African  house  of  distinction  must  take  his  own  physic. 
Soon  the  grandmother,  without  relaxing  her  grip  of  the 
child's  nose,  in  order  to  force  open  his  mouth,  bent  over 
him,  and  after  fixing  her  lips  against  his,  as  he  gasped  for 
breath,  scjuirted  into  his  mouth,  out  of  her  own,  the  noxious 
dose. 

Of  all  medicinal  processes,  antl  I  have  seen  some  strange 
ones,  1  never  witnessed  any  to  equal  this  in  novelt\-  and 
expedienc)',  for  the  spluttering  youngster  had  to  swallow 
the   dose  or  be    suflbcated    on    the    instant. 

The     deed    done,    the    panting    child    subsided;    then     fell 


ARCADIAN     TAVETA. 


251 


into  a  sleep  of  happy  unconsciousness.  No  one  seemed 
touclied,  even  witli  pity.  One  must  naturally  deduce  that 
there  is  no  puerile  nonsense  among  African  families  of 
good    standing. 

Possibly  the  sequel  to  this  may  be  of  interest.  The 
child  died. 

Childhood's  limit  is  very  brief  with  the  African  children  ; 
in  good  truth,   it  seemed    to  me    there  were    no  real    children 


1.1  I.^Al  \t 


A    FIRE    DCRIMG    A    COl-li    H.W. 


after  six  or  eight  years  of  age.  That  is,  they  engaged  in  the 
pursuits  of,  and  mingled  freely  with,  the  adults,  in  so  far  as 
their  physical  strength  and  adolescence  would  admit.  They 
seemed  also  to  be  perfectly  acquainted  with  the  existent  rela- 
tionships held  by  their  seniors,  even  to  the  extent  of  passing 


252 


SULTAN     TO    SULTAN. 


comments  upon  certain  customs,  and  avowing  their  future 
intentions  to  follow  or  abandon  a  similar  course  when  they 
should  have  become  cl-moran  (young  man)  or  en-ditto  (a 
marriageable  young  woman).  This  fact  comes  from  the 
mediocre  limitations  of  the  native  adult  mind,  hence  the 
liiiJ":.'.-'  children's  accession  to  the  same  is  compar- 
atively rapid,  although  I  must  disclaim 
that  it    evinces  precocity. 

I     heard    a   boy    of    about     six 
say  to  a  little  girl    no    more   than 
five    years    of    age    as    he    strode 
about,  facing  her,  while  he    flour- 
ished   his    wooden    spear,    full    of 
pride    and     impetuosity:     "When 
1     shall     be    cl-inoran     and     thou 
cti-ditto,   I    shall  win  and  wear   the 
bearded  collar,  and   thou  wilt  be   my 
w  ife,    aye !       Thou     shall    have     more 
BEARDED  MASAI  warrior's       bcads     than    all     of     Endella's     wives 

COLLAR,    WON    WHEN    TWELVE  1  I         TVT 

FOES  HAVE  BEEN  KILLED.  put  together.  I  liavc  spoken!  Now 
walk  with  me  and  show  to  m)'  fellows  how  a  sultana 
should  look."  And  the  two  midgets,  with  all  the  pom- 
posity imaginable,  made  a  circle  round  about  the  young 
people  gathered  in  the  market  place,  to  become  the 
object  of  merriment  and  joke,  but  good-naturedly  they 
gesticulated  and  returned  the  pleasantries  of  the  different 
groups,  and  seemingly  had  their  own  little  fun  and  glory 
by    thus    emphasizing    their    rosy    prospects. 


ARCADIAN     TAVETA.  253 

This  bearded  collar  is  worn  by  the  Masai  warrior  who 
has  twelve  times  "  plunged  to  the  heart  of  twelve  foes  his 
spear."  Hence  the  ambitious,  bellicose  youngster  proffered 
to  his  young  Dulcinea  no  mean  outlook,  if  his  boast  met 
with    realization. 

Throughout  the  section  of  East  Africa  I  journeyed,  I 
was  in  a  constant  state  of  wonderment  over  the  happy, 
merry  dispositions  of  the  children,  full  of  song  and  sport, 
like  arboreal  sprites.  The  region  can  well  be  called,  as  is 
Japan,  the  Paradise  of  Children. 
Archery  clubs  are  formed  among  the 
youngsters  and  under  the  command  of 
a  leader,  selected,  or  who  asserts  himself, 
because  of  his  skill.  They  practise  .shoot-  '^laid  g  urd. 
ing  at  a  mark,  and  vie  with  one  another  with  a  pardonable 
zest.  They  participate  in  games  of  running,  become  com- 
petitors in  swimming,  diving,  and  dancing.  In  imitation 
of  adult  blacksmiths,  they  make  wooden  spears,  the  precise 
counterfeits  of  the  metal  ones.  They  are  venders  of  all 
sorts  of  produce  at  the  markets,  especially  of  chickens 
and  eggs. 

Soon  as  they  attain  an  age  and  have  strength  to  en- 
dure journeys,  they  are  sent  as  couriers,  and,  when  expe- 
rienced, as  guides.  Their  early  exi.stence  is  spent  in  a  per- 
petual sort  of  rudimentary  kindergarten  and  their  education 
is  acquired  by  observation,  imitation,  and  object  lessons. 
Like    all     aborigines,     and     animals,     left    to    their    own     re- 


254  SULTAN     TO    SULTAN. 

sources,  they  are  constantly  on  the  alert,  more  or  less 
wary,  even  to  a  degree  of  suspicion.  In  their  primitive 
condition  they  affect  the  mannerisms,  adopt  the  customs, 
and  aspire  to  the  estate  ot  their  seniors,  as  have  and 
do    the  children  of  all  nations. 

The  fact  of  the  natives'  simplicity,  despite  their  detract- 
ors, fills  me  with  an  abiding  hope  that  if  at  the  outset  these 
particular,  amiable,  and  amenable  tribes  of  East  Africa  have 
sagacious,  peaceful,  fair  treatment,  and  their  natures  are  en- 
^  larged  and  they  are  led  at  a  gradual  pace  to  accept  the 
ways  of  civilization,  there  is  much  to  hope  for  in  their 
intellectual  unfoldment.  Every  move,  every  gesture,  every 
word,  is  scrutinized  by  these  natives,  and  this  habit  of  con- 
centration imparts  a  contemplative  seriousness  which  char- 
acterizes the  expression  of  their  eyes.  Strange,  too,  a 
traveller  among  them  soon  takes  on  the  same  e.xpression, 
in  the  endeavor  to  fully  interpret  the  natives'  eloquent 
sign  language,  with  which  they  vivify  and  supplement 
their  circumscribed  vocal  utterances.  With  a  vocab- 
ulary of  two  hundretl  and  fifty  Swahali  words  it  has  been 
affirmed  that  an  observing  person  could  travel,  with  a 
dialect  interpreter,  all  over  Africa.  As  Emerson  has  truly 
written  :  — 

"The  eyes  of  men  converse  as  much  as  their  tongues, 
with  the  advantage  that  the  ocular  dialect  needs  no  dic- 
ti<)nar\',   but  is   understood  all  the  world  over." 

WAKKIUK'.S 

spiiAK.  Several  ostriches  belonging   to  the  officer  of  the  English 


z 

u 


D 

o 


X 
'J 


ARCADIAN     TA\-ETA.  255 

post  flourished  at  Taveta,  to  the  natives'  great  annoyance. 
Apparently  the  natives  never  became  used  to  them,  although 
they  saw  them  dozens  of  times  during  the  day,  as  they 
passed  through  the  bonia  bent  on  work 
or  pleasure.  If  the  gawky  birds  flapped 
their  wings  or  made  a  rush,  they  would 
scatter,  yelling,  and  striving  to  make  a 
speedy  exit,  in  clamorous  terror.  These 
birds    with     the    iamous     stomachs    would 

CATHERINE    WHEEL 

swallow  with  impunity  cartridges,  old  double  trass  ear-ring. 
shoes,  and  all  sorts  of  rubbish  tendered  them.  An  ostrich 
breeding  farm  could  be  advantageously  maintained  there- 
abouts, and  stocked  from  the  wild  birds  that  haunt  the 
countr)'  in  great  flocks.  We  encountered  a  number  whilst 
on  the  march. 

They  dry  fish  and  jerk  beef,  which  they  cure  by  hanging 
in  their  huts,  e.xposed  freely  to  the  smoke  of  their  fires. 
Everything  they  possess,  even  their  bodies  and  hair,  smell 
strongly  of  smoke. 

An  elder  of  imexcelled  intelligence  and  standing  among 
his  tribe  told  me  that  the  fires  were  never  allowed  to  go  out; 
that  is,  in  the  village  ;  a  single  family  fire  might  become  ex- 
tinct, but  this  could  be  resupplied  or  reignited  by  getting  a 
blazing  fagot  from  some  friend's  fire.  But  in  the  history  of  the 
tribe,  as  far  as  he  knew,  the)'  had  always  vigilantly  preserved 
the  fire,  as  doubtless  did  their  prehistoric  ancestors.  On  a 
march  or  when  hunting  or  visiting  from  tribe  to  tribe,  they  carry 


^56 


SULTAN     TO     SUl.TAN. 


with  them  fire-sticks,  which  they  deftly  use  by  twirling  rapidly 
in  the  hollow  of  a  bit  of  hard  wood  in  which  is  placed  dried 
fibre  until  the  friction.  They  also  are  acquainted  with  the 
use  of  flint,  and  by  scraping  the  fibre  from  the  viwliala  or 
other  fibrous  trees  they  make  a  pulp  which  is  quite  as  in- 
flammable as  tow. 

^^ 1 


7>-^X. 


»■>>. 


* 


,,   ,S. 


m 


tS*" 


A     FUTURE     WARRUlR. 

The  children  are  very  skillul  in  the  use  of  bows  and 
arrows,  and  when  I  presented  them  with  fish-hooks  and 
lines,  to  please  me  they  would  use  them  at  the  end  of  a 
reed  pole ;  but  no  sooner  was  m)-  back  turned  than  they 
would  resume  their  old  practice  of  obtaining  fish  by  shoot- 
ing them  with  wooden  arrows  in  the  water,  or  by  using 
weirs. 


ARCADIAN     TAVETA.  257 

Taveta's  grand  forest  as  well  as  its  mountain,  and  its 
reatl)'  access  to  the  plain,  or  hara,  give  the  Wa-Taveta  ample 
security  from  invaders  and  scope  for  their  plantations  and 
orass  land  for  fodder  for  their  stall-fed  cattle,  making  theirs 
almost  an  independent  province  ;  and  altliough  it  is  said  they 
are  of  Masai  origin,  they  are  so  gentle,  pastoral,  and  peace- 
loving  I  could  but  doubt  the  supposition,  always  going  back 
to  the  fact  that  their  environment  showed  a  long  line  ot  an- 
tecedents of  like  ilk.  During  the  period  of  my  sojourn  in 
East  Africa  there  was  considerable  friction  between  the  young 
dandies,  or  cl-inoraii,  and  the  elders,  in  Taveta,  on  the  matter 
of  lumgo,  or  tribute  exacted  trom  caravans  passing  through 
their  country.  This  has  been  abolished  by  the  English  gov- 
ernment throughout  in  their  protectorate,  also  by  the  Germans 
in  theirs,  but  it  is  evaded  in  an  ingenious  manner  by  the 
natives,  -who  impress  the  newcomer  with  the  Idea  that 
they  will  receive  certain  advantages  and  suret}'  from  moles- 
tations in  giving  them  presents ;  and  in  former  days  the 
elders  received  this  toll,  and  made  distribution  as  it  suited 
them.  Now  the  young  men  personall)'  desire  to  receive 
this  tribute,  whenever  they  are  able  to  e.xact  it,  and  they  are 
continually  holding  palavers  between  themselves  to  determine 
what  effectual  course  to  pursue.  However,  this  exaction 
must  be  short-lived ;  the  government  will  doubtless  succeed 
in  totally  abolishing  it  as  an  imposition  and  an  indignity. 
However,  I  did  not  pay  Iioiigo  to  any  tribe  during  m)' 
safari.     When  approached  respecting  this,   I   said,  "  I  am  jour 


258  SUl.TAN     TO     SUl.TAN. 

guest ;  I  am  as  a  white  queen  coming  to  you.  Would  you 
ask  lioneo  of  the  sultan  of  such  and  such  a  tribe  should  he 
visit  you?"  and  it  successfully  relieved  me  from  further  parley 
or  exaction. 

They  are  very  tenacious  as  to  the  qLiality  of  the  cloths 
the)-  receive ;  and  although  they  are  verj'  much  attracted  by 
bright  colors,  you  will  see  them  take  a  piece  ot  cloth  and 
hold  it  up  to  the  light,  to  test  its  texture,  and  if  it  is  too 
thin  they  do  not  want  it ;  and  the  old  habit  of  forcing  upon 
the  native  any  trash  as  good  enough  for  the  negro,  at  least 
in   East  Africa,  does  not  at  present  answer. 

They  are  kind  to  their  children  ;  however,  I  found  no 
children  in  act  or  intention  in  any  tribe  I  \isited  in  East  Africa, 
after  the  age  of  six  ;  they  were  little  men  and  little  women, 
who,  of  their  own  accord,  daily  trudged  to  the  noonday  market 
with  a  load  upon  their  heads,  happy  and  delighted  to  be  in 
the  swim  with  their  parents ;  and  the  only  child  I  heard  cry 
during  my  expedition,  who  was  not  an  ill  bab)',  was  a  little 
one  who  was  restrained  from  going  to  market,  and  he 
howled,  and  kicked,  and  yelled  in  such  a  fashion,  alarmed,  1 
paused  to  inquire  the  cause  of  his  uproarious  distress. 

The  utter  freedom  with  which  the  men  and  women  mix 
together,  and  the  homely  intercourse  between  parents  and 
children,  reveal  a  trait  of  their  social  life  that  is  most  eenial 
and  certainly  not  looked  for.  Possibly  this  leads  to  a  certain 
amount  ot  familiarit)'  with  matters  and  things  in  ci\'ilization 
removed    from    the    knowledge    of    the    youth    and    the     maid; 


ARCADIAN     TAVETA. 


259 


but  then  one  must  admit  that  natives  are  naturals,  and  that 
ignorance  with  them  concerning  natural  things  is  as  much  of 
a  crime  as  innocence  is  a  virtue  in  civilization.  Although 
they  are  not  purists  by  any  manner  of  means,  let  me  sa)'  I 
savi^  in  Taveta  no  manifestation  of  licentiousness,  excepting 
the  matter  of  their  dances.  In  talking  with  them  as  to  the 
English  occupancy  in  their  country  and  the  benefits  to 
accrue  therefrom,  they  would  answer  rather  dubiously,  "  Aie, 
aie  ;  yoh,  yoh,"  and  I  fain  discovered  a  tinge  of  regret,  and 
in  their  hearts  I  believe  they  would  be  content  to  go  on  in 
their  happy,  pastoral  wa)',  without  bothering  their  brains 
about  education,  government,  and  all  the  confusing  principles 
of  civilization.  They  live  to  enjoy,  and  enjoy  to  live,  and 
are  as  idyllic  in  their  native  waj-s  as  any  people  I  ever 
encountered. 


26o 


SULTAN    TO    SULTAN. 


CHAPTER  XII. 

CIRCUMNAVIGATION    OF    LAKE    CHALA. 

^jpt.  HILST  thti  majority  of  my 
JjvM-  caravan  were  busy  stringing 
barter  beads  for  poslio  at  Ta- 
veta,  I  sought  the  opportunity 
ot  starting"  on  a  little  tour.  .Ac- 
companied by  the  resident  Eng- 
ih  officer,  Mr.  Anstruther,  but  at 
y  own  expense  exclusively,  with 
my  own  selected  corps  of  fifty  porters, 
solely  as  m\'  own  prixate  expedition, 
the  last  ot  .\pril,  1S91,  I  made  my  first  visit  to  the  crater 
Lake  Chala,  and  descended  to  the  water's  edge.  Under 
the  .same  circumstances,  en  route  to  Kimangelia,  a  fortnight 
later,  with  my  entire  caravan,  we  returned,  and  on  May  g, 
1891,  circumna\igatcd  this  lake.  Through  the  courtesy  of 
the  Germans,  Mr.  .\.  was  the  lortimate  possessor  ot  two 
sections  of  a  copper  pontoon,  which  were  the  original  prop- 
erty ot  Count  Teleke,  and  abandoned  by  him  as  cumbersome 
iinpcclhiicnla.       These  were  conveyed  between  ten  and  twelve 


CIRCUiMNAVKiATION    OK    LAKE    CHALA. 


261 


miles  on    the    shoulders    of    ni)-     porters,     the     distance     from 
Taveta    to    Lake    Chala,    in    order    to    make  the  venture. 

I   feel   prompted  to  offer  an    explicit    statement   of   certain 
facts,  to  exonerate   Mr.   Anstruther  from  criticism  of  having-  in 


l.AKK    (JHALA. 


SOU'I  HWKSTF.RN    VIEW. 


an)'  way  violated  the  covenants  of  his  legal  and  moral  f)bli- 
gations  imder  his  iron-clad  official  commission  with  the  Ibea 
Compan) . 

Finally,   it  will  be  well  to   state   that    absolutely    in    no    in- 
stance was  m\'  rule    and    order    of   command    relinquished    to 


262  SULTAN    TO    SULTAN. 

any  temporary  guest  or  friendly  escort  iluring  m\'  entire  ex- 
pedition, nor  in  any  way  have  I  to  acknowledge  the  success- 
ful carrying  forward  or  completion  of  my  expedition  to  the 
auspices  or  patronage  of  an\'  European  resident  in  East 
Africa,  however  grateful  I  may  be  for  certain  courtesies.  At 
this  period  I  owe  to  Dr.  Baxter,  formerly  of  Moschi,  hearty 
thanks  for  surgical  care  given  to  my  eye,  and  tor  the  medical 
supervision  he  bestowed  upon  the  unfortunate  fever-stricken 
invalid  of  the  caravan.  Every  time  a  white  man  chanced  to  be 
with  us,  my  porters  were  discontented  and  at  times  positively 
sullen  ;  they  seemed  somewhat  apprehensive  lest  the  white 
men  might  be  installed  in  my  place  as  leader.  Like  children 
they  would  tlock  about  me  to  express  their  delight  over  the 
departure  of  a  guest.  This  spirit  of  displeasure  was  likewi.se 
evinced  by  many  natives,  who  seemed  to  have  a  latent  sus- 
picion that  the  white  man  would  make  some  demands  upon 
them,  or  might  be  desirous  of  subjugating  them,  or  fighting 
with  them.  .So  it  was  proved  disadvantageous  for  me  to 
entertain  or  to  be  joined,  when  on  the  march,  b;,'  white  men, 
no  matter   who   they  might  be. 

Leaving  Taveta  during  a  great  downpour  about  three  r.  m., 
the  ten  or  twelve  miles'  march  was  a  great  hardship  to  all 
of  the  men,  who  were  more  or  less  demoralized  and  out  of 
condition  in  consequence  of  the  long  encampment.  Night 
overtook  those  who  were  in  tlie  rear,  and  after  delays  and 
tumbles  into  animal  pits,  tliose  belated  straggled  in  camp  at 
all  hours  until  after  davlight.      Wood  for  fuel  was    scarce,    as 


CTRri'MNAVICATION    OF    LAKE    CHAI.A.  263 

there  was  nothing  growing  immediately  about  the  ston)'  place 
of  our  encampment,  close  beside  the  rim  of  the  lake,  but 
thorn-bushes,  and  the  rain  had  soaked  everything.  It  was  a 
night  of  discomfort  ami  anxiety,  for  we  were  in  the  immediate 
haunts  ot  wild  animals  and  the  so-called  fierce   Rombos. 

The  gradual  ascent  from  Taveta  to  the  rim  of  th(-  crater 
lake  on  the  western  side  is  only  a  little  above  the  level  of 
the  plain,  and  on  the  southwestern  end  there  are  abrupt 
peaks  two  himdred  to  four  hundred  feet  high ;  the  level  of 
the  water,  as  shown  by  our  aneroid,  attained  a  level  of  one 
hundred  and  ninety-five  feet  below  the  encampment,  and 
about  tour  hundred  and  forty-seven  feet  above  Taveta.  And 
the  temperature  of  the  water  near  the  surface  was  only  one 
and  one  half  degrees  lower  than  the  atmosphere  registration. 
The  lake  is  near  the  western  side  of  the  stream  Mfuro,  or, 
in  the  Masai  lano^uagfe,  Naromosha,  but  accordin"'  to  some 
travellers  misnamed  the  Lumi.  We  find  Lake  Chala  north 
ol  Taveta  on  the  northeastern  side  oi  Kilimanjaro,  about 
3'-"'  22'  south  latitude,  37°  17'  east  longitude,  over  three 
thousand  feet  abo\-e  the  sea  level. 

The  crater's  crest  rises  above  the  surface  of  the  lake 
eight  hundred  feet  at  its  highest  point,  and  at  its  lowest  two 
hundred  and  fifty  feet.  The  lake,  roughly  estimated,  is  two 
and  one  half  miles  across  at  its  widest  point,  and  from  si.x 
and  a  halt  to  eight  miles  in  circumference.  It  is  environed 
by  massive  blocks  ot  perpendicular  rough  rocks,  which  e.xtend 
like  a  subterranean  wall  far  beneath   the    level    of   the    water. 


264  SUI.TAN    TO    SULTAX. 

Interminable  vines  and  thickl\-  gnnvn  forest  trees  present  a 
forbidding  appearance  on   all   sides. 

The  late  missionar\'  New  \vas  the  first  white  person  to  give 
an  account  of  this  lake  and  ot  his  difficult  descent  to  the 
water's  edge  in  1S71.  Ho\ve\'er,  the  explorer  Thompson 
writes  of  this  lake  with  reference  to  its  inaccessibility:  "1 
went  all  around  it;  and  although  I  am  not  deficient  in  enter- 
prise or  nerve,  I  saw  no  place  that  I  dared  descend,  not  even 
if  I    could   ha\'e  swung  trom  creeper  to  creeper  like  a  monkey." 

.Standing  on  the  crest  of  the  rim  of  this  crater,  looking 
down  upon  tlie  cr\stal  water  which  was  cupped  therein,  at 
first  1  \vas  well  impressed  with  the  impossibility  of  descending 
to  the  water's  edge,  unless  some  means  could  be  devised  as 
a  substitute  for  fl\  ing.  Nevertheless,  on  the  assurance  of  Mr. 
A.  of  Ta\'eta,  who  had  some  months  pre\-iously  descended  to 
the  lake  edge,  nothing  tlaunted,  1  determined  to  make  the 
venture.  There  was  a  Aveirtl  attractiveness  overhanging  tliis 
place  that  overawetl  even  the  natives.  All  accounts  I  could 
glean  about  it  were  so  vague  that  I  wanted  to  taste  ot  the 
forbitlden  irult  m\sell.  With  an  ach'ance  guard  of  onh"  two 
men,  alone,  for  Mr.  A.  remained  at  the  top  to  direct  the 
pontoon  bearers,  I  fouml  myself  attempting  to  j)enetrate 
through  a  girdle  of  primexal  forest  trees,  tossed,  as  it  were, 
b\'  some  \-olcanic  action  against  the  rock  base,  and  seemingly 
as  impenetrable  as  any  stockade.  With  bill-hooks  and  knixcs 
they  cleared  a  slight  opening  through  which  I  managed  to 
squeeze,   on   emerging  to  fintl   mjself    standing   on   a   bowlder, 


CIKCl'MXAXK.  \IIoN    I  )F    LAKE    CHALA. 


265 


\vhicli  was  balancetl  upon  another  bowlder,  antl  ever)'  mo- 
ment's tarriance  seemed  U>  imperil  m\'  ecjuilibrium ;  antl  as  I 
dared  to  Aentiire  on  other  uncertain  surlaces  which  presented 
a   footin;^-,   it   n'ljuired   cat-like  ag'ilit\"  to  crawl    or    slide    down, 


LAKE    CHALA.       NORTHF.ASTF.RN    VIEW. 


sometimes  landing'  in  a  bed  of  lea\'es,  which  must  have  been 
the  accumulations  of  centuries,  and  into  which  I  lre(}uentl\' 
.sank  up  to  m)-  armpits,  and  had  to  be  hauled  out  b\'  niain 
force  by  m\'  men;  and  then  bv  clinoim''  and  clutching  to  the 
branches  of  overhanging  trees,   after  great  eftort    and    consid- 


266  SULTAN    TO    SULTAN. 

erable  peril,  succeeded  in  laboriously  attainintr  some  odier 
foothold,  step  by  step  advancing,  again  and  again  to  be 
opposed  by  gigantic  trunks  of  trees,  which,  lightning-smitten, 
had  fallen  as  a  barricade,  or  through  some  potent  eruptive 
force  had  been  uprooted  and  turned  themselves  top  down  in 
solemn  humiliation.  .Anon,  a  bowlder,  loosened  from  its  scant 
earth)-  holdings,  would  come  crashing  matlly  down  from  the 
top  and  shiver  into  fragments  the  white  skeletons  of  these 
trees.  The  weirdness  of  the  scene  was  intensified  by  the 
strange  whirring  of  birds  frightened  unceremoniously  from 
their  hitherto  undesecrated  homes,  and  the  whisking  ot  myr- 
iads of  monkeys  as  the)'  leaped  from  branch  to  branch  with- 
out emitting  a  chatter  in  their  fright.  A  whistling  eagle  beat 
the  air  with  its  wings  directly  over  my  head,  scattering  its 
feathers  like  storm-flawn  flowers  in  its  wild  flight,  and  white- 
hooded  owls  peered  out  from  sequestered  nooks  and  twoo- 
hooed  in  solemn  amazement.  The  e.vtreme  sheerness  of  the 
rocks  made  the  descent  hazardous,  tortuous,  and  very  tedious. 
Constantly  obliged  to  turn  back  on  my  path,  searching  and 
groping,  creeping  on  my  hands  and  knees  through  tangles  ot 
interwoven  tissues  of  rubber-vines,  and  so  was  compelled  to 
cautiousl)-  feel  with  m\-  feet,  and  be  content  with  the  greatest 
slowness.  The  danger  attending  e\-er)-  movement  and  the 
spectral  weirdness  of  the  place  inspired  me  and  even  affected 
my  men  with  awe.  M)'  advance  guard  woidtl  sometimes 
whisper  words  of  warning,  afraid  to  utter  a  sound,  and  e.x- 
tended  his  hand  (jr  arm  to  prevent  my  plunging  headlong  to 


CIRCUMNAVIGATION    OF    LAKE    CHALA.  267 

thi!  bottom.  All  this  filled  me  with  an  excitement  and  imparted 
fresh  courage,  anci  re-enforced  my  determination  to  overcome 
the  difficulties  of  the  uncann\-  spot,  cost  what  it  might,  so 
long  as  1  shoukl  be  able  to  climb,  or  crawl,  or  slide,  or  step, 
or  simply  let  myself  go  with  utter  blindness,  and  risk  the 
incumbent  results;  for  the  goal  bewitched  me  in  anticipation. 
Through  gaps  in  the  massed  trees,  through  which 
the  sun  could  scarcely  filter,  the  arboreal  darkness  was 
pierced  b}-  a  radiant  gleam  of  light,  and  the  flashing  lake 
greeted  my  e.xpectant  eyes.  There  arose  a  general  shout 
from  the  men,  "Chala!"  "  Chala  !  "  and  behold!  I  found  my- 
self rewarded  by  being  upon  a  rugged,  rough  tangle  of 
prostrate  trees  and  wild  tumble  of  white  and  gray  rocks, 
whilst  the  limpid,  restless  waters  were  laughing  and  dashing 
themselves  into  a  jubilant  foam  at  my  feet.  The  scene  was 
one  of  which  I  became  enamoured.  It  was  truly  overcast 
with  a  sublime  sense  of  a  holy  sanctuary.  Losing  myself  in 
the  spectacle,  I  forgot  that  Mr.  A.  and  porters,  with  the  two 
sections  of  pontoons  we  had  taken  the  precaution  to  bring, 
were  waiting  eagerly  for  me  to  give  the  signal  agreed  upon 
when  once  I  should  be  safe  at  the  bottom  on  the  lake 
shore.  After  a  moment's  revery,  recovering  myself,  I 
sounded  the  whistle.  Then  the  deafening  crash  and  )ell  and 
rush  commenced,  as  the  porters  struggled  valorously  with 
their  precious  burden  down  the  narrow,  serpentine,  rugged 
figment  of  a  path,  which  we  in  the  van  had  essayed  to 
make. 


268  SULTAN    TO    SUI.TAN. 

The  marvellous  ingenuity  whh  which  these  porters  manoeu- 
vred their  metal  loads,  and  the  stoical  way,  when  they  would 
slip  and  their  burden  fall  upon  their  shoulders,  and  cruelly 
dig  out  chunks  of  flesh,  the  blood  trickling  from  their  wounds, 
they  would  struggle  to  their  feet  and  go  on  without  com- 
plaint, called  forth  from  their  comrades  screams  of  applause, 
whilst  the  leaders  sung  a  wild,  weird  strain  full  of  rhythm,  just 
as  we  find  men  who  are  moving  heavy  loads  always  instinc- 
tively do  in  order  to  keep  time  with  each  other's  movements. 

Finally  the  two  copper  sections  of  the  pontoon  were  in 
the  water.  The)'  were  immediatel)'  e.xamined  to  see  if  there 
had  been  any  puncture  made  through  the  thin  metal  sides 
in  their  difficult  transit.  They  were  scarcely  large  enough, 
when  lashed  together  and  covered  with  a  vizvhala  door, 
which  had  been  converted  into  a  platform,  to  hold 
m\self  and  men,  and  presented  to  the  onlooker  a  most  un- 
safe maritime  structure.  The  moment  came  to  embark,  and 
on  demanding,  "Where  are  the  men  who  are  to  accompany 
us?"  not  one  would  respond  ior  the  first  excursion;  subse- 
quently Joseie  and  a  headman  were  perfectl)'  willing  if  not  eager 
to  distinguish  themselves  by  going.  Pre.sently  they  murmured 
amonp-  themselves,  "  No,  no ;  we  will  not  eo  on  Devil's 
water.  Just  see  the  crocodiles,  and  hear  the  monkeys,  and 
look  at  the  breath  of  the  devil.  luslialla  (God  willing),  we 
will  remain  with  our  feet  under  us  on  shore,"  as  they 
pointeLl  to  the  water  which  was  in  some  considerable  com- 
motion,  revealing  here  and  there  its  amphibious  denizens. 


CIRCUMNAVIGAriON    OF    LAKE    CHAI.A.  269 

After  going  through  tlie  usual  process  ot  calling  them 
goats,  and  cowards,  and  jungle-men,  m\'  interpreter,  [osele, 
who  was  somewhat  of  a  darede\il,  and  ready  for  an  adven- 
ture, stepped  torwanl,  saluted  me,  antl  saitl  (juite  gallantly, 
"  Bebe  Bwana,  at  your  service."  So  Mr.  A.,  Josefe,  and 
myself,  with  our  giuis  and  photographic  instruments,  em- 
barked upon  the  bobbing  pontoon  with  two  long  improviseil 
paddles.  We  pushed  carefully  out  from  the  shore,  amid  the 
shouts  ot  the  bewildered  porters,  who  eagerly  watched  the 
performance,  fully  persuaded  in  their  own  minds  that  it  must 
end  disastrously,  having  taken  the  precaution  to  attach  a 
haw.ser  several  hundred  feet  in  length  to  the  uncouth  craft 
in  case  of  accident.  The  crocodiles  were  very  curious,  not 
knowing  w-hat  to  make  o(  the  invasion  of  their  haunt,  and 
came  in  close  proximity  to  our  uderpinnings,  as  with  one 
paddle  I  man(cuvreil  to  guide  the  craft  and  Josefe  awkwardly 
propelled  with  the  other,  whilst  my  guest  kept  a  sharp  look- 
out for  the  obtrusive  aquatic  creatures.  After  moving  the 
lencrth  of  the  hawser,  we  found  the  craft  was  manageable,  and 
cut  loose,   to  the   horror  ol   the  men  grouped  on   the  rocks. 

At  ever)-  turn  there  arose  from  the  midst  of  the  crater 
forest  great  flocks  of  birds,  which  had  all  the  appearance  of 
being  ducks,  but  which  have  since  been  named  by  the  late 
Mr.  Bates,  Plialacrocorax  Africauus  and  Phalacrocorax  carho, 
a  species  of  cormorant  but  edible.  They  cawed  and  screamed 
and  whirred  about,  making  a  great  commotion,  and,  u[)on  our 
ajDproach,  would    dive     into    the    water,  when     the    crocodiles 


270  SULTAN    TO    SULTAN. 

would  immediately  give  them  chase,  which  was  obvious  on 
account  of  the  extreme  limpidness  of  the  lake.  I  was  enabled 
to  bring  back  several  specimens,  shot  from  my  craft  on  the 
lake,  as  well  as  a  specimen  of  monkey  which  has  as  yet  not 
been   named. 

Gazing  up  at  the  steep  cliffs  on  all  sides,  the  vines  hang- 
ing In  theatrical   festoons,  and  the  weird,  weird  beauty  of  the 

various  foliaije  contrasting-  with 


the    grand     trunks    of    whited 

trees,  the  strange  murmur 

of  the  waters,  the  remarkable  out- 

PHALACROCORAX  "£>■ 

AFRicANus.  _»w»»*^       break  of  waves  crested  with  foam,  the 

small  circle  of  sky  as  I  looked  up,  and  the  mad  tumble  of 
rocks,  all  contributed  to  make  it  seem  as  though  I  was  in 
some  phantom  land. 

Everything  was  most  eldritch  and  immense.  At  the  firing 
of  a  gun  the  reverberations  came  back  like  a  thunder-clap — 
sharp,  crashing.  I  should  not  have  been  surprised  to  have 
seen  the  whole  lake  covered  with  some  imcanny  creatures,  or 
to  have  seen  the  apparition  of  some  mammoth  forest  king 
issue  forth  and  assert  himself  as  monarch  of  all  we  surveyed, 
and  crush  us  out  of  existence  as  invaders.  The  hours  spent 
upon  this  lake  at  different  times  held  me  in  a  thraldom  of 
wonder.  There  was  little  said,  very  much  thought,  and 
imagination  thrilled  my  brain  with  the  ineffable  pleasure 
which  1  had  craved  and  sought  for  years,  of  being  the  first  to 
visit  a  place  undefiled  by  the  presence  of  man  before. 


1 


CIRCUMNAVIGATION    OF    LAKE    CHALA.  27 1 

The  thing  which  surprised  me  most  was  the  fact  that  when 
I  pkinged  my  paddle  two  or  three  feet  imder  the  water  at 
various  points,  the  suction  was  so  great  it  would  be  drawn 
away  from  me,  and  only  with  difficulty  could  I  recover  it  and 
resume  control  ;  and  at  other  points  it  would  be  drawn  beneath 
the  float,  and  again  I  would  have  to  tug  lustily  to  pull  it 
back.  At  the  same  time  the  entire  lake  was  in  agitation  ;  it 
was  bubbling  almost  like  a  hot  spring,  and  yet  there  was  no 
rift  in  the  rim  of  the  crest  through  which  currents  of  wind 
could  sweep  down  and  cause  this  commotion. 
After  trying  to  make  a  sounding  with  a 
plummet  and  line  ol  two  hundred  and^^ 
fifty  feet,  without  success,  I  determined  that  it 

PHALACROCORAX 

was  the  reservoir  for  the  meltings  of  the  snow  carbo. 

from  Kilimanjaro,  and  that  these  under-currents  and  counter- 
currents  were  due  to  subterranean  in-takes  and  outlets,  and  that 
this  body  of  water  fed  the  streams  of  the  plains,  and  was  a  water- 
shed subsidiary  to  Kibo  and  Alawenzi.  Another  remarkable 
thing,  although  the  dashing  of  the  water  at  different  times  must 
have  reached  a  greater  height  than  its  level  when  I  was  afloat 
thereon,  as  shown  by  the  moisture  upon  the  boundary  rocks,  they 
were  unstained  by  decayed  vegetation  and  uncolored  by  mineral 
deposit.  It  was  perfectly  clear  and  clean,  as  evidenced  by 
the  specimens  of  rock  I  took  the  pains  to  bring  home  for 
analysis.  The  water  to  the  taste  was  not  disagreeable,  but 
was  sott  and  sweet,  a  trifle  warm,  72°,  whereas  the  atmospheric 
mean  temperature  was  74°.     As  we  cast  about  the  margin  of 


272 


SULTAN    TO    SULTAN. 


this  lake,  with  its  seductive  little  insects  making  unrevealed 
bays,  until  one  was  fairly  upon  the  turn  of  the  margin,  it  was  so 
exquisite  and  beautiful !  and  as  far  as  the  water  scene  and  the 
surrounding  forest  of  vegetation,  I  could  scarcely  believe  it  pos- 
sible such  beauty  could  be  encompassed  within  the  precincts  of 
the  crater  lake,  nor  have  I  ever  heard  or  read  of  a  parallel  crater. 
Although  this  is  doubtless  one  of  the  last  evidences  of  a 
volcanic  eruption  in  this  region,  it  has  survived  the  memory 
of   the   people.     The    fabulous   tradition    concerning  it   is   that 


KILIMANJARO. 

when  the  sun  sank  into  the  mouth  of  Mawenzi,  the  Masai 
village  which  was  located  upon  the  site  of  the  lake  when  Chala 
was  a  mountain  was  tossed  into  the  air,  and  crreat  rush  of 
water  rose,  filling  up  the  .space  and  making  the  present  lake, 
and  hatl  swallowetl  the  i)eop]e  ;  and  that  the  strange  murmur, 
which  is  almost  unaccountable,  is  caused  by  the  spirits  of  those 
unhappy  wretches,  and  the  soughing  of  the  trees  is  the  lowing 
of  the  cattle  and  bleating  of  the  sheep,  and  the  clapping  of  the 


CIRCUMNAVIGATION    OF    LAKE    CIIALA.  273 

reeds  is  the  cackling  of  the  fowl.  Another  version  of  this 
tradition  is  that  the  people  of  the  Ma?ai  village  that  was  once 
located  here  had  committed  so  many  depredations  against 
other  tribes,  became  arrogant  and  ungrateful,  and  refused  to 
pay  tribute  for  years  to  Kibo  and  Mawenzi ;  so  the  angry  God 
of  the  Mountains  inundated  their  village,  and  swept  them  far 
away  out  of  existence. 

"What  length  of  far-famed  ages,  billowed  high 
\\'ith  human  agitation,  roll  along 
In  unsubstantial  images  of  air  !" 

Capt.  Sir  John  C.  Willoughby  says :  "  Making  a  slight 
detour,  by  climbing  the  lower  slopes  of  Kilimanjaro,  which 
enabled  us  to  visit  the  curious  Lake  Cala  [Chala],  no 
sooner  had  we  ascended  the  low  hills  encircling  its  eastern 
shore  than  we  were  rewarded  b)-  a  glorious  view.  At  least  a 
thousand  feet  below  us  nestled  the  lovely  lake,  somewhat 
triangular  in  shape,  and  from  one  to  two  and  a  half  miles  in 
its  widest  diameter,  completely  embedded  among  hills  and 
cliffs, —  a  basin  in  which  the  great  Masai  Mountain  God  could 
always  wash  his  hands.  From  our  position  its  shores  appeared 
inaccessible,  but  the  natives  declared  a  descent  was  practi- 
cable." Notwithstanding  this  statement,  I  was  not  enabled  to 
find  that  any  of  my  porters  had  heard  of  any  one  descending 
to  the  surface  of  the  lake,  or  to  meet  any  native  who  had  gone 
to  the  water's  edee  or  who  could  be  induced  to  descend " 
thereto  ;  and  instead  of  being  the  subject  of  curiosity,  which 
I  had  apprehended  and  was  desirous  to  avoid,  when  the  natives 


2  74  SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 

knew  I  intended  to  descend,  and  witnessed  my  preparations, 
they  flew  back,  terror  stricken,  into  their  mountain  villages,  and 
not  one  intrusive  eye  would  gaze  upon  the  white  woman  on  the 
Devil's  water. 

Bewitched  by  Lake  Chala,  I  made  several  descents  at 
different  times,  and  floated  my  little  American  flag  from  the 
pontoon  craft  during  its  circumnavigation.  To  facilitate  matters 
at  some  future  day,  when  I  hoped  to  return,  the  historic  little 
craft  named  for  me  was  buried  in  a  bed  of  leaves,  and  I  re- 
tained a  key  describing  its  secret  hiding-place.  Several  slabs 
loom  up  at  various  intersections  of  the  lake  margin,  defiled  by 
red  paint,  which  emblazon  my  name  and  the  date  of  this  exploit. 

Having  completed  for  the  time  being  my  explorations  of 
Lake  Chala,  I  turned  my  attention  to  the  people  who  inhabit 
that  section  of  Africa. 

My  ears  had  been  filled  with  warning  as  to  the  hostilities 
of  the  Rombos,  consisting,  in  four  or  five  provincial  divisions, 
of  a  tribe  known  respectively  under  the  names  of  Rombo, 
Rombo  Chini,  Rombo  of  the  Bara,  Rombo  Colis,  inhabiting 
the  plain  and  hills  between  Lake  Chala  and  Kilimanjaro ;  so 
with  justifiable  precaution  my  men  were  well  armed,  albeit  I 
was  fully  determined,  unless  the  most  desperate  events  should 
compel  defence,  under  no  pretext  to  use  firearms,  and  had 
impressed  this  upon  my  porters  before  making  the  venture, 
giving  strict  orders  to  my  headman  to  punish  any  porter 
severely  who  violated  my  command,  and  under  no  circumstances 
to  fire  at  natives,  or  even  the  wild  animals  haunting  this  region,^ 


CIRCUMNAVIGATION    OF    LAKE    CHALA.  2/5 

without  word  of  command  from  either  myself  or  himself.  My 
first  impression  of  the  physical  aspect  of  their  domain  environ- 
ing Lake  Chala  was  most  inauspicious,  presenting  great  gloomy 
hill  slopes,  with  basaltic  formation  and  rotted  lava  stones  inter- 
spersed with  thorn-bushes,  although  overshadowed  by  the  majes- 
tic twin  peaks  of  Kilimanjaro, —  snow-capped  Kibo,  crenelated 
Mawenzi,  —  which  certainly  lent  a  scenic  splendor  to  the  horizon. 
The  plantations,  which  are  unquestionably  fertile,  were  so  far  re- 
moved from  my  line  of  march  that  they  were  scarcely  discernible. 
A  succession  of  animal  pits  ranged  immediately  below  the 
point  where  we  were  to  encamp,  which  were  set  by  the  Rombo 


ROlMBO    SPEAR. 


people,  who  are  trap  hunters  rather  than  hunters  of  chase. 
The  curious  construction  of  these  animal  pits  is  worthy  a 
word.  The  Rombos  and  other  native  trap  hunters  dig  a  pit 
of  about  four  feet  wide,  six  to  ten  feet  longf,  si.\  to  eigfht  or 
ten  feet  deep.  This  is  covered  over  with  brush,  and  presents 
no  appearance  of  a  trap  to  the  casual  eye.  They  are  spaced 
at  the  distance  of  say  a  foot  between,  ten  or  twelve  in  a  row, 
so  as  to  intersect  a  path  to  a  water  course  or  water  pool. 
These  traps  are  baited  or  not,  and  the  Rombos  beat  the  bush 
and  jungle  thereabouts,  and  drive  the  animals  who  are  seeking 
water  or  prowling  for  food  into  them,  and  afterwards  kill 
their  prey  with  spears  or  arrows.  However,  they  frequently 
leave    the    traps    undisturbed,    and    withdraw    to    their   hillside 


276  SULTAN    TO    SULTAN. 

bomas,  and  await  the  chance  of  the  animals  straying  unto- 
wardly  into  them.  These  are  used  for  elephants,  lions,  and  all 
other  big  game.  Mischief  not  infrequently  befalls  an  unwary 
traveller  or  a  caravan  passing  through  the  country  during  the 
night,  who  may  fall  into  these  pits  and  become  seriously 
injured;  and  there  are  credible  accounts  that  men  have  tum- 
bled into  the  very  jaws  of  lions  which  had  already  become 
victims.  Another  method  ot  making  a  trap,  especially  for 
elephants,  is  by  excavating  a  large  pit  on  the  usual  caravan 
route,  covered  with  an  ingenious  intertwining  of  vines,  upon 
the  top  of  which  is  placed  a  covering  of  sod  and  sand,  to  all 
appearances  no  different  from  the  rest  of  the  path.  These 
are  excessively  dangerous,  because  interspersed  beneath  the 
outer  covering  are  sharp  spikes,  made  of  tusks  or  spear-heads, 
or  even  giant  thorns,  to  step  upon  which  is  most  injurious 
and  painful.  These  are  incidental  disadvantages  to  pleasant 
promenades,  and  can  be  warded  against  b)'  the  judicious  em- 
ployment of  native  guides,  when  one  desires  to  jaass  through 
regions  known  to  be  habited  by  natix'e  hunters. 

To  reiterate,  the  Rombos  living  in  this  region  have  ever 
been  deemed  a  very  ferocious  people,  tricky  in  their  dealings 
with  other  natives,  and  the  marauders  of  passing  caravans. 
Some  of  their  villages  have  been  closed  even  against  the 
Arabs,  and  they  bring  their  products  to  barter  down  upon  the 
hara,  or  plain,  rather  than  admit  strangers  into  their  kraals. 
With  the  warnings  which  I  had  received,  I  felt  imbued  with 
a  sense  of  precaution  and  unwillingness  to  enter  their  villages 


CIRCUMNAVIGATION    OF    LAKE    CIIALA. 


277 


until   I   could    decide    from    their    manifest    attitude 
likelihood    of   their  looting  my  caravan 
and  probably  murdering  me.      He 
ever,    after   being  beset  with    ear 
nestness  by  the  prime  minister  ot 
one  of    the    sultans,   I    concluded 
to  go  and  see  for  myself;    and 
at  an  hour  when  the  men  were 
all    resting    and    I    could    safely 
leave  the  camp  without    obser- 
vation,   I    selected    four    of   m\ 
most    trusty    headmen    and    an 
interpreter,  and    visited    one   of 
the  Rombo  villages,  to  find  the 
delighted  people  most  civil,  and 
eager  to  do   Bebe   Bwana  hom- 
age.    They    were    neither     un- 
couth   nor    unkind    nor    ungen- 
erous,   and    certainly    far    from 
being  hostile.      They  loaded  me 
with  gifts  of  beautiful  furs  and 
such  other  of  their  worldly  pos- 
sessions   that    I    chanced    to 
admire.       Although,     with      few 
exceptions,     men,     women,     and 
children    were    in    an  absolute,  state 
of  nudity,  the  men  carr>-ing  shields        romb^ 


as    to 


BO  SHIELD.       OUTSIDE. 


278 


SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 


made  of   hippopotamus  hide  three  feet  long  and  a  foot  wide, 
bossed  and  with  pressed  designs,  they  brandished  spears,   the 
blade  end  not  a  foot  loner  and  narrow,  carried  bows  and  arrows, 
their  deportment  was  as  manly  as  one  would  naturally  expect 
from  civilized  people.     When   they  were  presented  b}-  me  with 
cloth  (and  this  I  wish  to  explain  fully,  because  I  have  been  very 
much  misquoted  on  the  subject),  they  looked  about  and  saw  in 
what  manner  my  porters  were  bedecked.      However,  instead  of 
putting  their  cloth  on  from  a  sense  of  prudery  or 
''^      shame,  they  were  as  likely  to  hang  a  piece  of  four 
or  five  yards  trailing  from  their  shoulder,  or  try 
to  twist  it  about  their  heads  as  a  turban,  or 
tie  it  on  to  their  arm  or  leg,  as  much  so  as 
they  were  disposed    to   use   it  as  loin-cloths 
or  surround   their  bodies.     The    idea    which 
evidently  prevailed  with  them,    as  in  lact  it 
I  does  the  world    over,    was    simply  to  follow 
i  .1   fashion,  and  to  imitate  what  they  thought 
was  fine  in   some  one  else.     They  have    no 
consciousness    of    their    nakedness.       They 
bore  themselves  with  so  much  dignity,    and 
1  o-rew    to    regard    their   color    as  abundant 
ROMBo  sHiKi.ii.     INSIDE,  clothing  for  them  in  their  primitive  simpli- 
city.     Truly    they    were    clothed    with    io^-a    virilis,    a    robe 
of    manhood    unfashioned    by    any    mode    of    civilization,    but 
inborn. 

In    passing,  as    an    illustration  of  the  effect  of  superstition 


CIRCUMNAVIGATION    OF    LAKE    CHALA.  279 

upon  these  people,  which  reduces  them  to  a  timorous,  suspi- 
cious state,  the  following  may  be   interesting. 

By  the  suggestion  of  a  man  who  had  gone  from  coast  to 
coast  of  Africa,  subsequently  spending  a  year  in  East  Africa, 
holding  a  position  which  should  have  given  hini  full  insight, 
one  would  suppose,  into  the  habits  and  tastes  of  the  natives, 
and  who  should  have  known  what  would  have  .^s? 
amused  them,  I  took  a  dozen  bright  feather  toy 
birds,  which,  by  means  of  a  rubber  bulb  and  x^  t,.,.  — -v- 
tube,  are  made  to  hop  about  with  great  anima-  toy  bird. 
tion.  The  dull  day  came  when,  quite  at  my  wit's  ends  to  amuse 
some  visitors  from  one  of  the  tribes  of  Rombo,  suddenly  I  recol- 
lected the  birds.  The  case  containing  them  was  opened,  and 
with  great  flourish  I  wound  up  my  music  box  and  set  the  birds 
to  gambol  before  the  wide-open-eyed  guests,  as  they  squatted 
expectant  on  their  heels  around  my  tent. 

Presto !  in  two  seconds  that  robust  vision  of  dusky  war- 
riors, yelling  at  the  top  of  their  voices,  presented  nothing 
but  heels.  They  ran  like  the  rushing  wind,  terrified  by  the 
innocent  toys,  and  as  il  pursued  by  his  Satanic  majesty. 

The  next  morning,  through  the  prime  minister  of  the 
tribe,  they  indignantly  requested  us  to  leave  their  sultanate. 
Unwittingl)'  I  had  actually  betrayed  my  entire  caravan  to 
imminent  peril,  as  the  performance  was  looked  upon  as 
black  art. 

Nothing  more  of  these  natives  was  seen ;  and  after 
exhausting    every    resource    in    my    efforts  to  induce   them    to 


2  8o 


SULTAN    TO    SULTAN. 


return  and  accept  of  our  amity,  they  persistently  refused,  and 
I  was  unable  to  procure  food  for  my  men.  This  threw  us 
into  a  very  sorry  dilemma ;  for  we  were  quite  depending 
upon  reprovisioning  the  caravan  at  this  village,  for  food  was 
scarce  and  cattle  d)ing  off  rapidly  several  marches  beyond 
this  point  of  our  journc\-. 


HOSTILE    ROMBOS. 

Having  to  submit  to  the  folly  of  my  experiment,  so  inno- 
cently made,  it  opened  up  a  new  field  of  consideration  as  to 
a  characteristic  in  their  nature  of  which  I  had  previously 
been  entirely  ignorant. 

This  recalls  another  incident  which  shows  the  importance 
of  striving  to  understand  the  peculiar  characteristics  of 
different  tribes,  in  order  to  know  what  impression  they  are 
likely  to  receive  when  experimented  upon. 


CIRCUMNAVIGATION    OK    LAKE    CIIALA. 


281 


ROMBOS.         VICTIMS    OF    GERMAN    GUNS. 


282  SULTAN    TO    SUI.TAN. 

Observing  a  bevy  of  young  warriors  and  girls  hovering 
about  one  of  my  tents,  I  took  a  hand-mirror  and  through 
the  ventilator  of  my  personal  tent,  unseen  by  them,  I  caught 
the  sun's  rays  and  threw  the  reflection  upon  the  group, 
never  for  a  moment  thinking  of  the  cross-lacing  in  front  ot 
the  opening.  This  made  the  reflection  fall  in  checkers  or 
squares.  An  instant  sufficed.  They  scrambled  pellmell 
away,  thinking  it  was  a  devil's  tattoo  that  I  was  directing 
against  them,  to  enslave  or  put  them  under  a  magic  spell. 

In  connection  with  this  I  must  add,  these  little  traits  of 
character,  based  upon  superstition,  are  like  stepping-stones 
to  the  index  of  their  character ;  and  one  who  is  careless  in 
the  study  of  what  may  on  the  surface  appear  to  be  frivolous 
and  unimportant,  will  miss  the  finest  points  in  the  individu- 
ality of  any  people. 

Whereas  these  natives,  with  the  cited  exception,  treated 
me  with  so  much  courtesy  and  gentleness,  I  still  recall  the 
circumstance  which  has  been  blazoned  throughout  the  world, 
that  when  six  weeks  after  I  had  safely  traversed  that  coun- 
try as  a  lone  woman,  the  celebrated  Dr.  Carl  Peters,  in 
order  to  pass  safely  with  himself  and  armed  soldiers  through 
this  district,  felt  obliged  to  turn  his  guns  on  these  Rombos, 
armed  in  their  simple  fashion,  and  kill  a  hundred  and  twenty 
before  breakfast  one  morning.  It  makes  one's  blood  boil 
with  indignation  !  This,  then,  is  how  Germany  proposes  to 
civilize  and  colonize   Africa. 

I  am  constrained  to  say  either  there  must  have  been  some 


CIRCUMNAVIGATION    OF    LAKE    CHALA.  283 

peculiar  power  vested  in  me  of  a  quality  almost  superhuman 
to  have  enabled  me  to  subdue  these  so-called  hostile 
Rombos,  or  else  Dr.  Peters's  methods  are  simply  brutal, 
atrocious,  and  unnecessary. 

This  distinguished  man  reveals  his  belief  in  despotic 
measures  throughout  Africa.  The  following  citation  from  his 
"  New  Light  on  Dark  Africa,"  respecting  his  manner  of  pro- 
ceeding in  Uganda,  is  a  satire  on  the  title:  "As  I  well  knew 
that  in  case  of  possible  Arab  enterprise  I  should  have  to  rely 
principally  on  moral  impressions,  I  had  taken  care  that  our 
reputation  should  precede  us,  and  had  been  careful,  above  all, 
to  bring  with  me  from  Usoga  a  band  of  war  drums,  which  should 
send  the  signal  of  war  resounding  before  us  over  the  far- 
spreading  heights.  Three  drums  tuned  in  fifths  on  which  the 
roll  was  beaten,  and  the  bigf  drum  coming  in  between,  the 
whole  produced  a  solemn  and  threatening  effect." 

If  an  alien  provokes  by  coercive  measures  the  native  in  his 
own  land  and  develops  all  of  the  worst  propensities  latent  in  his 
nature,  it  is  not  fair  to  lay  the  blame  upon  the  poor  untutored 
native  and  call  him  "  savage." 


>S4 


SULTAN    TO     SULTAN. 


CHAPTER   XI 11. 

VULCANS  OF    CHAGA. 

ULCANS,  fiiiidis,  or  craftsmen    in 
metal  work,   have  attained  a  great 
degree    of     skill     and     perfection 
,.  througliout  Cha^a  land.     The  re- 

\  i  (  1/  nowned  blacksmiths  all  have  been 
[i]"/  or  are  celebrated  chiefs  or  sultans, 
whose  deftness  In  the  forging  of 
spears,  knives,  pipes,  agricultural  imple- 
ments, tools,  bells  and  most  delicate  little  charms,  necklaces, 
armlets  and  leglets,  as  well  as  various  metal  ornaments,  has 
given  them  a  distinctive  prestige  in  other  spheres  of  tribal 
significance. 

Mireali  of  Marungu,  and  Mandara  of  MoschI,  have  held 
their  own,  generally  speaking,  with  the  belligerent  Masai  in 
consideration  of  the  fact  that,  although  great  warriors,  they 
are  dependent  upon  the  skill  of  these  two  sultans  for  their 
spears. 

Mandara  does  not  now  personally  forge  any  weapons,  in 
consequence  of  his  physical  disablement ;  those  made  in  his 
sultanate,  however,  are  practically  his  ware,  and  bear  the  stamp 


VULCANS     OF     CHAGA. 


285 


of  his  original  skill,  temper,  and  patterns.  He  has  rendered 
the  metal  work  ol  Chaga  land  the  envy  of  other  districts,  as 
well  as  the  wonder  of  white   men. 

The  simplicity  and  poverty  of  the  native  tools  make  their 
skill  all  the  more  remarkable.  One  of  their  finest  spears, 
with  its  blade  three  and  a  half  feet  long  and  four  inches  wide 
at  the  broadest  point,  and  an  inch-square 
metal  pike  about  four  feet  long  joined  with  a 
wooden  rod  from  one  to  three  feet  long, 
requires  forty  rings  of  iron  the  thickness  of 
telegraph  wire.  The  texture  of  the  metal 
becomes  fine  and  durable  as  it  is  heated, 
in  order  to  weld,  in  charcoal  fires,  and  neces- 
sarily wrought  very  slowl)',  hence  it  is  the 
gradual  process,  coalescing  the  iron  wire 
into  a  mass,  and  its  carbonizing-  makes  the 
temper  very  fine,  and  converts  the  metal  into  ■ 
an  admirable  semblance  of  steel.  In  lieu  of 
an  anvil,  the  metal  is  forged  upon  a  piece  of 

.  .  BRASS  AND  IRON  BELL 

close-gramed  ironstone    by  a  heavy  stone  or  ear-rings. 

iron  hammer.  The  hot  iron  is  grasped  and  manipulated 
with  a  rude  pair  of  long-handled  pincers  ;  the  fire  is  kept 
alive  by  a  pair  of  native  bellows  alternately  inflated  with 
and  expressing  the  air  as  operated  by  a  man  sitting  between 
them  on  the  ground  opposite  the  fire.  The  nozzles  of  the  bel- 
lows are  made  of  pottery,  and  are  plunged  into  a  small  clay 
oven  ;  the  charcoal  is  doled  out  in  small  quantities,  and  treated 


286 


SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 


sparingly  as  something-  precious  ;  in  lact,  a  long  roll  of  grass, 
neatly  disposed,  contains  the  fuel,  opened  at  one  end,  from 
which  an  attendant  picks  out  with  his  hands,  lump  by  lump, 
or    in    handfuls    the   black    diamonds    to    revive    the    fire ;    his 

miserly    care    impresses    the    onlooker 
with    the  idea    that   he  is  dealing  with 
an  article  oi    great   price,  as  in   fact  it 
in  consequence  of  the   primitive   man- 
ner   it    is    charred    on    the    mountain.     A 
tree    is    fired     about     si.\     feet    from     the 
ground,    and     wet    grass    plastered     in    a 
hummock    over    the    l)urning    portion     to 
smother     the     flames.     When     the     smoul- 
dering  trunk    is   charred,    the    tree    topples 
over,  and  when  a  fresh  supply    of   charcoal 
was  required,   the    body   and    branches  were 
treated  in  the  same  method. 

A  ptndi  is  an  autocrat,  accounted  and 
recognized  to  be  a  great  man  ;  he  bears  an 
imperious  mien,  and  is  always  attended  b}'  a 
coterie  of  followers  and  henchmen  who  do  his 
slightest  biddine,  as  he  bends  over  his  work 
and  fashions  the  articles  of  his  craft  ;  thirsty, 
some  one  gives  him  a  drink  oi  pombc ;  tired 
or  hungry,  he  pauses,  even  betakes  himself  away  for  refresh- 
ment. No  one  presumes  to  suggest  aught  to  him ;  no  one 
dares  to  gainsay  him.      He  is  master  of  his  craft ;   he  realizes 


NATIVE    CALFSKIN 
BELLOWS. 


VULCANS     OF     CHAGA. 


287 


his  own  power ;  he  exercises  his  prerogative  of  superiority 
upon  every  trivial  occasion.  Tlien,  too,  he  has  certain  privi- 
leges and  perquisites  not  accorded  even  to  the  chiefs  who 
are  not  also  fiutdis. 

During  an  evening's  chat  a  fundi  said  to  one  of  my 
interpreters,  "  Come  now,  good  man,  where  would  the  war- 
riors be,  if  it 
were    not     for  / 


the  spears  and 
knives  that 
\\\Q.  fundi  make  ? ' 

The     interpre- 
ter    queried,     "  Do 
you  fight?" 

"  Fight,     boy? 
Me  fight?    No,  I  make  spears, 
so   that  cl-viorau    (warriors)  native  calfskin  bellows. 

fight  in  the  right  waj-  ;    fight  to  kill." 

At  this  he  seized  by  the  middle  the  wooden  part  of  a 
spear  which  he  had  stuck  in  the  ground  erect  in  front  of 
himself  when  he  had  squatted  down  before  the  crackling 
camp-fire  to  chat. 

"  See  !  see,  boy  ! "  He  cleverly  balanced  the  double 
weapon,  spear-head  one  end,  pike  the  other,  plunging  for- 
ward with  an  upward  sweep  the  fire-flashed  metal,  describing 
a  broad  arc,  yet  he  did  not  let  go  of  the  wooden  centre, 
but  rushed  ahead  until   it  had  reached  its    limit,  then  whirled 


288  SULTAX     TO     SULTAN. 

A 

the  weapon  out,  and  vaulting  backward   forcibly    drove   the 

pike  into  the  ground  behind  him,  when,  with  a  glow  of 
satisfaction  over  his  own  prank,  he  exclaimed,  "  See,  boy ! 
see  ! "  quickly  uprooting  the  quivering  weapon,  again  vio- 
lently swirling  it  from  right  to  left  in  the  same  wild  manner, 
leaping  sideways  with  agility  as  if  parrying  a  blow;  "this, 
boy,  this  is  the  way  I,  the  great  fundi  ot  Fimbosa,  teach 
the  warriors ;  they  may  kill  a  foe  in  an  eye-look  with  my 
beautiful  spears."  Poising  the  heavy  weapon  on  the  fore- 
finger of  his  right  hand  until  it  gently  swung  like  a  pendu- 
lum, he  sauntered  away,  evidently  loath  to  remain  in  the 
presence  of  Zanzibari  who  was  ignorant  of  his  noble  calling 
and  of   the  brave  fabrications  thereof. 

In  good  truth,  to  be  a  spear  or  sword  fujidi  requires 
admirable  skill  and  practice  alike  of  eye  and  hand,  in  order 
to  shape,  balance,  set,  edge,  and  polish  the  blades,  much 
more  so  certainly  than  is  required  to  make  their  agricultural 
implements  and  small  knives,  although  they  are  more  or 
less  all  made  according  to  tribal  conventional  shapes,  gauged 
by  the  recjuirements  ot   utilit)'. 

Still  more  delicate  and  nimble,  but  not  so  masterful, 
must  be  the  fingers  of  those  who  are  the  jewellers  among.st 
the  fundi s,  for  the  fine  wire  the)-  make  by  repeatedly  and 
laboriously  drawing  when  heated  with  long,  slender  pincers 
through  the  cJiambiwo  or  perforated  metal  or  stone  screens  of 
various   sizes  in  order  to  reduce  to  a  delicate  size  to  make 

MASAI 

SPEAK,  the  slender  link  chains  which  are  so  pliant  and  marvellously 


3.-    ' 

^ 

■~'^". 

< 

O 

VULCANS     OF     CHAGA. 


289 


dainty,  and  the  many  sizes  of  metal  beads  they  manufacture 
by  cutting  from  a  wire  cubes  of  certain  length,  then,  by  beating 
them  thin  and  flat,  turn  them  into  little  cylinders,  pressing 
the  edges  so  close 
the  union  is 
scarcely  noticea- 
ble, at  the  same 
time  keeping  them 
round.  Some 
square  dice- 
shaped  metal 
beads  are  also 
made    by    them. 

It  occurs  to 
me  that  if  cara- 
vans would  carr)- 
for  barter  suitable 
tubings  of  differ- 
ent metal  and 
different  sizes,  it 
would  vastly  re- 
duce the  labor  of 
the  native  metal 
workers;  although 
it  is  questionable 
if  more  accurate  and  symmetrical  forms  of  machine-made  tubing 
would    lend    beauty  to  their  present    fabrications.     They    have 


METAL  CHAIN  EAR-RINGS,   BRASS,   COPPER,  AND  IRUX   HEADS. 


290 


SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 


an  odd  habit  of  placing  around  a  staff  rings  of  iron  wire,  and 
stringing  together  links  of  chains   to    be  used  when   required. 
The  only  crucibles  I   could  discover  in  the 
regions  I  visited  were  stones  hollowed  out  and 
a  fire  built  all  around   them,    inside    and    out, 
until  they  became  white  hot,  when  the  inside 
was   brushed   out  and  iron,  brass,  copper,  and 
solder  put  in,  then  kept  hot  by  the  surrounding 
fire     until   it   melted,  when     they    would    pour 
the     liquefied    metal     into    a    wooden     mould 
the  shape  of  the  bracelet  or  necklet  required, 
which    they    had     previously     soaked     until 
thoroughly    saturated,    first    in    grease,    then 
in  water ;  but  this  method  is  not  held  desira- 
ble.    The    native    connoisseurs    prefer    the 
hand-forged  articles  of  jewelry,  in  the  same 
manner  as  do  civilized   folk  prefer  anything 
hand    wrought    to    that    which    is     cast    or 
machine  made.     I  am  not   speaking  of   the 
people    far    up  on  the  mountain,  who    use 
great   furnaces   and    smelt   native  iron,  but 
of  the  people  of  Chaga  land,  whom  I  was 
privileged  to  see  at  work.      Hence  I   hope 
I  will  not  be  understood  as  assuming  there 
are  no  furnaces  in   East  .Africa. 

Their   graving  tools  are  very  primitive, 

REAL    SIZE    SMALLEST    CHAGA 

BRASS  BEADS.  generally  consisting  of  a  piece  of  iron  they 


VULCANS    OF    CHAGA. 


291 


have  welded,  having  a  narrow  chisel  edge  with  which  they  cut 
into  the  articles,  much  as  do  the  artisans  in  civilized  countries, 
by  tapping  the  instrument  with  a  metal  or  stone  hammer  when 
held  on  the  article  to  be  embellished,  and  follow  the  pattern, 
thus  graving  out  the  design  intended.  All  of  their  processes 
are  slow,  requiring  great  patience,  —  a  quality  patent  to  native 
peoples  the  world  over.  They  insert  or  incn 
bits  of  silver,  gold,  and  other  metals,  bits  of 
ivory,  bone,  beads,  into  wooden  vessels  and 
gourds  most  cleverly.  This  is  done  in  a  style 
durable,  finished,  and  artistic,  far  from  being 
trumpery,  and  certainly  not  slipshod.  They 
finish  off  with  spiral  rings  of  fine  copper  or 
brass  wire  or  dainty  rows  of  beads  the  ends 
of  all  objects,  or  where  there  are  two  parts 
joined,  or  one  material  used  for  embellish- 
ment or  it  merges  into  another  for  lack  of 
quantity,  or  prompted  by  the  selection  of 
taste,  displays  the  trait  of  perfection  which 
is  the  acme  of  all  crafts.  Ear-rings  five 
inches  in  diameter,  of  double  circles  of 
brass  wire,  like  Catharine  rings,  are  most  perfectly  shaped 
and  highly  polished  ;  and  this  without  any  tools  except  pincers 
or  hammers,  pieces  of  flint  and  pumice  stone,  and  perchance 
when  they  are  fortunate  enough  to  possess  a  file  procured 
trom  some  Arab  caravan.  The  art  of  buffing  or  polishing, 
smoothing    oft     and    brightening,    is    effectually    done     in     the 


ME'lAL  EAR-R1N(;S. 


292 


SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 


first  place  with  pumice  stone,  in  which  this  volcanic  region 
abounds,  wood  ashes,  using  as  buffers  goat,  sheep,  and  cow 
skins,  as  well  as  the  palms  of  the  hands  well  moistened. 
If  you  will  take  the  trouble  to  watch  a  group  of  this 
dusky  people  before  a  fire  which  has  burned  long  and 
the  ashes  accumulated,  you  may  .see  some  of  their  number 
spitting  into  the  palms  of  their  hands,  which  they  dip  into 
the  ashes  and  afterwards  vigorously  rub  their  bracelets  or 
anklets,  and  the  brightness  and  glitter  which  their  orna- 
ments    preserve,    although     coated    with    grease     and    clay,    I 

have  never  been  able  to  procure  with- 
out using  burnishing  irons  and  pumice 
powder  mi.xed  with  kerosene  or  lye. 
Ornamentation  appears  as  a  species 
of    religion     with     them,     and     they     never 
seem  to  be   content  with  their    possessions  to 
the  point  that  they  cease  to  strive  to  accumu- 
late more. 

Vanity  and  love  of  finery,  in  Africa  at  least,  are  free  from 
being  exclusively  feminine,  for  the  men  are  quite  as  prone 
to  indulge  in  personal  bedeckment  as  the  women,  if  not  more 
so,  and  amongst  some  tribes  the  warriors  and  patcrfamtlias 
do  all  the  strutting  about  and  fancy  work,  whilst  the  women 
toil,  till  the  plantations,  carry  wood,  carry  the  fodder  for  the 
cattle,  care  for  the  stall-fed  creatures.  They  stick  with  marked 
tenacity  to  a  mode  in  decorations,  and  seemingly  avoid  exer- 
cising originality  in  design,  in  order  to  follow  a  fashion.     Very 


NATIVE   SEME    AND 
SCABBARD. 


VUI.CANS    OF    CHAGA. 


293 


true,  this  fashion  may  change  or  become  diversified  when  the 
people  of  various  tribes  mingle  in  friendly  association,  and 
possibly  exchange,  present,  or  barter  their  trinkets  to  some 
•enterprising  youth  or  girl.  Anon,  frequently  when  they  can- 
not get  what  they  crave  in  gewgaws,  they  will  not  refuse 
what  is  proffered,  unless  it  is  in  lieu  of  a  purchase; 
then  they  will  not  as  a  rule  be  swayed,  save  by 
their  own  will.  To  their  native  metal  work  they 
frequently  subjoin  charms,  c/awa,  or  medicine  beads, 
animals'  teeth,  which  are  worn  for  various  complaints, 
and  frequently  loaned  by  members  of  a  family  one 
to  the  other.  Their  bells  have  various  uses  and 
various  significance,  beside  that  of  ornamenta- 
tion. A  warrior's  bell,  six  inches  long,  turned 
over  in  shape,  with  a  metal  bullet  or  metal 
piece  within,  is  attached  to  a  leather  beaded 
band,  which  is  worn  below  the  knee  by  the 
Masai    during    times   of  war.     A  little  iron  bell, 

IKON  BELL  WORN 

three  inches  long  and  two  in  diameter,  with  by  a  woman. 
a  long  bar-shaped  tongue,  constructed  somewhat  after  the 
pattern  of  a  lily,  is  worn  by  a  woman  during  her  first  preg- 
nancy. It  serves  as  a  warning  to  those  who  approach  her : 
the  herders  driving  home  the  cattle,  and  youths  dancing,  and 
all  those  who  might  suddenly  frighten  her,  take  heed  of  the 
warning  tinkle,  are  silenced,  and  let  her  pass  unmolested. 
Then  the  majority  if  not  all  of  the  people  in  most  of  the  tribes 
wear    little  jingling    bells,    affixed    to   thongs   strapped   around 


294 


SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 


their  ankles  or  arms ;  and  in  the  tribes  on  the  mountain,  if  a 
woman  or  man  is  found  at  night  outside  the  boiiia  without 
these  bells,  they  are  supposed  to  be  on  some  evil  errand,  and 
must  suffer  accordingly.  Then  they  wear  little  bells,  like 
turnover  pies,  in  their  ears,  around  their  arms,  around  their 
dancing  wands.  They  put  bells  around  the  necks  of  one  or 
two  of  their  cattle  in  a  herd,  when  they  are  grazing  in  the 
open,  and  hang  them  about  the  fringes  of  their  bead  orna- 
ments;  and  they  all  have  a  peculiar  sound  of  their  own. 
They  use  a  circlet  of  bells  to  teach  the  children 
how  to  walk. 

Catching  sight  of  and  hearing  the 
%/  jingle  of  a  string  of  cowrie-shaped  small 
-*\  iron  bells  attached  to  a  leather  strap  around 
the  ankles  of  a  mere  toddler,  and  observing 
the  little  one  constantly  looking  down  to  her 
feet  striving  to  see  them,  apparently  to  the 
great  danger  of  her  equilibrium  every  time 
they  tinkled,  I  asked  her  mother  why  she  allowed  the  child 
to  wear  them,  at  the  risk  of  having  her  fall. 
"To  make  her  walk,"  was  her  prompt  reply. 
Then  she  pointed  to  the  little  feet,  and  1  watched  the 
child's  performance  only  a  minute  to  be  convinced  of  the 
cleverness  of  the  maternal  trick.  The  little  one  would  move 
a  foot  In  an  undecided,  unsteady  way  to  put  It  to  the 
ground,  when  the  bells  would  tinkle,  and  with  frantic  efforts 
she    would   wriggle  her  body  in  every  direction   to  see  where 


BELLS    WORN     BY 
INFA.NIS. 


VULCANS     OF     CHAGA.  295 

the  noise  came  from,  and  half  losing  her  equipoise,  up 
would  fly  the  other  foot,  then  she  would  hear  another  sound 
of  bells ;  and  so  on  indefinitely  going  through  with  the  same 
performance,  one  foot  and  the  other  alternately,  until  she 
had  crossed  the  broad  ground  of  the  boma. 

By    a    happy    chance    I    had    a    large    supply  of   table  and 
call  bells    and    small    sleigh    bells,    which    were    received 
with     delicjht     as     shifts,     and     the     natives    were    even 

o  o 

anxious   to    barter  for. 

Their    knives  are  sometimes  oddly  shaped,   some- 
times rude  enough,  again  works  of  artistic  cutlery.       /  /      /\ 
Frequently  they    wear  them    on    their    arms    in        /^4^ 
a    leather    band,     with     little     tubes    of    arrow   / 
poison  strung  on  to  them  by  delicate  metal 
chains  or  strips  of  leather  ;    they  also  thrust 
them    into    their    belts    for    convenience    in 

MEDICINE  MAN'S  KNIFE 

case    of  defence,  as   well  as  to  be  able  on       and  poison  tubes. 
the    instant    to    cut    the    thorns,    bananas,  corn,  grass,   and    to 
dig  out  their  wooden    utensils. 

Banana  knives  are  rough,  heavy  blades,  set  in  short, 
straight  wooden  handles,  sharpened  on  the  inner  groove,  so 
that  they  hook  them  around  the  stalk  of  a  bunch  of  bananas 
and  deftly  with  one  sweep  detach  it  from  the  main  branch. 

Rings  and  bracelets,  leglets  and  neck  ornaments,  in  the 
case  of  the  Masai  women,  consist  of  great  coils  like  ex- 
aggerated multifold  continuous  bangles  or  car  springs,  finished 
off  with    other    metals;     the  body  of    the  ornament,  which    is 


296 


SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 


usually  iron,  garnished  with  copper  and  brass  by  way  of  con- 
trast, always  with  the  idea  of  accentuating  display.  Almost 
every  man  understands  in  an  amateurish  way  something  of 
metal  work.  He  makes  for  himself,  his  sweetheart,  or  wives 
rings  and  bracelets  and  anklets,  but  he  is  not  a  master,  not 
a  fundi. 

They  showed  me  the  source  from  which  they  pattern  the 
splendid  Masai  spears,  and  I  was  delighted  to  find  it  was  the 


ORNAMENTS    WORN    BY    A   MASAI    WOMAN.       IRON    COILS    FINISHED   WITH 
BR.4SS    AND    COPPER. 

leaf  of  the  same  species  of  cactus  as  the  Spanish  sword  bayonet, 
indigenous  to  various  tropical  regions,  and  when  a  leaf  of  this 
cactus  was  held  beside  their  implement,  the  accuracy  of  their 
eyes  and  gift  of  reproduction  were  evidenced,  for  the  shape 
was  a  complete  copy,  even  as  to  the  little  peculiar  roundness 
of  the  point,  and  the  ridge  running  through  the  centre  of 
the  spear,  which  puts  the  stamp  of  grace  upon  a  master- 
piece ;    and  their  smaller  spears,  that  are  used  by  the  Rombo 


VULCANS    OF    CHAGA.  297 

and     other     tribes,     are    imitations    of   rubber    and    magnolia 
leaves. 

They  make  crude  bullets  and  spoons,  arrowheads,  rude 
razors.  This  latter  is  not  to  be  wondered  at,  as  it  seems  to 
be  one  of  the  traditional  coat-of-arms  of  all  negroes.  How- 
ever, their  razors  have  no  wings;  they  do  notj 
fly,    as    in    America. 

The  way  in  which  they  turn 
to  account  every  bit  of 
shining  metal  is  some- 
times amusing.  Ever) 
tin  can,  when  emptied,  is 
carefully  pre- 
served to  pre- 
sent to  them  by 
the  porters,  who  make 
efforts  to  win  a  smile,  obtain  a  favor,  or  procure  a  tidbit  for 
their  pot  they  could  not  otherwise  afford.  One  day  after  dis- 
carding the  metal  tube  upon  which  had  been  rolled  surgical 
plaster,  spindle  shaped,  with  circular  ends  colored  bright  red, 
I  was  pleased  to  see  a  pretentious  young  warrior  sally  about 
the  camp  with  the  article  thrust  into  his  ears.  The  tops  of 
the  cans  they  would  convert  into  dangling  dice,  scalloped, 
diamond  shaped,  round,  square,  to  add  a  lustre  to  their  own 
finery.  Watch  and  clock  wheels  are  likewise  e.xtracted  from 
timekeepers  to  mark  the  rapid  pace  of  fashion  in  ornamen- 
tation. 


warrior's  bell. 


298 


SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 


Soda-water  bottles  were  pounced  on  with  avidity,  and  the 
men  would  squabble  until  blows  ensued  for  their  possession. 
They  liked  to  have  the  bottles  to  carry  water  or  milk  for 
their  own  use,  as  well  as  to  barter  with  the  natives.  In 
sauntered  on  a  village  palaver  ground  a  native,  in  truth  a  so- 
called  crown  prince,  with  twelve  soda-water  bottles  attached 
to  a  leather  girdle ;  the  dozen  represented  his  accumulation 
of     possibly     years,     but     this     moment    in    my    presence    he 

thought  the  proper  occa- 
L  sion  to  disport  his  soi- 
1  i^isan/  treasure.  For 
this  delicate  tribute  I 
held  a  full-dress  reception, 
attired  in  my  court  gown  and 
all  the  splendors  of  my  jewel 
box  and  portable  wardrobe.  As 
usual,  the  function  was  a  very  dis- 
tinguished social  success,  and  exalted 
me  far  above  mortals  of  common  clay 
in  the  estimation  of  sultan,  crown  prince,  courtiers,  and  ple- 
beians. All  the  world  over  tailors  and  dressmakers  hold  a 
rule  and  reign  wherever  civilization  dares  stride.  Decency 
and  style  with  the  enlightened,  the  spirit  of  monkey-like 
imitation  with  the  untutored  primitives,  make  votaries  to  the 
tyrant  Fashion. 

Soon  after  a  splendid  Masai  spear  had  been  received  by 
me,  the    chief   of  camp  story-telling    made  it  the    occasion  to 


DANCING    BELL. 


VULCANS     OF     CHAGA. 


299 


flourish  before  his  comrades,  after  scornfully  listening  to  a 
green  porter's  yarn  about  some  cruelty  practised  by  the  Somali, 
burst  out  vehemently  :  — 

"What!  you  call  that  worth  the  telling,  man?  Come  now, 
listen  to  a  true  story.  It  will  put  warmth  into  your  blood, 
and    make   you    sleep   with    your   e\'es    open.      When    I    first 


NATIVE  VULCAN  S  BRACELETS. 


came  to  Masai  country,  aye,  before  you  had  stopped  tugging 
at  your  mother's  breasts,  coming  from  the  winter's  sun-bed, 
we    saw    two    men    carrying  — " 

He  turned  and  darted  a  fierce  glance  of  defiance  on  the 
group  of  porters  certainly  uncalled  for,  as  they  sat  mutely 
engrossed  in  the  progress  of  his  story,  never  vouchsafing  to 
lisp    one   word.      "Do    you    know    what?"     he    said   to    one; 


?oo 


SULTAX    TO    SULTAN. 


"or  you?  or  you?  or  you?"  and  he  pointed  with  his  knob 
Kerry  stick  rapidly  from  one  of  his  followers  to  another, 
never  expecting  an  answer.  "Ha!  ha!  I  might  have  known 
you  couldn't  guess.  Well,  mark  you!  keep  your  ears  open 
as  the  day.  Upon  a  spear — a  spear  like  this!" — and  he  took 
up  a  large  Masai  spear  —  "two  Masai  carried  between  them, 
upon  which  swung  the  bodies  of  three  Rombos,  spitted  like 
fish  to  bake !  rigfht  throuoh  the  middle,  on  the  same  haft ! 
Hey !  who  dares  gainsay  that  ?  Vou  see,  lads,  I  have  travelled. 
A  man  must  travel  to    see  and    to    tell." 

And  he  swaggered  on  down  through  the  camp,  quite 
satisfied  with  the  horror  he  had  inspired  ;  and  it  occurred  to 
me  that  a  white  woman  must  travel  at  the  head  of  a  caravan 
to  hear  such  yarns. 


PRIMITIVE     KI.MANGEUA. 


;oi 


<.\>;  \ 


CHAPTER   XIV. 

;  PRIMITIVE    KIMANGELIA. 

IMANGELIA,  at  the  height  of  four  thou- 
sand seven  hundred  feet    above    the    sea 
level,    in    the    mountain    forests    on    the 
ortheastern  slope  of  Kilimanjaro,  be- 
tween the  second  and  third  decree 
south    of    the    equator,    forms    the 
frontier  of  Masai  land,  was  the  objec- 
tive   point    of  a    two    or   more    days' 
■■■*-'  march.      It    became    necessary   to  re- 

pose considerable  confidence  in  a  native  guide  bearing  the 
geographical  appellation  of  Mombasa  of  Taveta,  —  a  perfect 
dandy  in  his  make  up,  handsome  and  self-conscious,  faithful 
and  inoffensive.  He  had  been  born  at  Useri,  but  lived  at 
Taveta.  The  hue  of  his  complexion  betokened  the  inter- 
mingling of  w'hite  blood  in  his  veins.  Mombasa  of  Taveta 
insisted,  and  was  riofht,  too,  that  the  forest  village  was  above 
Useri  on  the  mountain,  whereas  an  English  official,  desirous 
of  floating  the  English  flag  and  enter  a  first  claim  in  behalf 
of  the  English,  recognizing  the  established  fact  that  all  terri- 
tory above    the    plains  must  be  German,  and    having  sited  in 


302  SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 

the  distance  from  Lake  Chala  the  jjlantations  of  Kimangelia, 
had  concluded  that  it  must  be  below  the  lake  region,  uhich 
was  a  theme  of  dispute  then,  but  since  has  been  admitted  to 
be  German.  He  had  laid  out  another  route,  by  following 
which,  in  spite  of  Mombasa's  protests,  the  caravan  was  com- 
pelled to  make   a  long    tedious  detour. 

Lake  Chala  was  then  debatable  grounds  in  consequence  of 
the  gradual  slope  of  the  plain  from  Taveta  to  the  lake 
^  which  is  so  gentle  that  the  rim  of  the  crater  ap- 
proached from  Taveta  seems  almost  on  a  level  with 
the  plain.  Dr.  Myer  has  expressed  an  opinion  that 
even  Taveta  should  legitimately  belong  to  the  Germans. 
There  is  much  striving  to  encroach  on  all  sides  in  the 
establishment  of  territorial  lines  throughout  Africa, 
which  demonstrates  the  importance  attached  to  Afri- 
can possessions,  especially  in  this  particular  section 
Y  of  East  Africa.  The  Chaga  language  is  almost  uni- 
versally spoken  after  leaving  Taveta  on  the  slopes  of 
LEGLET.  Kilimanjaro,  and  I  was  informed  throughout  Masai 
country.  The  agreed  governmental  plan  of  allotting  the 
highlands  and  mountain  of  Kilimanjaro  to  the  Germans, 
and  the  plains  and  all  territory  to  the  east  to  the  English,  it 
would  seem  cannot  be  consistently  adhered  to,  for  the  reasons 
that  the  highland  habitants  must  have  access  to  the  grassy 
plains  for  fodder  and  to  hunt,  whereas  the  habitants  of  the 
plains  should  have  recourse  to  the  highlands  for  their  planta- 
tions, hence  with  strictly  maintained  dividing  lines  there  must 


PRIMITIVE     KIMANGELIA. 


303 


constantly    arise    friction  and  worse ;    for    it  can  hardly  be  ex- 
pected that  either  the  English  or  the  Germans  will  complacently 
submit    to    the    rigid    enforcement    of   territorial    lines,    or    the 
collection    of   imposts    in   these   primitne  re  ■^jsj^, 
gions,    with    mainly    a  native  constitu-      .^   ,\  .^mtmwi^^^r 

ency    to    levy    upon.  ^.^H'  *  W^^'',- 

^«  1'  rrni  ftj. .  --Si 
From  this  point  I   took    guides  from 

the  tribes,  with  the   idea  that  I   would 

hold   these  ouides,   in  case  of  attack    ->  V^%  ^ 

or  hostility,   as  hostages,  and  the 

instant    the    first    tribe    made    an 

assault  on  me   or    my  caravan,    I    i//-*^^ 

would     punish     these     guides    in    ,.-'-'-y  ■. 

some    unmistakable    manner    that 

would  stand  as    a   warning  to  all 

further   aggressors.       They   were 

also  useful  to  point   out    difficulties,  #/■,  '■• 

avoid  traps,  and  show  the  most  acces-      ^i'''-^ 

sible  paths.      Before    I  got    through    with 

OSIRICH    KEAIHER 

m)-  journe\-,    I    had    attached  to  ni)'  little        masai  mask. 
army  forty  of  these   half-prisoner  guides,    who    were    perfectly 
happy,  in  their  unconsciousness  of  the  motive  which  actuated 
me,    to   jog   along    day    after    day    enjoying    the   fellowship    of 
the  porters. 

The  people  of  Useri  were  somewhat  disturbed  in  their 
minds  upon  the  appearance  of  the  white  woman's  caravan. 
They  were  under  German  protection,  flying  the  German  flag, 


304  SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 

and  hesitated  in  giving  to  me  the  welcome  othet"  tribes  had 
extended.  I  sent  two  messengers  to  the  Sultan  Malimia's 
boma,  saying  we  would  await  him  half  an  hour,  or,  as  they 
quaintly  say,  "  until  the  sun  is  there,"  pointing  to  a  special 
place  in  the  heavens;  and  while  I  was  waiting  it  gave  me  a 
little    opportunity  to    study  the    people. 

The  women  were  decorated  very  much  after  the  fashion  of 
the  Wa-Taveta,  with  the  exception  that  they  wore  from  a 
clumped  piece  of  hair  on  the  centre  of  their  forehead  little 
circular  bone  ornaments,  terminating  in  metal  fringes,  which 
hung  down  over  the  nose;  and  some  of  them  wore  metal 
chains  around  their  heads,  which  hung  lil<e  fringed  veils  to 
their  eyebrows  ;  and  their  ears  were  pierced  at  every  point 
possible,  into  which  were  thrust  beads  and  pods,  and  long 
ivory  or  bone  pendent  rings.  The  men  were  shy  and  had  a 
hang-dog  look  about  their  faces,  which  might  have  arisen 
from  their  recent  subjugation  by  treaty  of  the  Germans,  and 
the  presence  of  German  soldiers  in  their  midst;  they  seemed 
uneasy  and  on  the  lookout  for  a  surprise. 

Sultan  Malimia  did  not  make  his  appearance  at  the  stated 
time,  so  we  proceeded  on  our  journey  to  be  overtaken,  when 
five  minutes  beyond  the  confines  of  his  province,  by  a  message 
through  his  prime  minister  to  say  that  if  Bebe  Bwana  would 
only  return  he  would  receive  her,  and  he  had  some  fine 
presents.  I  promptly  said,  "  Bebe  Bwana  never  returns.  If 
the  Sultan  of  Useri  wishes  to  see  her,  let  him  follow  her  to 
the  next  encampment."     This  resulted  in  his  sending  after  me 


PRIMITIVE     KIMANGELIA. 


305 


a  meagre  quantity  of  presents,  -which  I  did  not  accept.  In  any 
country  but  Africa  this  would  assume  the  appearance  of  surli- 
ness or  contempt  on  a  traveller's  part,  but  in  Africa  the  prestige 
of  the  white  man  or  woman  must  be  maintained  through  certain 
current  conventions,  which  are  well  known  with  all  the  natives. 

We  passed  the  fountains  of  Useri,  which  are  more  in  the 
name  than  in  fact,  and  more  like  pools  than  fountains. 

From  this  point,  passing  through  many  villages  and 
small  tribes,  we  directed  our  course  to  Kimangelia 

Wart  hogs  and  other  rather  wild  beasts 
abounded,  and  the  fresh  spoor  of  rhinoceros,  the 
occasional  bellow  of  buffalo,  and  the  crushed  grass 
showing  evidences  of  beds  just  forsaken  by  recent 
denizens,  made  our  march  somewhat  anxious. 
Every  one  was  on  the  alert,  and  not  one  dare 
say  he  could  complacently  encounter  a  buffalo 
My  personal  mishaps  became  stupidly  frequent, 
succession  I  tumbled  into  three  deep  holes,  newly  excavated 
by  the  wart  hogs,  never  profiting  by  a  first  tumble  on 
account   of  the  tanofle  of  grrass  that  covered  them. 

Then  the  caravan  parted,  and  it  was  a  long  time  before 
the  stragglers  were  reunited,  one  of  the  porters  broke  his 
shin  bone,  another  had  a  chunk  of  flesh  gouged  out  of  his 
shoulder  through  a  tin  box  slipping  off  from  his  head  and 
cruelly  striking  him  in  its  tumble  ;  fever  prevailed,  and  for 
some  time  all  sorts  of  trying  incidents  flocked  unceasingly 
like  birds  of  ill  omen. 


USERI   HEAD 
ORNAMENT. 

In    quick 


3o6 


SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 


A    Masai  woman's     corpse  was     nosed  out     in    tlie    bush, 

with  all  her  armor  of  iron  wire  leglets  and  armlets  upon  her 

stark  stiff  body  untouched,   however    much    coveted,    through 

superstition.      Personally   I    nerved    myself    to  the    removal  of 

^,-.\\      her  leglets,  which  had  become  so  imbedded  into 

{iafc->-    >    ■  the    flesh    and    muscles    ot     her    legs,  amputation 

was  necessary.     Josefe  only  was  ready 
,,'  to    assist    me     to    perform    the    un- 
pleasant  business.       Certainly    I 
could    have   commanded    any    of 
■^^:  my    porters    to    attend    to     this 
matter,  but  they  were  possessed 
by    nameless    superstitions;    and 
such    an    exaction    on    my    part 
would    ha\e    put    a    damper    on 
their    exalted   estimation    of    me 
,'   for    so     outraging     their     senti- 
ments.     I    endeavored    to    main- 
tain a  policy    of   harmony   when 
consistent. 

M\  \i  II  MMi.'Ax.  Dail)'    the     temperature    was 

so  alterable  that  it  was  with  difficulty  the  porters  could  keep 
warm  at  night,  although  sweltering  under  the  direct  tropical 
rays  of  the  sun  in  the  noonda)-.  Towards  three  or  four 
o'clock  1'.  M.  the  hot  air  would  suddenly  ascend  to  the  moun- 
tain region,  and  be  displaced  by  a  rush  of  cold  air,  and  a 
constant    atmospheric    current    swept    over    the   country.      The 


w 
a; 
p 

u 


o 
z 

2 
w 

H 
Z 

w 


PRIMITIVE     KIMANGELIA. 


j^/ 


regularity  of  these  breezes  suggested  the  idea  that  windmills 
might  be  profitably  established,  which  could  be  used  for  irri- 
gation and  cistern  purposes.  Although  the  natives  have 
ingeniously  and  methodically  constructed  ditches  and  erected 
irrigation  troughs,  made  by  digging  out  tree  trunks,  with 
which  they  surround  their  plantations  on  the  top  of  some  of 
the  mountains,  and  on  all  sides  could  be  heard  the  purling 
of  the  water,  sometimes  hidden  beneath  the  vines  or  by  the 
dracaena  hedges  that  divided  the  plantations  by  lanes.  The 
recent  downfall  of  rain  had  converted  the  ground  of  these 
lanes  into  very  tenacious,  slippery  mud,  and  often  we  would 
sink  up  to  our  knees  in  a  black,  pudding-like  mixture,  and 
the  suction  offered  great  resistance  to  rapid  progress;  or 
in  descending  a  slight  slant  with  feet  together  every  one 
would  slide  down,  or  in  ascending  we  were  forced  to  cut 
foot-holes  and  clutch  frantically  to  the  shrubbery  to  ward 
against  backsliding,  and  avoid  being  washed  along  in  the 
resistless  current  of  an  unspent  swift  gush  of  gurgling  water 
that  would  bound  down  over  rocky  beds,  seeking  the  bottom 
of  the  cations,  or  leap  and  tumble  into  cascades  to  join 
swirling    rapids    seaward    bent. 

Tlie  moisture  which  rises  from  the  oround  at  nieht  makes 
a  singular  phosphorescent  mist,  which  carries  sufficient  dew 
to  bathe  and  nourish  all  vegetation  and,  in  fact,  the  land 
around,  to  bring  about  certain  results  which  are  almost 
phenomenal  considered  from  an  agricultural  point  of  view. 
It  is  from  these  heavy  dews  that  most  of  the  nous-iiiioas,  or 


;o8 


SULTAN    TO     SULTAN. 


Stone  reservoirs,  are  kept  supplied.  It  is  one  of  the  great  dis- 
advantages to  the  traveller  in  Africa,  subjecting  him  to  much 
discomfort  and  rendering  him  liable  to  fevers,  if  the  greatest 
care  is  not  observed  to  ward  against  the  insidious  dampness. 
The  moisture  causes  to  exhale  from  the  shrubs,  flowers,  and 
grasses    a    sweetish    odor,    which    at    times    becomes   stifling, 

and  it  is  no  uncommon  thing 
to  find  almost  every  man  in  a 
caravan  afflicted  with  asthma, 
and  as  he  marches  along  his 
snorting,  wheezino  breath  is 
very  perceptible. 

In  countries    of   such   a  cli- 
mate   the    usual    practice    sug- 
gested   by    all     good     military 
B    tacticians,  of  surrounding  a  tent 
with   a    ditch,    in    case   of   rain, 
MASAI  i:l-moka\.  is    a    great    mistake,    excepting 

when  absolutely  necessary.  Making  personal  observations  on 
this  point,  in  the  hope  of  ameliorating  my  personal  condi- 
tion,—  being  a  victim  to  chronic  asthma,  —  I  fountl  that  the 
newly  upturned  earth  at  night  would  emit  a  phosphorescent 
p^low  which  would  hano-  and  hover  about  the  little  trench  as 
it  reluctant  to  part  from  its  maternal  source  ;  and  all  sorts 
of  crawling  things  would  issue  forth  and  revel  in  the  un- 
healthy place.  Another  strange  manifestation  of  these  mists 
was  evidenced  in  passing  my  hands  through  the  thick,  wavy  veil 


PRIMITIVE     KIMANGELIA.  3O9 

and  rubbing  the  palms  together  in  a  dark  spot  removed  from 
the  trench,  they  would  glow  with  phosphorus  as  if  I  had 
dipped  them  in  fire  ;  and  when  one  of  the  porters  stepped 
out  of  these  trenches  he  would  leave  his  fiery  footprint  on  the 
solid  ground  for  some  minutes  after  walking  thereon.  Such  a 
miasmatic  condition  certainly  cannot  be  conducive  to  the  well- 
being  of  human  creatures.  I  have  also  seen  mists  in  Africa 
which  were  luminous  and  had  certain  powers  of  refracting  the 
rays  of  the  moon,  which  became  iridescent  and  full  of  prismatic 
sheets  and  gleams.  The  effect  was  very  much  like  a  terres- 
trial aurora  borealis,  and  the  foliage  would  stand  out  bright, 
glistening,  and  green,  as  if  the  sunlight  had  fallen  upon  them 
after  a  rain.  The  appearance  is  very  weird,  and  I  inferred  of 
common  occurrence,  as  none  of  the  men  in  the  caravan 
noted  it  with  any  degree  of  surprise,  which  would  indicate 
that  they  were  accustomed  to  it.  It  had  a  very  strange 
effect  upon  my  eyesight,  and  I  discovered  that  the  porters 
in  moving  about  at  night  would  always  hold  their  hands  over 
their  eyes,  as  one  naturally  does  to  avoid  the  sun's  glare. 
A  certain  amount  of  superstition  affixes  to  this  strange  mani- 
festation, which  perhaps  may  account  for  the  porters  reluctance 
to  speak  of  it,  and  I  only  noticed  it  in  Chaga  land,  and  not 
on  the  plains  or  in  the  jungle.  Sometimes  when  a  man 
would  come  rapidly  through  the  mist,  which  would  float  and 
settle  down  in  a  vacillating  way  without  any  apparent  reason, 
here  and  there  his  garments  would  be  illumed  with  spots  and 
flecks  of   the  phosphorescent   particles,    making    him    look    as 


lO 


SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 


if  clad  in  spangled  armor  ;  upon  observing  the  effect  upon 
his  own  garment,  he  would  shake  his  cloths  and  kanzii, 
causing  the  particles  to  dart  off  in  globules,  leaving  behind 
them  streaks  of  shimmering  light  through  the  air.  This  same 
mist  betrayed  me  into  numerous  absurdities  ;  for  at  first, 
not  realizing  how  vagrant  was  its  course,  and  seeing  strange 

lights  in  the  woods,  I  would  insist  on 
one  of  my  guards  accompanying  me 
ither  to  make  closer  observation, 
id  althougrh  I  would  find  something 
similar  to  a  will-o'-the-wisp,  it  was 
different,  inasmuch  as  the  light 
would  be  in  sheets.  Josefe,  who 
BUFFALO  BULL.  '^^  was  always  ready  for  a  game, 
once  placed  around  his  staff  a  wad  of  cotton,  which  he  took 
the  precaution  to  wet,  sallied  into  the  midst  of  one  of  these 
mists,  twirled  his  staff  about  as  if  to  accumulate  the  phospho- 
rescent qualities,  and  stood  out  in  the  clear,  dark  atmosphere 
whirling  his  staff  rapidly  around  until  it  displayed  a  succession 
of  fiery  circles  that  lasted  for  an  instant,  then  faded  into 
nothingness. 

Observations  made  by  me  in  East  Africa  at  night  were 
most  unusual  it  not  unique,  and  made  me  acquainted  with 
certain  peculiar  revelations  which  nature  seems  to  keep 
mysteriously  concealed  during  the  day.  Creeping  things, 
prowling  animals,  were  ever  on  the  alert  just  outside  of  the 
encampment,  deterred  from  coming   in  by  the  numerous  fires 


PRIMITIVE     KI.MANGELIA.  3II 

and  the  sentinels  on  watch.  One  night,  experiencing  great 
fatigue,  I  fell  in  a  profound  slumber  lying  in  my  Palanquin 
within  my  tent,  when  suddenly  I  awoke  with  a  shuddering 
apprehension  of  danger,  and  possessed  by  an  instinctive  feel- 
ing of  the  presence  of  some  harmful  thing ;  involuntarily 
seizing  my  knife  and  pistol  I  cried  out,  "Who  is  there?"  No 
answer.  Then  I  called  out  for  the  askaid  on  guard,  at  the 
same  time  tried  to  penetrate  the  darkness  surrounding  me, 
when  I  became  aware,  through  the  atmospheric  conditions, 
that  a  cold,  clammy,  moving  object  was  above  me,  in  truth 
almost  touching  me,  on  the  top  of  my  Palanquin,  the  rattans 
of  which  were  cracking  as  if  under  the  pressure  of  a  mangle. 
I  was  struggling  to  slide  out  of  the  Palanquin  without  rising 
from  my  recumbent  position  to  avoid  touching  the  thing,  when 
the  alarmed  askari  entered,  carrying  a  lantern,  to  my  abject 
horror  revealing  to  me  the  object  I  had  intuitively  dreaded. 
My  blood  fairly  seemed  to  congeal  in  my  veins  at  the  spectacle : 
it  was  an  enormous  python,  about  fifteen  feet  long,  which  had 
coiled  around  the  top  of  the  Palanquin,  and  at  that  moment 
was  ramping  and  thrusting  its  head  out,  searching  for  some 
attainable  projection  around  which  to  coil  its  great,  shiny, 
loathsome  length  of  body.  Seeing  the  python,  the  askari 
immediately  yelled  wildly  out  for  help,  and  in  a  moment,  a 
dozen  stalwart  porters  pitched  in  a  merciless  way  with  their 
knives  upon  the  reptile,  slashing  and  cutting  its  writhing 
body  into  inch  bits.  I  am  not  ashamed  to  confess  it  was 
the    supreme    fear    of    my    life,   and   almost    paralyzed    me.      I 


312 


SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 


came   very  near   collapsing-   and    relinquishing   myself    to    the 
nervous  shock;  but  there  was  no  time  for  such  an  indulgence 


PALANQUIN    AND    PYTHON. 


of  weakness ;  there  were  other  sequences  to  be  considered. 
However,  during  my  safari  in  East  Africa,  I  only  saw  one 
other  live  python,  wrestling  inconsequently  with  all  of  its  might 


PRIMITI\'E     KIMANGEI.IA. 


with  one  of  the  invincible  dead  giants  of  the  forest,  without 
any  visible  success,  as  the  majestic,  unyielding  tree  gave  no 
evidence  of  weakness  under  the  pressing  coils  of  the  mad- 
dened monster,  which  was  being  overtaken  by  the  realization 
that  all  was  futile,  and  in  the  end  it  must  be 
thwarted  and  admit  defeat. 

We     encountered    some    small    water    and     , 


land    serpents,    a    few    puff   adders,    but   with  ^'gV^Sp 


few  exceptions  were  never  molested,  barring  ^v'  -^|* 
the  fact  that  occasionally  we  missed  a  goat  ^f&Up.&'A 
or    sheep,    and    they    might    have    been   the 
prey  of   audacious  hyenas  and  jackals,  onl)' 
for    the    reason    that  we    heard    no    commo- 
tion    in     the    temporary    sheds    where    the 
animals  were   stalled,  which  indicated  the 
work  of   reptile    garroters. 

Reaching  Klmangelia  on  the  plains,  ' 
the  natives  swarmed  down  from  the  moun- 
tain fastness  and  urged  us  to  visit  their 
mountain  village,  previously  never  entered  by  niziuiga. 
Difficulties  arose  ;  there  was  no  cut  or  road  through  the  forest 
environments  ;  the  porters  could  not  force  a  way  through. 
This  was  soon  overcome,  the)'  assisted  cutting  a  way  through 
the  gigantic  trees,  and  as  we  plunged  into  the  depths  of  a 
foliage-twilighted  thicket,  the  hippopotamuses  grunted  and 
shambled  awa)\  disturbed  for  the  first  time  by  a  paleface 
or  the  commotion  of   a  caravan. 


CHACA    CHAIN    FILET. 


314 


SULTAN    TO    SULTAN. 


The  sultan  was  a  victim  to  his  own  debaucheries,  and  was 
paralyzed  and  unable  to  meet  or  personally  welcome  Bebe 
Bwana,  but  he  had  placed  at  my  disposal  his  great  circular 
palaver  grounds  cleared  in  the  centre  of  a  primeval  forest,  and 
overlooking  Masai  land  on  the  north  and  the  lonof  stretch  of 


CAMPING    GROUND,    KIMANGELIA. 

country   we    had     passed    over,  and  beyond,    overhead,    grand 
Kilimanjaro. 

Their  habits  and  customs,  in  matters  of  dress,  superstition, 
marriage,  rites,  fetes,  and  pursuits  were  a  cross  between  the 
Chaga  people  and  the  Masai.  At  that  particular  time  they 
were  disturbed,  not  knowing  whether  the  Germans  or  Encrlish 


PRIMITIVE     KIMANGELIA.  3  I  5 

were  going  to  claim  them,  and  inclined  towards  the  English, 
having  been  prejudiced  against  the  Germans  by  the  accounts 
given  by  the  Masai. 

In  consequence  of  the  cold  blasts  which  swept  down  from 
Kilimanjaro,  the  women  wore,  as  do  the  Masai  women,  cow- 
hides around  their  waists  and  over  their  shoulders,  and  the 
great  masses  of  iron  and  brass  coils  about  their  necks,  arms, 
and  legs  that  the  Masai  do.  Their  plantations  are  thrifty, 
and  their  /u/idi's  do 
splendid  chain 
work ;  live  stock ' 
was  kept  very  scarce 
by  the  Masai.  Honey  anc 
poinbc  were  almost  poured  down 
upon  us ;  and  the  heads  of  the  tribe  chaga  snuff  box. 
ordered  dances,  and  as  the  moon  shone,  ventured  to  sally  from 
their  huts  and  pay  nighdy  visits  to  the  encampment.  Greek 
fire  delighted  them,  and  a  volley  of  musketry  gave  them  a 
foretaste  of  real  paradise.  As  usual,  a  full-dress  reception 
was  in  vogue ;  their  admiration  surpassed  anything  of  the 
kind  I  had  ever  been  the  recipient  of.  And  as  for  the  itiusic 
box,  they  wagged  their  heads  and  addressed  barbaric  prayers, 
called  it  n^^ai,  and  called  me  ugai,  their  equivalant  for  God, 
as  in  fact  everything  mysterious  is  to    them,    ngai. 

Masai  women  flocked  to  see  me,  and  secret  messengers 
were  sent  to  ask  Bebe  Bwana  to  visit  a  certain  village  not 
remote.     The  import  cf  this  was  to  say  that  I  would  accom- 


i6 


SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 


pany  them  alone  about  a  distance  not  exceeding  five  miles, 
I  would  be  shown  something  that  no  7nztcnga  had  ever  seen. 
These  envoys  were  not  of  Kimangelia,  but  from  another  tribe. 
W^hilst  a  couple  of  guests  I  had  for  a  short  time  with  me  were 
indulging  in  an  afternoon  nap,  I  accompanied  the  natives, 
escorted  by  Josefe  and  Hamidi.  Arriving  at  the  place  of 
destination,  with  a  display  of  great   secrecy  I  was   shown    by 

the    chief,  after  all 
but    two    of   his 
own    attendants 
had    been    dis- 
missed,   a    stone 
spear-head,  the    ex- 
act size  and  shape  of  a 
Masai  spear,  which  was  kejDt 
secretly  buried  and   unknown 

CHAIN    AND    BEAD    GIRDLE.  ^^    ^^^  ^^^    ^^^^    ^J^^    ^l^J^f    ^^J 

two  or  three  of  his  confidants,  including  his  prime  minister, 
and  which  he  told  me  passed  in  line  of  descent  from  chief 
to  son  for  decades.  I  asked  him  how  long  it  had  been  in 
the  possession  of  his  tribe.  "  Since  the  sun  made  day  and 
the  moon  lig-hted  the  nigrht." 

"Was  it  before  Kilimanjaro  spit  fire?" 

"  Oh,  long  before  that,"  he  replied,  "  when  the  streams 
run  fire." 

He  begged  me  not  to  reveal  the  place  of  concealment,  or 
the  name  of  his  province  or  his  tribe,  as  he  said  the  "  Dutch" 


Q 
Z 

D 

O 

< 


O 

u 


PRIMITIVE     KIMAXGELIA.  3  I  7 

would  take  it  from  him.     It  illustrated  a  very  important  point 
in  the  history  of  the  origin  of  these  people. 

Another  day,  quite  inadvertentl)',  while  my  men  were  halted 
eating,  smoking,  singing,  and  talking  at  the  top  of  their  voices, 
according  to  ni)'  habit  I  was  strolling  about  hard  by  to  get 
away  from  the  din  and  confusion,  seeing  what  I  could  discover 
or  taking  photographs ;  after  reaching  a  point  about  half  a 
mile  from  my  caravan,  I  stepped 
what  seemed  a  firm  surface  and 
tumbled  amidst  a  perfect  screen 
of  vines  and  shrubbery  into  a 
cave.  I  brought  away  pieces  of 
the  stone  which  made  the  body 
of  the  cave,  and  a  small  piece  of  a 
stone  mortar  which  I  unearthed,  fo 
it  stood  in  one  corner  concealed  by 
cover  of  moss  and  lichens,  so  long  had  metal  bead  necklace. 
it  been  undisturbed.  The  cave  was  an  irregular  oven  shape ; 
part  had  been  artificially  made  and  part  was  a  natural  cave,  and 
it  undermined  the  surface  of  the  earth  above  it,  which  came 
over  sharp  to  the  edge,  wherefrom  the  vines  fell  as  a  pent 
and  down  to  the  ground,  trailing  in  long  lengths  be)-ond  and 
obscuring  the  entrance.  It  was  about  four  feet  square  and  five 
and  a  half  in  height,  and  evidently  had  been  a  smith's  workshop, 
a  primitive  vulcan's  forge.  There  were  several  stones  standing 
up  against  the  wall,  upon  the  floor,  which  seemed  to  have 
served  as  forms  to  work  upon,  and  what  must  have  been  used 


i8 


SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 


as  an  an\il  bore  the  abrasions  caused  by  wieldincr  heavy  blows 
that  spent  their  extra  force  upon  the  stone  and  -was  much 
discolored  with  smoke.  jealous  of  my  discovery,  and  eager 
not  to  be  surprised  by  my  porters  in  this  cave,  I  hastily  with- 
drew, fully  intending  some  clay  to  make  fuller  investigation, 
as  well  as  to  search  elsewhere  for  similar  evidences  of  the 
Stone  Age  or  of  the  Cave  Dwellers.  Just  here  allow  me  to 
digress  and  call  attention  to  the  excavations  at  the  foot  of 
the  hill  upon  which  Mandara's  boma  is  founded,  and  which  I 
subsequently  entered  only  to  be  summoned  back  without  time 
to  make  a  full  investigation  by  the  warning  of  my  headman 
who  stated  it  was  a  death's  trap  to  be  shunned. 


MASAI. 


319 


CHAPTER   XV. 

MASAI. 


LUSTERERS    that    the    Masai    are, 

they  cannot  be  seriously  looked  upon 

as    true    warriors,     or    as    possessing 

real   bravery ;   but    rather    as    African 

Jack    Shepherds.       Their    vocation   is 

cattle  stealine,   freebootine,  and  raid- 
er o 

%^  ing  their  neighbors,  after  terrorizing 
y,  them  by  their  merciless  onslaught. 
With  theatrical  make-up  and  hostile 
manner,  they  succeed  in  creating  a  panic  wherever  they  list  to 
carry  a  high  hand,  not  only  in  the  hearts  of  natives,  but  by 
compelling  Germans  and  English  to  defence,  and  are  soon 
put    to    rout    by   gunpowder. 

They  recognize  no  law  but  capture  and  victory.  They  have 
frequently  attacked  the  arcadian  Wa-Taveta  with  a  fierce 
hatred,  although  the  W^a-Taveta  are  deputed  to  have  descended 
from  the  Masai. 

They  will  not  work;  they  have  not  the  pride  of  tlie  Wa- 
Chaga  in  forging  their  own  spears,  but  depend  upon  the 
vulcans  of  Chaga  for  their  fine  Aveapons  and  almost  all  of  their 


320  SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 

metal  work.  Donkey  breeding  seems  to  be  their  only  legiti- 
mate labor.  They  make  demands  upon  the  services  of  the 
Wandurobo,  a  semi-subject  nomadic  tribe,  which,  although 
servile  and  subjugated  by  the  Masai,  is  not  actually  in  slavery. 
They  hunt  and  engage  in  agricultural  pursuits  only  to  the 
extent  of  barely  supplying  necessities  which  the  Masai  cannot 
loot  from  other  tribes,  who,  in  return,  give  the  Wandurobo  their 
protection,  and  secure  to  them  an  immunity  from  their  own 
persecution.  These  people  are  most  insignificant  in  appear- 
ance, low  of  stature,  almost  dwarf.  "  Du- 
robo"  signifies  stumpy.  Among  those 
we  met  there  was  no  man  who  attained 
a  height  of  over  four  feet  and 
a  few  inches,  and  some  were 
considerably  shorter. 

ARMOR    FOR    NECK.  Jl^^    ^J^^^j    j^^^.g    ^    ^^,^;^^   ^^.^^. 

of  forbidding  passage  through  their  territory.  They  place  in 
the  middle  of  a  path  likely  to  be  traversed  by  an  individual 
or  a  caravan,  a  bullet,  over  which  they  cross  two  twigs 
stripped  of  foliage,  with  the  exception  of  a  tassellccl  brush 
at  the  top.  The  first  person  trespassing  beyond  this  barrier 
is  usually  speared  or  shot  without  hesitation  by  some  warder 
who  is  in  ambush.  Not  knowing  of  this  custom,  inadver- 
tently coming  to  such  a  forbiddance,  I  kicked  it  aside.  In 
consternation  one  oi  my  headmen  sprang  forward,  urging 
me  to  pause  if  I  valued  my  life,  for  the  moment  I  put  foot 
beyond     that     point     1     most     likely    would     be    assassinated. 


MASAI. 


321 


Before  he  had  conckided  his  words  of  warPxing,   about  thirty 

Masai  warriors  abruptly  made  their  appearance  in  a  great  state 

of  agitation,  with    uphfted    spears,   frantically   gesticulating,   as 

they  ordered  us  to  halt,  and  demanded  from  me  the  payment 

of   a   large   amount  of   hongo   for  the   depredation  committed. 

Every  porter  in  my  caravan  was  terror-stricken  and  quite  ready 

to  drop  his  load  and  take   to  his  heels.     However,  the  fierce 

Masai  were    soon    appeased  with   a   few    lumps   of  bluestone, 

which  they  prize  as  highly  as  they 

do    donkeys    or    cattle.       These 

were  given  as  a  present,  and 

not    admittedly    as  a  penalty, 

for  I   felt    to    recognize,  even 

in   such  a  slight  matter,  their 

arbitrary  right  in   prohibiting  a 

passage  through  a  tract  of  country 

not    actually    theirs,    might    in    the 

end    result    disastrously    not    only    to    myself,    but    to    other 

caravan   leaders    who   might    follow. 

Their  costumes  and  habits  have  the  most  distinctive 
personality  of  all  the  tribes  I  met.  The  women  paint  their 
faces  with  white  and  red  splotches,  and  often  wear  a  close- 
fitting  cowhide  hood,  embellished  on  the  margins  with  iron 
and  blue  or  green  glass  rings,  which  covers  their  foreheads  and 
chins,  exposing  their  ears  with  their  heavy  brass  Catherine 
wheel  ear  rings,  and  falls  down  over  the  back  ot  their  heads 
upon    their    necks    and    shoulders,    beneath    their    ponderous 


MASAI    BRASS    BRACELET. 


322  SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 

brass  or  iron  coil  collars.  They  present  a  most  hideous 
appearance.  The  men,  also,  indulge,  upon  occasions  more 
or  less  frivolous,  in  paint,  decorating  their  bodies  by  daubing 
on  masses  of  color. 

The  women  are  not  well  made,  and  are  far  from  being 
up  to  the  standard  of  physical  comeliness  of  the  women  of 
other  tribes,  but  rather  taller,  even  more  so  than  the  men. 
They  wear  quantities  of  ponderous  iron  coils  like  greaves 
about  their  legs  and  also  their  arms,  weighing  as  much  as 
fifty  pounds.  These  are  placed  on  before  the  bones  and 
muscles  have  attained  full  growth,  and  naturally  the  enormous 
weight  and  constant  pressure  of  the  ponderous  metal  orna- 
ments retard  the  normal  development  alike  of  bones,  muscles, 
and  flesh,  hence  the  women  are  angular,  lank,  sinewy,  and 
yet  fleet  as  deer,  and  very  strong. 

Grass  used  as  a  truce  with  the  Masai  is  more  general 
than  with  other  tribes,  possibly  on  account  of  the  exigencies 
which  are  the  outcome  of  their  belligerent  habits ;  and 
an  essential  part  of  the  attire  of  the  Masai  women,  who  act 
as  purveyors  between  tribes,  and  move  about  generally 
unmolested  among  even  hostile  tribes,  seems  to  be  a  bunch 
of  grass,  which  they  fasten  to  their  cowhide  belts,  or  tie 
to  some  of  their  iron  coils,  in  order  to  have  convenient 
when  as  occasion  arises,  wherewith  to  manifest  amity.  It 
is  one  of  the  most  significant  and  delicate  symbols  univer- 
sally recognized  through  Chaga  land,  to  ignore  which  must 
naturally  curtail  any  traveller's  opportunities  to  see  and  to  be 


< 

u 


MASAI. 


trustingly  welcomed ;  the  adoption  of  which  proved  most 
serviceable  to  me  at  almost  every  turn,  for  frequently  I  stepped 
apart  from  my  caravan  to  parley  with  natives,  holding  in  my 
hands  and  extending  towards  them  a  bunch  of  grass  without 
any  flowers  intermingled,  always  to  meet  with  a  genuine  wel- 
come, albeit  the  natives  might  have  at  first  evinced  a  measure 
of  suspicion  and  over-caution,  if  indeed  they  were  not  abso- 
lutely  inimical.     When    several  Masai  women  approached  me 

with  their  upheld 
hands  f u  1 1  of 
grass,  clutching 
in  the  middle 
the  stems,  which 
were  turned  from 
both  sides  tow- 
ard the  centre, 
and    the     heads 

MASAI  WOMEN  CALLERS.  of  the  g^rass  wav- 

es 

ing  outward,  I  thought  it  one  of  the  daintiest  exhibitions  of 
symbolical  friendliness  I  had  ever  witnessed.  Grass  is  like- 
wise used  as  a  prayer  for  mercy  when  an  offence  has  been 
committed.  Anon,  when  the  cross-paths  are  perplexing  and 
a  leader  desires  to  forfend  against  the  chance  of  his  caravan 
going   astray,    grass    is    thrown    across  the    divergent    path. 

The  Masai  also  use  salt  stone,  cliumvi,  and  tobacco  stone 
as  peace  offerings.  I  brought  back  with  me  quite  a  quantity 
of  both  sorts,  which  had  been  presented  to  me  at  various  times, 


324  SULTAN    TO     SULTAN. 

and  have  had  diem  analyzed  at  the  Royal  College  of  Science, 
London,  through  the  joint  courtesy  of  Professor  Judd  and 
Professor  T.  E.  Thorpe,  February  22,    1S92. 

Analysis   of  Salt  Stone. 

Carbon  dioxide 3947 

Soda  (Nag.°) 39.95 

Ferric  oxide 1.59 

Common  salt A  trace. 

Water 18.99 

100.00 

Salt    stone    is    simply    a  hydrated  sesquicarbonate    of  soda 

or  fona  (2  Na,  O3W3432   O),  containing  a  trace  of  common 

salt  and  oxide  of  iron. 

(Signed)  T.  E.  Thorpe. 

Analysis  of  Tobacco  Stone. 

Soda  (Nag.°) 29.92 

Carbon  dioxide 30.48 

Magnesia 2.28 

Lime 1.52 

Alumina  and  ferric  oxide 1.97 

Chlorine 1.S3 

Water 15 -3' 

Clay 16.69 

100.00 
The  substance  is  mainly  fona,  or  hydrated    sesquicarbonate 
of  soda  mixed  with    the   carbonate  of   lime    and    magnesia,  a 
trace  of  common  salt  and  clay. 

(Signed)  T.  E.  Thorpe. 


MASAI. 


325 


Tobacco  stone  they  mix  with  tlieir  tobacco  and  snuft  ;  it 
is  also  ad\antageously  bartered  to  caravans  for  the  same 
purpose.  Salt  stone,  called  c/iituii'i,  is  not  a  bad  substitute 
for  pure  salt ;  however,  pure  salt  is  abundant  throughout 
portions  of  Masai  land,  and  man)'  contests  and 
battles  have  grown  out  of  the  fact  that 
various  other  tribes  have  been  dis 
covered  by  the  Masai  in  the  act  of 
looting  their  salt  fields.  Some  of 
the    lagoons    or    pools    are    decid 


edlv  brackish,   and   an   incrustation    \    ,  _ 

^"^'  \\ 
of     salt,     caused     by     evaporation    ^^* 

forms  on  the  surface  of  the  stones  V^-*^- 


about     the     water's     edge.       Th 

1  .1  .  f  ^ 

renders    the    water    01     numerous  -^^  -. 

pools    unfit    to    drink.        The    wild    ^'^ 

animals     naturally    seek    the    water      '^^^ 

ways    and    the    salt    fields,    and    can 

be   readily  tracked  by  hunters    to  theii 

lairs,   as  well    as    reveal  to    the  observ-         "''''  "'^^  "'''''• 

ant    individual    where    to    find    both    water    and    salt. 

A   Masai  woman's  regulation  dress   consists  of  four   metal 

spiral    coils    for    the   legs,     four    similar    coils    for    the    arms, 

and  a  metal   coil    collar    supplemented    by   brass    and    pewter 

collars    or    necklets    representing    an    average   weight   of   forty 

to  fifty  pounds,   to    which    is   added    several   pounds    in    metal 

and  other  beads.       Usually   they   wear    a    cowhide  as  a  skirt, 


326 


SULTAN    TO     SULTAN. 


and  a  second  one  as  a  cloak  over  their  shoulders  ;  even  some- 
times disport  for  this  purpose  fine  Hyrax  furs,  monkey  and 
goat  skins,  and  sheep  fleeces  to  protect  themselves  against 
the    diurnal    winds.       Their    shrewdness    has    been    developed 


VULTURE    FEATHER    KL'FF,     PART    OF    MASAI    WAR    UNIFORM. 

in  a  marked  degree.  Doubtless  this  is  due  to  the  fact  that 
the  men,  with  their  freebooter  propensities,  are  constantly 
embroiled  with  other  tribes  and  luiropeans.  However,  whilst 
war  is  proceeding,  the  women   have  free,  unmolested  access  be- 


MASAI.  327 

tween  the  combatants,  and  constitute  the  bearers  of  despatches 
as  well  as  are  the  purveyors,  unless  the  attack  is  to  capture 
women  and  children  to  sell  to  slave  dealers  to  transport  to 
the  coast,  when  the  traditional  neutrality  for  woman  is  totally 
disregarded.  And  I  heard  many  pitiful  tales  of  such  captures. 
The  Masai  men  frequently  sell  their  own  women  into  captivity, 
or  barter  them  awa)-,  which  is  the  equivalent.  The  men  are 
exceedingly  crafty  and  are  great  braggarts,  indulging  in  bluster 
and  threats  that  can  be  put  to  rout  by  fearless  use  of  the  same 
measures  by  one  conversant  with  their  characteristics ;  totally 
deficient  in  any  tender  traits,  never  exhibiting  any  signs  of 
affection,  and  keep  their  women  under  foot.  They  are  laugh- 
terless,  mirthless,  having  no  songs  but  those  of  war.  They 
are  die  heavy  tragedians  of  Africa,  full  of  theatrical  display 
in  manner  and  personal  get  up.  When  a  plain  intervenes 
between  the  Masai  occupancy  and  other  provinces,  contention 
occurs  over  the  pasturage  nature  so  abundantly  provides, 
which  is  above  the  necessity  ot  cultivation,  and  coveted  by 
those  who  are  too  indolent  or  possess  no  ambition  to  indulge 
in  a  pastoral,  peaceful  lite.  For  some  unknown  reason  the 
Masai  lay  claim  upon  all  the  land  and  all  of  its  products, 
wherever  they  list  to  set  foot.  They  are  most  brutal  and 
more  licentious  than  the  Chaga  mountaineers.  Prompted  by 
sheer  wantonness,  they  capture  women  from  tribes  the)-  have 
accepted  truce  with,  to  bestow  as  a  mark  of  favoritism  if  not 
to  sell  as  slaves  upon  some  of  their  comrades  or  subjects 
when    they    have    personally    wearied    of    the    poor    creatures. 


SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 


Their  numbers  and  overruling  spirit  of  despotism  and  cruelty 
put  fear  into  the  hearts  of  all  lesser  tribes  within  the  radius 
of  their  excursive  periodic  raids.  However,  the)-  have  met 
their  match  in  the  Germans,  and  must  either 
accept  subjugation  or  stand  a  chance  of 
being  annihilated. 

Contrary  to  most  of  the  other  tribes  I 
met,  who  live  as  a  rule  upon  vegetable  and 
fish  diet,  the  Masai  are  meat  eaters,  and  will 
pounce  upon  an  animal  yet  in  the  throes  of 
leath  when  being  slaughtered,  and  hack  chunks 
of  flesh  out  of  its  quivering  bod)-,  and  devour 
raw,  or  cut  the  throats  of  cattle  and  drink  the 
hot  flowine  blood.  When  meat  is  scarce  and 
the)-  are  about  to  enter  battle,  they  go  so  far 
as  to  make  an  incision  in  their  own  arms  and 
suck  the  blood.  With  all  this  there  is  no  trace, 
no  tradition,  that  they  have  ever  been  addicted 
to  cannibalism  pure  and  simple.  I  partook  ot 
blood  brotherhood  with  them  when  a  white  goat 
was  the  sacrificed  bond.  The)'  engage  in  no 
industries,  have  no    avocation  but  fighting. 

Masai    warriors    were     sent    in    deputations    to 

MASAI 

NECKLACE,  wam  me  of  the  belligerent,  disturbed  condition  of 
their  territor)',  and  I  was  afforded  the  extraordinary  oppor- 
tunity of  seeing  over  one  thousand  Masai  armed  and  ready 
to  enter    battle,  having  as    an    objective    point    Arusha-jue    in 


MASAI. 


329 


the  German  territory  which  they  had  but  recently  been  forced 
to  evacuate  by  the  Germans.  The  sight  was  certainly  a 
magnificent  spectacle,  equipped,  armed,  and  adorned  with 
their  picturesque  paraphernalia,  faces  daubed  with  paint, 
splendid  masks  matle  of  masses  of  ostrich  and  vulture 
feathers,  plumed  at  the  top  with  fine  sweeping  feathers,  lions' 
manes,  and  white  bits  of  Colobus  monkey  hair;  huge  vulture 
feather  rufis  about  their  necks,  and  even  encircling  their 
faces,  and  enormous  feather 
panniers  around  their  thighs; 
here  and  there  a  warrior  with 
an  entire  Colobus  monkey-skin, 
slit  in  the  centre,  through 
which  he  had  thrust  his  head, 
and  the  tail  and  long  hair  blow- 
ing- straight  out  in  the  wind; 
from  his  shoulders  wildly  floated 
in  the  breezes  a  ncbara  made  ^'asai  nebara,  white  and  red  cotton. 
of  stripes  or  figured  red  and  white  cotton  cloth,  and  a  long 
hyena  tail  decorated  with  a  lion's  mane,  and  Colobus  monkey 
tails  swinging  from  his  shoulders  as  an  emblem  of  war, — 
forsooth  the  African  shoulder  chip !  About  the  warriors 
waists  was  strapped  goats'  hides,  into  which  they  thrust  their 
knives ;  below  their  knees,  and  over  long  oval  iron  bells  a 
strip  of  Colobus  monkey-skin,  with  the  long  white  hair  stand- 
ing straight  out  like  a  pennant,  and  similar  adornments  on 
their    ankles ;    and    the    leaders    wore     strapped    across    their 


SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 


shoulders  a  leather  quiver,  containing  a  supply  of  ostrich 
feathers  to  refurbish  their  masks :  they  all  carried  a  long 
fine  Masai  spear,  which  they  never  throw  like  Asagai,  but  run 
antl  thrust  at  their  victims,  always  retaining  the  weapon  in 
their  gras]) ;  and  use  to  parr)'  blows  splendid 
cowhide  elliptical  shields  from  three  to  four 
feet  high  and  a  foot  and  a  half  broad, 
embellished  with  archaic  designs  ■  some- 
what varied,  but  the  colors  em- 
ployed are  invariably   white, 


^T  dark  red,  and  black. 
The  bells  jangle  as 
the  yelling,  fierce  men 
dash  and  manoeuvre. 
With  all  their  ferocity 
there  is,  as  I  hax^e  said, 
a  great  deal  of  sham 
and  bluster  about  the  Masai.  Al- 
though considered  the  bog)-men  of  Africa,  I  am  of  the 
opinion  that  any  leader  of  nerve  and  self-possession  need 
have  no  fear  when  the)'  threaten  an  immediate  attack.  A 
warrior,  hideously  bedecked  in  his  war  paint  and  war  tog- 
gery, having  heard  that  I  refused  to  pa\'  Invigo  to  the 
Masai  who  tried  to  e.xact  it  from  me  whilst  at  Kimangelia, 
and  not  in  Masai  land,  came  rushing  up  to  me  brandish- 
ing his  spear  violently,  then  uplifted  It  as  though  he  aimed 
to  cleave  me  in  two,    plantetl    it    into    the   ground  before  me, 


< 


MASAI. 


331 


yelled  in  a  deafening  tone  as  he  bounded  high  in  the  air, 
"Wow!  wow!  wow!"  Quick  as  a  llash,  I  reached  behind  me 
and  seized  my  gun,  rushed  forward  with  it,  pointing  the 
muzzle  towards  him,  and  in  tium  j-elled,  "Wow!  wow!  wow!" 
discharging  it  in  the  air.  Suffice  it  to  contess,  [  own  that 
spear.  It  was  never  called  for. 
It  cannot  be  denomi- 
nated as  either  a  gift, 
or  a  find,  or  a  cap- 
ture. 

At  this  moment  1 
became  greatly  excited 
in  my  desire  to  take  photo- 
graphs, and  betrayed  myself  into 
a  ridiculous  situation.  From  a  lurking 
place  where  I  sought  to  evade  observa- 
tion, for  more  than  all  other  tribes  the 
Masai  have  a  dread  of  a  camera,  sud- 
denly a  large  body  of  warriors,  all  accoutred,  passed  in 
full  view.  Impulsively  I  turned,  seized  what  I  presumed 
was  my  camera,  pulled  oft  the  supposed  cap,  and  lo  and 
behold  !  it  was  tlie  stopper  of  my  water  bottle !  I  was  per- 
fectly deluged  with  the  contents,  and  the  only  picture  I  could 
claim    was    an    aquarelle.       So    much    for    blind    zeal ! 

Spitting  on  gifts  and  upon  faces  and  at  people  is  carried  to 
a  great  pass  among  the  jNIasai.  They  are  polygamists  ;  their 
religion    is    fetish.      They    indulge    copiously    in     the    wassail 


MASAI    WO^rEN. 


SULTAN     TO    SULTAN. 


bowl,  however;  intoxicated  or  otherwise  they  are  aggressive, 
quarrelsome  belligerents,  quite  in  contrast  to  their  arcadian 
neighbors.  Their  leatures  m-e  not  specially  negroid,  and 
their  color  is  variable ;  hands  and  feet  small.  But  on  the 
■whole  rather  an  impossible,  barbaric  people  to  effect  mucii  b)' 
way  of  civilization  upon,  for  a  long  time  to  come,  meanwhile 
they  may  be  annihilated. 

Masai  women  have  not  the  privileges  or  rights  that   exist 

among  the  more  pas- 
toral tribes,  ex- 
cept   as    spies 
and  purveyors. 
They  own    no 
proj^ert)'  what- 
ever,     where- 
MASAi  liiiAss  COLLAR.  as    the    Chaga    and 

Taveta  women  hold  and  keep  their  own  propert)'  ami  may 
acquire  more.  So  disregarded  are  women,  that  in  some 
Masai  districts  five  large  pigeon  eggs,  blue  or  white,  green 
or  amber  colored  glass  beads  will  purchase  a  woman,  whereas 
it  takes  ten  of  the  same  beads  to  purchase  a  cow !  They 
milk  cows  and  goats  in  the  dark.  They  avoid  catching  the 
last  glance  of  a  dying  person's  eye,  alleging  that,  it  they  do, 
after  death  the  spirit  of  the  departed  will  hold  the  un- 
fortunate victim  under  a  spell  for  evermore. 

My  full-dress  reception,  among  the  Masai,  came  very  near 
attaining  the  proportions  of  a  calamity,  as  it  incited  some  of  the 


MASAI.  333 

audacious  young-  warriors  with  a  desire  to  carry  me  off,  and  they 
had  made  a  plan  which  was  secretly  imparted  to  me  by  a  Masai 
woman,  who  hail  taken  a  ijreat  likinsf  to  me.  Hence  the  little 
unpleasantness  was  averted  in  good  time.  The  annexation 
was  not  effected. 

The  greetings  and  salutations  are  somewhat  more  poetic 
than  that  of  other  tribes.  A  niziinga  is  met,  a  woman  cries  out, 
"  Good  morninor,  son  of  a  good  mother,  father  ol  orood  sons"; 
and  to  me  they  said,  "  Good  morning,  mother  of  good  sons." 

All  the  Wa-Chaga  have  a  poetic  way  of  measuring  time. 
When  they  speak  of  noon  it  is,  "  When  the  sun  is  as  a 
brother,"  meaning  thera  is  no  shadow ;  morningr  is,  "  when 
sun  flies  as  an  arrow  to  there,"  pointing  over  head,  and  when 
the  sun  is  sinkin"'  and  one  walks  towards  it,  it  is  designated 
as  "  an  enemy  skulking  at  one's  heels."  All  tribes  mark 
time  by  pointing  when  the  sun  shall  have  or  has  reached  a 
certain  part  oi  the  heaven.  A  messenger  replied  to  mj' 
demand  to  know  how  soon  we  should  reach  a  certain  point, 
"  To-morrow  and  the  to-morrow  of  to-morrow  and  the  night 
of  another  morrow  you  will  get  there." 


334 


SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 


CHAPTER    XVI. 

HEROIC  HAMIDI  AND  OTHERS. 

^EPARA  HAMIDI  BIN  ALI,  my  head- 
man of  headmen,  a  freeman,  born,  I 
believe,  at  Pemba  Island,  near  Zanzibar, 
a  Mohammedan,  endowed  with  amaz- 
ing attributes  of  refinement  and  in- 
telligence, upright,  strict,  possessed 
of  just  the  right  order  of  qualities  to 
manage  the  affairs  reposed  in  him,  a 
man  who  never  shirked  duty  or  dan- 
ger, whereas  he  never  injudiciously 
courted  the  latter.  The  Sultan  of  Zanzibar  particularly  recom- 
mended this  man  to  me  as  faithful  anel  far  above  the  averagfe 
headmen.  He  had  by  his  thrift  accumulated  considerable 
wealth,  and  was  generally  accounted  to  be  among  the  Zanzi- 
baris  a  mzai,  or  wise  man,  a  hiur^ia,  or  master.  Although  I 
made  a  rule  not  to  commit  even  to  Hamidi  my  real  object  in 
visiting  Africa,  other  than  the  safari  was  destined  for  Masai 
land,  I  was  obliged  every  night  or  every  morning  to  inform 
him  what  I  aimed  to  accomplish  during  the  next  twenty-four 
hours,    in   order  to  secure    harmony   in   the   caravan  and   have 


-f-»s,-."  - 


HEROIC    IIAMIDI    AND    OTHERS.  335 

him  second  my  orders,  and    he  could  distribute  these  orders  as 
he  saw  fit  to  the  subordinate  headmen  and  all  of  the  porters. 

I  had  many  evidences  of  his  pronounced  tact  ami  admirable 
manaeement  of  Zanzibaris,  and  found  him  most  obedient  to  my 
slightest  wish,  until  we  were  in  Masai  land,  when,  to  my  sur- 
prise, after  saying,  "  Hamidi,  to-morrow  we  will  make  such  and 
such  a  safari  beyond  the  frontier,"  in  a  measure  simply  to  feel 
m)'  wa\-  and  see  if  he  had  heeded  certain  rumors 
bruited  about  respecting  the  turbulent  state  '^ 
in  which  the  Masai  then  were,  he  turned 
and  said,  "  Bebe  Bwana,  I  will  not  conduct 
you    thither ;    the    danger  is  too  great." 

"  Then,    Hamidi,    do    )-ou  mean  to  say  that  ^^ 
you  disobey  my  orders  ?  " 

He  turned  round  and  faced  me,  looking 
square  into  my  eyes  without  hesitation,  and  .masai  mask. 
replied,  "  Bebe  Bwana,  I  swore  to  the  Sultan  of  Zanzibar  and 
to  Bwana  Mackenzie  to  protect  )'ou  as  far  as  I  could  from 
all  danger,  and  to  pive  you  m\-  life  rather  than  harm  should 
come  to  you.  Bebe  P>wana,  take  these  pistols,"  and  he 
drew  his  revolvers  from   his  belt;    "kill   me,  but  I  will  not  go." 

There  was  a  heroic  majesty  about  the  man  ;  I  took  the 
proffered  pistols,  and  whether  he  misinterpreted  ni)-  movement 
I  know  not  ;  he  opened  his  kaiisic  without  demur,  and  stood 
stoically  with  his  breast  bared  before  me. 

"  I  am  ready,  Bebe  Bwana." 

"  Hamidi,  go,  or  I   shall  be  tempted  to  do  something  rash. 


336 


SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 


Let  me  think  it  over,   and  whether 
yon    go    or    not    I    yo    into    Masai 
land,     ^'on    and    the    rest    of   )our 
goats  ma)'  stay  behind.      I  go  into 
Masai     land    at    sun-up    to-morrow 
morning." 
Before  da)break  I  heard  Hamidi's 
voice  without  ni)-  tent,  saying  pathet- 
ically,  "  Bebe  Bwana,    I    must    speak 
to  you." 

"  Well,  Hamidi,  what  is  it?" 

"  I    am   sorr)'    to    have 
ve.xed  }'ou,  Bebe  Bwana; 
if  you  go  into  Masai 
land,    I    will   go   too. 
I    might    as    well    be 
killed    one    place    as 
another."       And   this 
fine    man,    as    heroic 
,'  and     chivalrous    and 
loyal     as    any     white 
defender  of   a  leader 
could    possibly     have 
MASAI  SPEAKS  AND  SHIELDS,    been  uudcr  the  cir- 
cumstances, succeeded   in    dissuading 
me  from  what    wcnild  have  been  not 
onl)'  a  most    hazardous    undertaking, 


HEROIC    HA.MIDI    AND    OTHERS. 


00/ 


but  wcnikl  tloiibtlt'ss  havt;  rcsultccl  in  the  entire  lootiny  of 
m)'  caraxan  and  annihilation  of  the  Zanzibaris,  no  matter 
what  might  have  happened  to   me. 

Another  word  about  this  noble  fellow.  \\'ht;n  I  would  have 
the  men  ranged  in  line  and  file,  assorted  in  groups,  such  and 
such  men  with  ulcers,  those  with  stomachic  difficulties,  those 
affected  with  sunstroke,  etc.,  in  making  my  daily  round  to  ad- 
minister to  their  maladies,  Hamidi  would  walk  beside  me,  and 
when  he  came  to 
a  man  who  care-  /sf^. 
lessly  extended  \,(^" 
a  dirt)'  loot  cov- 
ered  with  mud,  he  "^«->''jSm 
would  seize  him  by 
the   neck   and    exclaim,  «»; 

"  You  toad  !   o'o  to  the  water; 

o 

don't  )ou  know  better  than  to 
put  a  foot  like  that  before  Bebe  Bwana  ? "  He  always  evinced 
the  desire  to  compel,  when  necessary,  certain  respectful  hom- 
age from  the  porters,   which  proved  most  grateful  to  me. 

Hamidi  called  my  attention  to  the  fact  that  many  of  the 
married  women  of  Chaga  and  Ta\eta  wear  a  leather  loin- 
cloth which  covers  the  hips  antl  falls  half-way  to  the  knees, 
with  a  long,  sash-like  pendant  at  the  side,  embroidered  and 
loaded  down  with  glass  and  metal  beads  and  chains,  the 
leather  colored  with  yellow  clays,  avowing  he  could  not  pro- 
cure one.     There  is  a  certain  superstition  connected  with  these 


CHAGA    MEIAL    CHAIN    UIRDLE. 


33S  SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 

leather  cloths  which  has  a  very  strange  import  as  revealing  an 
innate  idea  of  faithfulness,  if  not  of  tenderness,  according  to  their 
conception  of  such  a  quality  on  the  part  of  the  women  for  the 
men  w'ith  whom  they  are  associated  by  marriage.  The)'  have 
never  been  known  to  sell,  give,  or  barter  one  of  these  cloths 
after  having  worn  it,  until  I  procured  the  one  in  my  posses- 
sion. The  reason  for  this  is  very  rational  from  their  stand- 
point, considering  the  people  from  whom  it  emanates  ;  the 
idea  that  if  they  should  give  to  anj-  mzunga  such  a  cloth,  or 
he  should  obtain  it  in  any  way,  the  woman  would  be  under 
some  sexual  subjection  to  this  man  ;  that  he  could  throw  over 
her  a  spell  at  any  time,  wherever  she  might  be,  however 
unwilling  the  woman  should  feel ;  he  could  take  her  from  her 
husband  and  tribe  to  the  ends  of  the  earth. 

When  1  argued  with  the  women  that  1  was  a  woman,  a 
bcbc  like  themselves,  that  I  could  not  possibl)-  work  such 
magic  over  them,  and  that  it  would  be  a  graceful  thing  for 
one  woman  to  give  to  another  woman  such  an  evidence  of 
her  friendship,  they  argued  and  protested  at  first,  always 
refusing  to  comply  with  my  request  ;  then  as  I  made  firmer 
friendship  with  them,  bestowing  gifts  and  kindnesses  upon 
them,  possibly  administering  to  them  medically  if  they 
chanced  to  be  overtaken  with  illness,  the  heart  of  one 
woman  softened  towards  me  and  she  professed  that  she  was 
willing  to  give  me  her  cloth  if  her  husband  would  only  con- 
sent, for  which  fa\or  1  avowed  my  willingness  to  give  her 
sufficient    material    and    beads  to  make  two  others.     Yet    she 


HEROIC    HAMIDI    AND    OTHERS. 


339 


kept  settling  back  in  wonderment  over  the  peculiarity  of  my 
request,  and  that  I,  a  woman,  and  the  master  of  a  great 
caravan,  could  possess  her  cloth  and  yet  not  care  to  possess 
her.  However,  after  the  lapse  of  many  clays  and  recurrent 
consultations  with  her  husband,  and  all  manner  of  blandish- 
ments on    m}-  part,  she    followed    my  safari   over    fifty  miles, 


LARGE    MASAI    NEBARA. 


and  finally  came  and  tossed  it  into  my  tent,  exclaiming, 
"  Bebe  Bwana,  take  it,  take  it;  you  are  my  sister,  take  it!" 
This  episode  goes  far  to  evidence  how  much  superior  in 
some  ways  is  the  position  of  a  woman  going  among  this 
tribe  over  that  of  any  man,  however  crafty  and  savant  he 
might  be,  and  it  is  only  illustrative  of  many  other  occur- 
rences   during    my    safari,  revealing    to    me    the    habits    and 


340  SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 

customs  and  the  family  life  and  relationships  of  the  natives. 
These  leather  cloths  once  worn  never  change  ownership, 
even  amongf  women  of  the  same  tribe,  but  are  burned  or 
buried  with  the  wearer  upon  death.  As  have  other  travellers, 
so  have  I  two  or  more  perfectly  new  samples  of  these  cloths. 
The  Wa-Kahe  cling  with  great  fidelity  to  a  marvellous 
superstition  quite  Egyptian  in  its  doctrine  of  transmigration 
in  connection  with  the  Colobus  monkey  which  inhabits  their 
forests,  to  which,  however,  no  other  tribe  gives  credence. 
They  believe  that  the  spirits  of  their  ancestors  transmigrate 
and  possess  the  bodies  of  these  white  and  sable  creatures, 
hence,  under  no  circumstances  whatever,  will  a  native  of 
Kahe  kill  or  consciously  permit  one  of  these  beautiful  sim- 
ians to  be  killed,  and  on  approaching  the  forest  where  they 
abide  in  great  numbers,  the  WaT<ahe  observe  an  ominous 
silence  and  cast  furtive  glances  as  they  pick  their  steps  with 
precaution  and  hesitation  that  would  seem  to  indicate  verita- 
ble belief  in  their  superstition. 

Leaping  from  branch  to  branch  of  the  tall  trees  the 
Colobus  monkey  presents  a  beautiful  apparition  ;  their  bodies 
when  fully  grown  are  two  feet  long  from  muzzle  to  root  of 
tail,  and  covered  with  a  very  thick,  long  growth  of  soft  silky 
hair,  jet  black  on  the  back  and  belly,  and  silvery  white  on 
the  sides.  Their  tails  are  from  two  and  a  half  to  three  and  a 
half  feet  long,  and  perfect  plumes  from  root  to  tip  of  spot- 
less white  hair.  The  Masai  and  other  tribes,  to  the  horror 
of    the    Wa-Kahe,     hunt    these    monkeys,     considering    their 


HEROIC    HAMim    AND    OTHERS. 


341 


beautiful  pelts  as  great    troijhies,   and    desirable    trophies    and 
effective  accessories  for  personal  adornment. 

Wa-Kahe  use  bows  and  arrows  and  spears  when  they  can 
procure  them.  They  cultivate  fine  plantations  and  possess 
vast  bee  ranges,  which  incite  maurauders :  thev  hunt  and 
engage  in  minor  blacksmith  work. 
Various  furs,  the  principal  being  the 
H)Tax,  are  used  to  protect  them 
from  the  icy  breath  of  Kibo,  and 
their  huts  were  rather  on  a 
better  order  and  of  more 
artistic  shape  than  those  pre- 
viously seen  by  me.  Gran- 
aries are  placed  on  stilt-like 
supports,  and  resemble  huge  modern 
beehives,  made  of  heavy  braided  or 
roped  grasses.  Many  tribes  hang  ^ 
up  their  produce  and  harvest  inside 
the  slanting  roofs  of  their  huts,  and 
the  appearance  is  much  the  same  as 
a  farmer's  barn  or  garret  in  ci\'ilized 
countries,  prompted  measurably  by  leather  beaded  loin-cloth. 
the  same  necessities.  Tree  granaries  differ  in  no  wa)'  from 
similar  granaries  in  other  lands,  excepting  the  use  of  the 
raphia  palm  leaves,  which  frequenth"  attain  a  growth  of 
thirty  feet  in  length,  and  constitute  an  admirable  thatching 
which  sheds  the  water  over  the  grarnered  harvest  when    once 


342  SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 

suspended  from  the  branches  of  the  selected  trees.  Utility 
is  marked  on  all  sides.  Many  strange  and  multicolored 
mosses  bearded  the  trees,  presenting  the  guise  of  the  be- 
mossed  trees  of  a  Florida  swamp.  There  were  gray  parrots, 
but  not  in  any  great  numbers.  The  ornaments  of  the 
Wa-Kahe  very  much  resemble  those  of  the  \\'a-Ta\eta, 
varied  with  an  occasional  string  of  Masai  beads  or  trinkets, 
and  beads  from  other  tribes. 

By  tying  together  the  ends  of  a  large  waterproof  sheet,  and 
suspending  it  between  trees  or  poles,  I  had  instituted  the  habit 
of  catching  rain  water.  Natives  witnessing  this  would  always 
examine  the  fabric  in  wonderment,  and  would  essay  to  do  the 
same  thing  with  pieces  of  cotton  cloth  they  procured  from 
the  porters,  going  through  with  similar  arrangements  ;  but,  in 
consequence  of  the  thinness  ot  the  cloth,  the  result  was  gen- 
erally unsatisfactory.  In  passing,  these  trifling  circumstances 
are  mentioned  in  evidence  of  the  natives'  susceptibility  in 
appropriation  of  useful  ideas,  and  it  shows  that  their  brains 
have  the  same  receptiveness  one  looks  lor  in  children. 
Failing,  they  naturally  concluded  tliat  there  was  a  peculiar 
charm  about  the  "imperia"  of  Bebe  Bwana,  and  one  covetous 
sultan  was  inciteil  to  command  a  )outh  to  steal  the  water- 
proof sheet  of  my  Palanquin.  He  was  discovered  in  the  act 
and  captured,  and  brought  by  Mamidi  as  a  prisoner  one  long 
day's  march  after  me.  His  family  had  sent,  as  ransom  for  the 
boy,  after  returning  the  stolen  cloth,  a  cow,  two  goats,  four 
sheep,    anil    a    (juantity    of   fruit.       Unfortunately,    I    was   pro- 


o 
z; 


HEROIC    HAMTDI    AND    OTHERS.  343 

hibited  from  acting  in  accordance  with  the  dictates  of  my  own 
feelings,  being  in  German  territory;  hence  there  was  nothing 
left  for  me  but  to  hand  the  boy  over  to  the  resident  officers 
at  the  first  station,  and  enter  a  plea  for  leniency  and  mercy. 
I  was  prompted  to  make  a  personal  aftair  of  it  by  the  touch- 
ing display  of  anguish  of  the  boy's  aged  mother,  fearful  that 
her  son  would  be  consigned  to  death,  as  well  as  by  the  boy's 
own  contrition.  He  was  freed  after  a  day's  make-believe 
incarceration  and  five  sticks,  and  his  promises  for  good  deport- 
ment in  the  future.  He  came  rushing  to  me  full  of  gratitude, 
prostrated  himself  fiat  on  the  ground,  spat  upon  my  toes, 
arose  and  tossed  at  me  armfuls  of  grass  furnished  by  his 
mother,  and  quite  voluntarily  offered  to  carry  a  load  for  a  day 
or  more.  I  cite  this  to  show  that  these  natives  are  capable 
of  feelings  of  contrition,  as  well  as  of  oratitude. 

In  attestation  on  the  side  of  their  sentimental  nature,  a 
little  Kilema  maiden,  seeing  that  1  had  no  rings  upon  my 
hands,  murmured  very  deploringly,  "Poor  Bebe  Bwana !  no 
rings!"  Then,  with  a  sudden  and  spontaneous  accession  of 
generosity,  she  slipped  from  her  own  fingers  her  numerous 
metal  rings,  exclaimed  as  she  proffered  them  to  me  and  as 
I  was  about  to  place  them  on  m\'  fingers,  "  Bebe  m'zuria 
Sana!" — lady  very  beautiful!  —  and  settled  back  upon  her 
heels,  admiringly  gazing  at  me  with  her  own  denuded  hands 
clasped  across  her  equally  nude  abdomen.  Luckily  1  suc- 
ceeded in  taking  a  photograph  ot  her  at  this  juncture,  which 
is  expressive  of  the  situation. 


344 


SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 


One  day,  when  we  had  just  started  out,  I  said  to  Hamidi, 
"Look  you,  man.  I  cannot  talk  to  these  black  tellows  in  this 
wa}' ;  they  crowd  too  close  to  me.  1  must  have  something  to 
stand  on."  He  immediately  issued  an  order  that  every  porter 
who  desires  henceforth  to  speak  to  Bebe  Bwana  must  first  init 
down  his  sanditki   (box)    for  Bebe   Bwana  to  stand  upon,  and 


FOUR    HEADMEN. 

this  was  maintained  throughout  the  entire  journe)-.  When 
I  saw  a  porter  during  camp  hours  coming  towards  me  bearing- 
one  box  or  two,  according  to  his  height,  upon  his  head,  1  knew 
he  had  some  com|)laint  or  request  to  pour  into  ni)'  ears  ;  and  he 
woukl  |)ut  down  one  box,  and  say,  "There!"  anil  put  down 
another  and  repeat,  "There!  "  and  wait  until  1  had  mounted  on 
the  extemporized  tlais.  Then  he  would  begin  his  complaint. 
It  was  the  source  of  a  "reat  deal  of  amusement  to  the  officers  of 


HEROIC    HAMIDI    AND    OTHERS.  345 

various  stations,  as  I  passed  through  sections  where  the  Ger- 
mans or  Enghsh  were  established,  to  witness  this  httle  by-play. 
Presently  the  natives  were  likewise  inoculated  with  the  idea 
that  I  must  not  be  spoken  to  unless  I  occupied  some  point  of 
eminence  ;  so  they  would  indicate  with  their  tongues  or  with 
their  spears  a  stone  or  a  hummock,  and  say,  "  There  !  "  and 
when  I  would  mount  upon  it,  they  would  make  a  salaam  and 
proceed  with  their  business.  One  day,  standing  upon  a  stone, 
while  the  men  were  taking  their  noonday  smoke  and  rest, 
surrounded  by  fifty  or  sixty  young  warriors  and  young  girls, 
in  Kilemi,  I  tried  to  engage  the  attention  of  the  natives; 
and  to  a  young  girl,  whose  eyes  were  riveted  in  amazement 
upon  me,  and  who  nervously  kept  pursing  up  her  mouth,  I 
said,  "  Do  this,"  and  I  whistled.  With  the  erreatest  elee 
and  merriment  all  the  girls  commenced  to  whistle,  and  one 
buxom  fellow  who  stood  well  to  the  fore  among  the  group, 
otherwise  he  would  never  have  taken  the  liberty,  com- 
menced to  whistle.  The  girl  turned  round  and  eave  him 
a  smart  slap  on  the  face  and  said,  "You  are  not  a  girl," 
thenceforth  he  was  the  butt  of  .so  much  merriment  that  he 
was  obliged  to  retire  to  a  remote  spot  for  refuge. 

To  return  to  Hamidi.  If  there  was  any  curious  thing 
that  he  chanced  to  discover,  article  of  wearing  apparel  or 
ornament,  or  a  fine  spear,  he  at  once  managed  to  have 
its  possessor  come  to  me,  and  whilst  standing  apart,  unseen 
by  the  native,  with  a  significant  glance  at  the  article 
and     at    me    he   would     quietly     say,     "  Ha-penda,   hi?"    (do 


546 


SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 


you  like  it?)  If  1  would  nod  or  say,  "Yes,"  he  would  reply, 
"  \'er)'  well,  you  shall  have  it,"  and  in  due  course,  whether 
as  a  gift  from  the  individual,  or  whether  it  was  paid  for  by 
me  or   by  him,  the  coveted  article  became  mine. 

1   was    surprised  one   day  to    have   Hamidi  enter    m\-    tent, 
aying,    "  Bebe    Bwana,    that    thing    must    be 
left."       What     "that    thing"    was    my    looks 
revealed  I   ielt  in  some   doubt.       He    touched 
a    chameleon,    which     I     had    carried    because 
the  little  thing  seemed  to  have  attached  itself 
to  me  in  the  course   oi  my  march,  and    upon 
incjuiry,   "W'h)?"  he    said,    "The     men     think 
that  it  pertains  to  witchcraft."      I   found 
my  porters  throughout  the  caravan  full 
of   abhorrence    oi    all    crawlino-    thinus,    and 
reluctant    to    have    such    tolerated    by    me ; 
so  111)'  little  pet  was  abandoned,  and  I   was  tor- 
mented   by    swarms    of   flies    and    mosquitoes    it 
had  protected  me  against. 

As  my  readers  have  discovered,  another 
ORYX  BEisA  BULL,  charactcr  in  the  cara\-an  was  Josefe,  m)'  head 
interpreter.  He  was  the  wag  and  life  of  the  camp.  He 
spoke  twenty-seven  dialects,  English  particularly  well,  and 
had  been  emplojed  so  constantly  upon  war-ships  going  to 
different  ports,  that  he  had  all  the  mannerisms  of  a  laddie  of 
the  sea;  and  when  I  would  call,  "Josefe!"  he  would  immedi- 
ately straighten    himself   up,   pull  his  coat  together,  touch  his 


HEROIC    HAMIDI    AND    OTHERS.  347 

head  with  his  hand  and  say,  "Aye,  aye,  sir."  I  announced 
to  my  Zanzibaris,  "When  [osefe  tells  you  what  I  say,  it 
is  as  if  I  spoke";  he  was  afterwards  dubbed  "the  trumpet 
of  Bebe,"  not  before  me  or  in  my  supposed  hearing; 
but  time  out  of  number  I  heard  merriment  rinof  throueh- 
out  the  encampment  when  Josefe  would  circulate  about 
giving  utterance  to  an  order.  He  was  personally  full 
of  curiosity  and  interest  to  see  and  hear  everything  con- 
cerning the  natives  whom  we  visited,  as  it  was  his  first 
commission,  as  he  called  it,  in  these  parts,  anel  was  ever 
on  the  alert  to  keep  me  informed  as  to  what  was  going 
on,  and  from  time  to  time  narrated  to  me  many  of  the 
stories  which  were  current,  many  only  of  topical  interest, 
requiring  their  own  setting  to  carry  any  wit  or  meaning. 
He  seemed  very  much  pleased  with  his  position  of  gcntlc- 
man  in  attoidance.  His  vanities  I  himiored  as  best  I  could 
by  giving  him  white  and  blue  yachting  coats  to  wear,  and 
by  having  extra  gold-band  decorations  sewn  on  his  cap  to 
identify  him  from  others,  and  was  ne.xt  to  Hamidi  in  impor- 
tance. I  confess  I  rather  revelled  in  his  swao-pferine  manner 
and  braggadocio  speech  and  assumption  of  dignit)',  but  found 
him  a  capital  elbow  man. 

The  habit  of  regarding  me  as  a  man,  and  not  being  quite 
able  to  reconcile  my  office  witli  that  of  a  woman,  was  shown 
throughout  my  safari  by  the  men  who  were  my  personal 
attaches.  I  would  open  my  tent-flap  and  say,  "Boy!"  Back 
would  come  the  answer,   "  Sabe ! "    (sir);  and    they  never  got 


348 


SULTAN     TO     SUI.TAN. 


over    it.       If  I  addressed    a  porter   he    would    respond,   "  Dio, 
Bwana  "  (yes,  master). 

My    body  servant,  gun-bearer,    and    cook    had    been    with 
.some  of  the  most  distinguished  travellers  on  extensive  safaris. 


exil,ui;us   m on kiiN  -.skins. 

and  were  experienced  and  inured  to  caravan  lile  and  hard- 
ships, and  knew  the  country  fairly  well  from  actual  knowledge 
or  throuoh  hearsay.  Their  raam/cr  of  the  different  charac- 
teristics of  the  iiiznnga  whom  the)-  had  ser\-ed,  revealed  too 
often  the  old  saying  that  a  man  is  never  a  hero  to  his  valet, 
nor  above  the  scrutiny  or   criticism    of   those  whom    he    com- 


HEROIC    HAMIDI    AND    OTHERS.  349 

mands.  They  are  very  close  observers  of  actions  and  words, 
and  make  some  \er)-  astute  deductions.  When  they  are 
favored  by  the  Inoaiia  of  a  caravan,  the)'  become  jealous  of 
any  one  who  invades  their  legitimate  or  self-imposed  duties, 
and  are  guilty  of  man\-  little  spiteful  acts  to  regain  their  lost 
empire,  and  lose  no  chance  to  depreciate  the  invader.  For 
example:  my  boy,  Ramezan,  could  not  endure  the  thought 
that  I  would  allow  an)-  one  to  make  my  bed  or  brush  my 
clothes  but  he  :  and  my  other  boy,  Baraka,  who  assisted  in 
serving  my  meals,  was  equally  jealous  ot  his  function  as  but- 
ler. But  these  two  lads  throughout  my  safari  served  me  with 
as  great  and  efificient  attention  and  cleanliness  as  if  they  had 
been  trained  under  the  most  exacting  teachers  in  a  European 
household.  I  have  previously  written  I  never  sat  down  in  the 
open  on  a  box,  using  the  top  of  its  duplicate  for  a  table  to 
eat  from,  but  they  put  a  dainty  little  tablecloth  over  it, 
and  laid  the  cover  with  a  certain  amount  of  style  and  pomp, 
serving  my  meagre  meals  in  courses.  I  think  travellers 
who  are  deprived  of  these  refined  evidences  of  civilization 
in  making  long  safaris  are  likewise  deprived  of  an  intimate 
knowledge  of  the  capabilities  and  adaptabilities  of  the  blacks 
about  them.  Besides,  it  all  tends  towards  maintaining  self- 
respect,  and  accentuates  personal  prestige,  which  is  so  sig- 
nificant in  the  eyes  of  the  African,  whether  he  is  a  porter 
or  a  free  and  independent  native. 

When  we  were  in  camp  for  a  da)'  there  would  be  a  gen- 
eral   washing    of    all    of   the    clothing    of   the    caravan,    which 


350  SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 

would  be  taken  by  them  to  a  stream  or  pool  and  washed, 
and  their  tent  covers  cleansed,  and  all  of  my  soiled  clothing, 
although  it  never  was  allowed  to  accumulate,  washed  by  the 
women.  The  little  tricks  resorted  to  in  order  to  obtain  soap 
from  me  were  certainly  amusing.  Although  my  stores  suf- 
fered in  consequence  of  these  inroads  upon  them,  I  feigned 
indifference,  knowing  I  had  plenty.  The  Swahali,  as  a  rule, 
are  very  clean  about  their  persons  and  clothing,  and  never 
lose  an  opportunity  of  taking  a  bath  (or  washing)  on  safai'i. 
They  usually  carry  one  or  two  changes  of  clothing.  Rame- 
zan,  my  bo)-,  said  one  day,  speaking  ot  some  natives  who 
were  not  cleanly,  "  Bebe  Bwana  no  likee ;  smellee  badly; 
Ramezan  cleanee;  Ramezan  sweetee.  Bebe,  give  Ramezan 
some  soapee.  Ramezan  washee,  makee  sweetee."  I  gave 
him  a  piece  of  soap,  going  through  the  formula  ol  request- 
ing him  to  return  the  remnant,  which  he  seldom  did.  As  it 
was  his  duty  to  wash  the  napkins  and  tablecloths,  I  had 
great  difficulty  in  supervising  economy  on  this  score,  for  I 
had  charged  him  never  to  serve  a  meal  with  soiled  linen. 
Soap,  in  Ramezan's  hands,  seemed  to  melt  into  nothingness 
in  a  moment,  the  secret  of  which,  of  course,  was  that  he 
used  it  for  his  personal  bathing  purposes,  and  to  whiten  his 
own  clothes.  He  was  fastidiously  neat  and  clean.  This  fact 
conduced  largel\'  to  my  comfort. 

Although  I  had  been  strongly  advised  to  take  women 
porters  and  women  to  wash  and  for  other  duties,  I  toimd  the 
few   I   had  a    perpetual    nuisance.     They  were    always    inciting 


HEROIC   HAMIDI   AND    OTHERS.  351 

disputes  among'  the  porters,  and  resorted  to  all  sorts  of  meas- 
ures to  win  from  them  portions  of  food  and  other  things 
which  they  coveted.  One  little  woman,  who  happened  to  be 
m  admirable  cook,  would  volunteer  her  services  to  groups  of 
porters  who  messed  together,  was  like  a  fatted  pig  at  the 
end  of  the  safari,  having  received  in  payment  for  her  ser- 
vices as  cook  the  pick  of  their  rations.  This  little  woman, 
who  carried  her  full  load 
daily,  frequently  was  in 
danger  of  being  swept 
down  the  torrential 
streams,  which  we  had 
to  ford  or  swim,  and  I 
found  it  necessary  to  de- 
tail a  strong,  tall  porter  j 
as  life  preserver  to  get 
her  safely   across.      How-  an  old  masai  warning  me. 

ever,  I  have  this  to  say  of  the  women  porters,  they  com- 
pared admirably  with  the  men  both  in  staying  qualities  and 
strength,  doing  their  day's  march  with  no  more  complaining, 
besides  having  superficial  duties  either  incumbent  upon  them 
or  volunteered,  which  the  men  had  not.  Certainly  I  was 
personally  deprived  of  their  aid  in  consequence  of  the  des- 
perate and  helpless  illness  of  one  I  took  to  serve  me,  to 
whom  I  had  to  relegate  every  woman  to  nurse,  besides 
detail  a  dozen  or  more  porters  to  carry  and  guard  when 
encamped  against  the  intrusion  of  natives. 


352  SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 

It  was  a  constant  source  of  amazement  to  see  what  the 
porters  would  from  time  to  time  produce  from  their  mats  in 
the  way  of  varieties  of  beads  and  other  trifles,  and  the  way 
in  which  they  converted  their  ration-cloth  into  garments  or 
transformed  a  turban  into  tents.  Needles  were  always  in 
demand.  They  sewed  with  thread  drawn  from  the  woof  of 
cotton  cloth  when  that  they  had  brought  on  reels  was  used. 
Not  only  do  they  sew  neatly  but  with  rapidity;  and  upon 
occasions  where  needles  were  given  out  to  string  m)-  trade 
beads,  which  were  counted  before  distribution  and  again  on 
their  return,  out  of  one  hundred  possibly  ten  might  be 
returned,  the  missing  number  were  always  lost.  Then  I 
would  say  to  the  porters,  "Let  me  examine  your  hair";  and 
often  I  have  found  ten  or  twelve  needles  secreted  in  the 
thick  woolly  pad  surmounting  their  heads.  I  discovered 
that  they  put  for  safe  keeping  all  of  their  little  treasures 
under  this  clump  of  wool  until  they  were  needed  or  could 
be  bartered  to  each  other  or  to  the  natives.  After  a  stated 
time,  when  the  heat  became  oppressive,  and  their  wool  too 
long  and  burdened  with  vermin,  every  head  in  the  caravan 
was  shaved  smooth.  Several  men  among  the  porters  who 
were  good  barbers  were  employed  by  the  others  at  a  nom- 
inal fee  to  perform  this  office.  This  naturally  ended  the 
needle  pilfering,  and  simplified  the  characteristic  search  for 
vermin,  which  seems  indigenous  to  Africa,  and  meets  the 
eye  on  all  sides.  The  few  rupees  they  carried  from  the 
coast,    and    the    beads    received    for    posho,   would     be    tied 


HEROIC    HAMIDI    AND    OTHERS.  353 

in  the  corner  of  their  cloths,  or  deposited  with  one  of  the 
headmen,    until    required  by  them. 

The  headmen,  askari,  antl  interpreters  never  carrj'  loads 
excepting  during  times  of  emergency ;  and  when  there  are 
any  sick  who  must  be  carried,  if  the  caravan  is  small  and 
porters  scarce  because  of  desertion  or  illness,  the  askari 
and  others  are  detailed    as   carriers. 

The  manner  in  which  a  turban,  worn  by  a  porter  to 
ease  the  weight  of  the  loatl  from  his  head,  will  be  whipped 
oft  in  a  moment  when  a  camping  ground  is  reached,  is 
interesting.  Then,  with  two  or  three  forked  sticks  cut  from 
the  immediate  bushes  or  trees,  he  makes  a  dainty  little  tent, 
and  carefully  sweeps  the  ground  within  with  a  bush  besom, 
and  lays  down  clean  grass,  puts  his  belongings  inside,  and 
joins  a  group  of  porters  with  whom  he  messes.  Then  the 
cooking  commences,  and  he  rushes  off  —  if  he  is  not  per- 
sonally attending  the  pot  —  to  gather  more  wood  or,  perhaps, 
in  answer  to  mj-  call,  to  fetch  fuel  for  my  fires.  He  changes 
his  body-cloths,  puts  on  a  little  white  cap,  which  he  has 
perhaps  not  yet  finished,  and  the  threads  may  be  hanging 
loose,  and  takes  up  his  position  to  sing  or  talk  in  a  loud 
voice,  telling  —  if  he  has  visited  the  place  before  —  what 
happened  when  Bwana  So-and-so  was  encamped  here  last 
year,  or  ten  years  before.  Their  minds  seem  to  have 
marvellous  retentive  powers.  Things  may  be  exaggerated 
somewhat  by  their  imagination,  but,  on  the  whole,  I  found 
that    many    of    their    stories    were    quite    accurate,    and    had 


354  SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 

been  vividly  impressed  upon  their  minds  by  certain  incidents 
known  to  more  than  one  porter  in  the  caravan,  and  would 
fairly  coincide  and  corroborate  each  other. 

Their  trifling  manifestations  of  vanity  amused  me  immensely. 
Every  porter  carried  a  mirror.  When  in  camp  he  would  seek 
out  a  quiet  corner  and  pull  out  his  mirror,  take  his  tooth- 
sticks,  and,  while  admiringly  gazing  at  himself,  would  polish 
his  teeth  and  make  some  little  arrangement  of  toilet,  comb 
his  hair,  or  polish  his  scalp,  and  cant  his  cap  in  a  coquettish 
way  a  little  over  one  ear,  and  then,  with  great  satisfaction, 
pull  himself  together  and  meander  up  and  down  through 
the  passages  between  the  tents,  assuming  the  air  of  a 
dandy   who    was    thoroughly    satisfied    with    himself. 

The  picking  of  the  mimosa  thorns  from  their  cloths,  which 
would  sometimes  form  a  perfect  nap  over  the  entire  face  of 
the  cloth,  and  the  jabbing  out  of  their  flesh  thorns,  which 
they  do  in  an  almost  merciless  manner,  occupied  much  atten- 
tion. These  thorns,  and  also  bits  of  flint  which  had  become 
imbedded  in  their  feet  during  a  day's  march,  are  usually 
gouged  out — in  a  three-cornered  piece  of  flesh  embodying  the 
thorn  or  flint  —  either  by  their  own  hands  or  the  kind  offices 
of  a  friend,  and  they  never  flinch  or  seem  to  mind  the 
operation.  But  when  I  got  a  thorn  in  my  foot,  they  made 
delicate  arrancrements  for  its  removal.  Two  or  three  boxes 
were  laid  down,  with  rugs  upon  them  ;  then  I  was  ceremoni- 
ously requested  to  be  seated,  and  to  bare  my  foot.  The 
porter    who    had    assumed    the    duty    of  removing   it,    having 


HEROIC    HAMIDI    AND    OTHERS.  355 

washed  his  mouth  and  polished  his  teeth,  asked  me  for 
"sweetee  water"  —  which  was  cologne  —  and  copiously  bathed 
his  face  all  over  with  it,  rinsed  out  his  mouth,  and  then  put 
on  his  clean  kansti.  He  then  lay  fiat  on  his  stomach  on  the 
ground  at  the  end  of  the  box  on  which  my  foot  rested,  with 
his  hands  stretched  on  each  side  so  as  to  avoid  touching  me, 
and  saying,  "  Inshallah,  Bebe,"  which  is  equivalent  to  "  With 
your  permission,  lady,"  with  his  lips  parted  and  his  teeth 
thrust  forward  as  far  as  possible,  and  pressing  steadily  and 
forcibly  about  the  thorn  until  he  had  it  well  clinched  between 
them,  he  pulled  it  slowly  but  firmly  out  and  held  it  in  his 
teeth,  and  came  and  dropped  it  by  my  side  for  my  inspec- 
tion. As  a  master  of  surgery,  he  asked  for  a  piece  of  cotton 
wool,  and  after  dipping  this  in  grease,  he  daintily  bandaged 
my  foot.  This  important  ministration  ended,  he  would  start 
on  a  dead  run  to  his  tent  to  tell  with  boast  and  flourish  to 
his  comrades  the  service  he  had  rendered  Bebe  Bwana. 

With  great  ceremony  Josefe  informed  me  that  a  boiite- 
sale  was  to  take  place  among  the  porters.  This  aftair  was 
a  general  auction  of  all  superfluous  articles,  bottles,  and 
curios.  The  fun  they  provoked  by  the  bidding  was  irresisti- 
bly contagious. 


356 


SULTAN     TO     SULTAN . 


CHAPTER   XVII. 

SULTAN     MIREALI. 

-jS  we  approached  Marungu,  Sultan  Mi- 
reali's  province,  had  crossed  the 
last  ravine,  and  were  ascendins,''  the 
last  hill  to  his  bonia,  a  very  stony, 
difficult  pull  for  my  weary  porters, 
there  could  be  heard  the  buzz  and 
hum  of  distant  voices,  occasionally 
a  strident  tone  would  override  the 
others,  and  on  searching;  for  a  solution  of  the  hubbub,  I  de- 
scried  at  the  crest  of  the  hill,  roughl\-  estimated,  two  or  three 
thousand  people,  making  a  spectacular  sight  decidedly  intensi- 
fied by  the  bright  red  that  seemed  to  prevail  in  their  flashing, 
ample  vestments,  as  the}'  moved  and  circled  about  with  consid- 
erable agitation,  like  swarming  bees,  at  one  time  converging, 
then  spreading  out  and  scattering,  only  to  crowd  again  together 
ami  return  ;  and,  as  we  neared,  I  discovered  that  the  pivot 
of  attraction  consisted  in  a  personage  standing  upon  a  huge 
bowlder,  a  native,  tall  and  distinguished,  who  appeared  a  perfect 
guy,  tricked  out  in  a  pair  of  German  military  trousers,  with 
side   stripes,  a  white  knitted   shirt  with   a  brilliant  pin  on  the 


D 


< 
O 

o 


o 

7Z 


o 


SULTAN    MIREALI. 


357 


bosom,  a  celluloid  high  collar,  a  cravat  of  the  most  flaminof 
color,  a  striped  woollen  Scotch  shooting-coat,  a  flamboyant 
pocket-handkerchief,  and  a  j^air  of  Russia-leather  shoes,  expos- 
ing blue  silk  clocked  socks.  His  fine  head  was  disfigured  b^- 
wearing  a  black  silk  pot  hat,  which  was  canted  backwards, 
bonnet  fashion,  by  the  long  porcupine  quill  ear  ornaments 
thrust  throuofh  the  rims  of  his  ears.  He  carried  an  Enolish 
walking-stick  with  a  huge  silver  knob,  and  held  in  his  hands 
a  pair  of  kid  gloves.  This  clown  then 
was  Mireali,  conceded  to  be  the  handsomest  r4 
native  man  in  East  Africa,  the 
most  noble  and  most  majestic  sultan  ^^  ;. 
if  not  the  most  powerful.  This  ^  §•  ^ 
chivalrous  sultan,  notified  by  his  cou-  ? 
riers  at  last,  alter  his  weeks  of  expect  I. 
ancy,    I    was    coming,  had  summoned  all 

CI-  ,   .  ,        ,  ,  DELICATE  CHAIN  NECKLACE, 

oi     his     subjects  —  several    thousand — to        with  spiral  brass 
bid   me  welcome,  and   add    lustre  to  the  pendants. 

honor  he  desired  to  pay  Bebe  Bwana,  and  to  Italicize  the 
function  had  ridiculously  bedecked  himself  in  this  cast-off 
finery  of  various  persons  of  different  nationality,  who  had 
but    recently    left    his    province. 

Remembering  that  he  had  been  told  to  uncover  in  the 
presence  of  a  guest,  Mireali  found  himself  in  a  sad  dilemma 
as  to  how  to  do  it  ;  however,  one  of  his  many  subjects  stepped 
up  behind  him  and  tilted  the  hat  over  backwards,  and  scraped 
it  off   from  the  embarrassed  potentate's   head.      It  is  a  shame 


iSB 


SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 


a    man    like    Mireali    should     be    so    imposed    upon    by    those 
who  should  have  known  better. 

When    all    the    salaams    and   jambos   had   been    effusively 
uttered,    and    Mireali    had    welcomed   me  with 
great    ceremony     himself,     he    conducted     me, 
followed  by  my  caravan,  to  his  old  bom  a,  which 
presented    rather  a  ghastly  appearance,  for   his 
father-in-law,  brother-in-law,    rival,  and    enemy. 
Sultan    Mandara    of    Moschi,    had    first 
looted,    then    burnt    his    house    to    the 
; round,  and    the   charred  beams  and 
)ther  debris  were  the  only  remnants  to 
be  seen  of  his  first  advance  in  civiliza- 
tion, for  his  house  had  been  built  by 
iSwahali  labor  and  in  just  such  style 
as    one  might    find    in    Zanzibar. 
His    present    boma    is    sepa- 
rated from  this  site  by  a  rubbled 
dry    stone    fence,  about  ten  feet 
high    and   three    and    a    half   in 
thickness,     upon     which     usually 
disported  two  or  three  pet  goats, 
and     frequently     all     his     wives 
and    the    women     of    his    wives 
would  loom   up  over   this    fence 
to    see    Bebe    Bwana.      As  soon 
SULTAN  MIREALI  iM  NATIVE  AiTiRE.        as  I   had  ail  oppoTtunit)'    of  ex- 


SULTAN     MIREALI. 


359 


changing  a  few  words  with  Mireali,  when  he  asked  for  all  the 
white  men  who  had  visited  him,  I  ventured  to  say:  "Mireali, 
why  do  )ou  wear  these  clothes  ?  They  make  you  look  like  a 
goat.  I  want  to  see  you  in  your  own  native  cloth,  and  see 
you  as  Mireali,  the  great  African  sultan  that  )ou  are."  He 
hung  his  head  contemplatively  for  a  few  moments,  then 
gazed  at  me  with  his  fine  eyes,  said,  "  Bebe  Bwana,  yes,, 
yes,  to-morrow."  The 
next  morning  he  pre- 
sented himself  with  an 
enormous  cloth,  as 
large  as  four  table- 
cloths sewn  together, 
wound  around  him,  and 
thrown  over  his  shoul- 
ders in  the  most  grace- 
ful  and  artistic  manner, 
trailing  regally  behind 
him,  carrying  a  long 
spear,  and  backed  up  by  his  picturesque  coterie  of  wives 
and  followers,  all  in  native  costumes.  The  wives  all  wear 
ample  pieces  of  Americana,  which  is  somewhat  superior  to 
the  trade  gumpty,  and  quantities  of  beaded  and  metal 
ornaments.  He  looked  truly  majestic  as  he  advanced  with 
his  picturesque  cortege,  and  I  could  not  help  recalling  some 
of  the  old  pictures  of  Roman  senators.  His  mien  was  full 
of  composure,  yet  not  restrained  to  such  a  pass  as  to  conceal 


PRESENTATION    JEWELLED    BELT,    DAGGER, 
AND    ORNAMENTS. 


;6o 


SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 


his  gracious  desire  to  be  hospitable,  and  there  was  a  hirking 
anxiety  withal,  -which  manifested  itself  in  his  furti\'e  glances, 
as  if  he  sought  to  divine  what  would  most  please  me.  In 
the  course  of  the  day  he  brought  me  sheep,  with  fat  tails 
dragging  on  the  ground,  one  or  two  of  which    he    had    been 


BEAD    GIRDLES    WORN    SOLELY    BY    MIREALl'S    SUKLVS     (WO.MKNJ. 

fattening  especially  for  me,  and  the  creatures  could  scarcely 
move,  burdened  with  so  much  superfluous  flesh  ;  also  numer- 
ous ofoats,  and  sent  me  one  cow  after  another  until  the  number 
reached  ten.  This  was  a  thing  unparalleled  in  East  Afri- 
can native  generosity,  for  it  is  conceded  that  one  or  two  cows 
are    considered    a    right    royal    offering;    but    Mireali,    in    his 


SULTAN    MIREALI.  36 1 

eaeerness  to  know  more  of  me,  and  make  me  feel  he  was 
my  friend,  and  to  secure  my  friendship  for  himself,  had  noth- 
ing in  his  province  he  woukl  not  have  bestowed  upon  me, 
had  I  expressed  the  desire  to  possess  it.  We  had  many 
talks,  and  I  found  him  intelligent,  his  brain  alert  and  suscep- 
tible of  impressions,  and  with  a  general  discontent  with  his 
condition,  and  a  restless  craving  to  become  more  as  the  white 
men.  Isly  finest  music  box  he  coveted  without  any  disposition 
to  dissemble,  and  was  never  happier  than  when  watching  the 
wheels   go  round,   and  marking  the  intonations  of   the  carols. 

Finally,  in  a  spasm  of  desire  which  overcame  him  to 
possess  this  box,  he  came  and  planted  before  me  his  own 
personal  spear,  his  sceptre  as  it  were,  and  said,  "  Bebe  Bwana, 
take  this  and  let  me  have  your  music  box."  I  gave  him  the 
music  box,  and  a  jewelled  belt  and  dagger,  happy  to  pos- 
sess   the    spear. 

I  queried,  "  How  will  you  keep  this  box  from  being 
stolen,  as  your  other  treasures  have  been  stolen,  by  Mandara?" 

He  led  me  to  an  excavation  in  a  secluded  spot  under 
the  shade  of  banana-trees  in  the  middle  of  his  plantation, 
which  was  lined  with  stone  slabs  and  completely  covered  inside 
with  Hyrax  and  Colobus  monkey-skins,  and  here  he  placed 
his  treasure  with  a  jewelled  sword  I  had  brought  to  him  from 
England,  and  after  covering  it  up  with  a  heavy  slab  and 
replacing  the  sod,  he  said,  "  Mandara  can  never  find  that." 
This  habit  of  burying  treasures,  especially  ivory,  is  universally 
resorted  to  by  all  African  tribes. 


362  SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 

The  women,  or  surias,  of  his  wives  are  totally  nude,  wear- 
ing decorative  beaded  ropes,  six  to  twenty-four  in  number, 
around  their  waists,  arms,  and  legs,  with  no  other  attempt 
at  clothing.  They  are  more  beautifully  formed  than  thei' 
mistresses,  although  darker  in  color,  but  their  features  are 
absolutely  pretty,  their  teeth  glittering  white,  and  they  seem 
to  give  a  great  deal  of  attention  to  the  decoration  of 
their  bodies  with  their  beads,  which  are  usually  white  and 
i\  pale  or  dark  blue,  or  solid  dark  colors, 
• -V  and  dainty  in  the  extreme.  They  also 
wear  cloth  and  leather  pendants,  which 
may  be  denominated  as  African  fig 
,1  leaves.  These  articles  are  likewise 
affected  by  many  of  the  men  and  chil- 
dren, and  are  profusely  ornamented  with 
beads  and  delicate  metal  chain  fringes. 
liEADEEi  FIG  LEAF.  The  gTace  of  these  women  in  moving 
about  is  the  grace  which  affixes  to  all  people  who  are  in  the 
habit  of  carrying  loads  over  mountainous  countries  on  their 
heads  with  their  bodies  erect,  and  they  have  the  movement 
almost  of  a  o-azelle  in  climbincr  and  descending  the  mountains. 
This  imparts  to  them  a  somewhat  haughty  mien  and  swing- 
ing motion  as  they  approach  )'ou  without  loads.  Although 
we  are  in  the  habit  of  considering  Africans  as  being  simply 
progressive  monkeys,  a  species  of  rudimental  human  beings, 
with  their  arms  awkwardly  pendent,  hands  and  feet  large  and 
ungainly,  and  a  certain   cattish   movement  when   not  shuffling. 


SULTAN    MIREALI. 


and  licit  footed,  I  am  free  to  sa)-  it  is  not  the  case  with 
these  Chaga  people.  They  are  great  posers  when  they  are 
on  view,  if  they  hold  or  have  an  audience  with  other  tribes, 
or  the  white  man  is  present.  Their  self-consciousness  and 
egotistic  vanit)-  transcend  concealment. 

I  asked    jNIireali,    "  Do  you   not    love  one  wife  better  than 
another  ?  " 

"  Oh,  I  like  them  all,  but  the  new 
one  is  the  best  for  to-day  ;  in  a  week 
I  shall  afo  back  to  the  old,  the  big 
wife,  because  she  knows  me  better 
than  the  others,"  he  quaintly  responded.  ' 

"  But  these  children,  how  about 
them?      There  are  a  number." 


"Well,     yes,     they    are    good    little  Vi,i,!i:|M.i'ii 


goats,    but    only    the    first    son    of   the  |li^'fsfAvtiil'44'4'M%f^ 
big  wile  IS  worthy  ot    my  virility.  /,',:  ■'!  iUiWi^Uii^^l  .1%-^'^j 

lis     expression     rather    perplexed   Jy^fZ^^fe™?? 

3ut    later    on    I    learned    the    true   ^''^Pt'li®  ll'^^^P' '1 


This 
me,    but    later    on    I    learned    the    true   'ff'.'Sjlp 
significance  of  his  phrase  and  thought,  beaded  fig  leaf. 

"  Ah  me,  what  exponents    of   simple  honesty  and  truth  these 
aboriginals  are." 

Complimenting  Mireali  about  the  neatness  and  taste  dis- 
played by  the  natives  in  packing  loads,  he  turned  around  and 
acquainted  me  with  a  subtle  reason   I   had  overlooked. 

"  A  spray  of  grass,  a  few  seeds,  a  chewed  bit  of  sugar- 
cane ma}"  betray  any  one  to  his  enemy.     Watch  us  ;   we  never 


364  SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 

go  exactly  by  the  same  path.  Look  you,  Bebe  Bwana,  see 
there,  that  woman  bounding  through  the  grass.  She  is  the 
wife  of  a  well-lcnown  Masai,  and  she  is  trying  to  lose  her 
footprints.  By  and  by  she  will  wade  across  the  water,  then, 
on  the  other  bank,  later  on,  cross  back." 

There  was  so  much  suggestion  in  Mircali's  remarks,  that 
from  that  hour  I  never  ceased  watching  the  natives  we 
chanced  to  meet,  or  those  who  were  pursuing  the  same 
direction,  and  discovered  that  they  were  more  or  less  erratic 
in  the  course  of  their  journey,  habitually  "  losing  their  foot- 
prints." A  bev)-  of  native  women  carrjing  provisions  from 
sultan  to  sultan,  or  merely  in  the  hope  of  capturing  trade 
from  my  caravan  when  we  would  halt,  at  one  moment  would 
be  in  plain  sight,  and  later  on,  when  we  would  have  crossed 
a  stream  or  ascended  a  craggy  steep,  they  would  have  van- 
ished, subsequentl)'  to  emerge  away  beyond  to  the  right  or 
left  of  our  path  from  a  dense  thicket,  or  were  far  in 
advance  awaiting  our  approach,   having  cut  across  countr)-. 

It  was  a  fine  sight  to  see  these  women,  almost  nude  but 
elitterino-  with  their  barbaric  metal  ornaments  and  bright 
beads,  fleet-footed,  indifferent  to  hardships  or  physical  hurt, 
race  up  or  down  the  moimtain-sicles,  ford  rivers,  step  upon 
cruel  thorns  and  sharp  blade-like  flints,  or  slide  along  over  the 
slippery  mud  with  the  lleetness  and  agility  of  gazelles,  bal- 
ancing on  their  heads  heavy  loads  ot  fruit  or  what  not,  and 
never  fall.      Ordinarily  they  will  cover  thirty  miles  in  a  da)-. 

One  of  Mireali's  sisters  has  been  the  cause  of  a  war  with 


SULTAN    MIREALI.  365 

Mandara.  She  has  been  euphoniously  named  the  \'enus  of 
the  Mountains,  and  accounted  to  be  a  professional  Chaga 
beauty.  Mireali's  demand  of  forty  cows  for  his  sister,  Man- 
dara would  not  accede  to.  .So  he  stormed  Mireali's  boma, 
but  did  not  capture  the  prize,  although  he  drove  Mireali 
away  Irom  his  province  temporarih'. 

Mireali  was  under  a  cloud  and  not  in  very  great  favor 
with  his  subjects  because  of  this  defeat.  When  one  of  these 
sultans  are  defeated,  they  evacuate  their  sultanate  and  retreat 
into  the  fastness  of  the  mountains  until  things  have  calmed 
down.  The  Germans  had  given  their  protection  to  Mireali, 
so  he  returned  in  hopes  some  day  to  lay  his  despotic  enemy 
and  relation  low. 

Mireali  has  not  been  free  from  the  crime  of  raiding  les.ser 
tribes,  but  he  aims  to  improve  himself,  and  seeks  to  imitate 
the    more    enlightened  wa\-s  of  the  mzninyu. 

Mireali  represents  all  that  is  superior  and  intelligent 
among  these  tribes.  As  rival  in  intelligence  he  has  the 
youngest  sultan  in  East  Africa,  Miriami,  who  has  possessions 
in  Kilema ;  and  this  young  prince,  who  had  performed  in 
my  behalf  several  acts  of  real  services,  for  which  I  strove  to 
give  substantial  evidence  of  appreciation,  and  had  bestowed 
upon  him  all  manner  of  jjresents,  I  discovered  that  he 
looked  .somewhat  downcast,  when  I  asketl,  "Is  there  an)'thing 
else   \ou   would   like?       Are  my  gifts  not  to  your  pleasure?" 

He  replied,  "Ah,  dio  Bebe  Bwana ;  but  I  want  an 
English  saw  and  an  English  hammer." 


366  SULTAN   TO    SULTAN. 

I   asked,   "What  do  you  want  these   for?" 
He    answered,    "  Ah,     Bebe    Bwana,    I    want    to    build   an 
EneHsh    house    and    hve    like   a    white   man."     I    promised   to 
.send  him  the  saw. 

He  said  doubtfully,  "Ah,  yes,  white  men  all  promise,  but 
they  all  forget ;  the  vizimgu  always  lies." 

I  interrupted  him  .sharply,  "  Stop,  Miriami,  )'ou  must  not 
speak  to  Bebe  Bwana  in  that  way.  I  never  lie.  I  will 
send  you  the  saw." 

And  upon  my  return,  while    the  delirium  was  raging-  dur- 

ino-  mv  illness,  this   thiny-  haunted 
me    with    other     promises     I     had 
made    these    poor  trusting  natives,. 
AGARY  BEADS  AND  DAWA  sud  I   uevcr  rested,  day    or    night, 

CHAINS,    RARE.  ^^^^jj      ^^.^^^      ^^^^      ^^^^y      ^^^    ^     ^^^]^j 

ment,  through  the  consideration  of  the  scrupulous  guardian 
of   my    honor,  and   Miriami  has  his  saw. 

So  it  is,  I  think,  if  people  when  visiting  the  country  of 
natives,  instead  of  taking  useless,  showy  trumpery,  would 
give  them  implements  useful  and  simple  to  understand,  and 
take  a  little  trouble  to  teach  them  the  uses  thereof,  they 
would  be  found  ready  and  appreciative  people,  evincing 
gratitude  and  no  mean  amount  of  aptitude. 

The  natives'  sufferings  from  the  cold  in  these  districts, 
where  the  bleak  wind  rises  at  four  in  the  afternoon,  and 
the  thermometer  falls  down  to  fifty-four  degrees  and  even 
lower,  is    very    pitiful  ;    and    although    they  have  quantities   of 


SULTAN    MIREALI. 


367 


furs,  they  are  constantly  asking  for  cloths  and  blankets  to  keep 
them  warm.  Various  fibres,  papj'rus,  bamboo,  iiiivhala,  and 
others,  and  grasses  which  abound  throughout  East  Africa, 
are  susceptible  of  being  converted  into  frabrics,  exactly  as 
such  have  been  utilized  by  the  people  of  Madagascar  and 
Peru  ;  therefore,  if  simple  looms,  without  any  mechanical  in- 
tricacies, were  introduced,  the  natives  could  very  soon  supply 
their  own  requirements,  as  well  as  produce  a  com- 
mercial commodity.  I  found  a  variety  of  wild  cotton, 
it  not  cotton  certainly  a  delicate  silky,  sepia  color  pro- 
duct, covering  vast  areas,  which  mieht  be  cultivated. 
The  only  native-made  fabrics  I  found  were  sacks 
varying  from  a  tiny  size  only  large  enough  to  hold 
an  &^^  or  two,  graduating  to  those  large  enough 
to  hold  a  huge  bunch  of  bananas,  on  up  to  dimen- 
sions sufficient  to  entirely  cover  a  hut.  One  in  mv 
possession  is  three  feet  deep  and  five  feet  in  cir- 
cumference, and  took  a  woman  one  year  steady 
work  to  plait.  The  twine  or  cord  out  of  which  it 
is  plaited  is  made  by  twisting  into  very  hard  strands  ^[^pj.  ,^y 
uru'/iala,  or  bamboo,  fibre ;  the  women  laboriousl\'  *"''^-^"- 
punch  the  cord  through  the  foundation  braid  with  a  fish- 
bone or  an  iron  wire  prod.  .So  closely  knit  are  these  sacks 
that  they  hold  water  after  having  been  soaked.  As  usual, 
the  article  is  colored  with  }ellow  clay,  variegated  with  an 
occasional  bright  red  strand  dyed  with  the  juice  of  the 
dracsena-bush. 


■'-'4  ft 


% 


;68 


SULTAN    TO    SULTAN. 


SULTAN    MIRF.AT.T    AND    COURTIERS. 


SULTAN    MIREALI.  369 

It  does  not  demand  a  stress  of  credulity  to  believe  that 
the  jewellers  who  are  capable  of  executing  the  tedious  pro- 
cesses required  to  produce  the  delicate  chain  work,  of  which 
I  saw  so  man)'  varieties,  and  the  \-ulcans  of  Chaga  land 
who  can  forge  such  Ijeautiful  spears,  and  also  those  who 
make  hide  shields,  decorate  gourds,  tan  leather,  with  as  great 
natural  skill  as  the\'  indisputably  do  now,  are  capable  of  much 
better  things,    if  onl)-  trained. 

Mireali  has  made  some  \"ery  fair  examples  of  candles 
out  of  the  beeswax,  and  he  craves  lisfht,  and  no  more 
welcome  sfift  did  I  bestow  uoon  him  than  candles,  oil,  and 
soap.  He  was  ambitious  to  get  window  glass  for  a  new  Swahali 
house  he  was  about  to  erect.  They  could  also,  by  the  Intro- 
duction of  such  simple  sugar  presses  as  are  used  to-day  in 
Madagascar,  express  the  juice  from  the  sugar-cane,  which 
grows  in  great  abundance,  and  provide  for  themselves  this 
appetizing  condiment,  preserving  it  for  such  times  as  there 
were  no  crops,  and  secure  to  themselves  the  benefit  of  its 
nourishment  when  the  harvests  failed.  Apart  from  and  in 
addition  to  the  usefulness  of  such,  they  would  regard  every 
new  avocation  in  which  they  might  become  skilled  as  an 
amusement ;  they  delight  in  the  novelties  which  the  white 
man  brings  ;  and  Mireali  showed  me,  with  great  pride,  twelve 
folding  wooden  chairs,  like  steamer  chairs,  and  a  table  ol 
his  own  manufacture,  before  which  he  sat  while  eating,  and 
he  was  pleased  as  a  child  when  I  gave  him  a  tablecloth, 
some   napkins,  knives  and   forks,  and  a  set  of   little  china  tea- 


"wO 


SULTAN    TO    SULTAN. 


cups  and  saucers,  and  some  tea  ;  and  die  most  notable  after- 
noon tea — "a  small  and  early"  —  I  had  during  my  African 
season  was  sitting  in  his  bouia  on  a  four-legged  stool,  sur- 
rounded by  his  wives  and  surias,  served  by  Mireali  himself 
i,\ith  a  cup  of  tea  of  his  own  brewing,  some 
sugar-cane,  bananas,  and  an  attempt  at 
\,v  bread  made  from  banana  flour,  a  tomato 
salad  which  he  concocted  himself,  with 
the  flourish  of  a  gormand,  and  various 
other  knickknacks  from  his  own 
(  kitchen.  I  had  taken  some  boxes 
"^  of  bonbons,  but  these  people  did 
not  care  for  them.  The  boys  took 
the  sugar-plums  and  used  them  for 
marbles,  and  shot  them  out  of  their 
finoers    at    targets. 

o  o 

Mireali  used  to  sit  by  the  hour 
watching  me  write.  When  I  held  a  hill- 
dress  reception,  he  fell  upon  the  ground 
and  spat  upon  the  hem  of  m)-  gown, 
quite  lost  in  admiration.  My  blonde  wig 
particularly  interested  him,  and  he  brought 
DANCING  WIG,  FRONT  VIEW,  me  Gue  of  the  native's  dancing  wigs, 
made  of  the  white  hair  of  the  Colobus  monkey-skin,  shaped 
to  fit  the  head.  My  court  gown  was  a  source  of  endless 
admiration,  not  only  with  Mireali,  but  other  sultans  and 
natives.      Mireali    wanted    to    know    the    kind    of  cloth  it    was 


\  \ 


SULTAN    MIKEALI. 


made  of.  Josefe  put  my  nationality  in  pawn  by  quickly  in- 
forming him  that  the  silk  and  silver  netting  covering  it 
were  fabrics  never  worn  only  by  white  queens,  like  Bcbe 
Bwana. 

"Ale!"  ejaculated  Mireali,  "it  is  then  queens'  cloth";  and 
so    the    name     maintained    from    that 
on,   in  answer  to  other  questioners. 

The     larg-e     crystal     multicolored 
stage    jewels     covering     the    gown    were 
from   time   to  time,  one  by  one,  removed 
to  bestow  upon  the  covetous  natives,  until 
not    one     remained.       My   bracelets,    neck- 
lets and  rings  and   shoe   buckles  were  like- 
wise relinquished  in  the  same    manner.      Ii 
truth,  the  bawbles  were  taken  with  this  enc 
in  view,  notwithstanding  the  simple    natives 
deemed    my    apparent    willingness    to    thus 
lavishly    bestow    upon     them     m)-    beautiful 
jewels    as    a    personal     distinction,    and    my 
generosity,    in    their    estimation,   ranked    me 
in    the  light    of    a  millionnaire. 

D.4NCING    WIG 

Whate\'er  is  the   reason    I  could  not   as-      made  of  colobus 

MONKEY    WHITE    FUR. 

certain,    but    whenever   a    native    presented 

me  with  an  article,   if  possible,  he  or  she  would  keep  a  bead 

or  two  or  an  ornament  or  a  little  bit  of  chain,  no  matter  what, 

only  some    bit   of   the    present    they    always  were    desirous  to 

withhold. 


SULTAN    TO    SULTAN. 


Mireali  was  highly  delighted  with  a  powerful  sunglass 
I  presented  to  him,  after  showing  him  how  the  sun's  rays 
could  be  focused  to  set  fire  to  dried  leaves,  tow,  or  paper. 
He  evinced  great  excitement,  exclaimed  in  glee,  "  Bebe  Bwana, 
now  I  can  stand  on  one  mountain  and  burn  Mandara's  honia 
and  plantations  on   the  other  mountain." 

In  evidence  of  homage,  Mireali  danced  for  me  the  rua, 
in  which  he  is  a  jaast  master.  This  dance  consists  in  floating 
out  in  the  air  a  long  piece  of  cotton  cloth,  eight  or  ten  yards 
long,  one  end  attached  to  the  body,  and  whilst  the  dancer 
prances  and  leaps  about  he  keeps  his  arms  swinging  and 
casting    out    in    a  loop  the  cloth,    striving  to  have  it  describe 

a  circle,  and  when  this  is 
achieved  the  dance  is  at 
/  an  end.  He  was  so  grace- 
ful, agile,  and  skilful,  he 
put  his  competitors  to 
shame.  Upon  this  occa- 
sion the  moon   shone  with 


DELICATE    CHAhM    NECKLACE. 


its  fullest  radiance,  and  the  atmosphere  seemed  to  palpitate  with 
ineffable  effulgence,  clear  dazzling  white,  as  the  white  of  bur- 
nished silver;  and  as  Mireali  danced,  his  shadow  fell  anti  llittcd 
in  a  weird,  spectral  way.  It  has  no  parallel  in  ni)-  memory. 
Before  departing  from  Marungu  it  was  my  good  fortune 
to  take  a  photograph  of  a  very  large  group  of  Mireali's 
court.  The  simple,  hospitable  folk  had  gathered  about  my 
tent    to    implore    me  to   remain,  urging,   "  Stay,   Bebe    Bwana, 


SULTAN     MIREALI. 


-)  7  - 


Stay;  you  shall  be  more  powerful  even  tlian  all  the  sultans; 
you  shall  have  all  the  plantations,  all  the  cows,  and  sheep, 
and  goats.  Stay,  Bebe  Bwana,  sta\'."  They  never  knew  they 
were  thereafter  to  be  my  photographic  subjects. 

Mireali  dolorously  came  to  me  the  morning  I  made  my 
adieus,  with  the  frame  of  a  large  compact  English  um- 
brella, with  a  conspicuous  silver  handle,  but  lacking  every 
vestige  of  cover, —  the  remains  of  a  gift  from  an 
American  sportsman,  and  which  had,  in  its 
normal  condition,  served  during  two  years  to  jL 
constantly  shelter  Mireali  from  the  sun  and  //oA 
much-detested  rain.  He  deplored  the  loss 
ceaselessly  and  in  pitiful  tones  of  yearning 
queried,   "Can    Bebe    Bwana    make   it  new?" 

"  No,  Mireali,  but  I  will  send  you  one  from 
London ;  meanwhile  you  shall  have  one  of  my 
red  sunshades."  He  promptly  took  the  substi- 
tute, evidently  liked  it  very  much,  pronounced 
it  '"viznri  saua"  (very  beautitul)  ;  after  a  tew 
circumspect  minutes,  half  ashamed,  he  again 
approached  me  and  hesitatingly  asked,  so  none 
micrht  hear  but  me,  "  Bebe  Bwana,  don't  iorofet 
the  other  mioazuili   (umbrella)." 

After  leaving  the  boundaries  of  his  prov- 
ince, one  of  his  runners  came  breathlessly  into  my  encamp- 
ment and  delivered  a  message  from  Mireali  ;  the  import  of  it 
was,   "  that    Bebe  Bwana    must  not  forget    the    promise    given 


USERI    BONE 
EAR-RINGS. 


374 


SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 


to  her  friend  Mireali  about  the  mwaviili"  They  are  so  child- 
Hke  in  their  dread  of  disappointment.  Even  this  superior 
man  could  not  permit  me  to  get  beyond  the  reach  of  his 
voice    without    this    parting  admonition. 

Whilst  at  Marungu,  a  Wa-Kiboso  messenger,  attended    by 
several   load-bearers,    came   to  me  from   Sultan    Sina,   carrying 

a  leaf,  bearing  the  imprint  ot  a 
blood-dripped  hand,  and  bring- 
ingf  as  tribute  a  white  goat  and  a 
/|||  sheep,  the  latter  so  fat  it  could 
1 1  scarcely  waddlej  and  its  clumpy 
tail  dragging  on  the  ground, 
akin  to  the  sheep  Herodotus 
describes,  and  a  superb  spear 
and  shield.  He  was  dramatic 
in  oresture  and  almost  classical 
in  figure,  with  an  impressiveness 
in  diction.  Although  his  lan- 
guage was  undoubtedly  circumscribed,  he  transcended  the 
limits  of  mediocre  when  he  announced,  "  I  am  as  Sultan  Sina, 
who  sent  me,  who  bade  me  show  you  this  leaf,  and  bring  you 
this  goat  and  this  sheep  and  this  spear  and  this  shield,  to  let 
Bebe  Bwana  know  Sina,  who  sent  me,  is  the  friend  of  Bebe 
Bwana."  An  emissary,  sent  bv  a  chief,  by  a  sultan,  or  merely 
by  a  master,  has  no  individuality  for  the  time  being  save  that 
which  identifies  him  with  his  master,  until  acquitted  of  his 
task ;  and   in   indicating  such  an  emissary,    it    is    customary   to 


LONG    CHAIN    NECKLACK.S. 


SULTAN    MIREALI. 


75 


say,  "Mireali,  the  man,"  or  "  Fumba,  the  man,"  which  is  equiva- 
lent to  sa_\'ing,  he  is  the  messenger  of  the  Sultan  Mireali,  the 
Sultan  Fumba,  or  whoever  ma)-  have  despatched 
him.  These  messengers  have  the  most  marvel- 
lous gift  of  transmitting  not  only  the  import  of 
the  message,  but  literally  word  for  word,  as  it 
has  been  imparted  to  them  by  those  who  have 
sent  them ;  they  are  perfectly  imbued  with  the 
sender's  thought  before  starting  as  an  envoy  by 
being  obliged  to  repeat  the  message  until  they 
have  proficiently  committed  its  letter  and  sig- 
nificance. 

I   found   it   an  admirable  thin^   when  instruct- 
ing    an     interpreter     respecting    any    important 
^     message,  which  was  to  be  convejed  in  my  pres- 
B     ence    to    the    natives,    to    have    two    interpreters 
^   present,     and     never     heed    the    one    who    was 
interpreting,   but   watch   the    play    of    expression 
3   over  the  countenance  of  the  one  who  was  listen- 
ing,  and    at    the    slightest     intimation     that    the 
jioscHi  CARVED   spokcsHian    had    deviated    from    my  instructions, 
WOODEN  STAFF,   surprise  would  involuntarily  play  over  his    coun- 

MASAI   DANCIN'G  J      L        J 

WAND.    STAFF     teuauce,  and    I    would  check  the   man  and   refer 

COVERED    WITH 

IRON  RINGS.  the  matter  to  the  telltale  listener,  when  he 
would  take  up  the  thread  of  discourse.  In  turn  I  would  watch 
the  other  man,  who  would,  in  a  similar  manner,  reveal  his  com- 
rade's errors  in  discoursing,  who  would  likewise  be  checked  and 


376  SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 

the  task  recommitted  to  the  first  man.  In  this  way  I  avoided 
many  misunderstandings,  and  found  it  an  infalHble  process  oi 
discovering  carelessness  or  trickery.  When  anything  was  lost 
on  the  road,  and  it  was  necessary  to  send  back  for  its  recover)', 
three  men  were  usually  selected  who  were  not  chums,  and  lull 
of  distrust  for  each  other,  in  order  to  make  sure  that  the  article 
would  ever  be  returned,  il   found. 

In  my  caravan  were  a  certain  number  of  fleet  runners  who 
were  allotted  places  near  the  van  and  rear,  in  order  that  I  could 
communicate  with  Hamidi,  who  alwa^'s  brought  up  the  rear,  and 
vice  versa  he  could  communicate  with  me.  It  was  a  pretty 
sight  to  watch  these  runners  disencumbered,  with  only  a  gun 
and  a  staff,  leap  and  bound  through  the  grass  and  over  the 
rocks,  covering  the  distance  like  a  whirlwind,  and  return  with- 
out seemingly  having  stirred  their  pulses  a  particle  ;  and  like  all 
human  beings  in  any  sphere  of  life  who  excel  in  any  one  thing, 
they  were  proud  of  the  renown  they  receive  from  their  com- 
rades for  their  practised  skill. 


CMAKACTERS. 


O/  / 


CHAPTER   XVIII. 


CHARACTERS. 

'ONGING  for  music,  I  was  surprised  to  hear  a 

dainty  little  twaneino-,  like  that  which  en- 
s',-, -  &    & 

''*^Vi^'^  sues  from  thridding  a  harp-string.  It 
was  produced  by  tightening  a 
bow-string  made  of  sinew 
and  striking  it  with  the  ar- 
row, which  would  rebound 
and  strike  rapidly  the  string 
before  a  new  blow  was 
6*^  given.  The  tones  were 
harmonious.  Most  of  the 
native  guides  have  the  trick  of  music-making.  In  passing 
through  Sultan  Fumba's  sultanate,  I  procured  a  pan  pipe, 
sweetly  played  by  a  native,  and  these  two  musical  Instruments 
were  the  only  native  ones  I  saw  or  heard,  yet  the  natives  ac- 
cepted with  delight  mouth  music  boxes  I  gave  them. 

Sultan  Fumba  is  considered  the  most  avaricious  sultan  in 
East  Africa.  However,  before  leaving  this  quaint  character,  I 
was  able  to  persuade  him  to  give  me  every  article  of  clothing-  he 
wore  ;  even  his  crown  or  cap,  which  was  the  same  as  receiving 


378  SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 

the  crown  of  a  European  king  without  his  powers.  He  has  for 
a  prime  minister  the  most  crafty  creature,  who  is  capable  of 
doine  anvthino-  that  is  sneakinof  and  mean,  but  certainly  in- 
capable  of  doing  aught  that  is  manl)-.  I  secured  an  admirable 
portrait  of  him,  his  prime  minister,  and  his  courtiers.  Although 
he  offered  every  inducement  to  get  me  to  tarry  in  his  boiita,  I 
felt  safer  and  happier  to  jjlace  a  long  distance  between  his  boma 
and  my  camp,  and  so  were  my  men,  one  of  whom  advanced  the 
following  :  — 

"  Bebe  Bwana,  natives  no  goodee,  no  cleanee,  smell  very 
bad,  no  washee ;  Bebe  Bwana,  me  no  likee,  no,  no,  no !  " 
Ramezan  accentuated  this  protest  by  significant  gestures, 
clutching  his  nose  between  his  thumb  and  forefinger,  in  order 
to  more  fully  acquit  himself  of  the  meaning  which  his  limited 
English  vocabulary  would  otherwise  fail  to  reveal.  Cunningly, 
after  watching  the  effect  upon  me,  he  insinuatingly  added, 
"  Bebe  Bwana,  Ramezan  cleanee,  very  much  cleanee,  aic  ? 
Bebe  Bwana,  give  me  soap,  me  go  river,  me  wash  table- 
cloth, me  wash  self  and  cloths.  Bebe  Bwana,  me  take  huiiduki 
(gun),  aie  ?  "  All  this  roundabout  method  was  his  naive 
way  of  getting  a  favor  from  me. 

In  truth  this  boy  was  scrupulously  cleanly,  not  onl)-  in  his 
person,  but  in  his  service  to  me  ;  away  out  on  the  plains  or 
in  the  jungle  or  in  the  mountain  fastnesses,  it  mattered  not 
when  or  where,  daily  he  served  my  meals  with  as  much 
precision  and  ceremony  as  though  in  civilized  lands.  Even 
when    I   was    compelled    to    eat    from  the    top  of  boxes   piled 


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CHARACTERS. 


379 


KAMEZAN, 
GUN    BEARER. 


upon   one  another,  and  sat    upon    one,  the    dainty   cloth    was 

spread,  the  napkin  placed,  and  the  usual  array  of  knives, 
n  forks,  and  spoons,  and  the  enamelled  dishes 
changed  for  each  course.  Ramezan  had 
for  an  assistant  a  young  fellow  of  most 
J  general  accomplishments  as  a  body  servant 
and  steward,  called  Baraka.  These  two  at- 
tended to  my  personal  requirements,  and 
were  pretentiouslj'  dubbed  stewards,  looked 
after  my  tent  when    once   set,  and,   in    fact, 

Baraka    assisted    the    headmen    and    askai-i    in    putting    it    up 

and    taking    it    down,    as  well  as   in    arranfrino;    and    collectinp- 

small  luggage  and  all  articles  appertaining 

to    my    personal    household.       Neither    of 

these     servants    were    expected    to    carry 

loads,  and  were  ever  close  upon  my  heels 

ready  to  serve  me.      Ramezan   carried  my 

gun    and    cartridge    belt,  and   a   bottle    of    L 

coffee  to   quench  my  thirst,  his  own  um-      baraka,  mv  shward. 

brella,  and  sandals  and    calabash.      Baraka   carried    one  of  my 

cameras,  a  small   medicine  case,  my  rain   cloak,  a    silk   gown, 

extra  wraps,  and  my  umbrella  when   not  in  use. 

Certainly    my   gun    bearer  had    something   of   a    load  with 

the  gun,  and    thirty  rounds    of  cartridges  in  his   belt,  besides 

his  own    personal    effects,  which    he  would   string    about  him. 

They    always    dressed    in    pure    white,    with    little   white    caps, 

and  did  not  carry  their  own  mats. 


380  SULTAN     TO    SULTAN. 

Put  my  head  outside  of  my  tent  flap  any  hour  of  the  day 
or  night  and  call  "  Boy ! "  instantly  back  would  come  the 
answer,  "  Sabe  !  "  (sir)  ;  and  to  the  very  last  of  my  safari  not 
one  of  my  men  ever  learned  to  answer  me  other  than  "  Sir." 
Even  my  intelligent  interpreter  Josefe  would  reply  from  the 
distance  when  I  would  signal  to  him  by  sounding  my  whistle, 
"Aye,  aye,  sir!"  and  he  never  approached  me  without 
touching  his  hand  to  his  head  and  presenting  arms,  extem- 
porizing for  a  weapon  his  walking  staff. 

The  natives  and  general  porters  had  encompassed  th'e 
bizarre  situation  by  calling  me  Bebe    Bwana.     My  fine   head- 


SULTAN    FUMI3A  S 
CROWN. 


men,  with  an  assumption  to  show  their  superiority  upon 
occasions,  would  struggle  to  say  "  Bebe  Bwana  Sheldune." 
They  never  could  seem  to  reconcile  my  sex  with  my  post, 
which,   in    their    eyes,   indubitably  belonged    to    a    man,   and    I 


CHARACTERS.  38  I 

was  at  first  abashed  to  realize  that  their  natural  protest  kept 
inadvertently  cropping  out  in  one  way  or  another,  despite 
their  obvious  efibrt  to  conceal  their  preconceived  idea  of 
common  propriety  according  to  the  only  usage  they  knew. 
It  is,  therefore,  with  a  sense  of  personal  pride  during  my 
trying  expedition,  surrounded  constantly  by  these  black  porters, 
the  majority  of  them  culled  from  the  roughest  specimens  of 
natives,  deficient  in  intellect,  devoid  of  any  certain  knowledge 
as  to  the  proper  attitude  that  men  should  assume  to  a  white 
woman,  and  many  of  them  full  of  brutish  instincts,  that  they  uni- 
versally treated  me  with  deference  and  obedience.  Never  dur- 
ing my  safari  did  I  see  an  indecent  action  on  the  part  of  my 
porters,  who  were,  of  course,  more  or  less  subservient  to  my 
commands,  but  on  the  part  of  the  natives,  who  were  unre- 
strained and  free  to  do  as  they  listed.  All  this  I  firmly  hold  was 
due  to  a  certain  rcgitnc  I  adopted,  based  upon  the  combined 
experience  of  many  wise  explorers,  and  an  innate  conviction 
that  individual  prestige,  consisting  in  personal  dignity  and 
self-respect  on  the  part  of  a  leader,  must  be  maintained 
wherever  you  may  be,  if  you  expect  to  inspire  those  whom 
you  aim  to  guide  and  command  with  your  personal  importance 
and  might.  Nothing  careless  is  admissible  ;  no  slur  of  words  ; 
no  meaningless  threat ;  no  hesitanc)' ;  no  shirking ;  above 
all,  a  certain  amount  of  silence  which  the  natives  and  the 
ignorant  regard  as  reser\'e  force.  A  leader  is  a  target  of 
observation  and  unmeasured  criticism  from  the  lowest  to  the 
highest    in    the   caravan  ;   and    unless    on   guard    at    all    times, 


382 


SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 


Striving  to  consistently  bear  out  the  ideas  porters,  askari, 
headmen,  and  body  servants  adhere  to  as  becoming  a  mas- 
ter, in  some  guileless  moment  a  single  heedless  action  may 
cause  the  leader  the  chagrin  of  witnessing  throughout  the 
caravan  a  state  of  demoralizing  insubordination.  Insubordina- 
tion in  East  Africa  means  a  very  hazardous  thing  —  possible 
dissolution  of  the  entire  caravan,  and  ruination  to  one's  plans, 


SULTAN    FUiMHA    AND    SUITE. 

if  not  much  bloodshed.  Inflexible  strength  of  will  is  requisite. 
Courage,  knowledge,  dignity,  directness  of  purpose,  resolu- 
tion, justice,  and  that  most  trying  of  all  qualities,  patience, 
and  consideration  for  the  condition  of  minds  of  those  whose 
training    and    capacity  are    in    contradistinction    to    your   own. 


CHARACTERS.  383 

Although  allowing  yourself  to  be  swayed  by  reason,  you  must 
never  vacillate  or  flinch  when  a  difficult  thing  should  be 
done.  Scout  hardships  by  sharing  them,  however ;  show 
appreciation  when  irksome  service  is  rendered.  Never  brow- 
beat and  sneer  at  shortcominos,  but  encourage  and  stimulate 
your  men  to  their  best,  even  if  it  is  done  by  inciting  a  spirit 
of  rivalry.  When  punishment  is  deserved,  calmly  order  it 
quickly  administered,  however,  not  without  premeditation,  then 
afterwards  do  not  persist  in  holding  the  culprit  under  the 
yoke  of  ignominy  if  he  evinces  a  disposition  to  redeem  his 
fault  by  good  behavior.  Zanzibaris  hate  to  be  kicked  and 
cuffed  about,  any  time  preferring  to  stand  up  and  take  ten 
"  sticks "  to  one  kick  or  blow  with  the  fist. 

When  hardships  and  utter  fatigue  pressed  heavily  upon  all, 
yet  it  was  necessary  to  proceed  to  some  known  spot  where 
water  could  be  had,  I  have  said,  "Where  are  the  faithful  men 
in  my  caravan,  where  are  the  brave,  strong  men  who  serve  me 
day  and  night,  among  my  tired,  my  thirsty,  my  hungry,  my 
sick  men,  who  will  march  all  night  to  find  water  and  rest 
to-morrow  ?" 

Every  man  able  to  stand  would  push  forward  to  the  front 
and  signify  his  willingness  to  continue  the  march. 

For  a  long  time  I  was  unable  to  comprehend,  when  a  long 
day's  march  was  at  an  end,  according  to  my  judgment,  if  there 
chanced  to  be  a  stream  fronting  us  or  a  hill  just  ahead,  the  men 
invariably  manifested  a  disposition  to  cross  the  stream  or  ascend 
the  hill.     It  proved  to  be  from  some  notion  of  theirs  to  start  fair 


384  SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 

in  the  morning,  and  in  case  of  streams  to  avoid  the  discomfort 
of  marching  after  an  early  soaking,  for,  as  they  quaintly  say, 
"  Better  a  stone  for  a  pillow  than  for  a  burden  next  sun-up." 
The  philosophy  of  this  was  beyond  question  soon,  as  the  rains 
came  tumblingr  down  durinor  the  nicjht,  making^  the  streams 
swollen,  and  torrential  and  difficult  to  ford  or  swim.  The  hill- 
tops were  chosen  simply  to  give  to  the  entire  caravan  a  vantage 
ground  from  whence  to  reconnoitre  the  country  from  all  points, 
enabling  them  to  descry  attempted  invasion  of  wild  beasts,  or 
frustrate  the  stealthy  surprises  of  hostile  natives. 

Francez,  a  porter,  who  spoke  English  admirably,  a  fact  I  did 
not  discover  for  a  long  time,  used  to  eye  me  constantly  and  ever 
sought  to  pitch  his  little  tent  near  mine.  Notwithstanding  his 
lips  might  be  swollen  and  cracking  and  his  throat  burning  with 
thirst,  when  we  would  reach  a  stream  he  never  quenched  his 
own  thirst  until  he  had  proffered  to  me  a  gourd  full  of  the 
sparkling  water.  So  unremitting  was  his  scrutiny  of  me  and  my 
every  move,  that,  I  confess,  it  at  times  became  most  embarrass- 
ing. Through  his  vigilance,  one  of  my  askari  was  discovered 
in  the  very  act  of  stealing  from  my  tent  while  he  was  on  duty. 
Through  his  lynx  eyes  I  was  saved  being  assassinated,  one 
night,  when  a  thief  crept  into  my  tent  to  steal  my  gun,  and  was 
about  to  stab  me,  when  he  found  I  was  awake  and  saw  him. 
Francez  was  in  my  tent,  like  a  Hash,  and  almost  strangled  the 
poor  wretch.  He  called  my  attention  to  various  things,  and 
brought  me  two  prismatic  caterpillars  ;  their  bodies  were  five 
inches    long,  white,  and    the    nodules    were   prismatic,  but   the 


CHARACTERS.  385 

colors  not  very  vivid.  Unfortunately,  I  had  no  means  of  pre- 
serving them,  nor,  in  truth,  any  other  specimens.  Another  day 
he  brought  me  a  bird's-nest,  like  a  tailor  bird,  and  anon  pointed 
out  a  lot  of  brilliant  red  crabs..  He  was  also  quite  as  much  of  a 
dabster  in  making  fire  with  fire  sticks  as  the  natives.  A  native 
chanced  to  pass,  the  lobes  of  whose  ears  had  been  torn  out  by 
weighty  ear-rings,  and  had  been  mended  by  cutting-  off  from  the 
ragged  fracture  a  tiny  slice  of  the  flesh  and  joined  with  porcu- 
pine quills,  and  bidding  fair  to  heal  by  "first  intention";  this 
poor  native  was  lured  by  Francez  into  my  presence,  and 
wheedled  to  taking  out  the  quills  and  separate  the  broken  parts 
to  show  "  Bebe  Bwana  how  it  was  done."  He  quaintly  called 
my  attention  to  some  native  women  inebriated,  and  said,  "They 
are  black  women  ;  the  white  women  never  forget  themselves 
any  more  than  the  black  sultans." 

It  is  a  singular  thing  that  the  native  women,  when  into.xicated, 
reveal  a  certain  lack  of  dignity  and  helpless  inebriation  that  the 
men  escape.  They  seem  thoroughly  brutalized  and  helpless  to 
maintain  anything  like  personal  dignity  or  self-respect ;  whereas 
a  chief  drunk  is  always  a  chief,  he  never  loses  the  conscious- 
ness of  his  own  greatness.  I  have  seen  a  man,  who  appeared 
almost  an  imbecile  under  the  influence  of  liquor,  shake  himself 
out  of  it  all,  roused  into  a  sudden  consciousness  by  some  one 
exclaiming  that  another  chief  he  was  unfriendly  to  had  greater 
powers  than  himself,  and,  with  his  returned  rationality,  condign 
the  promulgator  of  such  an  idea  to  some  great  task,  or  e.xact  a 
tribute  of  cows  as  punishment  for  his  indiscretion.     This   pecul- 


386  SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 

iarity  may  be  accounted  for  from  the  fact  that  the  women  let 
themselves  go  when  they  commence  to  drink,  having  no  pres- 
tige to  maintain,  with  no  desire  to  overcome  the  intoxication, 
but  rather  to  assist  its  progress.  However,  the  next  morning, 
after  a  nightly  bout,  they  appear  as  fresh  and  sober  as  if  they 
had  never  tasted  their  poinhc  cups. 

However,  drunk  or  sober,  profanity  is  unknown,  although 
they  have  a  qualified  equivalent  in  "you  goat,"  "you  cow," 
"you  son  of  no  man's  virility."  This,  however,  is  the  same 
among  all  peoples  without  a  God,  or  a  settled  idol,  or  any  idea 
of  his  Satanic  highness.  It  is  the  privileged  vice  of  those  who 
know  Christianity.  Strange  to  relate,  the  natives  never  kiss, 
moved  by  tender  sentiment.  In  lieu  of  kissing,  they  may  be 
observed  to  clasp  the  palms  of  their  hands  spasmodically,  and 
impetuously  unclasp  and  press  them  wide  open  over  the 
shoulders,  across  the  knees,  or  upon  the  breast  of  the  person 
they  yearn  to  manifest  their  affection  for. 

Francez  brought  me,  sewed  up  in  a  bit  of  snake-skin,  a  per- 
fumed charm  to  hang  on  a  tree  facing  my  tent,  to  ward  off  an 
impending  storm,  and  circled  my  tent  several  times,  mumbling 
some  invocation,  scattering  grass  as  he  walked.  This  struck  me 
as  being  very  like  the  Japanese  custom  of  hanging  little  paper 
messages,  variously  addressed,  upon  trees. 

My  regular  caravan  numbered  one  hundred  and  fifty- 
three  persons,  all  told.  The  official  roll  call  and  pay  list 
may  not  be  entirely  uninteresting  to  my  readers;  the  names 
are  phonetically  spelled. 


D 

Q 
< 


o 


o 

3 


►J 
< 


H 
D 


CHARACTERS. 


387 


1  Hassan  Hamis. 

2  Tunda  Yadi. 

^  Oomara  Mzuana. 


4  Demas. 

5  Hamis  bin  Afman. 

6  All  bin   Hamad. 

7  Semba  bin   Seligman. 

8  Sadi  bin  Seligman. 

9  Yabon  Lelli. 

10  Sadi  Wadyuma. 

1 1  Meni  Youma  Kebanda. 

12  Suadi  bin  Youma. 

13  Soda  Wadiherie. 

14  Hamis  Wadi  .Suroro. 

15  Baraka  Montonana. 

16  Hanna  Amore   Kombo. 

17  Sadi  Wadi  Farodi. 

18  Dosere  Wampere. 

19  Marico. 

20  Unledi. 

21  Munombe  bin   Kombo. 

22  Hamid  Unquezilla. 

23  Selligman   Mamwiina. 

24  Baraka  bin  Seligman. 

25  Furiozo  Wadehaha. 


ROLL  CALL. 
PORTERS. 

26  Abdallah  bin   .Selim. 

27  Mabruka  Imperia. 

28  Kara  (Samson  of  caravan). 

29  Franczes  bin  Sadi. 


30  Munisa  bin  Muita. 

3 1  Mari   Marabo. 

32  Zied  bin  Yuma. 

2)2,  Songoro  Maneyega. 

34  Sali  bin   Massib. 

35  Usofo  bin   Umari. 

36  Hassand  Ballonza. 

37  Fernza  Mardaneff. 

38  Safi   Mhezila. 

39  Wadzuna. 

40  Farnza  bin  Sorora. 

41  Ebosie. 

42  Sali  M'gazilia. 

43  Manboy  Wah !   Shehongo. 

44  Sadi  bin   Hamid. 

45  Hamid  bin   Hamid. 

46  Hamis  Wadzied. 

47  Francez      (spoke     English 

well). 

48  Uled  bin  Yuma. 

49  Hanamoura. 


i88 


SULTAN    TO    SULTAN. 


50  James. 

51  Bryan  bin   Mousa. 

52  Hassan  bin   Mufta. 

53  Seru. 

54  Sucl  Balleous. 

55  Dahoma  bin  Sellim. 

56  Munynamyezia. 

57  Yana  Hairy. 

58  Yuma  Wad  La  Edie. 

59  M'Guya. 

60  Marbruka  Wadzie. 

61  Magaza. 

62  Hamis  Sali. 

63  Sadalla  bin  Seligman. 

64  Yacont  Samacie. 
6s  Yuma. 

66  Fernza  bin   Muguro  INlari. 

67  Hamis  Kombo. 

68  Umari  bin  Abdallali. 

69  Usinga  bin  Sali. 

70  Usinga. 

7 1  Winecomdo. 

72  Feruse  Ballons. 

73  Min  bin  Gainie. 

74  M'Selliam. 

75  Uman  bif  Tuffick. 

76  Sehaba. 


■]■]  Abad. 

78  Umanie  Wad  Suboro. 

79  Adie  bin   Hamis. 

80  Hamad. 

81  Abdallah  bin  Yuma. 

82  Songoro   (prey  of  lions). 

83  Hamis  Impera. 

84  Wadyuma. 

85  Kamonice  bin   Unsa. 

86  Yuma  Wad  -Sadi. 

87  Nasib  bin  Ulali. 

88  Mabruka  Nufta. 

89  AUamao  Muongo. 

90  Muntozo. 

9 1  Kerv  Voto. 

92  Menahadi. 

93  Sodie. 

94  Menahazy. 

95  Sali  Mohozo. 

96  Mugumbo  Murarba. 

97  Munya  Shumarie. 

98  Hassand  bin  Abdalla. 

99  Hamis  bin  Adie. 
100  Ferusa  Surmari. 
loi  Alrnass. 

102  Umari. 

103  Simba  Madmamba. 


CHARACTERS. 


389 


04  Abdallah  bin  Abdad. 

05  Minvv  Hat-tib. 

06  Mabruka  Wad  Hat-tib. 

07  Ali  bin  Hassan. 

08  Kermut  (Clement,  cook's 

boy). 

09  Abdallah  (cook). 

10  Baraka  (steward). 

11  Ramezan  (steward). 

12  Lidia  (woman). 

13  Beda  (woman). 

14  Suzzan  (woman). 

15  Burt  Hamis  (woman). 

16  Burt  Hamis  Mzuria  (wo- 

man). 

17  Abdallah. 

18  Hamis  bin  Barcada. 

19  Nedia  Hamis. 

20  Hamadia. 


121 
122 
123 
124 

125 
126 
127 
128 
129 
130 

131 
132 

^33 
134 
135 
136 
137 
138 


Songora  bin  Hamis. 
Wadeyuma. 
Demodio  Sadi. 
Almass. 

Morboro  du  Kombo. 
Sali  bin  Yongo. 
Winum  Shumaro. 
Sani  bin  Abdulla. 
Marbruki  Wadi  Haftu. 
Hamis  bin  Adie. 
Fenesa  de  Sumara. 
Ali  bin  Hassand. 
Simba  Vidi  Mombo. 
Darfurf  Wad  Ballouse. 
Gomorez. 

Wadicu  bin  Huma. 
Abdalla  bin  Hamis. 
Winy  Hastibu. 


ASKARI. 

Hamis  bin  Abdallah. 

Hassan. 

Adie. 

Winikondo. 

Safe. 

Sumallie. 


3 go  SULTAN    TO    SULTAN. 

ASKARi  {continued I. 
Maza  bin  Kombo. 
Hamidi. 
Hamis  bin  Baraca   (Pagaiza). 

(Took  the  place  of  the  thief.) 

NEPARA. 

Hamidi  bin  Ali  (headman  of  headmen). 

Mabruka  Keseysah. 

Bin  Allah. 

Ali. 

Josefe  (chief  interpreter). 

Umbi  Bwana  (Masai  interpreter). 

In    addition  to  these  men  there  were  usually  forty  others, 
comprised  of  volunteers  and  guides,  and  porters'  slaves. 


SULTAN      jMANDARA     OF     MOSCHl. 


391 


CHAPTER   XIX. 

Sin,TAN  MANDARA  OF  MOSCHl. 

would  be  impossible  to  narrate  half  of 
rumors  current  as  to  the  extremely 
crafty  and  atrocious  deeds  of  the  am- 
bitious, brutish,  and  abominable  Sul- 
tan Mandara ;  but  without  doubt  he 
is  much  feared  for  his  cleverness 
and  duplicity.  He  is  a  keen,  intel- 
igent  observer,  and  a  deep  student 
yf.:i*in  his  wa)-,  despite  his  marked 
deficiency  in  uprightness,  justice, 
mercy,  or  morality.  Proficiency  in  crafts  and  general  knowl- 
edge in  many  diverse  avenues  have  been  and  ever  will  be 
during  his  life  the  keynote  of  his  power  among  the  Chaga 
tribes.  In  the  old  feudal  da}'s  of  his  tyrannical  sway  he  was 
a  treasonable  disturber  of  all  covenants  between  these  tribes, 
carrying  whatever  he  listed  by  force  of  arms,  united  with 
chicanery,  and  was  seldom  defeated.  When  he  wanted  war- 
riors he  levied  on  some  minor  tribe,  who  dare  not  refuse  his 
mandates  as  they  valued  their  freedom  or  their  lives.  He 
exercised  his  rights  as  potentate  of  Moschi  with  an  imperious, 


392 


SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 


overbearing  despotism  which  has  about  come  to  an  end.  Dur- 
ing my  sojourn  at  Moschi  he  set  a  trap  into  which  he  liimself 
untowardly  fell,  in  order  to  possess  a  ([uantity  of  ivor)-  he  had 
received  information  of,  through  the  good  offices  of  some  of  his 
spies,  certain  minor  sultan  possessed  and  had  buried,  as  is  the 
African  custom  when  treasure  is  to  be  safe  gruarded,  awaitine 
an  opportunity  to  dispose  of  it  to  a  coast-bound  caravan,  and 


MANDAKA,    SULIAN    OK    MOSCHI. 

who  had  injudiciously  discovered  its  hiding-place  to  prying  eyes 
in  his  eagerness  to  sell  it  to  one  of  my  headmen. 

Mandara's  avarice  set  him  to  intriguing  in  a  hazardous 
fashion.  He  sent  his  prime  minister  and  other  important  head- 
men of  his  court  to  the  unfortunate  betrayed  sultan  to  inform 
him  that  the  Germans  were  now,  as  he  knew,  the  rulers  of 
Chaga  land,  and  that  he  must  pay  a  tribute  of  fort)'-five  tusks 


SULTAN     MANDARA     OF     MOSCHI.  393 

of  pcmba  (elephant  ivory)  not  under  two  fasilla  (seventy 
pounds)  in  weight  each  antl  every  tusk.  Howeve  ■,  as  he, 
Mandara,  was  ivcll  with  the  Germans,  he  would  graciously 
undertake  to  oblige  the  sultan,  who  was  his  blood-brother 
as  well  as  his  old  friend,  b)'  convej'ing  the  ivory  by  his 
safari  to  the  Germans.  In  a  purely  confidential  way  the 
prime  minister  was  charged  to  convey  to  the  si.ltan  further 
information  of  the  Germans'  dealing  with  their  t\rann\',  and 
that  they  were  about  to  descend  upon  him  ai.d  his  tribe 
without  merc)',  because  he  had  been  tardy  in  sending  this 
tribute,  exactl}'  as  the)*  had  descended  upon  the  Masai,  "with 
their  big  guns  that  killed  a  thousand  men  at  one  boom." 
It  sufficed.  The  ivory  was  immediately  committed  to  Man- 
dara's  cara\an,  and  the  terrorized  sultan  entreated  the  prime 
minister  to  enjoin  upon  the  great  and  powerful  Mandara 
the  necessit)-  of  using  his  influence  to  stave  oft  the  wrath  of 
the  Germans  in  his  behalf,  and  he  would  send  as  a  reward  four 
fine  milch  cows.  A  few  da)'s  after  this  occurrence,  Mandara 
sent  to  the  German  station,  saying  such  a  sultan  had  sent 
through  him  a  tribute  to  them  of  twenty  tusks  of  fine  ivory. 
They  were  received,  but  in  a  brief  time  the  (~)fificer  in  command, 
Baron  von  Witzslaben,  learned  the  true  inwardness  of  the 
transaction  through  hearing  of  a  document  written  by  Mandara, 
—  who  is  one  of  the  few  natix'es  who  write, —  and  demanded 
the  instant  disgorgement  of  his  ill-gotten  plunder.  Seeing  that 
he  had  overreached  himself,  Mandara  feigned  a  severe  attack 
of  fever,  —  fever  is  always  an  excuse  in  Africa  for  disinclination. 


394  Sn.'l'AN     TO     SIT.TAN. 


rA  disabilit)-,  and  failure, — and  pretended  he  coultl  not 
then  attend  to  tlie  dcMnantl.  P'our  Gern^an  as/car/ were 
sent  with  the  officer's  compliments,  and  the  kind  conso- 
lation that  if  his  Highness  was  so  ill  and  ditl  not  see  his 
\va\'  to  make  speedy  reco\er\-  before  sundown,  if  the: 
balance  of  the  pcinba  was  not  forthcoming,  it  would 
not  matter  much,  gimpowder  tea  would  be  ser\ed ; 
and  the  German  batteries  were,  with  much  parade, 
conspicuously  turneil  in  readiness  upon  Mandara's  homa 
during  the  passage  of  the  official  message.  Of  course, 
his  life  would  be  worthless  to  him  if  he  was  so  pros- 
trated ;  death  woukl  be  a  relief  to  him.  An  answer 
came   speedily  back  to  the  station   from   Mandara:  — 

"Bwana  Deitch,  wait  till  noon,  soon  "Cne  pciiiha  will 
be  sent,  and  two  cows  as  well.  " 

Meanwhile  Mandara's  eldest  son  living —  he  is  re- 
puted to  have  murdered  several  of  his  sons,  fearful 
that  in  order  tf)  g^tin  accession  to  his  possessions  and 
sultanate  they  might  be  tempted  to  kill  him — was 
enticed  into  the  German  bonia  and  genteelly  held  as 
hostaee  for  anotlier  ofience  committetl  b\-  liis  tricky 
father,  that  the  officer  in  charge  likewise  determined 
should  be  adjusted  without  evasion  or  delay. 

Intrigue  seems  one  of  Mandara's  fundamental  traits 
of  character,  and  if  not  already  will  very  .soon  attain 
jfa   1     a  climax  the    Germans   will    not    tolerate.      Either    Sina 

AFRICAN 

SPEAR,     of  Kiboso,  or  Mireali  of  Murungu,  are  destined    in  the 


SUI.TAN    MANDAKA    OF    MOSCHI. 


395 


course  of  events  to  depose  this  arrant  knave,  if  forsooth  the 
inexorable  Germans  do  not  annihilate  him  and  his  tribe. 
Presumably  he  thinks,  with  his  civilized  brothers,  "The  king 
can  do  no  wrong. "  However,  the  man  is  not  totally  bad, 
and  should  be  judged  in  accordance  with  his  environments 
morally  and  physicall)-,  and  in  a  manner  from  his  own  stand- 
point, and  the  ethics  ol  the  code  of  the  natives  as  they  seem 
to  be,  and  not  from  the  remote  standpoint  of  European 
enlightenment  or  by  European   sentiment  or  conventions. 

Mandara  had  been  exceedingly  curious  to  see  a  white 
woman,  and  he  had  offered  a  gratuity  of  forty,  eighty,  and 
even  one  himdred  cows  if  some  Arab  caravan  would  fetch  him 
a  white  wife.  This  fact,  which  was  patent  to  everybody  in 
East  Africa  who  knew  aught  of  Mandara,  had  filled  the 
white  men  whom  1  met  with  considerable  apprehension 
lest  I  should  be  detained  by  him  at  Moschi  or  waylaid  by 
his  orders.  I  was  very  glad  to  be  forewarned,  and  determined, 
in  my  own  mind,  to  e.xercise  every  possible  precaution 
and    be    more    than    guarded    when    I    visited    this    sultan. 

At  Moschi  I  was  the  CTuest  of  the  German  commander,  and 
he  was  very  averse  to  my  crossing  the  ravine  separating  his 
station  from  Mandara's  hoina,  unless  I  went  under  the  pro- 
tection of  the  German  soldiers.  As  my  policy  had  been  to 
go  solus  to  \'isit  sultans  of  importance,  without  the  protection 
of  any  outside  power,  without  government  headiuen  or  soldiers, 
I  declined  this  proposition ;  and  after  much  solicitation  and 
man\'     presents     from     Mandara,    consisting     of     cows,    goats. 


596 


SUI.TAN     Tl  )     SULTAN. 


sheep,  beautiful  furs,  I  determined  to  visit  him,  and  did  so, 
attended  by  twelve  soldiers  and  an  interpreter  of  my  own 
caravan.  Baron  Von  Witzslaben  said  before  I  left  the  en- 
cam])ment.  "Mark  you,  I  have  my  cannon  set;  it  )ou  do  not 
return  within  the  two  hours,  I  shall  send  a  squad  ot  soldiers  to 
demand  your  delivery,  and  will  throw  Mandara  in  chains.  If 
he  refuses,  I  shall  forcibly  liberate  you,  bombard  his  honia, 
annihilate  him  and  his  iniquitous  subjects.  I  consider  it  at 
best  most  rash  that  )'ou   are    going    with  your  paltry  corps  of 

askari  and  few  at- 
tendants, but  do  not 
ha\e  an)'  fear.  I  will 
protect  you  if  occa- 
sion arises." 

I    thought,  as  I 
was  struoolino-  down 
the  m  o  u  n  t  a  i  n  -  s  i  d  e 
picking  ni)'  way  over 
HELD  IX  i;omd.v;e.  thc  strcaui  at  the  bot- 

tom ot  the  ravine,  and  struggling  up  the  path  leading  to 
Mandara's  boma,  with  the  natives  of  his  tribe  Hanking  the 
pathway  in  droves,  that  jierhaps  it  zvas  rash,  and  alter  a 
few  words  of  caution  given  to  headman  and  interpreter  as 
to  what  I  expected  them  to  ilo  in  case  we  were  tlebarred 
retin'n,  we  had  attained  the  gateway  of  Mandara's  honia  and 
found  a  hearty  welcome  awaiting  us.  All  the  important  men 
of  his    tribe  were  arra)ed  in  state  finery,  and  they  conducted 


SULTAN    MANDARA    OF    MOSCHI.  397 

me,  with  considerable  pomp  and  many  salaams,  to  Man- 
dara,  who  was  prostrate  by  paralysis,  unable  to  move  his 
boil)-  below  his  waist,  excepting  through  the  assistance  ot 
his  attendants,  in  a  tlark,  gruesome  hut, — his  Swahali  liouse 
had  been  destroyed  by  Sultan  Sina,  o[  Kiboso, — stutt)-  and 
malodorous,  as  are  all  native  habitations  ;  he  was  1)  ing  on  a 
lono-  Arab  kitanda  (bed),  co\'ered  with  animal  hides  tor 
warmth,  and  a  smoky  fire  in  the  centre  of  the  room.  In 
his  helplessness  and  emaciation,  one  could  scarcely  believe 
this  man  possessed  the  power  to  terrorize  all  the  lesser 
chiefs  of  the  Kilimanjaro  district,  and  from  recent  ac- 
counts cause  the  Germans  a  large  expenditure  of  gun- 
powder. He  has  lost  one  eye,  but  the  other  is  so  bright 
and  alert,  with  such  a  strange  furtive  olance  in  it,  whilst  a 
sinister  smile  always  discloses  his  teeth,  with  an  amount  of 
nervous  energy  and  crafty  look  about  his  mouth,  that  one 
cannot  help  but  feel  that  he  is  in  the  presence  of  a  man 
of  prowess  and  full  ot  trickery  and  cunning,  and  capable  of 
cruel  subtertuges  and  brutal  treacher)-. 

He  was  fairly  jubilant  on  seeing  me,  extemled  his  hand, 
but  in  a  piteous  voice  said,  "Ah,  now  I  have  lived  to  see 
a  white  woman,  and  here  I  am  so  helpless."  He  immedi- 
ately asked  me  to  take  off  mj-  gloves.  He  examined  my 
fincrers,  and  a  sinoujar  coincidence  occurred  in  the  fact  that  I 
wore  an  old-fashioned  seal  ring  surrounded  with  diamonds, 
which  seemed  on  a  casual  glance  to  be  a  counterpart  of  the 
signet    ring    presented  to   him    b)    Emperor    William  ;   and    he 


398 


SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 


■^aid  at  once,  "Ah,  you   are  the  friend 
of   the   kino."       I    said,   "  Cer- 
tainl)',     1     am     the     friend     of 
many  Icings,  and  I  trust  I  may 
call  Mandara  my  friend."    And, 
a  thing  most  peculiar,  he  seized 
both    my   hands    and    spat   upon 
them.      The    blood    flushed  to    m)- 
cheek,  and  in  a  moment  ot   anger 
I     rose    to     my    feet    and     took    my 
pistol  from  my  belt,  when   my  head- 
man .said,   "Re  content,  Bebe  Bwana; 
Mandara    never    was    known    to    spit 
on    any   one's    hands  before   in    that 
manner;   it   is    an    evidences    ot    hom- 
age; do  not  be  angry."     I   will  have 
more  to  say    of   this    custom    later 
on,  but  it  was  ilecmed  the  greatest 
evidence    of     humiliation    and 
homage     that     this      chief 
i\\\j  could    hax^e     ])Ossibl\'    paid 
me,  loathsome  as  it  seemed 
to  me. 

After  resuming  m\'  self- 
possession,    he    turned   to    me 
/  and     said,     would     the     white 
'     (jueen    let    him   see    her    hair. 


NAIIVE-M.MIE    WOODEN    SPOON.S. 


SLM.TAN     MANDAKA     OI-'     MdSlHI. 


399 


I  let  it  down  and  pullfd  it  well  about  me,  and  he  said, 
"Ngai,  Ngai  I  it  is  the  threads  of  the  sun's  light";  and  he 
said,  "May  I  touch  it?"  And  waiving-  for  once  my  rule  of 
noli  nic  taiigcrc,  1  answered,  "  Certainly."  He  stroked  it  in  a 
strange,  caressing  way,  and  called  out  to  summon  his  wives 
to  come  and  look  at  the  white  woman's  tresses.  When  I 
gathered  them  loosely  up  antl  replaced  the  pins,  he  indulged 
in  an  undertone  conversation  with  these  Avomen,  who,  over- 
come by  curiosity,  ventured  to  ask  why  I  did  not  shave  off 
my  hair,  as  they  did  theirs  ;  and  IMandara  sneeringly  retorted, 
"It  is  too  mziiria  sana  (it  is  too  beautiful);  why  should  she  cut 
it  oft?"  And  then  he  continued  in  an  incisive  tone,  "  She  is  a 
white  queen,  and  you  are  all  slaves  and  black."  He  quaintl)- 
drew  himself  up  in  a  helpless  way  on  his  elbows,  turned 
towards  me,  and  said,  "  I  have  expected  \'ou  for  many  moons. 
The  last  moon,  when  it  kissetl  Kibo,  brought  a  message  to 
me  and  said,  'The  white  queen  is  coming.'"  I  stopped  him 
and  queried,  "  Mandara,  was  the  message  not  brought  b)' 
one  of  )our  runners?" 

And  he  laughed  and  said,  "Perhaps,  perhaps.  ISut  the 
message  came,  Bebe  Bwana  ;  I  knew  that  \'ou  were  to  pay  me 
a  visit."  To  this  I  protested  that,  had  he  not  been  elisabletl.  I 
should  never  have  condescended  to  take  the  trouble  to  visit  him. 
It  was  his  place  to  have  |jaid  me  a  state  visit,  with  pomp  and 
ceremony,  and  I  should  have  received  him  in  court  dress,  such 
as  white  queens  wear. 

"  Ah,  ah,"  he  dolorously  replied,  "  to  show  you  how  much  1, 


400  SULTAN     TO     SUI.TAN. 

Mandara,  the  greatest  sultan  of  Chaga,  care  for  this  honor,  I  will 
give  )'ou  the  last  piece  of  work  I  shall  ever  execute."  It  was  a 
bracelet  cut  into  diagonal  strands  on  the  surface,  made  of  an 
amalgam  of  sih-er  and  pewter,  which  he  placed  himself  upon 
my  arm,  and,  assisted  by  one  of  his  attendants,  bent  with  long, 
slender  pincers  so  that  it  clasped  close,  and  said,  ''  Wear  this 
until  Mandara  follows  the  sun  home,  and  nobody  in  his  province 
will  ever  dare  to  do  you  harm." 

He  possessed  many  strange  jewels,  contained  in  a  little 
casket  he  fingered  over,  that  had  been  given  to  him  by  Euro- 
pean officers,  hunters,  Arabs,  and  from  various  other  sources, 
including  the  princely  gifts  sent  b)-  the  Emperor  William. 
After  pre.senting  Mandara  with  a  jewelled  sword  and  a  ring  \ut 
coveted,  and  I  was  on  the  eve  ot  leaving,  he  requested  me  to 
give  him  m)'  picture  to  put  with  a  collection  of  prints  he  pos- 
sessed ol  white  women.  "  Yes,  )ou  shall  have  m\-  photograph 
if  )ou  let  me  take  )oiu's."  In  a  tone  ot  injured  \'anit)',  he  said, 
"  But  see,  Bebe  Bwana,  I  cannot  stand,  I  cannot  hold  m\-  spear, 
I  cannot  aim  m)'  bitudiiki"  (gun);  and  he  signed  one  ot  his 
wives  to  cast  aside  the  large  Hyrax  fur  robes  that  covered  him, 
exposing  his  mere  skeletons  of  legs.  "  Once  I  was  the  deer  ot 
the  mountain;  animal  nf)r  bird  could  go  where  I  could  not. 
I  have  stood  on  out;  mountain  and  killetl  ni)*  enem)'  who  stood 
opposing  me  on  another  mountain.  I,  Mandara,  am  the  great- 
est finidi  living!  I,  Mandara,  am  the  greatest  warrior  and 
fear  not  Sina,  and  fear  not  Masai  I  I,  Mandara,  am  the  great- 
est   sultan." 


SULTAN      MAXHAkA     OF     MdSCHl.  4OI 

He  tried  to  get  me  to  consent  to  take  a  photograph  of  his 
eldest  son,  tlie  scion  of  his  Highness,  protesting  that  he  had 
looked  like  the  crown  prince  when  he  was  his  age.  After  much 
parley,  I  procured  a  sketch  which  is  a  ver)'  good  counterpart 
of  Mandara,  the  egotistical  invalid,  stripped  of  the  glory  of  his 
own  opinion.  I  sent  him  m)'  promised  photograph,  accom- 
panied b)'  five  hundred  grains  of  quinine,  and  tea,  sugar,  and 
blankets  and  cloths  he  coveted  ver)-  much,  and  received  in  re- 
turn many  additional  beautiful  presents,  among  which  was  his 
own  personal  fine  spear,  many  goats,  sheep,  and  tusks  of  i\-or\'. 
Mandara  is  very   boastful  of   a  num-     ^  ,.^^^  /^ 


ber  ot  connectingr  natiu'al  caves  be-  -v  •-.>  jx's 
neath  the  hill  he  occupies.  I  was  ^^k^i^f^A  /^ 
not  permitted  to  pass  the  entrance  of 
the  first.  The  story  runs  that  during 
an  attack  by  his  enemies,  he  has  had 
them  allured  into  these  ca\-es  where  arab  flags  of  welcome. 
a  large  posse  of  his  warriors,  there  lying  in  ambush,  charged 
upon  them  and  killed  several  hundred.  These  caves  recall 
the  following  circumstance :  Mandara  is  the  most  dissolute 
sultan  I  met.  He  respects  nobody's  rights,  and  does  whatever 
he  lists ;  frequently  has  raided  adjacent  tribes,  and  captured 
the  )'oung  girls  and  women,  driving  them  into  his  harem  like 
cattle,  and  when  he  has  wearied  of  his  captives  he  would  mag- 
nanimously bestow  them  upon  his  favorites,  who  are  debased 
enough  to  consider  it  a  great  favor  and  a  decidedly  economical 
plan  in  comparison  to  procuring  wives  by  purchase. 


402 


SL'I.TAN     TO     Si:  I, TAN. 


The  women  were  not  fine,  and  looked  dejected.  The  beads 
and  other  gifts  I  bestowed  upon  them  were  accepted  with  avidity. 
I  was  able  to  procure  a  woman's  ample  kaniki  (blue  cotton), 
beautifully  embroidered  with  multicolored  beads  in  Turkish 
designs.  In  consequence  ot  the  sudden  cold  winds  that  sweep 
over  this  district,  men  and  women  wear  furs  or  hides  as  do 
the  Masai,  quantities  of  Chaga  chains,  and  lustre  beads,  pew- 
ter and  brass  ornaments.  Their 
burial  customs  are  the  same  as  all 
throuo'h  Chatia  land. 

The)  all  seemed  uneasy  and 
ilubious  what  attitude  the  Ger- 
mans would  take  towards  them ; 
and  well  the)'  might.  I  was  able 
to  procun;  a  pair  of  native-made 
goat-skin  bellows  from  Manclara's 
chief  fiuidi,  some  fine  bows  and 
arrows,  and  several  Colobus  white 
and  sable  monkey- skins.  I  made  blood-brotherhood  with 
Mandara's  son,  which  was  the  same  as  though  the  ceremony 
had    been    between    the    sultan    and    myselt. 

The  invalid  of  my  cara\an  was  much  terrified  b)'  a  native 
woman's  constant  ai)i)arition  before  her  tent  during  the  night 
marches.  This  poor  .soul  had  lost  her  reason  during  a  tragic 
encounter  with  lions  in  the  jungles,  whilst  she  ami  her  son 
were  in  flight  from  slave  raiders,  I  believe,  and  they  were 
picked    up    by   an    English    caravan    and    turned    over    to    the 


l^iSiL 


i:lue  cotton  bead  and  chain 

EMIlROIDF.RKn     WOMAN'S    CL01H. 


SULTAN     MANDARA     OF     MOSCHI.  403 

Germans.  This  mad  woman,  although  harmless,  had  some 
vague  idea  coursing  through  her  disordered  brain  to  carry  off 
the  invalid  to  some  sequestered  place.  Indeed  several  attempts 
were  made  during  my  safari,  by  natives,  to  kidnap  this  same 
fever-stricken  one ;  augmenting  my  vigilance  as  well  as  my 
apprehensions  and  cares.  Dr.  Baxter  had  assisted  me  by 
medical  attendance  from  Taveta  to  Moschi  when  the  case  had 
reached  its  crisis  ;  however,  the  necessities  of  ambulance  care 
could  not  be  relinquished  in  this  case  until  Pangani  was  reached 
when  homeward    bound. 

One  of  the  most  touching  incidents  came  under  my  per- 
sonal observation  whilst  at  Moschi,  respecting  a  little  native 
child,  who  had  been  captured  by  a  slave-raider  with  other 
unfortunates,  and  freed  by  the  German  government.  The 
missionaries  are  generally  made  custodians  of  the  freed  slaves, 
and  receive  from  the  government  a  pittance  of  not  over  five 
dollars  (one  pound),  I  believe,  to  take,  educate,  rear,  clothe, 
and  feed  them.  In  this  way  it  happened  that  the  celebrated 
mission  doctor,  Wm.  Baxter,  who  has  spent  the  best  part 
of  his  adult  life  in  Africa,  during  a  professional  visit  to  the 
station  where  the  little  child,  not  over  six  years  of  age, 
had  been  placed,  noticed  him,  and  the  child  was  immediately 
drawn  by  the  doctor's  kindliness  and  evinced  love  for  chil- 
dren, and  became  deeply  attached  to  him. 

When  the  doctor  had  finished  the  duties  of  his  profes- 
sional visit,  and  returned  to  his  own  post,  distant  from  the 
place  where  he  met  the  child  something  like  twelve  or  fifteen 


404 


SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 


miles,  and  over  a  very  difficult  range  of  rugged  steep  foot- 
hills of  Kilimanjaro,  intersected  by  deep  ravines,  gulleys,  and 
water  courses,  as  well  as  being  infested  by  wild  animals, 
a  day  or  so  elapsed  when  one  night  he  was  aroused  by 
his  attendants,   who    brought    a   little  native  waif  utterly  worn 


OITT    OF    THF.    FOREST. 

out  by  fatigue  and  hunger.  It  was  his  little  friend,  who, 
unattended,  had  braved  the  terrors  of  night  and  prowling 
animals,  and  the  hardships  of  a  perilous  journey,  as  he 
followed  the  tracks  of  the  good  doctor,  guided  only  by  his 
child's  affection  and   innate  instinct  of  trapper. 

Touched  as  the  doctor  was  by  compassion  for  the  devoted 
brave  little  soul,  after  the  child  had  recuperated  it  was  neces- 


SULTAN     MANDARA     OF     MOSCHI. 


405 


sary  that  he  should  return  him  to  his  legitimate  protectors. 
With  much  grief  and  disappointment  to  the  child,  and  reluc- 
tance on  the  part  of  the  doctor,   this  was  done. 

Before  a  fortnight  had  elapsed,  again  during  the  blackest 
hours  of  night  the  child  put  in  an  appearance  at  Moschi,  the 
doctor's  station,*  having  eluded  the  vigilance  of  his  warders,  and 
ignoring  the  terrors  he  had  encountered  during  his  former  es- 
capade. Heroic  little  chap  !  The  doctor  could  no  longer  resist 
his  pleading  words  of  love  and  desire  to  be  his  mioto  (little 
boy),  and  took  measures  to  secure  the  right  of  guardianship. 

When  I  saw  this  child  he  was  trudging  up  a  steep  hill, 
bearing  on  his  staff  just  like  a  little  old  man,  his  face  radiant 
with  a  welcome  for  the  doctor,  who  had  been  on  a  long 
journey.     What  will  the  future  of  this  child  be,   I  wonder! 


♦Since  this  went  to  press  Ibe  Germans  have  expelled  the  English  missionaries  from  the  German  Kili- 
manjaro district- 


4o6 


SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 


CHAPTER  XX. 

FLEETING     SIGHTS. 

,  ARCHING  over  the  southeastern  foot- 
hill of  Kilimanjaro,  after  leaving 
Moschi,  towards  evening,  there  was 
an  ominous  rustle  of  the  leaves  and 
movement  of  the  branches  in  a  shady 
bosk,  which  seemed  to  indicate  the 
presence  of  a  skulking  animal  or  ser- 
pent. Investigation  revealed  three  albi- 
nos who,  in  terror,  were  striving-  to  gain 
concealment.  Their  hair  was  not  the  yellow-white  discolor- 
ation found  throughout  Africa,  prompted  by  individual  fancy, 
although  not  tribal,  produced  by  bleaching  with  lime,  but  it 
was  pure  dazzling  white,  soft  and  flossy;  and  their  eyes 
were  a  very  pale  pink,  the  iris  dilating  and  contracting 
with  (jLiick,  nervous  snap,  resembling  the  action  of  those 
of  white  rabbits ;  eyelashes  white  and  coarse  like  spun 
silver,  and  in  striking  contrast  to  the  sickly  unprepossessing 
ashy  black  of  their  complexions,  which  has  no  given  place 
in  the  scale  of  colors.  They  looked  dejected  and  debased, 
were   quite    deficient  in  the  allure   and  elasticity  presented  by 


FLEETING     SIGHTS.  407 

most  of  the  East  Africans.  They  were  shy,  and  refused 
to  hold  comnuinication  with  any  of  my  interpreters  or  per- 
sonally with  me.  I  proffered  to  them  tempting  gifts,  which 
they  would  not  accept ;  finally,  as  they  became  over-embar- 
rassed b)-  our  friendl)-  overtures,  they  ran  away  and  again  hid 
in  the  adjacent  bushes.  Their  teeth  were  filed  in  points  and 
stained  brown  with  nut-juice.  Low  of  stature,  and  craniums 
sloping  from  the  forehead  to  the  apex,  thick  protruding  lips 
and  jaws,  they  resembled  Aztecs ;  and  certainly,  from  all 
physical  indices  as  well  as  their  deportment,  seemed  to  rank 
as  the  lowest  intellectually,  if  not  the  most  degraded  Africans 
met.  What  their  tribe  could  not  be  ascertained ;  and  from 
information  subsequently  gleaned,  naturally  leads  to  the  con- 
clusion that  albinos  are  simply  freaks  of  nature  liable  to 
occur  in  any  tribe,  yet  tabooed  by  their  own  families  and 
tribes,  and  by  all  other  tribes.  Per  force  of  circumstances,  based 
upon  the  stigma  of  nature,  they  become  the  denizens  of 
sequestered  places,  pursuing  a  migratory  and  precarious  ex- 
istence. 

Marvels  trooped  on  all  sides  calling  for  attention  and  too 
often  provoking  alarm.  It  had,  up  to  this  period,  been  a 
keen  disappointment  that  we  had  not  seen,  even  at  a  dis- 
tance, elephants.  Struggling  down  the  deep  dip  of  the  hills 
into  a  ravine,  when  the  van  of  my  little  army  was  in  the 
bottom,  which  made  the  crotch  between  the  hills,  and  the 
line  of  men  extended  over  a  mile  behind,  so  that  the  last 
man's    head    had    not  been    seen  over   the   brow    of   the    hill, 


408  SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 

elephants'  fresh  tracks  were  before  me.  My  first  thought 
was  to  get  a  photograph,  if  they  should  put  in  an  appearance; 
then  with  a  sportswoman's  pricle  my  heart  swelled  with  the 
idea  I  could  possibly  get  a  shot  at  them ;  this  was  absurd, 
with  only  rifles  of  small  calibre.  A  crush  and  crash  and 
heavy  thud  of  the  ground  put  my  Zanzibaris'  hearts  and 
mine  too  in  pawn.  The  quadrupedal  earthquakes  were 
emerging  from  the  trees  and  about  to  cross  our  path.  In 
wild  dismay  I  cast  a  hasty  backward  glance  to  see  how  the 
Zanzibaris  were  going  to  behave,  and  there  was  not  one 
single  human  creature  in  sight;  it  seemed  as  though  the 
earth  had  swallowed  the  entire  caravan,  not  even  a  human 
sound.  I  stood  alone  in  my  glory!  My  knees  relaxed,  my 
spine  gave  way,  and  down  I  sank  amid  the  tall  grasses, 
terror-stricken.  Elephant  number  one  came  in  full  view 
and  beat  about  to  the  right  and  left,  with  his  trunk  in  close 
proximity  to  me,  evidently  aware  of  the  presence  of  aliens, 
but  never  paused,  when  snivelling  and  puffing  hot  breaths  of 
inlantile  complaints  came  trotting  after  a  baby  elephant 
reluctantly  following  its  sire,  then  came  the  ungainly  mother, 
lashing  the  youngster  into  a  quicker  trot  by  slapping  it  on 
one  side  of  its  haunches,  then  on  the  other,  with  her  trunk. 
They  all  three  sniffed  about  and  tossed  their  trunks  into  the 
air,  and  the  male  returned  to  round  his  small  family  up, 
but  trotted  off  without  desire  to  molest  us.  After  a  few 
minutes  had  elapsed,  soot-balls  began  to  blossom  amid  the 
foliage,    and    presently  my  loyal,  leal,   brave    fellows    emerged 


2 

> 
< 

OS 
< 
o 


D 


2 

3 


FLEETING     SIGHTS.  409 

smiling,  chattering  at  the  top  of  their  voices  about  the 
tcnibo  (elephants).  A  wandering  band  of  hunters,  evi- 
dently on  the  trail  of  these  elephants,  passed  us  during  the 
day  ;  they  carried  loaded  spears  with  huge  barbed  poisoned 
arrowheads,  which  they  throw  at  the  elephants,  but  always 
strive  to  get  back  the  loaded  shafts  when  the  elephants  are 
brought  low,  as  they  are  difficult  to  make  and  invaluable. 

The  keen  sight  of  the  natives  is  astounding  as  exemplified 
by  native  guides.  A  guide  would  say,  pointing,  "  Bebe 
Bwana,  very  soon  comes  such  or  such  a  mountain,  or  vine, 
or  plain,  or  village."  And  I  would  strain  my  eyes  striving  to 
penetrate  the  limitless  spaces,  unable  to  descry  the  slightest 
indication  of  the  aforesaid,  or  the  slightest  premonition  of  the 
appearance  of  a  caravan  he  might  aver  was  coming ;  neither 
could  I  with  my  field  glasses  espy  a  single  object  to  verify  his 
assertion.  However,  in  due  course  of  a  day  or  two's  march 
we  would  be  in  lull  view  of  the  announced  object,  or  within 
shouting  range  of  the  caravan.  There  is  just  one  cogent 
objection  to  offer  on  this  point:  may  the  natives  not  be  so 
well  posted  as  to  the  physical  aspect  of  the  country,  and 
familiarized  with  such  by  constantly  traversing  it;  and  may 
they  possibly  not  have  learned  from  experience  that  the 
mzimgus  caravans  march  at  a  certain  rate  of  speed  and  are 
most  likely  in  a  given  time  to  reach  a  point  they  know  as  a 
fixed  fact,  or  that  a  caravan,  rumor  has  bruited  is  en  route, 
will  be  met  ?  or  can  it  be  that  these  naturals  actually  have 
that  same  keenness  of  vision  peculiar  to  birds  and  some  wild 


4IO  SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 

animals,  and  in  some  marked  individual  cases  extremely 
acute?  Another  remarkable  trait,  or  gift,  which  it  would 
seem  is  an  attribute  possessed  by  all  native  peoples,  is 
their  acute  faculty  of  hearing.  The  native  guides,  like  the 
North  American  Indians,  would  sprawl  flat  on  the  ground  and 
press  their  ears  close  upon  it,  then  announce  with  a  degree 
of  accuracy  certain  discoveries:  "a  herd  of  buffalo,"  "simba," 
"zebra."  "elephants,"  "a  saftiri"  "natives,"  "water." 

At  Lake  Jipo,  and,  in  fact,  on  the  banks  of  various 
streams,  personally  I  distinctly  heard  men  talking  in  a  low 
voice  over  the  water  from  the  opposite  bank,  by  sending  the 
voice  close  to  the  water's  surface,  and  even  heard  them  speak 
across  ravines  from  the  edge  of  one  precipice  to  the  other. 
The  latter  denotes  some  peculiar  vibrant  qualities  of  the  at- 
mosphere, whatever  may  be  the  secret  of  the  former.  On  all 
sides  could  be  heard  th(;  laughter  of  merry  girls  and  Icon 
(lads),  and  the  voices  of  men  and  women  from  distances 
which  would  prove  a  rarity  or  peculiarity  in  the  carrying 
properties  of  the  atmosphere. 

Water  seemed  to  be  my  African  ordeal.  Shouts  and  yells 
are  always  in  order  with  Zanzibaris  on  safari,  and  only  when 
particularly  vociferous  does  a  leader  heed  them,  although 
there  is  usually  an  intonation  that  is  significant  when 
prompted  through  peril. 

A  great  shout  of  warning  from  my  followers  rang  up  from 
the  valley  to  me,  as  I  was  cautiously  picking  my  steps  along 
a  customary  goat-path  on   the    mountain-side.      Although    not 


FLEETING     SIGHTS.  4I  I 

easily  flustered,  their  repeated  yells  and  wild,  significant  ges- 
tures, I  must  confess,  slightly  alarmed  me.  The  thought  flashed 
through  my  brain  that  possibly  I  might  be  on  the  eve  of 
stepping  into  some  gorge  or  trap  unseen  by  me  but  discern- 
ible to  my  followers  from  below.  As  their  yells  continued,  I 
deemed  it  wise  to  pause  and  ascertain  the  cause  of  the 
augmenting  commotion,  so  I  wheeled  around,  and  planted  my 
back  against  the  craggy  mountain-side.  At  this  act  their 
yells  redoubled.  I  demanded  an  explanation.  No  answer 
came,  none  was  needed.  The  rains  of  the  nieht  before  had 
gorged  the  usual  water  courses  and,  as  an  overflow,  rushed 
in  a  perfect  deluge  down  upon  me  where  unwittingly  I  stood. 
It  was  only  by  crouching  upon  the  ground  and  clutching  the 
scant  shrubbery  that  I  kept  from  being  swept  over  the  steep 
side  to  the  bottom  of  the  ravine  in  the  belching  waters.  It 
was  over  in  a  momeni.  My  sense  of  the  ridiculous,  together 
with  thankfulness  for  my  escape,  put  me  in  such  good  humor 
that  even  the  terrified  porters  seemed  to  catch  the  contagion 
of  my  merry  mood,  and  were  never  so  light-hearted  as  during 
the  remainder  of  the  day  after  this  incident  which  threatened 
danger  to  their  leader.  Although  drenched  to  the  skin,  an 
hour's  march  in  the  sun  made  my  clothing  as  dry  as  usual. 
Each  da)'  every  garment  became  saturated  with  perspiration, 
the  heat  was  so  intense,  and  great  caution  was  required  to 
avoid  sudden  chill.  When  we  halted  I  always  put  on  an 
additional  garment,  a  long  silk  gown  which  was  carried  by 
Baraka   or  Ramezan.     Another   thing    I    must    confess,    that    I 


412  SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 

was  just  feminine  enough  to  feel  more  comfortable  to  have 
my  short  travel-stained  frock  well  covered  down  to  my  feet 
when  standing  about  among  my  porters.  My  woman's  cos- 
tume was  never  a  hindrance  to  my  progress,  and  I  cannot 
conceive  how  masculine  attire  would  have  in  an)'  wa)'  been 
an  advantage  to  me. 

This  brings  me  to  state  that  there  is  a  certain  recognized 
distinction  in  the  native  women's  costumes,  which  has  as  subtle 
and  significant  an  import  as  the  sleeves  of  the  Japanese 
women's  kiinonas.  A  Taveta  or  Chaga  woman  who  is  dissolute 
with  Swahali  caravans  usually  wears  the  cloths  of  the  coast 
tribes,  and  is  more  or  less  stigmatized  by  the  more  conventional 
of  her  own  tribe.  This,  too,  from  no  high  sense  of  virtue, 
but  from  tribal  prejudice,  based  on  the  fact  that  the  woman 
has  bartered  her  favors  to  porters  or  to  aliens  ;  hence  therein 
resides  the  secret  of  her  diserace. 

Ideas  of  hospitality  among  natives  are  of  a  very  singular 
strain.  If  one  sultan  visits  another  sultan,  or  a  man  of 
importance  another,  or  even  friend  visits  friend,  the  host  puts 
at  his  guest's  disposal  one  or  more  of  his  own  wives,  and  allows 
him  general  freedom  throughout  his  home.  These  civilities 
are  commonly  interchanged  throughout  Chaga  land  as  well 
as  at    Faveta. 

A  quaint  sight  presented  itself  during  a  little  call  upon 
a  chief's  family.  A  she-goat  with  her  kids  bleating  about  her 
as  she  stood  over  a  native  baby  who  was  laid  comfortably 
upon  a  sheaf  of  grass  suckling   it,  letting-  her  own  )oung  await 


FLEETING     SIGHTS.  4I3 

their  turn,  when  the  adopted  baby  should  be  satisfied ; 
presently  the  child  slept,  and  the  goat  cautiously  picked  up 
her  feet  and  backed  away  without  disturbing  its  slumbers. 
This  goat  returned  at  regular  intervals  to  see  if  all  was  well 
with  her  charge,  and  was  ready  to  answer  its  demands  when 
hunger's  cry  called  to  her. 

A  native  promenaded  before  me,  shaking  his  head  in  order 
to  display  his  elaborately  dressed  hair,  plastered  with  grease 
and  red  clay.  He  expressed  entire  willingness  to  dispose  of 
it  for  a  stipulated  amount  of  beads,  wire,  and  cloth.  Whilst 
awaiting  the  tonsorial  preparations,  it  occurred  to  me  to  in- 
spect the  man's  head ;  the  revelation  of  its  animated  con- 
dition compelled  me  with  regret  to  refuse  to  carry  out  the 
bargain. 

o 

The  difficulties  of  photography  in  a  tropical  country  like 
Atrica,  during  the  rainy  season,  when  1  visited  it,  are  obviously 
great.  Negatives  become  affected  by  the  heat  and  the  moisture, 
and  a  fungus  growth  will  develop  upon  them  which,  it  not 
entirely  effacing  the  picture,  certainly  produces  regretable 
blemishes.  However,  there  is  nothing  which  puts  a  traveller's 
narration  so  much  in  evidence,  or  constitutes  so  admirable  a 
syllabus  to  refresh  the  memory  of  passing  events,  as  photog- 
raphy, good  or  bad.  The  place  one  visits  for  the  first  time, 
for  example,  my  circumnavigation  of  Lake  Chala,  and  the  pho- 
tographs taken,  cannot  be  discounted  by  any  contradictory 
statement  prompted  by  jealousy  or  incredulity.  It  is  to  be 
regretted  that  the   glowing  colors  of  the  foliage,  which   is   so 


414  SULTAN    TO     SULTAN. 

multifold,  and  the  gorgeous  floral  effects,  as  well  as  atmospheric 
effects,  cannot  be  reproduced  ;  and  then,  too,  the  lack  of  artistic 
focus,  unavoidable  in  instantaneous  pictures,  deprives  the  view 
of  perspective,  and  when  a  representation  of  grass  over  ten  feet 
high  is  in  the  foreground,  looking  across  a  plain  fifty  to  one 
hundred  miles  wide,  with  a  mountain  several  thousand  feet  high 
as  a  far-away  background,  or  rather  the  central  point,  the  effect 
is  somewhat  distorted  and  disappointing.  Nevertheless,  it 
serves  a  purpose  far  transcending  the  force  of  mere  description. 

The  natives'  horror  of  being  photographed  makes  it  most 
difficult  to  obtain  satisfactory  portraits  of  them.  Once,  and 
only  once,  with  their  knowledge  I  held  up  my  camera  before 
a  group  of  natives,  employing  the  photographer's  fiction  to 
attract  their  attention,  "  Look  here  and  you  will  see  a  bird 
fly  out."  The  result  justified  the  deception.  Their  good- 
natured,  laughing  phsiognomies  depict  anything  but  brutality 
or  sa\agery. 

Glass  negatives  are  constantly  in  peril  of  damage,  gelatine 
is  liable  to  melt  or  mildew,  and  the  necessary  chemicals  to 
develop  at  once  the  negatives  are  too  frequently  utterly  spoiled 
by  the  atmospheric  conditions.  There  is  much  to  be  accom- 
plished in  perfecting  photographic  paraphernalia  ibr  tropical 
use. 

It  had  fully  been  my  intention  to  take  a  phonograph, 
despite  its  unwieldiness,  but  at  that  time  there  was  no 
guaranteed  surety  that  the  wax  cylinders  would  withstand 
the  climate,    and    the    project    was    wisely  abandoned    on    the 


o 
p 


X 

< 

Di 

o 
o 

H 

o 

X 


FLEETING     SIGHTS. 


415 


advice  of  skilled  electricians.  The  Sultan  of  Zanzibar  was  the 
possessor  of  a  phonograph  which  he  kindly  proffered  for 
my  use,  but  this  instrument  was  not  in  working  order  ;  more- 
over, I  naturally  declined  the  responsibility  entailed,  fearful  it 
should  be  damaged.  Now  I  am  quite  convinced  it  would 
have  been  worse  than  useless,  terrifying  the  natives  to  such 
an  e.xtent  they  would  have  stigmatized  me  as  a  mistress  of 
black  art. 


4i6 


SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 


CHAPTER  XXI. 

HOMEWARD    BOUND. 

UT  of  the  German  fort  at  Panoani, 
the  moment  the  first  sun  was  fired 
and    the    reveille    beat,    I    ordered 
my  porters    to    carry  me,  only  too 
;lad  that   the    night    of   dread  and 
suffering    had    at    last    ended,    and 
eager     to     outdistance     the     com- 
-mander's  limit  of  power  before  he 
could  prohibit  my  egress. 
\v^     ^  The    mosquitoes  had    mart\Ted 

me;  my  entire  body  was  mottled  and  burning  from  their 
merciless  stings.  In  my  utter  helplessness,  for  the  first  time 
I  relinquished  a  thought  or  a  care  as  to  my  personal  effects; 
in  consequence,   for  the   first  time,   articles  disappeared. 

Alack !  when  within  a  few  daj's'  march  of  Pangani,  I  met 
with  the  unfortunate  accident  which  so  nearly  cost  me  my 
life.  At  the  time  there  were  nothing  but  German  swamps 
and  unplcturesque  stretches  of  valley  country  elongated  be- 
tween distant  mountains,  and,  as  I  experienced  a  slight  degree 
of   fatigue   and    natural    reaction,   deemed   it    a    sensible    thing 


HOMEWARD     BOUND. 


41 


to  husband  my  strength,  betook  myself  to  my  Palanquin,  and 
allowed  myself  to  be  carried. 

Bent  upon  accomplishing  some  detailed  work  and  arran- 
ging botanical  specimens,  I  paid  too  little  heed  to  the  con- 
struction of  an  extemporized  tree  bridge.  As  it  was  the 
rainy    season,     the     sap    was    well    up     in     the    trees  ;    those 


PORTERS     TESTING     THE     BRIDGE. 


selected  on  both  brinks,  and  felled  ior  our  purpose,  looked 
fair  and  sturdy ;  and  when  duly  strapped  together  in  the 
middle,  and  all  was  ready,  a  number  of  porters  were  sent 
ahead  to  test  the  structure ;  they  crossed  safely.  I  should 
have  walked  across,  however,  without  a  thought  of  danger.  I 
allowed  myself  to  be  carried  in  ni)-  Palanquin  ;  the  bark 
proved  to  be  unsound  and  slippery ;  my  bearers  maintained 
their    footing    with    difficulty ;     when     in     the    middle    of    the 


41 8  SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 

bridge,  over  the  swollen  torrent  which  noisily  tumbled  in  its 
stony  bed  twenty  or  more  feet  below  us,  the  bark  peeled 
off  from  the  logs,  and  the  usually  sure-footed  porters  were 
hurled  with  me  down  into  the  rushing  waters,  whereas 
they  at  their  peril  were  dashed  headlong  into  the  dubious 
channel,  and  compelled  to  struggle  for  their  lives.  For  a 
■hazardous  moment,  only  a  moment,  although  time  and  space 
are  so  immeasurably  elongated  into  eternities  during  like 
terrors,  I  was  whirled  about,  protected  from  injury  by  my 
Palanquin,  but  with  mj'  head  down  and  completely  submerged 
in  thick  yellow  water,  in  jeopardy  of  drowning.  Several  addi- 
tional porters — for  my  bearers,  poor  fellows,  had  all  they  could 
do  to  save  themselves  —  precipitously  descended  the  bank  and 
plunged  into  the  seething  waters  and  extricated  me  with  great 
difficulty  from  the  Palanquin  in  which  I  was  helplessly  buried 
beneath  a  confused  mass  of  cushions,  besides  being   under  water. 

Poor,  affrighted  fellows,  in  their  wild  efforts  to  carry  me 
out  of  the  water,  up  the  steep  rugged  bank,  hopelessly 
slipped  and  dropped  me  a  second  time,  with  serious  injury 
to  my  spine,  where  I  had  struck  the  rocks.  A  second  rescue, 
and  I  was  carried,  limp  and  helpless,  as  I  thought  per- 
manently disabled,  up  the  bank.  When  1  had  somewhat 
recovered  from  the  shock,  I  realized  that  ni)'  life  depended 
upon   reaching  the  coast  at  the  earliest  possible  moment. 

Meeting  the  German  officer  at  Masslndi,  where  he  had 
preceded  me,  I  did  not  mention  the  fact  of  the  disaster  to 
him,  although    my  helplessness  was    not    possible   to    conceal. 


^'V 


%// 


# 


THE    COURT    DRESS. 


HOMEWARD     BOUND.  4I9 

He  took  it  for  granted  I  had  the  fever,  a  very  natural  conclu- 
sion, as  he  was  then  stricken  with  the  malady,  yet  proposed 
to  extend  his  official  journey  back  to  a  mountain  village 
where  the  natives  were  rebellious  ;  hence  it  did  not  excite  his 
suspicion  to  know,  notwithstanding  illness,  that  I  would,  that 
I  must,  proceed  on  my  journey. 

To  this  point  coin  had  been  useless  to  me,  and  the  re- 
mainder of  my  rupees  seemed  too  small  to  meet  the  demands  for 
the  balance  of  the  journey.  I  was  given  an  order  on  the  officer- 
in-chief  at  Pangani  to  refund  me  for  the  surplus  loads  I  had 
gladly  transferred  to  the  officer  then  at  INIoschi,  at  coast  rates, 
deducting  the  fifteen  rupees  a  load  for  transportation,  when  I 
found  coin  would  be  required  at  the  fag  end  of  the  journey. 
That  claim  has  never  been  settled.  However,  another  officer 
at  a  station  later  on  answered  my  request  sent  by  a  messenger 
at  night  for  one  hundred  rupees,   which   have  been  refunded. 

By  instituting  frequent  relays  of  sturdy  carriers,  —  for 
many  of  my  porters  were  without  loads,  who  were  induced 
by  promises  of  extra  reward  to  carry  me  in  a  light  hammock, 
marching  day  and  night,  —  one  clay  they  made  the  extraor- 
dinary distance  of  forty  miles  through  the  swampy  country  of 
Rufa.  The  German  surgeons  at  the  various  stations  were 
horrified  that  I  should  proceed  in  the  dying  condition  they 
deemed  me  to  be  in.  However,  after  using  every  effort  short 
of  force,  and  having-  exhausted  all  arguments  to  induce  me  to 
tarry  and  recuperate  at  Bomo  and  Lewa,  the  gentlemen  were 
more  than  hospitable,  and  went  so  far  as  to    compassionately 


420  SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 

tender  to  me  personal  care,  cooking  with  their  own  hands  delica- 
cies, proffering  and  even  loading  me  down  with  the  choicest  arti- 
cles they  had  in  store  when  I  would  depart.  Some  few  of  these 
German  stations  were  comfortable  habitations,  though  not 
quite  finished,  and  the  saw  and  hammer  of  the  carpenters  could 
be  heard.  It  must  be  remembered  that  I  was  utterly  power- 
less, and  had  to  lie  just  where  placed,  dying,  it  seemed,  by 
degrees,  my  poor  brain  half  delirious ;  but  the  rule  of  my 
camp  life  had  become  so  indelibly  stamped  that  I  knew 
enough  to  be  silent  unless  sure  of  the  words  I  was  to  utter. 
Nervous  dysentery  had  several  times  assailed  me  after 
leaving  Chaga  land,  and  now  it  caused  serious  havoc,  and  it 
was  impossible  to  eat  a  bit  of  solid  lood,  or  taste  beef  tea  or 
beef  extract.  Every  day  my  distress  and  emaciation  grew  more 
apparent,  and  Hamidi  and  Josefe  were  constantly  by  my  side, 
if,  indeed,  not  assisting  my  carriers.  They  would  lift  me  ten- 
derly in  and  out  of  the  hammock,  fan  me,  carry  an  umbrella 
over  me,  try  in  every  possible  way  to  tempt  me  to  eat,  and 
encourage  me  when  my  vitality  was  about  to  ebb  out.  The 
tenderness  and  delicacy  of  these  two  men,  as  well  as  that 
of  Ramezan  and  Baraka,  I  can  never  praise  too  highly. 
In  fact,  every  man  in  the  caravan  developed  unexpected 
traits  of  devotion  and  gentleness.  My  big  man  Kara  was 
ever  eager  to  serve,  when  a  single-handed  aid  was  required 
in  carrying  me  through  the  swamps;  and  others,  too  numerous 
to  mention,  expressed  in  deeds  their  solicitude,  and  were 
fired  with  the  desire    to    bring    me    alive    back    to    the    coast. 


HOMEWARD     HOUND. 


421 


The  vague  remembrance  of  the  salutes  fired  in  my  honor 
by  the  Germans  still  affects  me  in  a  strange  manner  —  the 
country,  the  natives,  the  intermingling  of  so  much  military 
displa}',  primitives  and 
rattle  ot  guns,  my  des- 
perate condition,  the  deed 
accomplished,  the  narrow- 
ing down  of  my  soul's 
desire  only  to  return  alive 
and  receive  the  adulation 
of  the  one  whose  mortal  liiiS 
lips  are  now  silenced  by 
a  journey  to  that  bourne 
where  one  goes,  but 
nevermore  returns  to  ter- 
restrial haunts. 

To    the     officers     and 
even   to  the  good    doctor  ^  clandestine  meeting. 

I  was  so  very  uncivil.  When  proffered  courtesies  and  medical 
attention,  I  was  at  once  apprehensive  that  if  I  became  either 
their  guest  or  patient  they  could  e.xercise  in  the  name  of  human- 
ity a  warrantable  edict  based  upon  the  fact  that  my  condition 
was  altogether  too  precarious  to  admit  of  my  being  removed 
from  their  hospital  or  fort.  One  thought  possessed  me, 
namely,  to  catch  the  steamer  at  Zanzibar  and  start  home  ; 
the  one  boon  I  yearned  for  was  to  live  at  least  until  I 
should    once    more    see    my   husband    and    reach    my   home. 


42  2  SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 

All  the  chances  seemed  against  me ;  the  doom  of  death 
seemed  upon  me.  Having  hired  Moias  to  transport  us  to 
the  anchored  ship  off  Zanzibar,  although  there  was  little 
wind,  by  employing  sixty  oarsmen  the  Mo7u  I  had  embarked 
upon  with  about  fifty  selected  porters,  headmen,  interpreters, 
arrived  at  the  steamer  in  the  unusual  time  durino;  monsoons 
of  twenty-eight  hours ;  the  rest  of  my  caravan  and  imple- 
ments followed  a  day  later.  With  difficulty  I  was  carried  on 
board  of  the  "  Madura."  Capt.  Avern  and  all  on  board  were 
shocked  at  my  ghastly  apparition.  I  was  laid  upon  the  sky- 
light ;  all  .sorts  ot  arrangements  had  been  made  to  secure  for 
me  every  comfort,  and  contribute  to  my  well-being.  Friends 
came  to  see  me;  doctors  were  consulted;  and  the  late  Capt. 
W.  E.  Stairs,  who  was  just  forming  his  caravan,  full  of 
compassion  for  his  own  expedition,  which  proved  fatal  to 
him,  implored  me  to  execute  certain  documents  as  he  ven- 
tured to  whisper  to  me  his  solemn  conviction,  shared  by  all, 
that  I  would  die  on  the  voyage.  Upon  my  emaciated 
upper  arms  he  slipped  a  pair  of  silver  bracelets  which  only 
measured  six  inches  in  circumference.  He  exclaimed,  "I 
never  beheld  such  an  object  of  physical  ravages  at  Nelson's 
starvation  camp!"  In  truth,  I  seemed  to  be  surely  dying 
Irom  the  sequences  of  the  injury  to  my  spine,  starvation,  and 
dysentery.  After  having  escaped  African  fever — no,  not 
actually  escapctl,  for  I  find  that  I  too  have  become  a  victim 
to  that  insidious  African  complaint  —  fever,  what  you  will  — 
from  which  seldom,   if  ever,  any  traveller  in  Africa  escapes  — 


HOMEWARD     BOUND. 


423 


the  craving  to  return.  Africa  is  a  hard  but  irresistibly 
fascinating  mistress,  holcling  fast  with  magnetic  swa}'  lier 
votaries. 

After  a  safe,  altliough  thrilHng,  venture  among  hostile  and 
peaceful  tribes,  and  a  safe  march  through  a  difficult  country, 
with  only  one    dead  and  one  thief  left   behind    me,  my  heart 


REPAST    OF    ARAI!    FAMILY. 

bounding   with    delight    born    of    success,   it    seemed     a     cruel 
fate  to  be  thus  disabled. 

Despite  my  serious  illness,  so  exhausted  I  could  not 
articulate  an  audible  sound,  sufferingr  excruciatine  aeony,  I 
feel  a  glow  of  pardonable  pride,  in  which  my  friends  and  my 
sex  must  join  me,  in  the  fact  that  I  personally  discharged 
all  of   my  men,  and  saw  them  disband,  and  that  I   made  full 


424  SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 

settlement  of  every  payable  obligation  connected  with  my 
caravan,  as  completely  as  though  in  the  possession  of  my 
normal  health.  My  misfortunes  were  not  to  end  when 
embarked  on  the  dear  old  "  Madura,"  although  every  profes- 
sional care  and  personal  consideration  were  extended  to  me, 
and  the  after  deck  of  the  ship  fitted  up  for  my  occupancy 
like  a  private  yacht;  reposing.  In  order  to  breathe,  on  the  sky- 
light day  after  day,  semidelirious,  one  day  a  sudden  gust  of 
the  monsoon  lifted  ni)-  mattresses  with  me  upon  them  and 
hurled  me  against  the  iron  stanchions  of  the  ship's  railings, 
and,  but  for  the  canvas  sides,  would  have  carried  me  into  the 
ocean.  My  skull  was  fractured.  The  captain,  surgeon,  and 
officers  at  first  thought  it  must  result  seriously,  but  the  cap- 
tain had  personally  provided  for  my  use  a  couple  of  tons  of 
ice,  and  its  constant  applications  to  my  head  kept  down  in- 
flammation. Strange  fact,  I  shall  always  regard  this  calamity  in 
the  light  of  a  benefit,  for  it  aroused  me  from  a  subtle  coma- 
tose condition,  which  was  gradually  enshrouding  my  sentient 
being  and  chaining  my  will.  Day  and  night  through  my 
distracted  brain  passed  in  review  all  of  the  incidents  and  the 
solicitudes  of  camj)  life.  A  little  concert-hall  song  one  of 
the  porters  used  to  drone  out  in  broken  English,  in  wliich 
the  refrain  was  "  Lady  Locket  lost  her  pocket,"  would  come 
mumbling  from  ni)-  lips;  anon  some  order  would  be  cried 
out,  and  the  personages  haunting  m\-  delirium  were  the 
phantoms  of  those  who  had  served  me  with  such  marked 
patience   and    loyalty    during    my  safari  of   over    a    thousand 


HOMF.WAKD      HOUND. 


425 


oeling    of   lile's    course,  occurred:   awaiting 


miles.  Various  gifts  ami  jirayer  symbols  were  brought  to  mc 
by  the  headmen  and  principals  of  m\-  caravan  from  their 
wives  or  from  themselves.  A  curious  incident,  revealing  the 
chance  and  odd  ju^^, 
my  arrival  was  a 
Zanzibaris  servant, 
known  to  many  as 
Saala  bin  Osman, 
who  desired  to  ac- 
compan)'  me  back 
to  England,  al- 
though he  had  but 
just  returned  to 
Zanzibar.  He  nar- 
rated with  consid- 
erable pathos  that 
he  had  become  a 
Christian  bo\-,  and 
that   his  father  and  \f\r.  ml-siciaxs. 

brother  were  dead,  and  that  his  iMohammcdan  friends  would 
no  lono-er  tolerate  him ;  in  tact,  that  his  lile  was  in  dano^er. 
Whilst  his  story  was  in  progress,  Hamidi,  m\'  headman, 
dressed  like  a  satrap,  in  spotless  white  and  crimson  velvet 
and  gold-lace,  came  with  a  troup  of  magnificent  personages, 
who  proved  to  be  my  working  porters,  transformed  into 
Zanzibaris  gentlemen  of  color.  .Saala  and  Hamidi  exchanged 
glances,    surprise    broke    over    both  faces,  and  they  e.xclaimed 


426 


SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 


in  concert,  "This  is  my  brother!"  And  so  it  proved  Saala's 
supposed  dead  brother  was  my  trusted  Hamidi.  Had  I  ever 
dreamed  I  should  have  lived  to  reach  Engrland,   I  should  cer- 


WOMAX     WATER-CARRIER. 


tainly  have  brought  Hamidi  with  me.  Suffice  it  my  voyage 
of  horrors  progressed ;  once  more  we  were  at  Aden,  then 
Port     Said,     and    the    local    color    changed ;     the    sights    and 


HOMEWARD     BOUND. 


427 


.-v^"-vi^^?:?^-^'^\H;,.    ^*^-f.^ 


scenes    assumed    the    guise    of   familiarity,    and    my    condition 
was  even   more  deplorable,   and  we  sighted  Naples. 

With  all  the  reserve  force  I  could  command  I  eathcred 
myself  together  for  the  shocking  ordeal  of  meeting  my 
husband.  A  voice,  that  set  my  heart  thumping,  tremulously 
asked,  "Does  she  live?"  Ah,  yes,  she  did  live,  and  felt 
that  from  henceforth  protectetl  and  safe,  she  would  surely 
recover,  proud  and  happy  in  the 
thought  to  be  at  last  in  shelter- 
ing, loving  arms;  and,  more 
than  all,  success  was  im- 
bued with  a  new  glamour, 
for  he  smiled  and  in 
well-measured  adulation 
approved. 

Friends     and     the    dear 
faithful    Jacques    overwhelmed 
me    with    such    a   welcome.      The 

y..-\  .  il  1  J     1  "DOES   SHE   LIVE?" 

little    town,  the    loved   home,   was 

redolent  with  a  greeting,  and  brilliant  with  llags,  among 
which  conspicuously  floated  my  own  American  flag,  which 
had  acted  as  a  talisman  throughout  my  safari.  Weeks  of 
suspense  and  agony,  then  my  constitutional  vitality  asserted 
itself  under  the  auspices  of  skilled  medical  care  and  un- 
abated nursing  of  devoted  friends  and  faithful  servants,  and 
once  more  I  was  well  and  strong.  The  rest  has  no  place 
here  in  this  volume,  save  in  the  few  words  in  the  dedication. 


428 


SULTAN     '1"0     SULTAN. 


CHAPTER   XXII. 

AFTERMATH. 

»UERYING  was  it  worth  while? 
After  serious  retrospection  over  the 
pros  and  cons,  tlie  expenditure  of 
time,  money,  personal  force,  hazards, 
loss  and  gain,  and  finally  facing  as 
best  I  may  the  irrefutable  sorrow 
which  is  upon  me,  requiring  more 
courage  to  bear  up  under  than  all 
else  which  has  befallen  me,  or  can  befall  me,  I 
am  prepared  to  answer  the  quer)-  provisionally,  without  a 
tinge  of  cant. 

Yes,  it  was  worth  while,  if  it  lies  in  my  feeble  power 
after  the  quest  I  ventured  to  make  to  contribute  something 
substantial  towards  the  betterment  and  enlightenment  of  the 
natives,  as  well  as  to  be  instrumental  in  convincing  their 
future  rulers  and  teachers  that  more  humanity  and  practical 
common-sense  will  be  more  fruitful.  If  the  time,  money, 
personal  force,  hardships,  and  ethnological  researches  result 
in  putting  into  my  hands  useful  productive  work  to  do  in 
behall   of  the  primitives,   if  in  ni)*  future  work   I    may  dexx'lop 


AFFERMATH. 


429 


those  rare  attributes  of  nobility  and  meritorious  character 
which  shall  make  me  a  worthy  exponent  of  the  philosophy  and 
example  oi  him  whose  name  I  proudl)-  bear,  then,  I  reiterate, 
it  was  worth  while. 


Jaui(^yPLtS      ^/zl£^9C(rt^ 


MEDICAL    AND    SITRGICAL    APPLIANCES. 


Two  large-sized  pigskin  cases,  filled. 

Two  small  leather  emergency  cases,  surgical  fittings. 

One  French-Sheldon  medicine  belt,  filled. 

Fever  thermometers,  hypodermic  cases. 

Lymph  and  lancets  for  vaccination. 

\'ariou5  splints,  carbolized  gau/e,  bandages. 

Hazehne,  ether,  chloroform,  soda,  liorax. 

Eno  fruit  salts,  violet  water,  toilet  soap. 

Traveller's  Surgical  and  Medical  C.uide. 

GENER.\L  MEDICAL  AND  SURGICAL  DIRECTIONS  AND  HINTS. 
FROM    SURGEON   T.    II.    PARKE. 

SAI.OL    •]  AHI.oIIiS. 

One  or  two  for  dose,  three  times  ilaily  in  cholera,  dysentery,  or  diseases  of  the  bladder 
attended  with  discharge  of  pus. 

PEPTONIC    TABLOIDS. 

One  or  two  taken  immediately  after  eating  to  relieve  indigestion,  and  to  assist  the  diges- 
tion.    One  or  two  taken  with  meals,  during  convalescence  from  malarial  fevers,  beneficial. 

SILPHONAI,   TABLOIDS. 

Taken  according  to  direction  on  labels  to  induce  sleep,  during  period  of  insomnia. 

(.IITN'INE   TABLOIDS    (plX'Ii   GRAINS). 

One  or  two  taken  immediately  after  the  first  symptoms  of  malarial   fe\er  are  experienced, 
to  aliort  an  attack  of  ague. 

c.ilININE   TABLOIDS    (TWO    OKAINs). 

.Small  doses  of  quinine  beneficial  as  a  tonic  and  antimalarial.       ( >ne  or  t\\<i  tabluiils  would 
be  an  appropriate  dose. 

LEAD    AND    OPIUM     lABLOIDS. 

Anodyne  and  astringent.     One  tabloid,  taken  every  three  hours,  to  stop  the  discharge  in 
dysentery  and  in  persistent  diarrhrea,  attended  with  hemorrhage. 

OITUM    TABLOIDS. 

Dose,  one  tabloid  to  relieve  pain,  or  to  iniluce  sleep. 

SULPHATE  OF  ZINC  TABLOIDS. 

One  tabloid  dissolved  in  an  ounce  of  water  may  be  used  as  an  eye  lotion  in  inllamed  con- 
ditions of  the  eyes;    also,  as  an  injection  for  gonorrhoea,  gleet,  etc. 


432  SULTAN     TO     SULTAN. 

PHOS.    NUX   VOMICA   AND    IKON    PILLS. 

One  or  two  pills  as  a  dose,  two  or  three  times  daily,  as  a  stimulating  tonic  in  nervous 
debility  and  loss  of  tone  in  the  system. 

roTASH    BROMIDE  TABLOIDS    (FIVE  GRAINS). 

Two  tabloids  dissolved  in  a  wineglass  of  water,  taken  to  relieve  headache,  or  four  t.-ibloids 
taken  in  same  quantity  of  water,  taken  as  a  night  draught  in  sleeplessness. 

ARSENICUS  ACID  TABLOIDS. 

One  tabloid  taken  in  a  little  water,  three  times  daily,  as  an  antimalarial  and  as  a  tonic  in 
malarial  fever,  and  as  an  alterative  in  skin  disease. 

CITRIC    ACID    TABLOIDS. 

Found  useful  and  recommended  highly  by  Dr.  Hans  Meyers,  to  allay  thirst  when  march- 
ing long  distances.  Either  dissolved  in  water  and  taken  as  a  draught,  or  by  placing  a  tabloid 
in  the  mouth  and  allowing  it  to  dissolve  slowly. 

KORCED-MARCH    TABLOIDS. 

One  tabloid  taken  every  two  hours  to  act  as  a  stimulant  when  taking  a  long  journey,  and 
to  ward  off  the  craving  for  food.     [V'ery  effectual.  —  .\i  riiuK.j 

SULl'HIDE    OF    CALCIUM     TABLOIDS. 

One  tabloid  every  two  h<iurs  as  an  alterative  for  boils,  carbuncles,  eruptions,  and  suppurat- 
ing wounds. 

II'LCAC    POWDER   TABLOIDS. 

Four  tabloids  crushed  in  a  little  water  to  be  taken  during  the  acute  stage  of  dysentery. 

LIVINGSTON'S    ROUSERS. 

Tonic,  aperient,  antimalarial.  One  or  two  tabloids  when  the  first  symptoms  of  malarial 
fever  are  felt. 

WARBURG'S   TINCTURE   TABLOIDS. 

Four  to  eight  tabloids  during  the  cold  stage  of  intermittent  fever,  in  brandy  and  \\ater. 
Patient  should  go  to  bed  if  the  sweating  induced  is  not  profuse,  and  o  repeated  dose  of  four 
to  eight  tabloids  should  be  taken  two  hours  from  the  time  the  first  dose  was  taken. 

PERMANGANATE   OF    POTASH    TABLOIDS. 

One  tabloid  added  to  a  quart  of  water  when  its  purity  is  doubted.  This  will  destroy  the 
to.xicity  of  organic  matter  in  the  water  and  render  it  drinkable. 

CARBOLIC  ACID. 
A  solution  made  according  to  the  directions  on  label  may  be  used  for  irrigating  foul  ulcers, 
wounds,  etc.,  or    ten    minims   may    be   injected    into   the  puncture  caused  by  the  fangs   of  a 
venomous  reptile  or  rabid  animal.      In  case  carbolic  aciJis  not  handy,  two  grains  oi  pcrtnan- 
ganate  of poiash  dissolved  in  ten  minims  of  water  may  be  substituted. 

SACCHARIN    TABLOIDS. 

A  suljstitute  for  sugar,  f  hie  tabloid  may  be  used  in  lieu  of  a  lump  of  sugar  for  sweeten- 
ing ctjffee,  cocoa,  etc.,  as  well  as  in  articles  of  food. 


MEDICAL     AND     SURf.ICAL     AI'l'I.IANXES.  433 

RHUBARB   TABLOIDS. 
Dose,  one  or  two  taliloids  as  a  stomachic  in  dyspepsia,  diarrhrea,  etc. 

CASCARA     lAlil.OlDS. 

One  or  two  tabloids  in  a  little  water  as  a  mild  aperient. 

SODA   MINT. 
Dissolve   one   taliloid  slowly   in    the  mouth  or  take  as  a  draught,  dissolved  in  water,  to 
relieve  dyspepsia,  flatulency,  and  cramps. 

iJUININE    POWDERS. 

Used  same  \vay  as  tabloids.  Five  grains  will  be  the  .piantity  that  will  lay  comfortable 
upon  a  shilling. 

ORANGE    AND    QUININE    WINE. 

The  properties  of  this  wine  the  same  as  the  quinine  tabloids. 

lODUI'ORM. 

Used  as  a  dusting  powder  upon  indolent  and  purulent  ulcers,  wounds,  etc.      (Invaluable.) 

NITRATE   OF    SILVER. 

For  cauterizing  wounds  and  bites  of  venomous  animals,  t-arried  in  a  glass-lined  metal 
caustic  holder, 

CHKVSOrHAMC    ACID. 

To  mix  into  a  salve  or  ointment  with  lanolin  or  fat.     Applied  for  ringworms,  ulcers,  etc. 

HAZELINE. 

An  anodyne  and  astringent.  May  be  applied  on  lint  locally  to  stop  hemorrhages  from 
wounds;  or  taken  in  water  internally  as  a  styptic  in  hemorrhages  from  the  stomach  or  lungs. 
Invaluable  for  hemorrhoids;    also,  for  inflammatory  condition  of  the  eyes. 

GRANULAR    EFFERVESCENT    SULITIATE    OF    SODA. 

( )ne  to  three  teaspoonfuls  dissolved  in  a  tumbler  of  water  and  drunk  while  effervescing  as 
a  mild  aperient. 

CIILORODVNE. 

Frcjm  ten  to  thirty  drops  to  be  taken  as  an  anodyne  and  astringent  in  gastric  affections, 
painful  diarrhiea,  dysentery,  and  to  allay  pain  generally. 

LAPIS    DIVINUS    (BLUESTONE). 

Used  as  an  application  to  ulcers  of  the  cornea,  and  with  a  grain  of  the  salt  to  an  ounce  of 
water,  as  an  eye  lotion.      (Highly  prized.) 

MENTHOL. 

Rub  the  cone  well  over  the  painful  surface  in  neuralgia,  rheumatism.  Admirable  to 
alleviate  sttn  hcadacJte^  if  applied  to  base  of  brain  and  over  the  temples.  Relieves  the  muscular 
fatigues  of  long  marches  by  applying  to  the  joints. 


Used  as  an  emollient  and  as  a  basis  for  ointments  in  conjunction  w^ith  chrysophanic  acid, 
etc.     Specially  adapted  for  toilet  purposes. 


434  SULTAN     TO     SUI.TAN. 

CARBOLIZliD    ZINC    OINTMENT. 

Applietl  to  sore  feet,  skin  irritations,  abrasions,  and  wounds. 

CHLOROFORM    (in    SEALED    TINS). 

A  few  drops  on  a  piece  of  cotton  wool  immediately  over  tlie  part  stung  ur  bitten  by  a 
wasp,  l)ee,  or  other  venomous  insect  will  give  instant  relief  from  pain. 

ETHER    (IN    SEALED    TINS). 

f'or  emergency,  in  a  serious  case,  etc. 

ESSENCE    OF    CAMPHOR. 

Ten  to  thirty  drops  may  be  taken  on  a  piece  of  sugar  or  m  a  little  water  in  diarrhoea  to 
abt>rt  a  colfl,  or  as  a  sedative. 

SMELLING    SALTS    FOR    HEADACHE. 
ELLIMAN'S    EMBROCATION. 

For  strains  and  inflammatory  condition  of  the  joints. 

CI.VCERINE. 

L'sed  as  an  aijplication  for  the  skin.     Also,  w  ill   allay  intense  thirst  caused  by  fevers  by 
moistening  a  liit  of  cotton  wool  or  small  piece  of  cloth  and   applying  to  the  tongue  as  required. 

ESSENCE    OF    GINGER   TABLOIDS. 

Kach  tabloid  containing  ten  minims  of  essence  of  ginger.     One  to  l)e  taken  mixed  with 
\\ater  as  a  stomachic. 

IPECAC  AND  SglTLL  TABLOIDS. 

One  or  two  three  times  daily,  to  promote  diuresis  in  bladder  affections. 

TANNIC   GLYCEROL. 
-Apply  with  camel's-hair  brush  for  ulceration  or  relaxation  of  the  throat.     It  may  be  taken 
in  doses  of  half  a  teaspoonful,  mixed  with  water,  to  check  hemorrhages  of  the  lungs. 

SUN    CHOLERA    MIXTURE. 

l)ose  as  per  label  for  cholera,  dysentery,  persistent  diarrhcea. 

ANTI PYRIN E   TAllLOir^S. 

lUiring  the  delirious  period  of  lever  and  for  intense  sun  headaches,  as  required. 

KEATINC'S    INSECT    POWDER    FOR    \KRMIN. 
POWDERED    BARKS. 

A  small  quantity  dusted  in  the  shoes,  if  the  feet  are  sore,  while  marching,  or  may  lie  dis- 
solved in  hazeline  or  water  as  a  lotion  for  bleeding  wounds  or  as  a  gargle  for  sore  throat. 

VACCINE. 

Twelve  tubes  of  vaccine  in  metal  cases  with  the  hyjioderniic  syringes  and  lancets. 

TAPE    IT.ASTKK. 

Used  as  ordinary  adhesive  plaster,  but  not  necessary  to  heat  it. 

CARIKILIZED    C.AUZE. 

Antiseptic  dressing  for  wounds. 


MEDICAL     AND     SURGICAL     APPIJANCES.  435 

TRIANGt'I.AR    liANDAr.ES. 

Complete  illustrations  as  to  their  varied  use  printed  on  bandages.  They  may  be  used  in 
conjunction  with  web  l:)andages  or  with  a  piece  of  calico  sheeting. 

I.I  NT    bllKKTINn. 

A  superior  suiistitute  for  lint. 

CATIIIiTERS. 

Before  using  cover  with  carljolized  oil,  —  one  part  carbolic  acid  to  forty  parts  any  licjuid  oil. 

TOOTH    FORCi;i>S. 

It  is  a  good  plan  to  carefully  separate  the  gum  from  the  tooth  with  a  gum  lance,  then 
crowd  the  blades  of  the  forceps  as  far  down  as  possible  to  the  base  of  the  tooth,  firmly  attach, 
then  draw  the  tooth. 

SURGICAL    SCISSORS. 

To  be  used  only  for  surgical  cases. 

RAIT  AN     SPLINTS. 

For  fractures  or  dislocali'ins. 

KIKFOLLT'S    .MUSI'ARI)    lkavks. 

Invaluable,  as  they  can  be  used  w'hile  on  the  march. 

LINSEED    POULTICES. 

I'repared  on  cloth,  ret]uiring  only  to  be  moistened  through  with  hot  water. 

OIL    SILK    rKOTECTIXE. 

Covering  for  compressors  and  other  bandages. 

I'UMP   ENEMA. 
ONE    SURGICAL    POCKET   CASE. 
NOTES    ON    OPENING   AN    ABSCESS. 

It  is  advisable  to  cut  in  the  form  of  a  cross  (+),  seeing,  of  course,  that  no  blood-vessels  are 
in  the  way  of  the  operation.  After  all  the  pus  has  been  extracted,  iodoform  may  be  dusted  in, 
and  the  part  covered  with  a  piece  of  bandage  or  carbolic  gauze.  [I  found  strips  of  hide  admi- 
rable, and  never  disturb  the  dressing,  only  leaving  an  outlet  for  the  pus.]  Silk  to  be  used  for 
sewing  up  incised  wounds  by  meins  of  the  needles  in  same  packet.  The  scarifier  intended  for 
vaccination  purposes. 

In  case  of  wounds  in  the  neighborhood  of  an  important  artery,  if  spurting  blood  is  ob- 
served, the  artery  must  be  carefully  searched  out  and  clasped  by  means  of  the  forceps,  which  can 
be  locked  after  drawing  them  a  slight  distance  away  from  the  edge  of  the  wound;  the  artery 
may  then  be  ligatured  at  lioth  ends,  and  the  wound  is  then  ready  to  be  sewn  up. 

FLAX    LINT    FOR    DRESSING. 

Camel's-hair  brushes  for  eyes  and  throat  application. 

INK    PELLET.S. 

Compressed  ink  pellets  stand  the  tropical  climate.  One  pellet  mixed  with  a  tablespoonful 
of  water  makes  clean,  fadeless,  free-flowing  ink,  invaluable  if  notes  and  sketches  are  to  be 
preserved;   non-breakable,  and  of  scarcely  any  weight,  taking  up  but  small  space. 

Note.  —  In  fitting  up  my  expedition.  I  constantly  aimed  at  minimum  of  weight,  getting  a 
maximum  of  results  and  economy  in  space,  whenever  possible  substituting  all  lireakable 
and  fluid  articles.  —  AUTHOR. 


RARE  BOOK 
COLLECTION 


THE  LIBRARY  OF  THE 

UNIVERSITY  OF 

NORTH  CAROLINA 

AT 

CHAPEL  HILL 

Travel 

DT361 

.S54 


